Is one CAI better than the other? - Mustang Evolution

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Old 08-11-2013, 03:03 PM   #1
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Is one CAI better than the other?

I've been looking at CAIs for a while and I don't see the significance between them. A tune seems to be the magic in the performance. I'm I missing something or am I on point?
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Old 08-11-2013, 03:13 PM   #2
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All do the same job, your just paying for the name and the looks except for the new jlt's make a significant difference in dispersing heat over the others. Work best with a tune (but thats pretty much for all mods)
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Old 08-11-2013, 03:22 PM   #3
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"Is one CAI better than the other?"

Yes, the one that came with the car is the best. It is free and performs as well as any...
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Old 08-11-2013, 03:32 PM   #4
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Any are better than nothing, some people wont buy anything less than a BBK. Im perfectly happy with my cheapo SR one, not too concerned about the extra horsepower or 2 id get with a 300 dollar CAI
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Old 08-11-2013, 06:35 PM   #5
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Any are better than nothing, some people wont buy anything less than a BBK. Im perfectly happy with my cheapo SR one, not too concerned about the extra horsepower or 2 id get with a 300 dollar CAI
This is not so--the stock intake IS a CAI and a pretty good one--in fact many aftermarket "CAIs" will actually hurt performance because they are "just pieces of pipe" rather than something with internal dimensions intended to maximize engine power. What motivation would Ford have to design an intake that hampered performance?

I made 262/305 rwHP/lb-ft with the stock intake, modest bolt-ons and a tune, and a Purolator paper filter...
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Old 08-11-2013, 07:02 PM   #6
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Stock intake beats any COld air intake
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Old 08-11-2013, 08:28 PM   #7
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Quote:
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Stock intake beats any COld air intake
+1 I just love mine for looks -_-
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Old 08-11-2013, 08:39 PM   #8
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+1 I just love mine for looks -_-
And we all know "looks" beat performance every time...

[edit]

I'm sorry, couldn't help it...

[/edit]
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Old 08-11-2013, 09:34 PM   #9
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I'm okay with the way it looks now. I'm sure roush has a pretty good cai on there now. I was just wondering if there is a phenomenal cai that I have overlooked somewhere. And this factory roush cai bolts up to a 75mm BBK roush tb.

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Old 08-11-2013, 11:07 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by cliffyk View Post

And we all know "looks" beat performance every time...

[edit]

I'm sorry, couldn't help it...

[/edit]
+1
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Old 12-06-2014, 03:16 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffyk View Post
This is not so--the stock intake IS a CAI and a pretty good one--in fact many aftermarket "CAIs" will actually hurt performance because they are "just pieces of pipe" rather than something with internal dimensions intended to maximize engine power. What motivation would Ford have to design an intake that hampered performance?



I made 262/305 rwHP/lb-ft with the stock intake, modest bolt-ons and a tune, and a Purolator paper filter...

This is what I have been looking for.
Modest bolt ons you include longtubes, mid-pipe, cat back, tb/p, and a tune?


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Old 12-06-2014, 03:20 AM   #12
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The "best" cold air intake is one that feeds from outside the engine bay so it collects actual cool air and not warm air from the engine bay.


Bullitts are better than Bullets
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Old 12-06-2014, 03:25 AM   #13
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The "best" cold air intake is one that feeds from outside the engine bay so it collects actual cool air and not warm air from the engine bay.


Bullitts are better than Bullets

I swear I get so much different opinions I'm beginning to think any stock or after market intake performs the same with a k&n filter and silencer removed.


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Old 12-06-2014, 03:28 AM   #14
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I'm told that fender intakes are best then others say they restrict air flow because of the 90 degree elbow, so engine bay intakes are best but others say those are bad because they soak up engine bay heat, nonmetal intakes are the best because they don't soak up heat, but really air is just passing through so it's not like air is getting to hot from the metal. And this debating is Over what like 3 maybe 4 rwhp?


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Old 12-06-2014, 01:59 PM   #15
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I will say it again--The one that came with the car is the best. It is free and performs as well as any, better than some...
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Old 12-06-2014, 02:29 PM   #16
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well just dont get a metal intake i learnt the hard way it helps when its cold like 2 min but i live in 115 degree weather in tx and it gets hot real fast so yeah the air is cold but the intake metal is hot as ***** and thus hinders my performance as the car warms that is on my 2004 but i also agree the stock intake should be good enough for the few 5 hp gain im not paying 300 just by some wider back tires when it comes down to replacing your cars shoes and lay more hp down on those wheels.
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Old 12-06-2014, 04:13 PM   #17
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For many years I have been asking to see a dyno chart, showing ANY power increase on a 2V new-edge GT, from only adding an aftermarket intake--I have yet to see one, mostly because the OEM intake (which is a CAI) is as good as it needs to be...

They do exert a profound placebo effect due to the increased noise, as do mufflers and catback systems, This often convinces the proud owner there has been some power gain.

