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Old 10-25-2013, 07:36 PM   #36
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Exactly flows tend to go real quick, rusty as hell. i luckily got my flows off my car and sold them for $100 or both and got slp. if you want annoying dump your flows and hit 5th at any low rpms and youll want to hang yourself
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Old 10-25-2013, 09:03 PM   #37
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Exactly flows tend to go real quick, rusty as hell. i luckily got my flows off my car and sold them for $100 or both and got slp. if you want annoying dump your flows and hit 5th at any low rpms and youll want to hang yourself
This is my flow master catback after nine yrs, 4 years of winter driving in Chicago and my bbk ceramic coated headers that have been on the same period, I think the flows look much better!
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Old 10-26-2013, 09:18 AM   #38
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Until you open them up..
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Old 10-26-2013, 09:46 AM   #39
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Until you open them up..
Um, ok chief , Aluminized Steel vs. 409 Stainless Steel Both aluminized steel and 409 stainless steel are excellent products for automotive exhaust applications. Both offer excellent heat and corrosion resistance and both can be easily welded. Aluminized steel is steel that has been hot-dip coated with an aluminum-silicon alloy containing between 5 and 11% silicon to promote better adherence. It offers more corrosion resistance than galvanized steel and is 20 times more heat resistant than cold-rolled steel and 5 times more heat resistant than galvanized steel. Used widely in original equipment and aftermarket exhaust systems, aluminized steel is used by most muffler shops. It is a very long-life product and will generally outlast mufflers by years. It is very workable and accepts bends without stressing. The principal advantage of aluminized steel is its lower cost. 409 is a titanium stabilized ferritic stainless steel which means that it is a steel alloy containing chromium. It contains less nickel and more carbon than 304 stainless steel. Ferritics are best suited for high temperature applications that require corrosion resistance and high strength. The principal use of 409 stainless steel is automotive exhaust systems and most catalytic converter shells are made of 409. More workable and stable than 304, 409 will accept bending and heat cycling better than 304. It resists both atmospheric and exhaust gas corrosion. It is magnetic due to its higher carbon content. Through chemical reaction, it oxidizes to a slight brownish hue which aids in corrosion resistance. While it does not polish well, it offers the advantages of higher strength, lower cost and longer life due to its heat handling qualities. As you can see both are excellent products!
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Old 10-26-2013, 10:46 AM   #40
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Don't call me that. I'm not even gonna read all that. In my opinion flowmaster sucks ***. Sounds like ***. So you can keep your chambered 80s truck exhaust system.
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Old 10-26-2013, 11:02 AM   #41
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Don't call me that. I'm not even gonna read all that. In my opinion flowmaster sucks ***. Sounds like ***. So you can keep your chambered 80s truck exhaust system.
That's fine that you think they suck , but you should read the post so you can give an educated opinion next time instead of just spewing crap out of you mouth,
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Old 10-26-2013, 11:41 AM   #42
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That's fine that you think they suck , but you should read the post so you can give an educated opinion next time instead of just spewing crap out of you mouth,
You guys realize your having a argument online about exhaust systems? The passion is great but come on. Everyone has their own opinion and that should be respected. We are all on the same side, the mustang side!!
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Old 10-26-2013, 11:49 AM   #43
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You guys realize your having a argument online about exhaust systems? The passion is great but come on. Everyone has their own opinion and that should be respected. We are all on the same side, the mustang side!!
A couple of these guys stated the flowmaster rusts very quickly, which is not true and giving the op bad info , my post was just to clear that up , if they don't like the tone of the system that's fine but don't give out false info, no need to argue the facts
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Old 10-26-2013, 12:44 PM   #44
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A couple of these guys stated the flowmaster rusts very quickly, which is not true and giving the op bad info , my post was just to clear that up , if they don't like the tone of the system that's fine but don't give out false info, no need to argue the facts
I actually agree with you on the flowmasters. I personally don't use them anymore but have in the past and always have been happy with them. Most of the people on here don't drive their cars in the winter anyway so it shouldn't matter too much. Just keep it sprayed off a couple times a week if you do and it should be fine for years.

---------- Post added at 01:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:41 PM ----------

Quote:
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A couple of these guys stated the flowmaster rusts very quickly, which is not true and giving the op bad info , my post was just to clear that up , if they don't like the tone of the system that's fine but don't give out false info, no need to argue the facts
Plus flowmaster has been around for years and years. They have a great reputation so anyone should be confident in using their systems, IMO.
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Old 10-26-2013, 01:10 PM   #45
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Haven't flowmasters and mustangs been the main combo since forever????
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Old 10-26-2013, 01:23 PM   #46
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Haven't flowmasters and mustangs been the main combo since forever????
That is true. Fo sho.
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Old 10-27-2013, 10:08 PM   #47
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I had flowmasters on my 91 and the aluminized piping did corrode. I know the difference of what driving one of those exhausts in winter weather for years and what a fully stainless exhaust looks like in the same conditions. There is a very noticeable difference.
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Old 10-27-2013, 10:34 PM   #48
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Since this thread is already detailed..

What do you guys suggest is the best Long tube header/catted h Pipe for a 2004 GT?

..With the Flowmaster Back LOL!!

---------- Post added at 08:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:32 PM ----------

My cats are going bad and I need the catted h first. But am going to get the long tubes later on.
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Old 10-28-2013, 12:04 AM   #49
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Bbk. Slp. Kooks. SW. Pypes. Mac. All good. But some are not ceramic. I suggest getting ceramic because they're better than just chrome coatings. I also say you should piece your exhaust together with the same brands but you can go with different brands if ball on a budget.
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Old 10-28-2013, 12:25 AM   #50
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I heard bbk Is junk is this true?

