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Old 09-20-2013, 08:47 PM   #1
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Oil

I've noticed that my oil has been getting black after about only 2 months. I use full synthetic which is supposed to last longer. Any idea why?
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Old 09-20-2013, 09:22 PM   #2
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Two months doesn't mean a damned thing, how many miles and what sort of driving?
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Old 09-20-2013, 09:46 PM   #3
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Two months doesn't mean a damned thing, how many miles and what sort of driving?
I drive 2 miles to and from work. But I only drive it on Saturdays and Sundays since I take company cars home during the week.
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Old 09-20-2013, 09:50 PM   #4
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I drive 2 miles to and from work. But I only drive it on Saturdays and Sundays since I take company cars home during the week.
Pic ?
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Old 09-20-2013, 09:58 PM   #5
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Pic ?
I just changed the oil earlier today. But it was pitch black.
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Old 09-21-2013, 12:39 AM   #6
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Oil don't stay clean and clear for ever
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Old 09-21-2013, 12:59 AM   #7
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How long have you had the car and when did you switch to synthetic? How many miles have you put on it in the last two months?
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Old 09-21-2013, 06:53 AM   #8
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I drive 2 miles to and from work. But I only drive it on Saturdays and Sundays since I take company cars home during the week.
There you have it then, I cannot think of anything worse you could be doing to that engine. Find a long way home (15 to 20 miles) that will let the poor engine get hot and run hot for a while.

Or pick up a beater and don't dtive the Mustang unless you intend to actually drive it...
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New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
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Old 09-21-2013, 07:20 AM   #9
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+1 with cliffy
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Old 09-21-2013, 08:23 AM   #10
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There you have it then, I cannot think of anything worse you could be doing to that engine. Find a long way home (15 to 20 miles) that will let the poor engine get hot and run hot for a while.

Or pick up a beater and don't dtive the Mustang unless you intend to actually drive it...
Yep, there is a reason that the term "highway miles" is used to describe the mileage and this is it. Short drives without letting the motor properly warm up is THE worst thing you can be doing to it.
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Old 09-21-2013, 08:40 AM   #11
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I'm sure the synthetic oil you are using is decent but I would recommend using Amsoil. They have many different intervals and I personally use the 25k interval. Ive had samples sent to get tested after the 25k and the lab came back and said it could still safely be ran in an engine.
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Old 09-21-2013, 10:19 AM   #12
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I'm sure the synthetic oil you are using is decent but I would recommend using Amsoil. They have many different intervals and I personally use the 25k interval. Ive had samples sent to get tested after the 25k and the lab came back and said it could still safely be ran in an engine.
25k miles between oil changes is the second worse thing I can think of doing to an engine, I don't care what oil or what any lab has to say.

As to the OP's situation thereis no point in his using synthetic oil as long as he is only making 2 mile trips four times a week. Buy the cheapest stuff you can find and change it once a month...
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SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, FRPP 24lb/h, Magnaflow, PP 70mm TB & plenum, Delta Force tuned,
Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
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Old 09-21-2013, 10:41 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffyk View Post
25k miles between oil changes is the second worse thing I can think of doing to an engine, I don't care what oil or what any lab has to say. As to the OP's situation thereis no point in his using synthetic oil as long as he is only making 2 mile trips four times a week. Buy the cheapest stuff you can find and change it once a month...
+1 I run synthetic moblie 1 and change it every two months or 2500k miles whatever comes first..
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Old 09-21-2013, 12:00 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by cliffyk View Post

25k miles between oil changes is the second worse thing I can think of doing to an engine, I don't care what oil or what any lab has to say.

As to the OP's situation thereis no point in his using synthetic oil as long as he is only making 2 mile trips four times a week. Buy the cheapest stuff you can find and change it once a month...
Agreed again not to mention amsoil is COMPLETE overkill for anything not a race engine. I use and recommend motorcraft blend oil. $17 for 5 qt jug at wallyworld and a $5 WIX (Napa) filter. Done and done. The Super Tech Wallywolrd synthetic is also a good full syn and just about the same price. For conventional oil... Anything is good. I use auto zone brand dino oil for the initial break in oil on a new/rebuilt engine.
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Old 09-21-2013, 12:57 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffyk View Post
25k miles between oil changes is the second worse thing I can think of doing to an engine, I don't care what oil or what any lab has to say.

