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Old 08-15-2013, 02:44 AM   #1
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Lowering question follow up (shocks / struts)

I really want to lower my 96 SVT Cobra because of the 4x4 look and I want better handling.

Coil overs are out of the question, I'm not putting that much into it.

As far as springs probably going with Eibach Pro Kit. I've read that Eibach and Ford Racing are the same springs. FRP are generally cheaper. So which FRP are the same as Eibach Pro?

Any feedback good or bad on Vogtland Springs?

My mechanic who I trust and is an SCCA racer told me today you pay a premium just for the Eibach name.

Now Struts and Shocks. Leaning towards Bilsteins. Looking for experienced opinions on others ie: Koni, Tokico, KYB, ? My car has 46K on it. Is it necessary to change the shocks and struts with the springs at that many miles?

I'm not against it, I want to do it right.

My Goal is to drop no more than 1.5". To keep the slight rake I have. To have better handling without it becoming a very harsh ride.

My wife who drives the car a lot is against me lowering it. She's afraid I will "ruin" the car. Didn't get much help from the local Mustang Club meetup tonight. The consensus was 50/50 on do it, don't lower it. But the don'ts were very vocal and convinced her more that its a bad idea. They said its unnecessary and will cause it to bottom out. But they were mostly rocking 19" wheels without the 4x4 look.

I have 17" real factory Cobra R wheels with I think 245/45/17 tires. Replacing the wheels and tires is not an option. The gap is just ridiculous and I want tighter handling.

Help me out here guys and gals. Thanks, Dave
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Old 08-15-2013, 03:06 AM   #2
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Have you looked into racaland coilovers? They are 500 bucks and very reliable
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Old 08-15-2013, 11:58 AM   #3
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She won't like this idea but have you looked into cutting the stock springs? Lots of people do it. Ride might be a little harder. But for sure lower it after she sees it low she will like it.
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Old 08-15-2013, 12:28 PM   #4
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I'm a fan of lowering the car. It handles better, rides better and looks better. 1-2 inches won't cause you to scrape the ground.
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Old 08-15-2013, 01:20 PM   #5
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I wonder why people would say not to lower it? 1.5" isn't going to cause you problems. Now if you have longtubes and an O/R midpipe, there would be some scrapping, but it doesn't ruin the car. Now I did cut my stock springs, but if you want to do it right, I'd recommend the FRPP springs. I have Koni shocks with no problems, and I hear good stuff about KYB.

---------- Post added at 02:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:17 PM ----------

To add on to what I was saying, maybe start with getting springs. Put em in, and see how they ride with your current shocks/struts. Now some say you don't want to do that because the shocks and struts are riding at a certain length, and if you lower it, you could cause them to leak prematurely. But I did just that and mine are in just as good shape as they were 5 years ago when I cut the springs. Maybe get some LCA's when you put the springs in. Those would help greatly with handling
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Old 08-15-2013, 05:16 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spiney View Post
I really want to lower my 96 SVT Cobra because of the 4x4 look and I want better handling.

Coil overs are out of the question, I'm not putting that much into it.

As far as springs probably going with Eibach Pro Kit. I've read that Eibach and Ford Racing are the same springs. FRP are generally cheaper. So which FRP are the same as Eibach Pro?

Any feedback good or bad on Vogtland Springs?

My mechanic who I trust and is an SCCA racer told me today you pay a premium just for the Eibach name.

Now Struts and Shocks. Leaning towards Bilsteins. Looking for experienced opinions on others ie: Koni, Tokico, KYB, ? My car has 46K on it. Is it necessary to change the shocks and struts with the springs at that many miles?

I'm not against it, I want to do it right.

My Goal is to drop no more than 1.5". To keep the slight rake I have. To have better handling without it becoming a very harsh ride.

