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Old 11-28-2013, 06:24 PM   #36
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The Bullitts came with the intake and twin cobra throttle body
You can put whatever parts on that motor but it's still going to be a 2V motor , tbh
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Old 11-28-2013, 06:33 PM   #37
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Old 11-28-2013, 07:28 PM   #38
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330rwhp ^
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Old 11-28-2013, 08:45 PM   #39
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You can put whatever parts on that motor but it's still going to be a 2V motor , tbh
That's why I said I'm going to mod it till it goes then swap it. I acknowledge that the 2v is a turd, but I'm not going to swap it if I don't need to. So might as well mod it while I've got it.
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Old 11-28-2013, 09:10 PM   #40
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Since you understand that you're not going to be happy with the gains from bolt ons. I would focus on killing subarus and 370z's at the autox(suspension).
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Old 11-28-2013, 09:46 PM   #41
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Since you understand that you're not going to be happy with the gains from bolt ons. I would focus on killing subarus and 370z's at the autox(suspension).
I'll definitely do suspension also, I just feel like the car should have a little more get up and go. Then work on suspension. They will both get done though.
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Old 11-28-2013, 09:48 PM   #42
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I'll definitely do suspension also, I just feel like the car should have a little more get up and go. Then work on suspension. They will both get done though.
what kind if suspension mods do you have in mind for the future?
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Old 11-28-2013, 09:51 PM   #43
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what kind if suspension mods do you have in mind for the future?
Springs, better subframes, control arms, better away bars, Panhard bar. Some other stuff.
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Old 12-01-2013, 03:03 PM   #44
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Ok so my rear right side sits higher than my other sides (more wheel gap)... And it seems like the wheels are shifted slightly to the right. Any ideas?
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Old 12-01-2013, 03:25 PM   #45
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Ok so my rear right side sits higher than my other sides (more wheel gap)... And it seems like the wheels are shifted slightly to the right. Any ideas?
by shifted, do you mean more of a tilted wheel? Or do you mean like the axle has shifted?
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Old 12-01-2013, 03:38 PM   #46
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Are you lowered?
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Old 12-01-2013, 04:00 PM   #47
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by shifted, do you mean more of a tilted wheel? Or do you mean like the axle has shifted?
The axle. At least it looks like it because there is more wheel gap. I know it can't be the frame because the car has never been in any major accident.

---------- Post added at 02:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:59 PM ----------

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Are you lowered?
Stock Bullitt springs w/ isolators removed.
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Old 12-01-2013, 04:14 PM   #48
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The axle. At least it looks like it because there is more wheel gap. I know it can't be the frame because the car has never been in any major accident. ---------- Post added at 02:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:59 PM ---------- Stock Bullitt springs w/ isolators removed.
well i know a good whack on a curb can do that. I've just never heard of BOTH axles shifting. Normally it's the rear, because its normally what takes a hit the most often.
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Old 12-01-2013, 04:20 PM   #49
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Its just the rear.......

And i think i've already figured it out. I know some other people that had an issue like this, its just an unaligned axle. A panhard bar will fix it, as for the wheel gap, its probably the driver side sagging from worn shocks or struts, instead of the passenger side being lifted. Guess its time to upgrade.
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Old 12-01-2013, 04:43 PM   #50
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Perfect excuse to start on a sweet setup. Good luck man.
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Old 12-02-2013, 01:22 AM   #51
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Perfect excuse to start on a sweet setup. Good luck man.
That's what I was thinking so I made out a plan
1. Subframe connectors.
2. Panhard bar
3. Torque arm
4. Heavy duty away bars
5. Coilovers.

And of course the little things will be thrown in as they are needed.
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Old 12-02-2013, 01:30 AM   #52
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What kind of sfc wed in ones?
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Old 12-02-2013, 01:41 AM   #53
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What kind of sfc wed in ones?
I'm probably going to get everything Maximum Motorsports, it's best to keep everything one brand and they are a great brand. So the full length weld in SFCs from them.
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Old 12-02-2013, 01:42 AM   #54
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That's what I was thinking so I made out a plan
1. Subframe connectors.
2. Panhard bar
3. Torque arm
4. Heavy duty away bars
5. Coilovers.

And of course the little things will be thrown in as they are needed.
I'd start with the front sway bar and leave the rear alone. You might try just replacing the front sway bar bushings and see how you like it. Our cars have a tubular (hollow) front sway bar that's comparatively light, offsetting some of the weight of the heavy intake manifold off of the front of the car.
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Old 12-02-2013, 01:44 AM   #55
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I'd start with the front sway bar and leave the rear alone. You might try just replacing the front sway bar bushings and see how you like it. Our cars have a tubular (hollow) front sway bar that's comparatively light, offsetting some of the weight of the heavy intake manifold off of the front of the car.
That's the thing, my rear needs adjusting. So that's why I decided to start there.
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Old 12-02-2013, 01:47 AM   #56
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That's the thing, my rear needs adjusting. So that's why I decided to start there.
I meant the sway bars.
The torque arm and panhard bar... GOOD STUFF!!!
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Old 12-03-2013, 01:09 AM   #57
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Alright, so this turns out to be a decent job. I should be able to have the panhard bar and subframes around January, so that means I have the torque arm left. Throw some more ideas at me for suspension. I want to kill some subies at autocross.

I know I'll need LCAs, maybe some tubular A arms?
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Old 12-03-2013, 01:34 AM   #58
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If you need any help with the installs im down to help
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Old 12-03-2013, 01:50 AM   #59
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If you need any help with the installs im down to help
Can you weld subframes? And do you have ramps to drive the car on since it needs full weight on the car when installing? You will save me a bunch or $$$ if you do.
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Old 12-03-2013, 01:54 AM   #60
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Iv never welded sfc but i cam weld and i have jack stands and a jack we would be able to get it up in the air
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Old 12-03-2013, 01:55 AM   #61
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Iv never welded sfc but i cam weld and i have jack stands and a jack we would be able to get it up in the air
Needs to be on its wheels with the full weight of the car on the suspension, otherwise the chassis will be bent when installing them, then it all bad.
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Old 12-03-2013, 01:58 AM   #62
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Well we could put the jack stands under the rear axle and on the lca
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Old 12-03-2013, 02:00 AM   #63
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Well we could put the jack stands under the rear axle and on the lca
You have ramps for the front? That might work.

It needs to be as level as possible also
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Old 12-03-2013, 02:07 AM   #64
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I dont have any ramps but im sure we could improvise haha
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Old 12-03-2013, 02:09 AM   #65
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Hmmm, I really want to but since it's being welded to the underbody I really want to make sure it's done right..... If we could find something that works then maybe.

Cinder blocks? Lol
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Old 12-03-2013, 02:14 AM   #66
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Yeah i understand i was thinking we could just take some measurements before and after to make sure its the same and ha i was thinking about that... I got a few of those haha
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Old 12-03-2013, 02:17 AM   #67
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Yeah i understand i was thinking we could just take some measurements before and after to make sure its the same and ha i was thinking about that... I got a few of those haha
I don't see why we couldn't stack my car on cinder blocks lol.
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Old 12-03-2013, 02:26 AM   #68
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Haha the only problem wen you jack the car up the tires pull under the car im not sure if that will affect the what the body flexs

---------- Post added at 12:26 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:24 AM ----------

Oh wait i have some alignment pads that should get the car sitting at ride hight
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Old 12-03-2013, 02:30 AM   #69
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Hmmmmmmm
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Old 12-03-2013, 03:34 AM   #70
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He we could get it to work and if it doesnt then i can just go get a set from my work
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