As to the OP's situation thereis no point in his using synthetic oil as long as he is only making 2 mile trips four times a week. Buy the cheapest stuff you can find and change it once a month...
Guilty

I have been known to double the recommended interval.
I don't recommended it though.
My circumstances were "unique".

Years ago, I read an article where some institution (don't remember who) took two brand new San Francisco taxi cabs (Crown Vics), disassembled the engines and measured all of the tolerances. They then reassembled the engines and put the cars into service.
One of the cars recieved all of the oil changes as recommended by the factory.
The other car only received a new oil filter at the factory intervals. They left the same oil and just kept it topped off.
After 100k miles they then disassembled the engines again and measured all of the tolerances...

There was no measurable difference between the two engines.

Maybe not the most scientific test in the world but the point comes through.

Big city taxis (at that time) are rarely shut off. There is no time for condensation ar any of the acids that build up in oil to do their "magic" on the metal. Everything is constantly being burned off.
Again, I don't advocate doing this.

Cliffy and Scotty are right... You guys are wasting your money buying these expensive synthetic oils. Your cars don't need it.
Unless you plan on running the Daytona 500 this year, of course...
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Old 09-21-2013, 01:27 PM   #16
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Amsoil is no better or worse than any other "name brand" synthetic oil, they just promote it as being so and have developed faithful following of Kool-aid drinkers willing to pay silly prices for something that has never been shown to be any better than any other synthetic engine oil (except in their own testing}.

Also I only said that the OP was wasting money on synthetic oil; this because the abuse he puts the poor engine through demands that the oil be changed so frequently (to flush out contaminents) that he may as well use cheap dino-juice.

I run synthetic (M1 usually because I stock up when it's on sale) in all our vehicles--changed every 3k miles or so. The SL500 holds 8.5 qts so I think I will let that go 5k; it also has a good sized cartridge filter...
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SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, FRPP 24lb/h, Magnaflow, PP 70mm TB & plenum, Delta Force tuned,
Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
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Old 09-21-2013, 02:22 PM   #17
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Okay thanks guys. Ill find a longer route home on the weekends. Ill stay to changing the oil every 2 months or 2500 miles.
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Old 09-22-2013, 08:57 PM   #18
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Can putting bulk oil from like a jiffy lube be bad
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:07 PM   #19
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Can putting bulk oil from like a jiffy lube be bad
I would be much more concerned about the mechanical quality of the work performed than the quality of the oil or oil filters (though many quick lube places do buy the cheapest filters they can find¹). The "mechanics" at such places are not the best trained or most competent even if reasonably well trained--issues such as stripped drain plugs, and dangling/damaged plastic undercovers due to missing/stripped screws would be my major concerns....


------------------------------------------
¹ - Buying the "cheapest there is" will very often get you the "cheapest there is"...
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New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:18 PM   #20
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Lol "mechanics". Cliffy you are being too nice. If you are lucky it'll be some college kid or illegal who is halfway competent at turning a wrench...

As far as issues... lol. Not changing the filter, using the wrong oil, stripped drain plugs, damage to your upholstery or nicks in the paint or sometimes just topping you off and not changing anything or FORGETTING to put oil in after they are done. And I'm not just talking **** this stuff has happened to plenty of ppl.

My Father in Law works at Honda and he has plenty of horror stories about the younger "techs" who shouldn't be let near a toaster much less a car.
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:22 PM   #21
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Lube shops hire anyone

---------- Post added at 09:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:21 PM ----------

When I was 14 I got hired to do oil changes at a gas station lol
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:26 PM   #22
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Wow ok I'll stay clear of them I'll buy cheap oil I guess and do it myself. money is tight right now
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:33 PM   #23
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There is a Pennzoil place nearby that does great work. I do not use them however many of my neighbors do and in 12 years I have not heard any horror stories. The workforce seems to be stable and the franchise owner is a well liked and respected neighbor who is there every day. If there were a problem we could form a posse and "string him up"--and here in N.E. Florida that is not just an idle threat.