My wife who drives the car a lot is against me lowering it. She's afraid I will "ruin" the car. Didn't get much help from the local Mustang Club meetup tonight. The consensus was 50/50 on do it, don't lower it. But the don'ts were very vocal and convinced her more that its a bad idea. They said its unnecessary and will cause it to bottom out. But they were mostly rocking 19" wheels without the 4x4 look.

I have 17" real factory Cobra R wheels with I think 245/45/17 tires. Replacing the wheels and tires is not an option. The gap is just ridiculous and I want tighter handling.

Help me out here guys and gals. Thanks, Dave
Sorry that i didn't get to talk to you about this at the meet. I can not give you an opinion on Eibach vs FRPP springs, but what I can tell you is that if you only want a 1.5" drop, you shouldn't have any problems with scraping. To be honest, these cars need at least a 1" drop.
I have had generic lowering springs on my vert for 6 years and have had a problem with them. They are a 2" lowering spring and may have lowered my car a bit more since it is a vert. The ride is more stiff but I have definitely been in worse.
My car is LOW and the only problems that I have with scraping is when I drive on a road that has a crown in the middle of my lane. My engine cradle will scrape on raised crown with my tires being in "ruts". I have never scraped my bumper.
The proponents of lowering your car may not understand it probably because they never did it and weren't "brought up" that way.
I will always advocate for lowering a mustang. Even if it just 1". These cars, especially SN95 and New Edges need it.
Hopefully others who have SN95 that are lowered can chime in with their experiences.
As far as shocks go, I am still on stock shocks with 113,000 miles on them. Having said that, I am looking at replacing the just to do it.
By the way, I am also in need of caster/camber plates and a bumpsteer kit. You may not need them if only lowering 1.5" or less.
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Old 08-15-2013, 05:18 PM   #7
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Old 08-15-2013, 06:03 PM   #8
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I have H&R super sports on my 96 GT, just had them installed this summer. They dropped the car 1 3/4" all the way around give or take an 1/8". I have them installed with Tokico HP front struts, Koni rear shocks, new poly isolators, and Maximum Motorsports CC plates. The ride is better than stock and I haven't bottomed out once. The handling and ride is much improved. It's stiffer but feels better and more solid if that makes any sense. The new ride height is perfect and looks like it should now. I too have 17" wheels with 255/45 in front and 315s in the back, with 17" wheels you need a little more than 1.5" IMO to make it look great. I was in the same boat as I didn't want to compromise ride quality and deal with scraping etc, but I took the plunge and I'm very pleasantly surprised that it doesn't bottom out and doesn't ride terrible. Have to do it right and replace the stock dampners IMO. I have 60k on mine and I think the stock dampners would bottom out, but with an 1.5" you may be ok for a while, then change if you need to. I would suggest the cc plates for getting it aligned right and also the new isolators while your doing it. Also had the ball joints replaced with a nice Moog set as everything was torn apart anyway. You won't regret lowering it at all, and your wife will love the look. SN96s need to be lowered to look right, and with you owning a cobra it will look great once you get it done. Just my 2 cents. I too searched and searched for the right sprig and dampners but I'm very happy with my choices so far.

---------- Post added at 07:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:01 PM ----------

