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Old 08-23-2013, 02:30 PM   #1
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Are these good springs?

And what are the red pillar things? They say AGX on them with a dial to 8. Dont know much about suspension. Thanks! And how do i know what kind of flowmasters these are??
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Old 08-23-2013, 02:31 PM   #2
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Those are hnr and yes their good springs, the red things are shocks. The dial I assume is to stiffen or soften the ride.
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Old 08-23-2013, 02:33 PM   #3
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The red things are agx adjustable shocks and those are flowmaster 40 mufflers
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Old 08-23-2013, 02:35 PM   #4
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Roger that! Thanks for the quick help! Is AGX pretty good??
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Old 08-23-2013, 02:49 PM   #5
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Roger that! Thanks for the quick help! Is AGX pretty good??
Yep their not cheap
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Old 08-23-2013, 04:51 PM   #6
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How about this fuel pump? Looks pretty stock but i want to get a new filter for it. Should i?
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Old 08-23-2013, 04:52 PM   #7
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No need to unless its acting up
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Old 08-23-2013, 05:00 PM   #8
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Well when it was running before, it was real jerky and didnt have very much power. I looked at the injectors and there were chunks of something in the tips and i thought i would trace it back to the pump or tank.

---------- Post added at 05:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:59 PM ----------

So I'm wondering where it could have came from now...
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Old 08-23-2013, 05:09 PM   #9
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Plus is this what should be in the electrical connection? Yellowy goopy stuff??
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Old 08-23-2013, 05:45 PM   #10
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The "yellow goopy stuff" is dielectric grease. It protects the connection from corrosion. The stuff on the fuel injectors is the crap that collects in the intake manifold. It didn't come from the fuel tank. Its normal, unfortunately.
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Old 08-23-2013, 10:05 PM   #11
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The "yellow goopy stuff" is dielectric grease. It protects the connection from corrosion. The stuff on the fuel injectors is the crap that collects in the intake manifold. It didn't come from the fuel tank. Its normal, unfortunately.
Really? Would that cause my fuel problem then? I have pi heads and intake I'm putting in so that would fix that wouldnt it? I cant think of any other reason for getting running too rich on bank 1 and 2
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Old 08-23-2013, 11:53 PM   #12
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Really? Would that cause my fuel problem then? I have pi heads and intake I'm putting in so that would fix that wouldnt it? I cant think of any other reason for getting running too rich on bank 1 and 2
Yes. If you remove the heads and intake you will definitely be able to clean the gunk out of the top-end. I don't think that is your jerking problem though. It seems more like a fuel delivery problem but you say you're getting a too rich code? Well lets have it. It could be the oxygen sensors. It's easier to diagnose these problems BEFORE you take the car apart. A fuel pressure test would have been handy. How many miles are on your car?
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Old 08-23-2013, 11:56 PM   #13
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Just use sea foam !
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Old 08-24-2013, 12:05 AM   #14
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Just use sea foam !
Why didn't I think of that!
OP, DON'T!!!!!!!!
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Old 08-24-2013, 12:19 AM   #15
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Why didn't I think of that!
OP, DON'T!!!!!!!!
I've used it twice , works good for me ! Lol ,

If you have a real good reason not to, I wanna hear
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Old 08-24-2013, 01:37 AM   #16
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I've used it twice , works good for me ! Lol ,

