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Old 09-30-2013, 10:14 PM   #1
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Replacing clutch / parts

Next thing on my list is clutch / flywheel / fork / TOB / pilot bearing since my TOB is making too much noise it's so annoying , and I might as well do clutch anyways before Longtubes

I was going to get the stage 2 exedy, now is really upgrading the flywheel worth it?

Also going for FRPP TOB/ fork arm / pilot bearing

I will be doing a DIY thread for this Aswell in my drive way and post it on here for anyone who needs it
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Old 09-30-2013, 10:44 PM   #2
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Just bought the exedy stage 2, frpp pilot and throw out bearing, and I'm just waiting to install it. Gotta finish up the engine work and it'll all drop in here soon i hope!
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Old 09-30-2013, 10:50 PM   #3
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You're gonna love that clutch! It really grabs and good thing you're getting frrp parts with it. You don't need a new flywheel just getting you're current one resurfaced is fine but it's all up to you. It's not that hard if you're doing it with a friend and some air tools. Took me and my friend about 6 hours to do the whole job
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Old 10-01-2013, 12:42 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Venomouz831 View Post
You're gonna love that clutch! It really grabs and good thing you're getting frrp parts with it. You don't need a new flywheel just getting you're current one resurfaced is fine but it's all up to you. It's not that hard if you're doing it with a friend and some air tools. Took me and my friend about 6 hours to do the whole job
Hope so! I've heard some good things about them,
And of course I've done 2 clutches on these mustangs and it's not too bad , I've leaned ford is the way to go with bearings.. And going to just replace that fork while I'm there to a more heavy duty one. Should I just go ahead and do the whole clutch cable / quad / firewall adjuster while I'm there ?
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Old 10-01-2013, 12:44 AM   #5
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I didn't do it because I forgot to order it and didn't wanna wait to get my car driving again. A lot of people have said nothing but good things about it so yea go for it
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Old 10-01-2013, 08:52 AM   #6
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I'm running the MACH400 clutch in my car and it's been great so far. Best thing is it doesn't freakin' chatter! Took me several hours (off and on pretty much all day) on a lift. You have factory manifolds on your car?
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Old 10-01-2013, 09:02 AM   #7
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Should I just go ahead and do the whole clutch cable / quad / firewall adjuster while I'm there ?
If youre running stock quadrant with no fw adjuster might as well, I recommend Maximum Motorsports quadrant, fw adjuster, and cable. From what I know most will recommend an oem cable, MM cable is oem, believe they say on their site, their manufacturer is the smart one Ford uses.
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Old 10-01-2013, 09:13 AM   #8
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I use a steeda quad and adjuster, stock cable. Seems to work just fine
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Old 10-01-2013, 09:26 AM   #9
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Yeah ,. I've user a adjustable cable before but never really fully understood how to set it up correctly ..
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Old 10-01-2013, 10:42 AM   #10
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I have had the exedy stage 2 for about a year and a half with the steeda adj clutch cable, along with an OEM flywheel and I have not had to mess with it once since I did it. I love it so much and grabs like a mother
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Old 10-01-2013, 04:27 PM   #11
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Look into an aluminum flywheel and see if it's something that you can live with. I only bring it up because you keep mentioning an aluminum driveshaft. You'll get a bigger "bang for your buck" with the flywheel but there are some drawbacks.
One of the guys that runs in my class at the autocross has one and says that it made a noticeable difference across the entire RPM range. And his car is a daily driver.
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Old 10-01-2013, 08:59 PM   #12
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Get a wot box if you get an aluminum flywheel. The OEM terminator clutch is a good one if you want OEM. I personally see 0 reason to replace the stock cable and quadrant. Its self adjusting, no issues with it not disengaging the tob and it works and its free.
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Old 10-01-2013, 09:05 PM   #13
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Get a wot box if you get an aluminum flywheel. The OEM terminator clutch is a good one if you want OEM. I personally see 0 reason to replace the stock cable and quadrant. Its self adjusting, no issues with it not disengaging the tob and it works and its free.
Where can I get a cobra clutch ? Without going to ford ?

My cable feels really squishy and not solid like it should ..
I do the self adjusting trick but it only works sometimes
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Old 10-01-2013, 09:09 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Slow4V View Post

Where can I get a cobra clutch ? Without going to ford ?

My cable feels really squishy and not solid like it should ..
I do the self adjusting trick but it only works sometimes
I recommend you put an aftermarket adjuster and quadrant in first. The stock adjuster wears out.
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Old 10-02-2013, 06:20 AM   #15
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I recommend you put an aftermarket adjuster and quadrant in first. The stock adjuster wears out.
Will the quad / adjuster fit my stock clutch cable ?
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Old 10-02-2013, 07:07 AM   #16
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Will the quad / adjuster fit my stock clutch cable ?
I believe so. There is a piece that needs to be removed from the sick cable though to make it work.
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Old 10-02-2013, 09:58 AM   #17
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I believe so. There is a piece that needs to be removed from the sick cable though to make it work.
Piece needs to be removed even from aftermarket cables. If you buy a double hook quadrant the stock cable will fit just fine. I have a steeda quadrant and adjuster with a stock cable on my car. Just right for me, a little flop at the top and it's adjusted to where it still grabs pretty high. Installation isn't very tough, but you're best to remove your seat if you're a tall person.

I should expand this a little for slow: the stock unit is an automatic adjuster that uses two plastic gears to allow you to pull up on the pedal and adjust it. Only issue is the plastic teeth wear, round off, or even completely strip. Symptoms I had in my GT was the engagement was changing as I was driving because the teeth were rounded and slipping on each other. The aftermarket quadrant is a solid aluminum piece that doesn't rely on any ratcheting mechanism to adjust. Instead there's the firewall adjuster that acts as a spacer that takes up slack in the cable. You bolt the firewall adjuster to your firewall, and turn the spacer out to tighten or loosen the cable. That way you can manually set how much slack is in the cable, which changes where the clutch engages as you push the pedal down instead of depending on crappy plastic teeth to keep things fairly taut.
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