Correcting SN95s stupid phone.
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Old 08-15-2013, 08:09 PM   #9
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Eibach sportsline/ pro-kit did wonders for my car. The ride is better. Handles better. And look better.
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Old 08-15-2013, 08:22 PM   #10
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I liked my H&R race springs, they had a good stance but are kind of harsh to ride on (high spring rates). They worked just fine with the stock shocks at 70K miles. I never scraped or anything like that. If you want a fairly stock feeling ride then try to pick up the FRPP C springs. If I remember correctly those are the springs that came on the Mach 1s and Bullitts.
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Old 08-15-2013, 10:54 PM   #11
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The H&R race springs are stiffer than the super sports or at least that's what they claim. I had a set of Eibach sportlines on a fox GT and after a couple years they got the "sag" in the back, but those cars were prone to that anyway it seemed. I almost went with the sportlines but they were just about a 1/4" lower than the H&R's and in MI where I live the roads are terrible!! I like the very slight rake the H&R's give as well. Either H&R or Eibach you can't go wrong with quality, I still think you want a little more than a 1.5" drop with a SN95 and 17" wheels, it looks a lot better a little lower. I've seen plenty with the 1.5" drop and 18" wheels, that combo looks great IMO. FRPP are made by Eibach and run a little cheaper in cost, same quality as far as I researched when I was shopping for my springs. Could always leave the isolators out with the 1.5" drop to give you a 1/4-1/2 more of a drop but then you run the risk of un wanted squeaks and creaks. I've heard of some guys using a rubber bike tire or a rubber coated electrical tape, on the bottom coil to serve as a isolator to get a little extra. I'm glad that I went with the heavier duty dampners looking back at it now, better ride and better feel, feels like a new car when your done, and might as well do it all while you have it torn down. As far as the CC plates I don't know how necessary they are in getting a correct allignment after the drop, I got mine aligned with the MM plates but the tech at the shop I was at said he had done several mustangs with a 2" drop without CC plates and was able to almost get them perfect to factory specs. The CC plates are a toss up in my mind, many people will tell you need to buy them, but who knows. Can always try without and then add them later.

---------- Post added at 11:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:52 PM ----------

To 02 360R- your car looks great!!! I love it, good job!! Perfect.
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Old 08-15-2013, 11:10 PM   #12
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Thanks Steve. I don't have cc plates and my car has been aligned and drives perfect. My mechanic did tell me I was -2 degrees camber.
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Old 08-15-2013, 11:40 PM   #13
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Have you looked into racaland coilovers? They are 500 bucks and very reliable
I thought the raceland coilovers you can't use cc plates with them?
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Old 08-16-2013, 12:34 AM   #14
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I have H&R super sports on my 96 GT, just had them installed this summer. They dropped the car 1 3/4" all the way around give or take an 1/8". I have them installed with Tokico HP front struts, Koni rear shocks, new poly isolators, and Maximum Motorsports CC plates. The ride is better than stock and I haven't bottomed out once. The handling and ride is much improved. It's stiffer but feels better and more solid if that makes any sense. The new ride height is perfect and looks like it should now. I too have 17" wheels with 255/45 in front and 315s in the back, with 17" wheels you need a little more than 1.5" IMO to make it look great. I was in the same boat as I didn't want to compromise ride quality and deal with scraping etc, but I took the plunge and I'm very pleasantly surprised that it doesn't bottom out and doesn't ride terrible. Have to do it right and replace the stock dampners IMO. I have 60k on mine and I think the stock dampners would bottom out, but with an 1.5" you may be ok for a while, then change if you need to. I would suggest the cc plates for getting it aligned right and also the new isolators while your doing it. Also had the ball joints replaced with a nice Moog set as everything was torn apart anyway. You won't regret lowering it at all, and your wife will love the look. SN96s need to be lowered to look right, and with you owning a cobra it will look great once you get it done. Just my 2 cents. I too searched and searched for the right sprig and dampners but I'm very happy with my choices so far.

---------- Post added at 07:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:01 PM ----------

Correcting SN95s stupid phone.
Thanks to everyone for the full replies. Steve96 can I ask why you went with Tokico in front and Koni in back? I thought it was best to go with a matched set of shocks / struts.

I know that Eibach makes the FRPP springs. And I've heard good things about Ford, plus they are cheaper. My main concern there has been that the Eibach Pro lists a drop of 1.5" all around. The FRPP springs list a drop of 1 to 1.2" drop. Not sure why they list less drop.


Anyone using the complete Eibach Pro Kit with the Eibach struts & shocks? Wondering how their dampers are. They claim to be better because the dampers are matched to the springs.


I read somewhere that Vogtland is the maker of Steeda springs. Not sure where people get this info.