I am sure this the difference--not the potential for a posse, just that he is a neighbor and good guy--between our shop and the more common "absentee owner" joints...

---------- Post added at 10:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:29 PM ----------

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Wow ok I'll stay clear of them I'll buy cheap oil I guess and do it myself. money is tight right now
If money is tight then DIY is the only way to go. Buy name brand dino oil and a Motorcraft filter (around $3.50 at Walmart last I knew), and change it every 2500-3000 miles. You will be AOK...
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Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:50 PM   #24
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If money is tight then DIY is the only way to go. Buy name brand dino oil and a Motorcraft filter (around $3.50 at Walmart last I knew), and change it every 2500-3000 miles. You will be AOK...
I used Motorcraft filter last change and it was like 3sumtin but I used "full synthetic" valvoline but I'll get conventional if it's all just the same. All I do is city driving
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:58 PM   #25
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I used Motorcraft filter last change and it was like 3sumtin but I used "full synthetic" valvoline but I'll get conventional if it's all just the same. All I do is city driving
If you do "city driving" then changing the oil frequently is much more important than whether you use dino or synthetic oil. In that sort of driving the oil will never get hot enough to boil off the nasty by-products of combustion (acids, water, etc.); or to "degrade from excessive heat common in modern engines"--oddly perhaps the most valid claim made for synthetic oil.

The only way to flush them out is changing the oil. The "advanced" properties of synthetic oil are irrelevant in comparison the just getting the nasty shít out...
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SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, FRPP 24lb/h, Magnaflow, PP 70mm TB & plenum, Delta Force tuned,
Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
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Old 09-22-2013, 10:03 PM   #26
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Ok yeah I will use regular oil and change it more often. It's 20 mile round trip maybe 5-6 days a week but it's stop and go traffic (during rush hour)
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Old 09-22-2013, 10:06 PM   #27
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Ok yeah I will use regular oil and change it more often. It's 20 mile round trip maybe 5-6 days a week but it's stop and go traffic (during rush hour)
That is severe duty, keep the oil clean and you will be OK...
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SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, FRPP 24lb/h, Magnaflow, PP 70mm TB & plenum, Delta Force tuned,
Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq
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Old 09-23-2013, 10:53 AM   #28
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Hit up Wal Mart and get the cheapest oil you can find in the weight you need and a Motorcraft filter. If it costs you any more than $25 you are doing it wrong.
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:08 AM   #29
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I get full synthetic and the motorcraft filter all for $35
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:14 AM   #30
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Damn^ my oil change with royal purple is around 60$
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:14 AM   #31
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Lol I get it for under $25. 5 qt jug is $18, qt is $3 and filter is $3. Ok so add like $2 tax so $27...

You can also get Advance Auto Parts oil for under $10/gal at their stores too... $12 for oil there and basic Purolator filter gets you an oil change for $15
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:18 AM   #32
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Lol I get it for under $25. 5 qt jug is $18, qt is $3 and filter is $3. Ok so add like $2 tax so $27... You can also get Advance Auto Parts oil for under $10/gal at their stores too... $12 for oil there and basic Purolator filter gets you an oil change for $15
RP for that price?
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:29 AM   #33
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RP for that price?
No Motorcraft, you sniped my response lol. RP is another one that is completely overkill and honestly a waste of money unless you are racing the car every weekend and even then...
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:32 AM   #34
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No Motorcraft, you sniped my response lol. RP is another one that is completely overkill and honestly a waste of money unless you are racing the car every weekend and even then...
May as well say I race it lol but I put 8-10k on my oil change. Change filter & add a quart every 3-5k depending on what my oil looks like. Full oil change every 8-10k
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:38 AM   #35
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I don't like to go that far in between changes but the oils these days can do it, just make sure you are using a higher end filter like a WIX (Napa) unit. I like to do it every 3-5k miles on mine.

And in all honesty I will go to a higher end oil when I build my Teksid but it will be M1, not RP or Amsoil or anything. M1 is on the same level as those two and you can often get deals on it in the gallon or 5qt jugs or catch a sale at Wal Mart or wherever.

Hit up bobistheoilguy for more info on erl than you can shake a stick at.
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