Clutch cable problems or fork maybe? - Mustang Evolution

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Old 11-21-2013, 07:50 PM   #1
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Clutch cable problems or fork maybe?

Ok so I'll try to describe the problem as best as possible. While driving I was bring my foot off the floor and hit the pedal and accidentally pulled the pedal towards me when this happened I heard a extremely loud pop, first thought was the cable but it still engages the clutch and I'm able to shift gears but the pedal releases closer to the floor than it use to and it is a dramatic change from where it use to release at. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 11-21-2013, 07:56 PM   #2
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That's how you adjust the stock clutch. No reason to worry.
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Old 11-21-2013, 07:58 PM   #3
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Haha. You inadvertently adjusted the cable quadrant. What you "accidentally" did is the procedure to adjust it.
Go do it again only this time push it very slowly to the floor after lifting up on it.
That's it!
The clutch is adjusted...
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Old 11-21-2013, 09:23 PM   #4
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[QUOTE="04gtdriver85;1868990"]Ok so I'll try to describe the problem as best as possible. While driving I was bring my foot off the floor and hit the pedal and accidentally pulled the pedal towards me when this happened I heard a extremely loud pop, first thought was the cable but it still engages the clutch and I'm able to shift gears but the pedal releases closer to the floor than it use to and it is a dramatic change from where it use to release at. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.[/QUOTE


Look at the cable top to bottom and see of it's torn
I just went through this ..

It's not your quadrant because my GT busted that and it's pretty noticeable

I say 9/10 it's your cable I just went through this
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Old 11-21-2013, 10:51 PM   #5
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Well looked at both ends quadrant looks good cable doesn't look messed up and same thing on the fork side too I really hope that's it because visually it looks fine
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Old 11-21-2013, 11:01 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04gtdriver85 View Post
Well looked at both ends quadrant looks good cable doesn't look messed up and same thing on the fork side too I really hope that's it because visually it looks fine
Video ?
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Old 11-21-2013, 11:35 PM   #7
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Already put the cover back on and it's late I'll try soon tho
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Old 11-22-2013, 12:11 AM   #8
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Already put the cover back on and it's late I'll try soon tho
Well, when you get a chance, take the cable off and send it to Slow4v so that he can inspect it...

You'll be fine OP. What you heard was the quadrant ratcheting.
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Old 11-22-2013, 02:33 AM   #9
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Well, when you get a chance, take the cable off and send it to Slow4v so that he can inspect it... You'll be fine OP. What you heard was the quadrant ratcheting.
So your saying it's nothing ? When he clearly is stating that it's not engaging correctly , and is not normal..

I'm not very smart but that clearly is something NOT right, something is causing it to happen, it wouldn't of popped for nothing ,
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Old 11-22-2013, 02:39 AM   #10
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So your saying it's nothing ? When he clearly is stating that it's not engaging correctly , and is not normal..

I'm not very smart but that clearly is something NOT right, something is causing it to happen, it wouldn't of popped for nothing ,
Yes.
That is precisely what I'm saying...
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Old 11-22-2013, 09:09 AM   #11
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He's saying its not normal from what he was used to. That's because its engaging way higher up now. If he wants to go back to how it was he needs to get a firewall adjuster and probably should get an aftermarket quadrant too (I recommend MM). But there is only so far out you can go before the tension comes off the fork and the clutch pedal starts to get slop.
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Old 11-22-2013, 11:16 AM   #12
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Yes my clutch still works I can still shift just fine no grinding or any noise. It's like I said in the original post it is just releases and engages in a completely different spot. The more I think about it the pedal feels more like what it use to before I change the clutch. I never knew tho that that is how you adjust a cable clutch

---------- Post added at 12:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:14 PM ----------

And as far as cable and quadrants is B&M not a good brand or is MM just your personal preference?
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Old 11-22-2013, 12:01 PM   #13
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MM is better simply because it mimics the stock quadrant radius (I've had other brands that don't and the release/engagement can be wonky and it puts a ton of pressure on the clutch fingers) and the flat of the MM quadrant lets the cable sit square vs some others that have the end of the cable bent. This puts a pressure point on the cable which will eventually wear it out sooner.

As for cables, NEVER install a non OEM cable NEVER. I don't care if you get a brand new aftermarket cable for free you'll get binding, it could snap on you and it won't be as smooth. If you have an OEM cable its likely still good, the OEM ones last a long time.

edit: You will see a ton of MM nutswingers on multiple forums who just recycle info and tout how great they are and if you get a UPR K member or a Team Z brace etc... you are wasting your money because MM is the best. In this case having used a bunch of different quadrants, the MM is the only one I've ever used that totally mimics the stock pedal feel.

edit 2: You WILL have to use a firewall adjuster with any aftermarket quadrant and in this case I would get the Fiore micro click quadrant. Takes 0 effort to turn it and it locks into place firmly each time it clicks. If that makes sense...
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Old 11-22-2013, 12:28 PM   #14
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Haven't really played with the idea on changing the quadrant out and getting a firewall adjuster mainly because I don't have a performance clutch. Of course not really going to lie but I don't full under stand why you need one unless you are doing so racing and what not still kinda green on some of these parts.
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Old 11-22-2013, 12:30 PM   #15
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Honestly I also ran the stock one in my 95 Cobra for years with no issue. If the stock one is still fine and the car is just a DD I'd leave it and call it a day.
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Old 11-22-2013, 12:45 PM   #16
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Good deal. What's your thoughts on gears I have some noise on coming from the rear and I changed from stock 3.27 to 4.11 and now I want to go back down to either 3.73 or 3.55 but I don't have a pinion depth gauge or any of those special tools I hear about are the 100% needed or is there a trick.
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Old 11-22-2013, 12:58 PM   #17
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Special tools are needed to do it right. If there is noise coming from the rear your installed ****ed up, they should be silent.

I would not go below 3.73s on a NA modular which is what mine is. I will be going down to 3.55s or maybe even 3.31s when I eventually put forced induction to it though.
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Old 11-22-2013, 01:02 PM   #18
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Well the install was done well over 2 yrs but I was low on fluid one time so I'm pretty sure that's what made it bite the dust
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Old 11-22-2013, 05:10 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04gtdriver85 View Post
Good deal. What's your thoughts on gears I have some noise on coming from the rear and I changed from stock 3.27 to 4.11 and now I want to go back down to either 3.73 or 3.55 but I don't have a pinion depth gauge or any of those special tools I hear about are the 100% needed or is there a trick.
3:73

3:55 if your supercharged
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