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Old 08-10-2013, 01:37 PM   #1
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Am i getting a good deal on brakes?

Hi all.

I just took my car to the mechanic to check my brakes because I was hearing strange noises. Kind of like metal scraping metal.

So he tells me I need new rotors and pads on front. Back is ok. He is charging me $240.00 for parts and labor. Is this a good deal or is he ripping me off? I have an 04 mustang gt.

I was just gonna get them turned but he says they are past that point. And I would do it myself but I can't. I live in an apt and park on street, so I have nowhere. Thanks.
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Old 08-10-2013, 01:39 PM   #2
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Hi all.

I just took my car to the mechanic to check my brakes because I was hearing strange noises. Kind of like metal scraping metal.

So he tells me I need new rotors and pads on front. Back is ok. He is charging me $240.00 for parts and labor. Is this a good deal or is he ripping me off? I have an 04 mustang gt.

I was just gonna get them turned but he says they are past that point. And I would do it myself but I can't. I live in an apt and park on street, so I have nowhere. Thanks.
I usually would charge 30 bucks labor And brakes are only 20-35 bucks ..
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Old 08-10-2013, 01:48 PM   #3
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Damn so do you think I should keep asking around?
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Old 08-10-2013, 01:55 PM   #4
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Damn so do you think I should keep asking around?
I work at napa i can give you prices. A good set of ceramic pads are like $30. Good rotors are $60 a piece. Cheaper rotors are like $30 a piece. Cheaper ones are ok but I run the better ones on my GT. They are less likely to warp. With good rotors and ceramic pads it comes out to like $160. That means if he's getting good parts hes charging like $80 in labor. That's kinda steep but it's not terrible.
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Old 08-10-2013, 02:02 PM   #5
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For decent pads and rotors it will cost about $120. for the parts. Mechanics don't work for cheap. There's overhead to consider. Hunt around, maybe you can find someone cheaper. Beware of the guys who will put $60. worth of Chinese parts on your car though...
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Old 08-10-2013, 02:30 PM   #6
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Buy the rotors/pads off of Rockauto and have him install them. Labor for the fronts should be 1-2 hours unless your caliper bracket bolts are REALLY stuck and even then the car should be on a lift and if he doesn't suck he'll have an acetylene torch to get them right out.

I HIGHLY recommend Raybestos rotors from Rockauto actually, that's all I use on my stangs and the quality is top notch/no runout issues at all and they don't warp after 6 months like the Duracrap/Napa stuff you'll get locally.

Here are the ones I would get for a GT unless you've upgraded to Cobra fronts which I'm assuming you have not.

For pads I REALLY like the Centric quiet Ceramics. No brake dust on my bling blingin rims with Ceramics and they really are very quiet.

These are the pads. I use the Cobra ones but these GT ones are the same as far as quality and materials used.

Probably going to run you under $100 shipped to your door for the parts and then whatever your mechanic charges you for the install. Or just find a buddy with tools to come over and do it really fast in the parking lot for free. If your caliper bracket bolts are not stuck you can do a brake in 15 minutes on each side. The fronts are OMG easy vs the rears and the rears are not even that bad.
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Old 08-10-2013, 02:58 PM   #7
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Buy the rotors/pads off of Rockauto and have him install them. Labor for the fronts should be 1-2 hours unless your caliper bracket bolts are REALLY stuck and even then the car should be on a lift and if he doesn't suck he'll have an acetylene torch to get them right out.

I HIGHLY recommend Raybestos rotors from Rockauto actually, that's all I use on my stangs and the quality is top notch/no runout issues at all and they don't warp after 6 months like the Duracrap/Napa stuff you'll get locally.

Here are the ones I would get for a GT unless you've upgraded to Cobra fronts which I'm assuming you have not.

For pads I REALLY like the Centric quiet Ceramics. No brake dust on my bling blingin rims with Ceramics and they really are very quiet.

These are the pads. I use the Cobra ones but these GT ones are the same as far as quality and materials used.

Probably going to run you under $100 shipped to your door for the parts and then whatever your mechanic charges you for the install. Or just find a buddy with tools to come over and do it really fast in the parking lot for free. If your caliper bracket bolts are not stuck you can do a brake in 15 minutes on each side. The fronts are OMG easy vs the rears and the rears are not even that bad.
scottydoesntknow is right. Don't buy the cheap napa rotors. They have a weak pouris interior instead of the good vented rotor style. Rockauto is a good route if you can wait a day or two to have them shipped.
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Old 08-10-2013, 03:03 PM   #8
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And, conveniently, there is a Rockauto discount code in the General Mustang forum.
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Old 08-10-2013, 03:07 PM   #9
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Buy the rotors/pads off of Rockauto and have him install them. Labor for the fronts should be 1-2 hours unless your caliper bracket bolts are REALLY stuck and even then the car should be on a lift and if he doesn't suck he'll have an acetylene torch to get them right out.

