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Old 07-19-2013, 11:37 PM   #1
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Need some big power!

So a buddy of mine just bought a g35 twin turbo pushing 650rwhp. And im super jealous lol. I was about to start a 400-450 kenne bell supercharger build but now i want to keep up with him...so what would be a recommended build? Just wanting opinions. I know ill need to forge and go forced induction defiantly. Or should i just switch to the dark side and build a port? :p
Thanks guys.
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Old 07-20-2013, 12:42 AM   #2
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Coyote swap! Lol.
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Old 07-20-2013, 12:46 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by MidnightBlueGT View Post
So a buddy of mine just bought a g35 twin turbo pushing 650rwhp. And im super jealous lol. I was about to start a 400-450 kenne bell supercharger build but now i want to keep up with him...so what would be a recommended build? Just wanting opinions. I know ill need to forge and go forced induction defiantly. Or should i just switch to the dark side and build a port? :p
Thanks guys.
F1 Procharger and do a E85 setup ! FTW
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Old 07-20-2013, 01:03 AM   #4
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it will take alot to get the 2v to that power level. coyote swap. or a 98-02 camaro ss. with full exhaust heads/cam fast intake with a 150 shot and call it a day
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Old 07-20-2013, 01:29 AM   #5
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Buy a Super Snake and let him Cry his Eyes out!
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Old 07-20-2013, 02:48 AM   #6
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Get a Prius!
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Old 07-21-2013, 12:46 AM   #7
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Buy a Super Snake and let him Cry his Eyes out!
If money grew on trees
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Old 07-21-2013, 01:01 AM   #8
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Lol nothing. Just get him to run his car hard for a few weeks and ull be way faster while he sits in the garage!
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Old 07-21-2013, 09:08 AM   #9
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Coyote swap! Lol.
Not even just with a coyote swap you will be there. Unless you buy the 12k one and still will have to do some more work on it.
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Old 07-21-2013, 11:57 AM   #10
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Save your car. And get a 5.3 Chevy motor drop in a fox then maybe cam intake and spray the **** out of it with 200 shot. You'll be good.
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Old 07-21-2013, 12:19 PM   #11
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Save your car. And get a 5.3 Chevy motor drop in a fox then maybe cam intake and spray the **** out of it with 200 shot. You'll be good.
Sounds like what a buddy of min did.
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Old 07-21-2013, 07:46 PM   #12
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What times does that thing run? Those motors can be really peaky and there is a term "dyno queen" for a reason. Does not take a lot to get a 2V to that power level at all. Forged rotating assy, stage 2 heads, blower cams and 20 or so PSI. I mean it is a "lot" but not complicated. Not sure why everyone is suggesting the Chevy swaps and all when its a lot easier and cheaper to just build the 2V. Also not sure why ppl are still under the impression that the 2Vs suck... that was sort of true like 10 years ago... the aftermarket has more than caught up with them though.

With that said, you put your car at 400whp and set the thing up to launch like a mofo and learn to drive really well anything can happen. Dyno numbers are just dyno numbers, the most powerful car does not always win and very often does not win. Within reason of course... You are giving up 200hp supposedly if you get yours to 400whp but in a straight line from a stand still... you never know.
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Old 07-21-2013, 08:19 PM   #13
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Read this 775hp 2v built by shrader performance. http://www.mustang50magazine.com/fea...rd_mustang_gt/
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Old 07-21-2013, 08:30 PM   #14
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So a buddy of mine just bought a g35 twin turbo pushing 650rwhp. And im super jealous lol. I was about to start a 400-450 kenne bell supercharger build but now i want to keep up with him...so what would be a recommended build? Just wanting opinions. I know ill need to forge and go forced induction defiantly. Or should i just switch to the dark side and build a port? :p
Thanks guys.
650hp is all good however is it actual to the wheel or is it just a claim? We gotta see numbers on paper first. That being said theres not much tq on them so we have an advantage off the line. Our main concern would be to keep him behind u. Suspension is something most imports dont consider. They just build up power but nothing to get it on the ground with. As to for your build hellion makes a twin turbo setup for 6k pushing 800hp at its peak fir the turbos it comea with. Of course i would forge internals since that is our weak spot. Build bottom end first then find the fi route u choose. G35 is a cow just maybe 200+ lbs more than us. On a downside they are irs meaning they could possibly launch well. If you were to push 500 to the wheels you would be more than well enough suited to rape that rice cooker lol. Build suspension first as well since most races can be won by suspension rather than power. If u cant get that power to the tires what good is it then?

