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Old 09-20-2013, 10:46 PM   #1
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SPARK PLUG GAP

I have a 2000 mustang GT and just bought NGK G POWER spark plugs and I also got new boots ... what do I need to gap the plugs to and any info on issues I may run into tomorrow when changing them would be appreciated. I don't have a torque wrench, is that necessary or would a normal socket wrench be good enough
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Old 09-20-2013, 11:13 PM   #2
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.054"-.056" and buy an in-lb torque wrench. I don't remember the torque spec off the top of my head but if you over torque the plugs they're just gonna blow out on you later on down the road.
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Old 09-20-2013, 11:18 PM   #3
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I have a wire spark plug gap tool... .050 fits and has room left and .060 is just to big to fit.. would that mean that it is roughly where I want it... all 8 plugs seem to be basically the same gap .... fuuuu hahaha a torque wrench is like 100+ dollars hah prob be cheaper to get a mechanic to install then to buy one ugggh
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Old 09-20-2013, 11:21 PM   #4
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I have a wire spark plug gap tool... .050 fits and has room left and .060 is just to big to fit.. would that mean that it is roughly where I want it... all 8 plugs seem to be basically the same gap .... fuuuu hahaha a torque wrench is like 100+ dollars hah prob be cheaper to get a mechanic to install then to buy one ugggh
(Knock on wood) I have done 3-4 sets of plugs on a 2v and never had a problem.. Aka without a tourque wrench
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Old 09-20-2013, 11:25 PM   #5
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Couldn't you rent one from Autozone or Napa? I wouldn't trust the manufacturers gap, my plugs had close to .005" variance between all 8 when I checked them before installing them.
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Old 09-20-2013, 11:26 PM   #6
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the drivers side looks easy to do but passenger side looks like a lot I will have to disconnect.. there is a hose coming out of the firewall I assume I have to remove and im not sure what its for hah... along with the air intake and the hoses attached to it and a few clips on various things... did you remove all this... and will an extension and socket wrench do the job, I don't have a swivel head unfortunately will I need one...
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Old 09-20-2013, 11:29 PM   #7
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the drivers side looks easy to do but passenger side looks like a lot I will have to disconnect.. there is a hose coming out of the firewall I assume I have to remove and im not sure what its for hah... along with the air intake and the hoses attached to it and a few clips on various things... did you remove all this... and will an extension and socket wrench do the job, I don't have a swivel head unfortunately will I need one...
I took out my cold air intake and that was it, I used a 6" extension, no need for a swivel
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Old 09-20-2013, 11:32 PM   #8
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my gapper goes .040 .060 .044 .045 .080 .050 .. all plugs allowed the .050 to fit with a lil room left but would not allow the.060 so I assume there all very close... being somewhere between .050 -.060 and if like you said .056 is what it should be then should be okay rite...

---------- Post added at 10:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:30 PM ----------

my engine bay is decently clean but iam afraid of dust or **** falling in the hole when removing the plug or moving around dust or dirt or sand whatever falling in from around the engine bay.. I don't have an air compressor so I cant blow the crap out... is it necessary to have the area spotless or am I just paranoid
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Old 09-20-2013, 11:42 PM   #9
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my gapper goes .040 .060 .044 .045 .080 .050 .. all plugs allowed the .050 to fit with a lil room left but would not allow the.060 so I assume there all very close... being somewhere between .050 -.060 and if like you said .056 is what it should be then should be okay rite... ---------- Post added at 10:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:30 PM ---------- my engine bay is decently clean but iam afraid of dust or **** falling in the hole when removing the plug or moving around dust or dirt or sand whatever falling in from around the engine bay.. I don't have an air compressor so I cant blow the crap out... is it necessary to have the area spotless or am I just paranoid
Mine was dirty as hell I wasn't too worried..
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Old 09-20-2013, 11:51 PM   #10
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yah kinda tight around the cops to be able to clean it much. hopefully no debris falls in... id you notice any crap fall in yours at all... would it just be burnt up or will it cause damage
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Old 09-20-2013, 11:53 PM   #11
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my gapper goes .040 .060 .044 .045 .080 .050 .. all plugs allowed the .050 to fit with a lil room left but would not allow the.060 so I assume there all very close... being somewhere between .050 -.060 and if like you said .056 is what it should be then should be okay rite...

---------- Post added at 10:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:30 PM ----------

my engine bay is decently clean but iam afraid of dust or **** falling in the hole when removing the plug or moving around dust or dirt or sand whatever falling in from around the engine bay.. I don't have an air compressor so I cant blow the crap out... is it necessary to have the area spotless or am I just paranoid
Use your vacuum cleaner...
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Old 09-20-2013, 11:57 PM   #12
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my buddy recommended that as well but I cant see it doing anything hah unless you mean like once the cop and plugs removed stick it on the hole... I wonder if it would even make a difference
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Old 09-21-2013, 12:00 AM   #13
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my buddy recommended that as well but I cant see it doing anything hah unless you mean like once the cop and plugs removed stick it on the hole... I wonder if it would even make a difference
Yes, do exactly that.
It'll work...