I HIGHLY recommend Raybestos rotors from Rockauto actually, that's all I use on my stangs and the quality is top notch/no runout issues at all and they don't warp after 6 months like the Duracrap/Napa stuff you'll get locally.

Here are the ones I would get for a GT unless you've upgraded to Cobra fronts which I'm assuming you have not.

For pads I REALLY like the Centric quiet Ceramics. No brake dust on my bling blingin rims with Ceramics and they really are very quiet.

These are the pads. I use the Cobra ones but these GT ones are the same as far as quality and materials used.

Probably going to run you under $100 shipped to your door for the parts and then whatever your mechanic charges you for the install. Or just find a buddy with tools to come over and do it really fast in the parking lot for free. If your caliper bracket bolts are not stuck you can do a brake in 15 minutes on each side. The fronts are OMG easy vs the rears and the rears are not even that bad.
scottydoesntknow is right. Don't buy the cheap napa rotors. They have a weak pouris interior instead of the good vented rotor style. Rockauto is a good route if you can wait a day or two to have them shipped.
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Old 08-10-2013, 03:38 PM   #10
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I always do genuine parts. I go to the ford dealership to get brake pads. Mine are a little more. The are the same setup as the cobras. The slotted and drilled rotors aren't cheap either.
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Old 08-10-2013, 07:16 PM   #11
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I always do genuine parts. I go to the ford dealership to get brake pads. Mine are a little more. The are the same setup as the cobras. The slotted and drilled rotors aren't cheap either.
Ugh no, OEM pads leave a horrible dust on the rotors, no thank you. And seriously the ones I buy are at least as nice as OEM and 1/3 the price and I get them in 3 days shipped to my door. I just thrashed my car really good today through corners, to high speed and quickly down to 40 etc... etc... and my wheels are still nice and dust free. Ceramics ftw.
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Old 08-10-2013, 07:24 PM   #12
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Things for of information guys. I decided to end up going to the mechanic anyways because it was kind of an emergency (really LOL).

Now I know them buying my own stuff and then having them installed is definitely the way to go. I just wish that I could've had more time to do that.

And by the way no I have not done that Cobra brake conversion/swap.

As far as the mechanic Goes, I think I definitely did get taken for a ride. But you live, learn. Now I know what to do next time.

Here's the damage:
Eh... well you paid about 2 hours of labor, probably took the guy 30 minutes. It is what it is, another reason I do all my own maintenance. I just ran new brake lines in my Expy for $100 and the shop quote was over $1200...
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Old 08-10-2013, 07:51 PM   #13
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Ugh no, OEM pads leave a horrible dust on the rotors, no thank you. And seriously the ones I buy are at least as nice as OEM and 1/3 the price and I get them in 3 days shipped to my door. I just thrashed my car really good today through corners, to high speed and quickly down to 40 etc... etc... and my wheels are still nice and dust free. Ceramics ftw.

+2
Scottydsntknow definitely knows what he is talking about with brakes!!

Also, the mechanic definitely ripped you off, but another thing to consider is what company is the mechanic working in?? I know Pep Boys does OEM (Crappy parts) on my 2004 for $265 Front Only!! And of course I have the option to upgrade. However, I purchased mine Raybestos Rotors with centric quiet ceramic pads. These are the best combination i've ever seen!!
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Old 08-10-2013, 10:41 PM   #14
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Ugh no, OEM pads leave a horrible dust on the rotors, no thank you. And seriously the ones I buy are at least as nice as OEM and 1/3 the price and I get them in 3 days shipped to my door. I just thrashed my car really good today through corners, to high speed and quickly down to 40 etc... etc... and my wheels are still nice and dust free. Ceramics ftw.
I was out of about $90 for the brake job. I get fantastic deals on my work. The mechanic there is a mustang freak and the only type mustang that he REALLY enjoys building are cobras. And since the 360r have some similar features, he just do the work. He's the guy that told me about the terminator roush. He's building another fox body super car now.
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Old 08-10-2013, 10:55 PM   #15
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Yeah but the OEM pads suck honestly. Oh well if you like them lol. I pay that much for the fronts too and it takes all of a half hour to do them in the driveway.
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Old 08-10-2013, 11:00 PM   #16
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I'm good with OEM. They perform great and it doesn't create much dust. No one else sells cobra pads here in one piece.
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Old 08-10-2013, 11:03 PM   #17
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Scottydoesntknow actually knows something?