I do know the Bilstein tuning kit comes with Eibach Pro springs.

I thought about just doing the springs to see how it goes. But I've had 3 back and 1 neck surgery, hence the name Spiney. I won't be doing the work. So I don't want to pay double to do the springs, then go back to do the shocks & struts.

As far as Raceland, when I first saw them I thought wow, here's my answer. But deeper searching on the web found a lot of bad reviews of them. Think out it. Koni, Bilstein, other Coilovers run $1100-1400. Raceland is $550. They are cutting some big corners somewhere, or the others are ripping us off. I wish they were true and not too good to be true. Please show me if I'm wrong here. Thanks much. Spiney-Dave
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Old 08-16-2013, 03:03 AM   #15
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Roush stage 2 lowering springs. No cc plates and still have stock struts/shocks
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Old 08-16-2013, 03:06 AM   #16
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Stock
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Old 08-16-2013, 06:09 AM   #17
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Spiney I'm eibach everything. The ride is great!
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Old 08-16-2013, 07:01 AM   #18
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Spiney. I have tokico front struts and koni rear shocks because after the original install one of the tokico shocks failed. The company I bought them from gave me a credit but were now out of stock in the tokico so I went with the koni and they also run a little cheaper too. I have had no issues with tokico in the front and koni in the back, you won't want to have two diff struts/shocks on the front or on the back together for sure, but as far as having a matching set front and matching set in the rear, there shouldn't be any issues with that.
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Old 08-16-2013, 08:11 AM   #19
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BBK Springs, Tokico Illuminas.



Cheap, effective, looks great. No squeaks/rattles/other disassociated noises and makes the car handle way better. I have speed humps/tables all over my neighborhood too and I just go over them slowly, no scraping.

Every Mustang needs to be lowered anyway. They look ri-goddam-diculous in stock form, no idea what Ford was thinking. The 05-09 and 10-14 cars aren't bad but omg the 94-04 cars...
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Old 08-17-2013, 09:27 PM   #20
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On my way. I picked up a pair of low mileage Bilstein HD Rear Shocks today at the Fun Ford Weekend Show in Reading. Got a deal, $80 for the pair. They are grooved for coil overs if I want to go that way too.

The same guy had 2 complete sets of used Eibach Pro Kit Springs for $120 but they looked harder used. And I didn't feel comfortable with them. From all the advice I got here, and other forums I may be going with H&R springs anyway.

So now I need to find good used Bilstein Struts or bite the bullet and buy a new pair.
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Old 08-17-2013, 10:53 PM   #21
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You should be very happy with the billsteins as I have rarely heard of anyone having issues with them, unless they were defective in some way to begin with. I am certain that you will be happy with the H&R springs. Are you going with the sports or the super sports? Either way they will change your cars appearance for the better and give it a great feel that you will notice right away. Your cobra will look great! (Jealous)
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Old 08-17-2013, 11:01 PM   #22
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I was told by several people, if you going to put on new springs, go ahead and do the shocks, struts and mounts also. Your already there. The Ford package lowered me around 1 inch. What the wife wont like, it's a rougher riding car. Handles great but that's the tradeoff.
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Old 08-18-2013, 06:35 AM   #23
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If you are doing springs you should be doing all of that at once for sure. Isolators, CC plates, shocks/struts/springs and honestly do the rear lower control arms too. MM or Steeda.
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Old 08-19-2013, 02:52 AM   #24
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If you are doing springs you should be doing all of that at once for sure. Isolators, CC plates, shocks/struts/springs and honestly do the rear lower control arms too. MM or Steeda.
What doe changing the rear lca's do for the car?

