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Old 01-15-2015, 06:04 PM   #281
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Hmm ok. I know that I've felt the whole car shake at idle for quite some time after I fixed that spark plug and then the shake seemed to go away. Guess I'll rent a compression tester as well
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Old 01-15-2015, 06:25 PM   #282
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The auto parts stores usually hsve "loaner" compression testers.

A quick and easy test is to disconnect the coil on the suspect cylinder and see if it makes it run much worse or if it runs about the same.
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Old 01-15-2015, 07:40 PM   #283
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If all else fails to figuring out why your car is running lean I have had wires pulled loose from the plug in and caused a shorts making my air fuel run 12.0-10.0 and less before. I checked my O2's and gently tugged the wires and two just pulled right out, I immediately replaced the sensor extensions and saw that it fixed my a/f. It was weird. Lol.


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Old 01-16-2015, 05:49 PM   #284
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Cyl. 6 spark plug, same cylinder that blew out the electrode. All the other cylinders look much better. Cyl.6 does look like it's soaked in fuel. It's possible that I'll do a compression test tonight. One of the perks of working for a shop is there's plenty of guys willing to show me how to diagnose these things. I'll report back as we go
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Old 01-16-2015, 06:04 PM   #285
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Is it not the injector
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Old 01-16-2015, 06:31 PM   #286
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Not sure yet, it was doing the same thing when I had the 19lb injectors in there so I don't think so. But that's on the list of things to test
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Old 01-16-2015, 07:36 PM   #287
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Well motor's probably toast. Compression test results
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Old 01-16-2015, 09:16 PM   #288
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Time for a swap?

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Old 01-16-2015, 09:23 PM   #289
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Oh snap....
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Old 01-16-2015, 09:31 PM   #290
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Hmmm.
It is that #6 cylinder. Well, it's most likely the valves so I suppose that the least expensive option to fix it would be to do a valve job. Or, this would be a good time for ported heads and cams.

That's a nice car JDF... I hope that you fix it and keep it.
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Old 01-16-2015, 11:26 PM   #291
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I agree with stray. Your car is very Nice. I'm sure whatever It's going to need is fixable.

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Old 01-17-2015, 12:02 AM   #292
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Time for a swap?

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Possibly but not likely





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Oh snap....



That's what I thought but it was more like a single word that started with the letter f


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Hmmm.
It is that #6 cylinder. Well, it's most likely the valves so I suppose that the least expensive option to fix it would be to do a valve job. Or, this would be a good time for ported heads and cams.

That's a nice car JDF... I hope that you fix it and keep it.
If it were the valves then that would be simple, I could get a new head and be on my way. But I'm not 100% convinced that's what the problem is.


I'll see if I can lay out what my thoughts are right now...
The car means a lot to me, it was my first purchase that felt permanent and like a car I would be proud to drive. It's been reliable and a great DD but lately I just feel like it's lacking something. I can't quite place my finger on it yet but I'm sure some of it has to do with a lot of my friends dropping out of the car game or everybody getting a brand new car to drive around in. It may also have to do with the fact that working on cara for a living is burning me out on my personal car.This car has been leaving something to be desired and lately I've just been getting tired of trying to do things to it, whether that's installing no parts or just maintaining it. I've found myself browsing Craigslist and forum classifieds more often to try and find something that catches my eye. Part of me really just wants to go out and buy a C5 Z06 or a brand new Focus ST and give up on Mustangs for a bit. But the other part of me still yearns for that fast Mustang, whether it's this one or another one.

The big issue I have right now is just finances. I don't have enough cash to plop down on a nice low mileage motor right now. I've got until the end of February to try and figure something out before my registration expires. The car is paid off so it's not hurting me by sitting, other than the fact that it is currently my only source of transportation. The other issue is I don't have the space at home or at work to pull the motor and have the car sit until I can rebuild it or replace it. So right now I need to weigh my options and decide a course of action. Theres a couple nice Mustangs on Craigslist right now that have kind of caught my eye and I honestly wouldn't mind checking them out. I'll keep you guys updated as I go and as always suggewtions, ideas and advice are welcome.
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Old 01-17-2015, 08:01 AM   #293
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You want the new 5.0 or a Corvette with a LS and I understand. Being one who has hung on the older project vehicles way to long I'm fond to say let it sit till income tax refund, well that never worked out for me, yet it may for you. It's all about what is the least amount of headaches and heart pangs....
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Old 01-17-2015, 11:57 AM   #294
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Pull out the dipstick and smell the oil. If it is the rings, or if there is a hole on top of the piston or something, the oil should have a strong odor of gasoline. You've been driving the car for a long time like this, you probably would have noticed a fuel smell in the oil if the loss of compression in that cylinder was due to a failure of the pistons or the rings.
The way that you can determine if it is the rings, is to pour about a tablespoon of oil into the cylinder and then do another compression test and see if the compression raises at all.
If someone at your shop has a Borescope, maybe they would let you borrow it to inspect the cylinder so that you can look at the top of the piston and check for any signs of damage.
It's entirely possible that you got lucky, and when the ground electrode broke off of that spark plug, it just damaged a valve, or valve seat, and the piston came out of it unscathed.
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Old 01-17-2015, 12:20 PM   #295
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Pull out the dipstick and smell the oil. If it is the rings, or if there is a hole on top of the piston or something, the oil should have a strong odor of gasoline. You've been driving the car for a long time like this, you probably would have noticed a fuel smell in the oil if the loss of compression in that cylinder was due to a failure of the pistons or the rings.
The way that you can determine if it is the rings, is to pour about a tablespoon of oil into the cylinder and then do another compression test and see if the compression raises at all.
If someone at your shop has a Borescope, maybe they would let you borrow it to inspect the cylinder so that you can look at the top of the piston and check for any signs of damage.
It's entirely possible that you got lucky, and when the ground electrode broke off of that spark plug, it just damaged a valve, or valve seat, and the piston came out of it unscathed.
Those are much of the same things my dad was telling me as well. I might be able to borrow my brothers old Jeep, so if that happens the heads can come off and I can get a really close look at everything. If it's just a valve or something then I may try and snag something like these. http://www.modularheadshop.com/Cylin...tockMOD-C.aspx
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Old 01-17-2015, 12:37 PM   #296
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Those heads look like a good deal!
And that would really wake up your engine. Hell, just getting it back to running on all eight cylinders again will make a big difference!