However in a couple/three weeks that wears off and you get the "What happened to my power?" posts, as the ears grown accustomed to the new sound and the power that was never there in the first place is perceived to have faded away...
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Old 12-06-2014, 05:10 PM   #18
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Exactly^^^^

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Old 12-06-2014, 05:13 PM   #19
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Yes. Watch this video. If you can't watch it I'll leave two photos, see if you can spot the difference.

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10154907173900112
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Old 12-06-2014, 06:07 PM   #20
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I see the rubber elbow collapsed, what make/model engine is that?


That K&N (or K&N clone) filter isn't even close to big enough for it...
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Old 12-06-2014, 07:41 PM   #21
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My two cent on this issue. A CAI is well worth the money with a good tune! Just a CAI alone won't make much diffreance only on top end but who drives WOT all the time. The mass air sensor will ping out before getting full performance. I programe my on car and it hasn't been a eazy task. It's all in tricking the ECM fuel air ratio and setting a good CO's reading. I use the ford racing intake and 125 shot nos w/proper timinig on forge rod s w/ stock crank. My stock air box restricted air flow and would run rich @ 14 on co meter 11's are ideal. I could not get it to go that low on a stock intake. My throttle response is insane and my auto will churp 2nd and 3rd on wot and yes for some of you " you can't row gears as fast as a auto!
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Old 12-06-2014, 09:27 PM   #22
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My two cent on this issue. A CAI is well worth the money with a good tune! Just a CAI alone won't make much diffreance only on top end but who drives WOT all the time. The mass air sensor will ping out before getting full performance. I programe my on car and it hasn't been a eazy task. It's all in tricking the ECM fuel air ratio and setting a good CO's reading. I use the ford racing intake and 125 shot nos w/proper timinig on forge rod s w/ stock crank. My stock air box restricted air flow and would run rich @ 14 on co meter 11's are ideal. I could not get it to go that low on a stock intake. My throttle response is insane and my auto will churp 2nd and 3rd on wot and yes for some of you " you can't row gears as fast as a auto!
You fail for calling Nitrous "nos".
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Old 12-06-2014, 10:10 PM   #23
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My two cent on this issue. A CAI is well worth the money with a good tune! Just a CAI alone won't make much diffreance only on top end but who drives WOT all the time. The mass air sensor will ping out before getting full performance. I programe my on car and it hasn't been a eazy task. It's all in tricking the ECM fuel air ratio and setting a good CO's reading. I use the ford racing intake and 125 shot nos w/proper timinig on forge rod s w/ stock crank. My stock air box restricted air flow and would run rich @ 14 on co meter 11's are ideal. I could not get it to go that low on a stock intake. My throttle response is insane and my auto will churp 2nd and 3rd on wot and yes for some of you " you can't row gears as fast as a auto!
Oh where to begin?

The stock intake and 80 mm MAF on the 2V are good to a solid 3000 lb/h airflow before "pegging" the MAF. Running n/a that is enough to support 500 fwHP, 425 at the wheels--I.e. more than the stock injectors or fuel pump can handle.

Also, one does not have to "trick" the PCM into doing anything, you just reprogram it to do things as you want.

I do not know what you mean by setting "a good CO's reading" however as you use the phrase in conjunction with air fuel ratio I will assume your mean a good AFR (or O2) reading. "CO" is carbon monoxide, its level in the exhaust is largely unrelated to performance tuning.

The FRPP intake is the same as that supplied as OEM on all '02-1/2 GTs.

"My stock air box restricted air flow and would run rich @ 14 on co meter 11's are ideal."

An AFR of 14:1 is leaner than 11:1--the ratio is "air to fuel", 14 parts of air to 1 part fuel is leaner (less fuel) than 11 parts of air to 1 part fuel.

What upper plenum are you running, that is the weak spot in the GT intake tract--if fact any after market upper plenum--with the stock 65 mm TB--will outflow any larger TB with the stock plenum.

It is in fact the stock upper plenum (and the 19 lb/h orange injectors used before 2003) that limit higher RPM (5500+) power on the 2V engine. Swap out the plenum and the increase in pulling power right up to the rev-limiter will be quite obvious...
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Old 12-07-2014, 10:40 AM   #24
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I have the SR Cold Air Intake. Just for looks.

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Old 12-07-2014, 02:29 PM   #25
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I have the SR Cold Air Intake. Just for looks.

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Well hopefully you live in an area that doesn't get much moisture because it's going to look pretty rusty if you do... My old BBK intake on my 95 Cobra was like that too. Looked like *** after a year.
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Old 12-07-2014, 06:08 PM   #26
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Oh where to begin?

The stock intake and 80 mm MAF on the 2V are good to a solid 3000 lb/h airflow before "pegging" the MAF. Running n/a that is enough to support 500 fwHP, 425 at the wheels--I.e. more than the stock injectors or fuel pump can handle.

Also, one does not have to "trick" the PCM into doing anything, you just reprogram it to do things as you want.

I do not know what you mean by setting "a good CO's reading" however as you use the phrase in conjunction with air fuel ratio I will assume your mean a good AFR (or O2) reading. "CO" is carbon monoxide, its level in the exhaust is largely unrelated to performance tuning.

The FRPP intake is the same as that supplied as OEM on all '02-1/2 GTs.