---------- Post added at 10:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:59 PM ----------

Before removing the plugs, of course...
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Old 09-21-2013, 12:04 AM   #14
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what about anti seeze .. is it necessary... I didn't get any when I grabbed my plugs... any brand recommended or screw it
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Old 09-21-2013, 12:13 AM   #15
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what about anti seeze .. is it necessary... I didn't get any when I grabbed my plugs... any brand recommended or screw it
Yes, definitely use anti-seize.
One brand is as good as another.
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Old 09-21-2013, 12:22 AM   #16
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ill just buy a torque wrench from walamrt and return it when im done hahaha any idea of what to torque down to... since ill be using anti seize it may not be correct
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Old 09-21-2013, 12:26 AM   #17
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Haha. Usually the auto parts stores will "loan" you tools so you dont have to cheat like that. I don't know the torque off the top of my head. Just google it.
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Old 09-21-2013, 12:33 AM   #18
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thanks for your help, hopefully tmrw goes good and my car still runs at the end of the day ahah
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Old 09-21-2013, 08:28 AM   #19
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$20 torque wrench you need

If you do it without a torque wrench, you'll deserve it when a plug blows out or strips on you. The heads on your 2000 have only a few plug threads and are notorious for stripping out when ppl just use a calibrated wrist. Torque to 12 ft lbs which is 144 inch lbs (145 is fine) on that inch lb torque wrench.
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Old 09-21-2013, 08:46 AM   #20
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A torque wrench is a great idea, and would be beneficial. Champion spark plugs recommends hand tight, then quarter turn. Problem is people think hand tight is using their arm.
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Old 09-21-2013, 09:54 AM   #21
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Ya hand tight means when it stops turning. Honestly thats still bad advice on Champions part. A torque wrench is cheap and you know you are doing it right. No idea why PPl don't use them.
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Old 09-21-2013, 10:48 AM   #22
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ugggh you guys have me nervous to change my plugs in this car haha hopefully the previous owner never over tightened them putting them in and they strip on the way out or anything ugggh
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Old 09-21-2013, 10:58 AM   #23
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Did my plugs early on into my ownership, and like you was kinda unsure about the process.
1) DO NOT remove the fuel rail...only thing truly necessary to remove is the CAI
2) 10mm (i think) to remove the screw holding the cop's down, pull the cops out. If you dont have an air compressor, use a straw and blow the chit outta the plug well.
3) Yes, anti-seize on the new plugs...Dielectric grease on the cop ends and top bit of the new plugs
4) May/May not need a swivel-head for the rear plugs, but using a 1/4" drive w/ 6" ext is small enough to do the trick.
5) well, make that step 1, but do the plugs when the engine is stone cold
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Old 09-21-2013, 11:07 AM   #24
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for the new boots I assume I just drop that spring down the middle in the boot and that's it.... ugggh so I need a torque wrench, anti seize and dielectric grease and a milkshake from McDonalds and I can get this started
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Old 09-21-2013, 11:24 AM   #25
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for the new boots I assume I just drop that spring down the middle in the boot and that's it.... ugggh so I need a torque wrench, anti seize and dielectric grease and a milkshake from McDonalds and I can get this started
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Old 09-21-2013, 11:42 AM   #26
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uggh so what kind of anti seize should I be buying seems like a lot of different types
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Old 09-21-2013, 11:54 AM   #27
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for the new boots I assume I just drop that spring down the middle in the boot and that's it.... ugggh so I need a torque wrench, anti seize and dielectric grease and a milkshake from McDonalds and I can get this started
No 6 pack?

Haha for the anti seize I just get basic cheapo anti seize.
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Old 09-21-2013, 11:56 AM   #28
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ohh hahaha I have beers that's a necessity of fixing the car yourself ... yah but theres copper, silver, nickel, buncha options like that
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Old 09-21-2013, 12:45 PM   #29
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Basic cheapo permatex silver stuff.
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Old 09-21-2013, 06:13 PM   #30
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uggh so everywhere is sold out of torque wrenches the cheap ones so I guess ill have to wait until tmrw after work and try again...
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Old 09-22-2013, 07:02 PM   #31
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so got a torque wrench, anti sieze but no dielectric grease .. I plan to change the plugs again in about 6 months when I go over the whole engine so do you think it is absolutely necessary... just drove around 10 miles home from work and the car has been sitting for a couple hours now and the engine is still hot... how long should it take to cool before its safe to pull the plugs... someone at work told me to pull them on a warm engine but I think that's bad advice.. correct me if im wrong please
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Old 09-22-2013, 07:16 PM   #32
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Naw, let it cool off for an hour or so.
I always use the dielectric grease, but, the sky won't fall if you elect not to use it.
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Old 09-22-2013, 07:23 PM   #33
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fuuu its been coolin for a couple hours haha still very warm if not hot to the touch and that was a short drive.. kinda makes me think
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Old 09-22-2013, 11:03 PM   #34
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fuuu its been coolin for a couple hours haha still very warm if not hot to the touch and that was a short drive.. kinda makes me think
Think what? that the engine hasn't properly cooled down enuff to swap the plugs out? lol do it in the morn brah
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Old 09-22-2013, 11:38 PM   #35
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I wrenched the sh*t out of my plugs last time I installed them. We'll not exactly that bad but I'm sure it's well over 12 pounds, guess I better check that tomorrow
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