This is a good thread! I think the mechanic is reasonable Ford dealer wanted $550 to replace the fronts I laughed so hard I started crying.
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Old 08-10-2013, 11:07 PM   #18
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Amazing isn't it?
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Old 08-10-2013, 11:14 PM   #19
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Amazing isn't it?
Haha yeah
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Old 08-11-2013, 01:10 AM   #20
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Scottydoesntknow actually knows something?

This is a good thread! I think the mechanic is reasonable Ford dealer wanted $550 to replace the fronts I laughed so hard I started crying.
Wow
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Old 08-11-2013, 07:26 AM   #21
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The brakes on our cars are so simple I'd approach it as a good opportunity to learn how to change your own brakes.. use the labor $ saved to buy a Haynes manual and take yourself out to lunch!
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Old 08-11-2013, 07:39 AM   #22
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The brakes on our cars are so simple I'd approach it as a good opportunity to learn how to change your own brakes.. use the labor $ saved to buy a Haynes manual and take yourself out to lunch!
For $550 we can do a few lunches and dinners too!
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Old 08-11-2013, 08:18 AM   #23
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For $550 we can do a few lunches and dinners too!
$550 in labor is asinine though! I was going by OP's numbers, figured 80-100 was the labor charge by the shop, after parts markup and "shop fees" etc.
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Old 08-11-2013, 08:52 PM   #24
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$550 will get you an hour at the Bunny Ranch or so HBO says...
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Old 08-11-2013, 09:40 PM   #25
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The Bunny Ranch sucks donkey ***...
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Old 08-11-2013, 09:42 PM   #26
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The Bunny Ranch sucks donkey ***...
Ha!
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Old 08-11-2013, 09:56 PM   #27
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For $550 we can do a few lunches and dinners too!

Actually it may have been less like 400-450 it wasn't any lower than 350 though. Regardless that's still a few dinners and lunches. Brakes are super easy.

Honestly I could disassemble a newer mustang (95 or newer) and put it back together if I had to. These cars are great and super easy to work on. Just wish I had bought one sooner.
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Old 08-11-2013, 10:16 PM   #28
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Actually it may have been less like 400-450 it wasn't any lower than 350 though. Regardless that's still a few dinners and lunches. Brakes are super easy.

Honestly I could disassemble a newer mustang (95 or newer) and put it back together if I had to. These cars are great and super easy to work on. Just wish I had bought one sooner.
Okay, well we may have to get a free water with one if those lunches. Ha.
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Old 08-11-2013, 10:30 PM   #29
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Hahaha
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Old 08-11-2013, 10:48 PM   #30
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myself i run only Hawk pads...decent pricing and amazing breaks for the stock calipers...rotors again are never the cheapest due to i drive alot of road courses and mountain roads. btw i will say if you can afford it go ahead and upgrade your brake lines to braided steel. you'll love how it instantly changes how your braking feels.
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Old 08-12-2013, 03:26 AM   #31
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Also there is an issue with the earlier SN95s having the rubber lines actually melt if you do agressive enough braking through something like a mountain road/road course.
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Old 08-15-2013, 08:32 PM   #32
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Also there is an issue with the earlier SN95s having the rubber lines actually melt if you do agressive enough braking through something like a mountain road/road course.
I think that's an issue on a lot of Fords from what I've read the F-150 has an issue with the brake lines
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Old 08-17-2013, 12:52 AM   #33
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I would say its not bad price but then again I work at a Ford dealership but I wouldn't want someone else to do my brakes. I honestly don't like the whole thought of my life in anyones hands but my own and braking is crucial, so many things could go wrong. Honestly I would say save the labor cost and get dirty and learn something if you don't know how by a good friend. Front brakes are the brakes that do the most but disc brakes are only an hour to do at max both sides if you know how and have proper tools. Get some ceramic hawk brakes their performance are great and you don't have as much brake dust on your rims in between car washes. Rotors honestly get new ones your brand choice all together $150-200 and a couple hours you'll have fun doing it also save money. With all the money you save fill her up and go for a spin.
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Old 08-17-2013, 01:11 AM   #34
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Also there is an issue with the earlier SN95s having the rubber lines actually melt if you do agressive enough braking through something like a mountain road/road course.
fun lol...just another thing i don't need to worry about with my current setup at least
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Old 08-17-2013, 03:09 PM   #35
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If mine doesn't sell that is one of the next things I'm going to do to it. However the PO did new OEM lines when he did the Buillitt brakes and the brake pedal feel is REALLY firm so it might wait a bit. Or I'll sell it and then do that upgrade to whatever I get to replace it down the line.

There is also the cheapass zip tie trick that class racers do or ppl who don't want to pay for the stainless lines.
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