If you have a real good reason not to, I wanna hear
Yes I do Slow. Seafoam was designed for two-stroke outboard marine engines. If you are familiar with how a two-stroke works then you already know that the fuel/air/oil mixture runs through the crankcase of the engine to lubricate everything. It can get pretty dirty inside there. It can be beneficial to keep the crankcase clean as with any engine to preserve the bearings and such. Luckily, with our 4-stroke engines, we don't have the crankcase acting as our intake manifold so it is easier to keep that part of the engine clean with regular oil changes. That leaves us with the top end to be concerned about.I think that poorly maintained PCV valves are probably the biggest culprit to contaminating the intake. A greasy, gritty gunk collects over time, the same stuff that we all clean off of our TB's. It is this stuff that is my "good reason not to" use it. Do you guys really want to flush that crap through your engine to get rid of it? Its going to get sucked through the intake valve on the intake stroke, stay in the combustion chamber during the compression and power stroke, then, hopefully, get spit out through the exhaust valve during the exhaust stroke. More than likely some of this gunk is going to be trapped forever on the top of the piston or elsewhere in the combustion chamber. This is why I dont recommend it. I've taken apart plenty of engines and the gunk is better off left where it is until it can be removed manually. The Seafoam is likely just spreading it around in the engine. You've read the horror stories. Thats what is happening. Gunk ending up where it shouldn't be.
Let me ask you this: How do you know the Seafoam actually helped? Was there a before and after teardown to determine how much cleaner the intake and combustion chamber were?
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Old 08-24-2013, 03:16 AM   #17
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Yes I do Slow. Seafoam was designed for two-stroke outboard marine engines. If you are familiar with how a two-stroke works then you already know that the fuel/air/oil mixture runs through the crankcase of the engine to lubricate everything. It can get pretty dirty inside there. It can be beneficial to keep the crankcase clean as with any engine to preserve the bearings and such. Luckily, with our 4-stroke engines, we don't have the crankcase acting as our intake manifold so it is easier to keep that part of the engine clean with regular oil changes. That leaves us with the top end to be concerned about.I think that poorly maintained PCV valves are probably the biggest culprit to contaminating the intake. A greasy, gritty gunk collects over time, the same stuff that we all clean off of our TB's. It is this stuff that is my "good reason not to" use it. Do you guys really want to flush that crap through your engine to get rid of it? Its going to get sucked through the intake valve on the intake stroke, stay in the combustion chamber during the compression and power stroke, then, hopefully, get spit out through the exhaust valve during the exhaust stroke. More than likely some of this gunk is going to be trapped forever on the top of the piston or elsewhere in the combustion chamber. This is why I dont recommend it. I've taken apart plenty of engines and the gunk is better off left where it is until it can be removed manually. The Seafoam is likely just spreading it around in the engine. You've read the horror stories. Thats what is happening. Gunk ending up where it shouldn't be.
Let me ask you this: How do you know the Seafoam actually helped? Was there a before and after teardown to determine how much cleaner the intake and combustion chamber were?
Well I never use it in my oil,
I add half to tank & half to my manifold.
And yeah actually one time it was running rough and pinging , and a buddy recommended trying it , so I did , And ran pretty damn smooth after , in my experience. No tear downs were made, I work on cars everyday At work, I hate working on anything else on my free time lol
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Old 08-24-2013, 03:42 AM   #18
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Well I never use it in my oil,
I add half to tank & half to my manifold.
And yeah actually one time it was running rough and pinging , and a buddy recommended trying it , so I did , And ran pretty damn smooth after , in my experience. No tear downs were made, I work on cars everyday At work, I hate working on anything else on my free time lol
Haha. I hear you. It's really the dirtiest engines that I fear using the stuff in. Ironically those would be the most in need.
Before I bought my Mustang, I was actually looking for a Lightning. I went to look at a 30k mile truck for $5500. He had just put Seafoam in the gas tank and it ran like sh t. It had been sitting for a long time.and there was apparently a lot of crud in the tank. The reason for the low price on a second generation Lightning? It had been beat to death. Clean title but had been obviously totalled and repaired down in Mexico. They even left the cracked frame. Lol. I offered 4500 and he came back at 4800. I passed. The way it was running and the condition put me off. I regret not buying it. Just for the low mileage engine...
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Old 08-24-2013, 07:21 PM   #19
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I've sea foamed once or twice and only do it for the smokey effect. Lol but besides that, i needed to tear the engine down to swap piston rings, main bearings and rod bearings, so while I'm down there i figured id diagnose the situation with the fuel. Could it be the fuel pump possibly? I took it out and everything looked pretty clean and good but internally there could be something wrong i suppose... Anywho, i have my exhaust off and am looking at all 4 o2 sensors i believe. Correct me if I'm wrong. But any way to trouble shoot them while i have them out?
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Old 08-24-2013, 07:34 PM   #20
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Yes! There is a way to test the 02 sensors. If you search through some of cliffyk's recent posts, he has linked the test procedure, using a propane torch, at least a few times. The fuel pump can look brand new on the outside and not work at all on the inside. Lol. (Kinda like our cars). I dont know, if the car has high miles then you might want to replace it while you have it out. Again, it's more difficult to diagnose when its torn apart.
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Old 08-24-2013, 09:11 PM   #21
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It's back in now... So once i get the engine back in if it's still happening, I'll troubleshoot from there. I'll look for the o2 sensor stuff though. Thanks!
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Old 08-25-2013, 06:34 PM   #22
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Ok well i need a little help on PI intake stuff.im putting a pi intake on non pi heads and I'll seal it down with silicone and all that but i have a question. This sensor on the non pi has a spot. The pi intake does Not have the same spot to put it in. Take a look: help please!
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Old 08-25-2013, 10:08 PM   #23
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Disregard. I made a new thread. It was irrelevant to this thread.
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