---------- Post added at 09:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:26 PM ----------

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Read this 775hp 2v built by shrader performance. http://www.mustang50magazine.com/fea...rd_mustang_gt/
Notice the manifold said stock ..... kinda makes u think of what reason makes someone change to something not needed if stock mani holds 775hp or even more.....i'm sure scotty mentioned it before about a stock mani being great. Pi of course
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Old 07-21-2013, 09:17 PM   #15
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Thanks guys. I was thinking of doing f/i and staying low boost then forging or would that be a bad idea? Where's everybody purchase their forged rotating assemblies? And what brand you suggest, mmr?
Thanks for all the help and advice.
And i know most ports dont think of suspension but he has nice suspension work too, he use to drift his 240 almost every weekend.
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Old 07-21-2013, 10:15 PM   #16
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Suspension setup for t3h dooorrifftoooo! or drag racing? Because a handling/drift setup is not going to exactly be great for a straight line race.
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Old 07-22-2013, 12:18 AM   #17
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Suspension setup for t3h dooorrifftoooo! or drag racing? Because a handling/drift setup is not going to exactly be great for a straight line race.
+1000000 two completely different suspensions
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Old 07-24-2013, 07:35 PM   #18
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The reason I suggest doing a Chevy swap before building a 2v is that you do have to forge internals and everything and other supporting mods. Or you could get a 5.3 heads cams spray that b and sh*t n get. I feel like that'd be cheaper. Since you have to spend on internals then fi that's racking up. You could get a junk yard 5.3 for $600 or less.
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Old 07-24-2013, 07:36 PM   #19
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The reason I suggest doing a Chevy swap before building a 2v is that you do have to forge internals and everything and other supporting mods. Or you could get a 5.3 heads cams spray that b and sh*t n get. I feel like that'd be cheaper. Since you have to spend on internals then fi that's racking up. You could get a junk yard 5.3 for $600 or less.
It'd be cheaper but not as reliable
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Old 07-24-2013, 07:37 PM   #20
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It's be good for 700 horse.
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Old 07-24-2013, 07:44 PM   #21
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It's be good for 700 horse.
Yeah but without forged internals your going to be running into the same problem. I've seen it time and time again. If you want to make big numbers and not go through a motor every year forging it is the best route, Chrysler, GM, or Ford. Im not knocking the idea (beater bomb is insanely fast lol) just stating my opinion based off real life experiences.
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Old 07-24-2013, 07:50 PM   #22
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The reason I suggest doing a Chevy swap before building a 2v is that you do have to forge internals and everything and other supporting mods. Or you could get a 5.3 heads cams spray that b and sh*t n get. I feel like that'd be cheaper. Since you have to spend on internals then fi that's racking up. You could get a junk yard 5.3 for $600 or less.
The coyote has forge internals.
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Old 07-24-2013, 07:52 PM   #23
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So does the bada** termi lol
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Old 07-24-2013, 07:56 PM   #24
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The coyote has forge internals.
No it doesn't.
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Old 07-24-2013, 08:03 PM   #25
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I didnt think so lol but idk that much about them being that i cant afford one yet lol
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Old 07-24-2013, 08:14 PM   #26
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Even a coyote is $6200 crate. Then you'd have to get everything else to drop in the crate when you could get a junk yard motor. But that would be better for a beater car like beater bomb just a 5.3 with lots of spray.
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Old 07-24-2013, 08:21 PM   #27
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The coyote has forge internals.
The 5.0 in the GTs don't, I think the Bosses do though.

---------- Post added at 08:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:17 PM ----------

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So does the bada** termi lol
+1000

---------- Post added at 08:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:18 PM ----------

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Even a coyote is $6200 crate. Then you'd have to get everything else to drop in the crate when you could get a junk yard motor. But that would be better for a beater car like beater bomb just a 5.3 with lots of spray.
Beater bomb is a really quick car, that has a problem every time he turns around. BUT that 5.3 has literally been to hell and back. I would just forged the block OP has. Or find a block you can throw on a stand and build to handle what you want while you still drive the stang around .
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Old 07-24-2013, 09:27 PM   #28
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IMO the Coyote is still way too much money for a crate motor to make it worth the swap. Now in a few years when we start seeing more and more pullouts from 2011/2012 cars it might be different...
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Old 07-24-2013, 10:39 PM   #29
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IMO the Coyote is still way too much money for a crate motor to make it worth the swap. Now in a few years when we start seeing more and more pullouts from 2011/2012 cars it might be different...
Agreed! Itll run you close to 20 grand for that swap if you include everything you will need
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:43 AM   #30
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No it doesn't.
Yup scottydsntknow I'm doing a coyote swap in my 98GT and the crank and pistons are forged from factory.
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:45 AM   #31
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Doh
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:52 AM   #32
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Here is an article with the specs of all the coyote engines.
http://www.hotrod.com/feature_storie...e/viewall.html

And yes, is not worthy to do the swap if your engine is still running. But if is junk like mine happen to be then it is. You will spend 20k but you will have a 400rwhp with long headers, exhaust a good tune from SCT. Not to mention a 0 miles engine with 2 years / 24k miles warranty. You can spend the 20 grand in a use mustang but without really knowing if is been really taking care of and with the headaches that a use car come with. Again, if you need a new engine go for it, if not then fix yours and keep burning some tires and have fun.
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:52 AM   #33
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Yup scottydsntknow I'm doing a coyote swap in my 98GT and the crank and pistons are forged from factory.
And your rods are... ? Because they aren't.
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:56 AM   #34
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And your rods are... ? Because they aren't.
Yes they are. All you need to do is change cams and cobra jet intake and you are in the 500rwhp line. Of couse having in mind that you already add the bbk LT, o/r pipe and a good cat back with a SCT tune.
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:10 AM   #35
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Unless you special ordered yours with forged rods, no they aren't. The Boss is fully forged, a normal 5.0 Coytoe has a forged crank and pistons but still the cast powdered rods. They are much stronger than yeas before them but they are NOT forged. This is common knowledge btw, if you don't believe me do a Google search.
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