If you fix it, it will probably keep you from being bored with the car until at least the end of next summer...
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Old 01-17-2015, 12:55 PM   #297
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Those heads look like a good deal!
And that would really wake up your engine. Hell, just getting it back to running on all eight cylinders again will make a big difference!

If you fix it, it will probably keep you from being bored with the car until at least the end of next summer...
Is it sad that one of the first thoughts I had was "well that explains why I can't hit 14s". Buying that setup would depend entirely on what my tax return will look like though
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Old 01-17-2015, 01:07 PM   #298
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I was thinking the same thing... But I didn't want to say it!


If all else fails, just throw a FRPP head on it. It will still make a big difference in the way that the car runs. Or a machine shop can usually repair the valve seat and grind the valve on your existing head. Then its just new gaskets, new head bolts, maybe some new timing components (chains, tensioners, guides), and it will run as good as new!
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Old 01-17-2015, 01:41 PM   #299
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I was thinking the same thing... But I didn't want to say it!


If all else fails, just throw a FRPP head on it. It will still make a big difference in the way that the car runs. Or a machine shop can usually repair the valve seat and grind the valve on your existing head. Then its just new gaskets, new head bolts, maybe some new timing components (chains, tensioners, guides), and it will run as good as new!
Yeah that's the cheap option right now. Another thought I tossed around was trying to find a NPI short block and getting some PI heads if I need a while motor
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Old 01-18-2015, 12:46 AM   #300
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I was just looking at those heads the other day on mhs. They are a good deal especially if you upgrade to a different cam as well. Still 2k though That's Why I'm still shopping around for some slightly used PI heads then swap the cams.

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Old 01-18-2015, 01:20 AM   #301
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Yeah definitely. The cam option is the only reason I considered them. These might also be an option
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Old 01-18-2015, 01:40 PM   #302
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I will have to check those out too. Looks interesting.

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Old 01-18-2015, 01:47 PM   #303
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Yeah that was the same thought I had
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Old 01-18-2015, 02:08 PM   #304
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JDF's Build Thread

For the fully assembled stage 2 head combo with a stage 1 NA cam option and GT/ Shelby followers from modular head shop it's only a couple hundred more than unprepared trick flows. I bet they flow nearly as well as trick flow also.


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Old 01-18-2015, 03:11 PM   #305
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Yeah and the Trick Flow heads wouldn't have cams either
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Old 01-19-2015, 09:33 AM   #306
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Well motor's probably toast. Compression test results

Damn! Sorry man!


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Old 01-19-2015, 10:30 AM   #307
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Damn! Sorry man!


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It's sucks, but we'll see if I can make something good of it
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Old 01-20-2015, 09:14 PM   #308
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Well I got a Borescope on it today, no signs of damage to the pistons are cylinder walls. Gonna try and install new heads and see where that gets me. Now I just need to decide what heads I wanna do.
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Old 01-21-2015, 12:41 AM   #309
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Well that's a relief!


Sucks that this is a "forced mod" but at least you're not pulling off perfectly functional heads to swap them for more performance.
This is the rare "Justifiable Mod"!
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Old 01-21-2015, 07:31 AM   #310
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Now if only I could get that through my parents heads. They don't understand my desire to upgrade heads at the same time. I may just toss one new head on it and save a good chunk of change so that I can put it towards something else
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Old 01-21-2015, 10:35 AM   #311
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If you don't think that you are going to keep the car for a long while, I would tend to agree with them. Just fix the cylinder and skip the heads and cams.
Including all of the "small" parts, a tune, and shipping, your looking at somewhere close to three grand to swap heads/cams. If that head is easily repairable, you can probably get it back to running good for less than $500.
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Old 01-21-2015, 10:47 AM   #312
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Yeah that's kind of what I'm leaning towards right now. One of the guys I work with has a set of heads laying around from when he built a motor for one of his friends. Hopefully I can get those for cheap.

I was gonna plan on doing my intake manifold gaskets, fuel injector o-rings, valve cover gaskets, possibly timing chains and tensioners, serpentine belt, spark plugs, and head gaskets
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Old 01-21-2015, 12:40 PM   #313
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Gonna score a set of Windsor heads for $200 from a coworker
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Old 01-21-2015, 04:06 PM   #314
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Nice! Money left over for cams! Lol.

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Old 01-21-2015, 04:45 PM   #315
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If only. My return is either gonna go towards paying off the rest of my student loans or getting a new driveshaft that fits and a catback that isn't welded together.

I'm thinking off selling the Bassani x-pipe, the 24lb injectors, and my catback. But the catback won't happen until I get a new one to replace it.
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