"My stock air box restricted air flow and would run rich @ 14 on co meter 11's are ideal."

An AFR of 14:1 is leaner than 11:1--the ratio is "air to fuel", 14 parts of air to 1 part fuel is leaner (less fuel) than 11 parts of air to 1 part fuel.

What upper plenum are you running, that is the weak spot in the GT intake tract--if fact any after market upper plenum--with the stock 65 mm TB--will outflow any larger TB with the stock plenum.

It is in fact the stock upper plenum (and the 19 lb/h orange injectors used before 2003) that limit higher RPM (5500+) power on the 2V engine. Swap out the plenum and the increase in pulling power right up to the rev-limiter will be quite obvious...

This guy! I'm not sure what I would do without your knowledge whoever you are.

Also, I heard stock intakes are victorious for nitrous puddling I'm spraying a 100 wet shot on a nitrous outlet plate only activated at 3250rpm's at wot. Should I be safe?


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Old 12-07-2014, 10:19 PM   #27
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A wet shot can puddle in any intake, the problem with the stock unit is that it is plastic and should that puddled N2O go "boom" it is very likely the manifold will not survive.

My unsolicited opinion is "go f/i and ditch the laughing gas"...
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Old 12-07-2014, 10:29 PM   #28
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Yes. Watch this video. If you can't watch it I'll leave two photos, see if you can spot the difference.



https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10154907173900112

Thank you for posting that. Made my night.


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Old 12-07-2014, 10:55 PM   #29
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All after market CAIs are equally ineffective for a stock engine. The only time its necessary to change up your intake is when youre gonna be connecting a pipe that's coming from an intercooler.
After market CAIs look cool and they make the intake sound better on the engine. The stock ones are designed to muffle the sound a little bit but Im pretty sure its not intrusive enough to show up on the dyno.
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Old 12-07-2014, 10:58 PM   #30
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A wet shot can puddle in any intake, the problem with the stock unit is that it is plastic and should that puddled N2O go "boom" it is very likely the manifold will not survive.

My unsolicited opinion is "go f/i and ditch the laughing gas"...
I bet they could design an intake that was better at shedding the puddles into the engine. I wonder if they already do. Companies have put more thought into less important things, you know?
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Old 12-08-2014, 06:58 AM   #31
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When i bought my car, it had a bbk75mm tb, a c&l plenum and intake, and a k&n filter. (ram intake) and the MAF was housed in a metal 80mm tube. I did an idle relearn, and saw a bit of improvement. then I pulled it all out, leaving the plenum c&l, did a relearn again, and havent noticed any horespower loss. in fact, i actually noticed better throttle response, but i think thats because the BBK throttle body was'nt moving the plate as good as the stock. so ill have to give it a thorough cleaning and check again. But i was suspicious mostly about the the 80 mm maf housing. for an NA car, and a housing that says no tune required sounded odd to me.
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Old 12-08-2014, 08:37 AM   #32
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When i bought my car, it had a bbk75mm tb, a c&l plenum and intake, and a k&n filter. (ram intake) and the MAF was housed in a metal 80mm tube. I did an idle relearn, and saw a bit of improvement. then I pulled it all out, leaving the plenum c&l, did a relearn again, and havent noticed any horespower loss. in fact, i actually noticed better throttle response, but i think thats because the BBK throttle body was'nt moving the plate as good as the stock. so ill have to give it a thorough cleaning and check again. But i was suspicious mostly about the the 80 mm maf housing. for an NA car, and a housing that says no tune required sounded odd to me.

The stock MAF housing is 80 mm, so if the metal housing you have uses the stock MAF sensor no re-tuning would be needed--assuming the bore of the metal housing does not have some odd design that significantly alters the overall airflow.

It could also be that it is one of those damned "calibrated" MAFs (read more about those silly things here) that can only work with the stock tune unless you can get or map the transfer function.
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Old 12-08-2014, 09:08 AM   #33
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The stock MAF housing is 80 mm, so if the metal housing you have uses the stock MAF sensor no re-tuning would be needed--assuming the bore of the metal housing does not have some odd design that significantly alters the overall airflow.

It could also be that it is one of those damned "calibrated" MAFs (read more about those silly things here) that can only work with the stock tune unless you can get or map the transfer function.
I had the paperwork for it, i think its in my trunk with my registration and other papers. If the stock is the same size, then maybe it was just an add on for the intake pipe to fit one of those huge k&n filters. But i do remember a warning on the paperwork saying not to use it with a cold air intake because of the curve in the tubing before the maf.

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Old 12-08-2014, 09:16 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffyk View Post
The stock MAF housing is 80 mm, so if the metal housing you have uses the stock MAF sensor no re-tuning would be needed--assuming the bore of the metal housing does not have some odd design that significantly alters the overall airflow.

It could also be that it is one of those damned "calibrated" MAFs (read more about those silly things here) that can only work with the stock tune unless you can get or map the transfer function.
Lol I used one of those hacked mafs for awhile on my 95 cobra with an a9l swap and bolt ons. Ran like a raped ape but caused a ****ton of issues when I took it to be dyno tuned after the hci...

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