I think bbk makes a shorty catted h
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Old 10-28-2013, 12:33 AM   #51
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They have good rep as far as I'm aware.
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Old 10-28-2013, 01:25 AM   #52
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They'll get the job done. I have a throttle body of theirs and it works great. Never used there exhaust but was going to for a midpipe.
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:17 AM   #53
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Since this thread is already detailed.. What do you guys suggest is the best Long tube header/catted h Pipe for a 2004 GT? ..With the Flowmaster Back LOL!! ---------- Post added at 08:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:32 PM ---------- My cats are going bad and I need the catted h first. But am going to get the long tubes later on.
I'm sure you know this, but long tubes use a different size mid pipe, so essentially you'll be wasting money if you buy a normal sized h now..just gut your cats now or buy cheap hi flows..or weld in straight pipe if you don't have emission testing..
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:28 AM   #54
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Well that's why I wanna know what combo to get now so i can make sure it fits the LTs

How would it be a waste to get the shorty mid pipe now?
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:48 AM   #55
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Well that's why I wanna know what combo to get now so i can make sure it fits the LTs How would it be a waste to get the shorty mid pipe now?
Uhhhhh it won't fit with stock manifolds......you can't use it now.
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Old 10-28-2013, 08:04 AM   #56
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Well that's why I wanna know what combo to get now so i can make sure it fits the LTs How would it be a waste to get the shorty mid pipe now?
Because with the stock manifolds the midpipe is longer because the stock manifolds are shorter. Whereas the long tubes are well longer and the midpipe doesn't need to be so long to bolt up.
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Old 10-28-2013, 08:06 AM   #57
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How would a midpipe for shorties fit onto longtube headers? I mean why is that even a question?

If you get a catted mid for the stock manifolds now you'll have to re-buy again or have yours cut up and welded to fit the longtubes.

As for longtubes. BBK fits well but has one of the primaries like... flattened in a spot for the steering shaft. You can see it plain as day in pics online if you look. MACs don't have this, PYPES longtubes were terrible but apparently they got their S together after years of customers being like "wtf" and are good now. Those are stainless too and will last a long time. IIRC you do have to put a small ding in one of the primaries with a hammer to get the steering shaft through but that's par the course with longtubes. Kooks are the best ones hands down, it isn't even close. Fully stainless, best primary design, made in the USA out of high grade stainless. And $1000... You get what you pay for.
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Old 10-28-2013, 08:07 AM   #58
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Because with the stock manifolds the midpipe is longer because the stock manifolds are shorter. Whereas the long tubes are well longer and the midpipe doesn't need to be so long to bolt up.
Exactly. Also, they say use the same brand mid pipe for long tubes..so find the mid pipe you want and get that brand of long tubes. Or get a custom mid pipe made.
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Old 10-28-2013, 12:14 PM   #59
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Oh alright cool thanks for all the good info guys.

I don't known how hard it will be do gut the cats while they're on the car so I might just buy hi flows until I'm ready to do the LTs/midpipe all at once
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Old 10-28-2013, 01:39 PM   #60
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Got a long flathead screwdriver? Pull the factory midpipe off and go to town, it'll all fall out.

Honestly though, factory manifolds are not restrictive on the 4.6L like the old 5.0L, you really don't need to replace them. I mean you'll gain a little power but for the cost/trouble its not worth it, at least not IMO.
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:02 PM   #61
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Got a long flathead screwdriver? Pull the factory midpipe off and go to town, it'll all fall out.

Honestly though, factory manifolds are not restrictive on the 4.6L like the old 5.0L, you really don't need to replace them. I mean you'll gain a little power but for the cost/trouble its not worth it, at least not IMO.
But i think it's welded on so I would have to use a saws all to cut it off n than weld it back on.

Ugh that sounds like a pita
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Old 10-28-2013, 08:07 PM   #62
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The mid pipe should not be welded in. If it is go find the previous owner and kick him in the taint.

Flow tubes are welded in a stock app though.
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Old 10-28-2013, 08:40 PM   #63
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The mid pipe should not be welded in. If it is go find the previous owner and kick him in the taint.

Flow tubes are welded in a stock app though.
Well on the back it is welded idk if it is in the front. Ill check tomorrow
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Old 10-28-2013, 11:33 PM   #64
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Most likely the mufflers are welded to the midpipe
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Old 10-28-2013, 11:40 PM   #65
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Most likely the mufflers are welded to the midpipe
Hmm well that would be odd..
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Old 10-28-2013, 11:57 PM   #66
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Ill take a pic when it's day light so you guys can help me out k?

I've never worked on exhaust before. My brother usually does the work on my car while I watch help and learn lol sorry I don't know for sure
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Old 10-29-2013, 07:32 AM   #67
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Yeah we can help.
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Old 10-29-2013, 09:25 AM   #68
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I'm sure its the flowtubes welded to the mufflers that he is seeing. If the exhaust is stock that's how they are from the factory. There will be ball/socket joints further upstream from the mufflers where the mid pipe can be unbolted unless some idiot decided to weld that up. I have no clue why anyone would, they NEVER leak from that spot.
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Old 10-31-2013, 04:00 PM   #69
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Ok look I got the pics



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Ok so how do I go about this?
Hollow the cats or just a new midpipe?
I might even just leave the stock exhaust manifolds
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Old 10-31-2013, 04:01 PM   #70
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