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Old 11-19-2013, 06:37 PM   #1
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1998 GT pi+cam swap opinons

Alright so I'm leaving for basic training in March. I am gathering parts for my father to install while I'm gone. I already have a cam set up but am looking for opinions on everything that needs to be changed or upgraded during the swap. Ik the cams a going to be a VERY tight fit without notching the pistons. Please let me know what you guys think about my plan and setup thanks


1998 mustang GT

Current Mods:
Stock motor with 162k
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Baseline dyno 225hp/293tq

Before tune mods:
Pi intake 2001
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Non essential mods:

Off road x pipe
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Old 11-20-2013, 06:57 AM   #2
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Get pistons with the notches for the valves since our cars get a bump in compression and to avoid ptv. Also if your gonna change pistons may i suggest build the bottom end forged crank rods and pistons all that good stuff. Doesn't add power but sure as hell adds durability and allows for more power later
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1996 Mustang GT, 17x9 front and 17x10.5 cobra r replica rims, 255/40/17 front 285/40/17 rear at the moment,
o/r x-pipe flow master 40 series dump downs, cai/ram intake, 75mm c&l throttle body and plenum, pi heads and intake swap, msd wires, stock gears, untuned at the moment, no dyno numbers for now.
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Old 11-20-2013, 08:05 AM   #3
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You sure you are going to be coming back to the states or going to a place you can take your car?

I've been down this road, I am active military. You may want to hold off on dropping a bunch of money on this car till afterwards. And if you are reserve/guard and guaranteed to come back home then it might be a differnet story but I'd still wait.
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Old 11-20-2013, 10:24 AM   #4
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I'm Air Guard so I'll be back.
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Old 11-20-2013, 10:31 AM   #5
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1996mustang, how much do you think building up the short block would cost? And the short block would be needed to be disassembled to notch the pistons, correct? A motor build was def on my list but I planned on it later down the road, so I'm not sure.
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Old 11-20-2013, 12:17 PM   #6
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Having a shop do it all like MMR? Around 4k IIRC but look at their MMR600/1000/whatever shortblocks on the website.

For a super budget build?

-Re-use your stock block
-$250 for bore/hone
-$200 shipped for Boss rods
-$600 for a good set of forged pistons
-Re-use your crank provided you aren't spinning past 6500 regularly
-ARP studs/other hardware/gaskets/water pump/bearings figure $600-$800

This is also assuming you have a good set of tools, torque wrenches, a clean shop to work in, a good hoist to pull it all out and a stand to work on. Most of that stuff can be got at Harbor Freight cheap and there are always ppl at flea markets selling broken Craftsman stuff for next to nothing which you can take to Sears and have replaced with new.

And I would still wait. Depending on your bonus and how much you can save while at BMT/Tech school you might decide to go a different route.

You also come back with a different mindset which nobody ever seems to take into account. Some guys are back to "normal" pretty quick, some are very different. Some come back with a pregnant Tech School wife lol.

Don't come back with a pregnant girl you met in Tech School...
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Old 11-20-2013, 12:19 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Having a shop do it all like MMR? Around 4k IIRC but look at their MMR600/1000/whatever shortblocks on the website. For a super budget build? -Re-use your stock block -$250 for bore/hone -$200 shipped for Boss rods -$600 for a good set of forged pistons -Re-use your crank provided you aren't spinning past 6500 regularly -ARP studs/other hardware/gaskets/water pump/bearings figure $600-$800 This is also assuming you have a good set of tools, torque wrenches, a clean shop to work in, a good hoist to pull it all out and a stand to work on. Most of that stuff can be got at Harbor Freight cheap and there are always ppl at flea markets selling broken Craftsman stuff for next to nothing which you can take to Sears and have replaced with new.
would recommend this kind of budget build for my year car Scotty??
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Old 11-20-2013, 12:21 PM   #8
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would recommend this kind of budget build for my year car Scotty??
Its what I'm doing to my 2V. Basic MMR forged pistons/Boss 302 rods and a stock crank is going to be good for more power than most ppl will make. I plan on spinning mine higher than 7k RPM but I got a forged crank.
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Old 11-20-2013, 12:25 PM   #9
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Its what I'm doing to my 2V. Basic MMR forged pistons/Boss 302 rods and a stock crank is going to be good for more power than most ppl will make. I plan on spinning mine higher than 7k RPM but I got a forged crank.
rods from what year boss 302?
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Old 11-20-2013, 12:25 PM   #10
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The Coyote.
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Old 11-20-2013, 12:30 PM   #11
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The Coyote.
ah I see. Cool. How far over would you bore the block? Would you need different pistons after that?
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Old 11-20-2013, 12:38 PM   #12
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I'm going to leave mine stock bore if I can.

You get whatever size piston you need.
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Old 11-20-2013, 01:11 PM   #13
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Wow I didn't know how much of a budget you could do a build on. Here are my cams specs .560/.575 lift, 225/235 .050" duration, 108 LSA. Would it be a lot more power to notch the pistons? Also how much would head porting cost? And is it fine to take it to a local machine shop to have them ported?
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Old 11-20-2013, 02:06 PM   #14
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More power to notch the pistons?? I know we all had to start somewhere but you need to learn basic engine building or take yours to a shop before you tear into it.
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Old 11-20-2013, 02:19 PM   #15
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Piston with the notches on them are to prevent valve being bent by the piston specially if you go stage 2 cams. You have to consider a pi head swap raises our compression due to lower deck height also means valves would touch pistons depending on the cam lobes or brand as well. Its to prevent engine going from start to boom in layman terms. I agree with scotty you may wanna take the time and sit down and read what all is involved in building motors. Not to put u down or anything its just some advice since we here all have been down this road as well not knowing much or any but wanting to do alot. Also agree with scotty.......dont get a tech girl prego. Just makes it bad joo joo. Seen it happen to many shipmates
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1996 Mustang GT, 17x9 front and 17x10.5 cobra r replica rims, 255/40/17 front 285/40/17 rear at the moment,
o/r x-pipe flow master 40 series dump downs, cai/ram intake, 75mm c&l throttle body and plenum, pi heads and intake swap, msd wires, stock gears, untuned at the moment, no dyno numbers for now.
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Old 11-20-2013, 02:21 PM   #16
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Scotty I know how engines work... I'm saying with valve reliefs in the pistons I could degree the cam and allow the cam to reach its full potential. From what I've heard my cams are going to need to be degreed for valve Clearance not optimum power. Correct?
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Old 11-20-2013, 02:27 PM   #17
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Ok I was hoping you didn't mean literally notch them for more power but some of the ppl on here...

You degree them to install them correctly. Obviously you can ****** or advance them but any aftermarket piston should have reliefs to be able to install your cams "straight up".
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