---------- Post added at 03:52 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:50 AM ----------

I need to save some $$$$ here and there, but still go with quality components. Is a 3 bolt C&C plate sufficient or is a 4 bolt required?
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Old 08-19-2013, 05:58 AM   #25
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I wonder why people would say not to lower it? 1.5" isn't going to cause you problems. Now if you have longtubes and an O/R midpipe, there would be some scrapping, but it doesn't ruin the car. Now I did cut my stock springs, but if you want to do it right, I'd recommend the FRPP springs. I have Koni shocks with no problems, and I hear good stuff about KYB.

---------- Post added at 02:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:17 PM ----------

To add on to what I was saying, maybe start with getting springs. Put em in, and see how they ride with your current shocks/struts. Now some say you don't want to do that because the shocks and struts are riding at a certain length, and if you lower it, you could cause them to leak prematurely. But I did just that and mine are in just as good shape as they were 5 years ago when I cut the springs. Maybe get some LCA's when you put the springs in. Those would help greatly with handling
As I suggested as well, LCA's will help with handling and keep your rear end in place better over the stockers. You will feel a difference.
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:32 AM   #26
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What doe changing the rear lca's do for the car?

---------- Post added at 03:52 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:50 AM ----------

I need to save some $$$$ here and there, but still go with quality components. Is a 3 bolt C&C plate sufficient or is a 4 bolt required?
LCAs from the aftermarket will not flex like the stockers. Also the bushings are better. I would ONLY get Steeda or MM ones though. The other brands can have suspension bind issues.
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Old 08-19-2013, 03:43 PM   #27
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Should you use the cc plates with a 1.5 drop or not?
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Old 08-19-2013, 05:30 PM   #28
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You should be using CC plates regardless.
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Old 08-19-2013, 11:51 PM   #29
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Found some used Bistein Struts w/ 22K on them. Should they be ok or too many miles?
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Old 08-20-2013, 03:32 AM   #30
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22k for Bilsteins should be fine but with all used parts, you never know what you'll get and there is no way to verify the mileage 100%.
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Old 08-20-2013, 02:05 PM   #31
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Yeah those billsteins should be fine with that amount of mileage. If it were anything other than billstein I wouldn't chance it though.
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Old 08-28-2013, 02:44 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post

LCAs from the aftermarket will not flex like the stockers. Also the bushings are better. I would ONLY get Steeda or MM ones though. The other brands can have suspension bind issues.
Do I need adjustable LCA's ?

I'm still agonizing over buying 20k mile Bilstein Struts for $200 or paying $400 for new ones. Thanks
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:14 AM   #33
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You do not need adj LCA's. if it were me I would buy the struts new, I personally don't like used suspension parts.
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Old 08-30-2013, 09:19 AM   #34
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You do not need adj LCA's. if it were me I would buy the struts new, I personally don't like used suspension parts.
You should get adjustables if you are going to go to the track every weekend and by playing with/swapping out suspension setups to get the very best times. If not then just regulars so I'm guessing just regulars lol. Having had both MM and Steeda... I have to say the Steedas hold my axle firmer when I launch. The Steedas are boxed units, the MMs are tubular like just about every other brand. My current 98 plants harder and stays straighter than my 95 did and the 95 had more power and just as fat tires on it.
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Old 09-19-2013, 04:22 AM   #35
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New Follow up question: Koni Yellows vs Bilstein Struts

Ok I've been gathering parts to lower my 96 SVT Cobra. Per forum feedback I bought H&R Sport Springs, MM caster camber plates, I picked up a great set of low mile Bilstein rear shocks. But I've been having a problem finding Bilstein Struts with lower miles. I will also be adding Subframe connectors and probably rear LCA'S.

I just found autoeverything.com has Koni Yellow adjustable struts for my car on sale for $149 each. Would they be a good Strut to go with the H&R springs? Looking for better handling without too stiff a ride. The feedback I was getting was go with Bilsteins. If I go with the Koni struts do I need to sell my Bilstein shocks and buy Koni yellow rear shocks?

So tapping the knowledge base once again. I'm itching to get this thing lowered before winter, so I can enjoy it still. Thanks, Spiney-Dave
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