98 GT Clock Ticking Sound - Mustang Evolution

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Old 12-17-2013, 09:07 PM   #1
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Question 98 GT Clock Ticking Sound

First, I've never heard this ticking sound until after I got my catback install from the shop I went. The guy who drove in my car had the Clutch Pedal and Gas Pedal push down and started the vehicle. REVED it all the way! Told him he's gonna blow my motor up and he just nodded.


I'll post a video as soon as I can.
Sounds like a clock ticking from the Engine Bay. I can hear it when i'm going around 20-30 mph but after that I cannot. I feel no lost of power or sluggish. I've just had a recent oil change as well. New PCV Valve included.

Looked around Google and some say it could be an Exhaust Leak, bent rod?, lifters, etc.

Edited: Don't know what has been done to the car but the Motor has almost 190K Miles on it.
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Old 12-17-2013, 10:29 PM   #2
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Most likely sounds like an exhaust leak since you said that it started after having exhaust work done. Does it go away after everything is heated up?
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Old 12-18-2013, 10:50 AM   #3
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Exhaust leak, take it back and make them fix it and if that guy tries that **** again don't just sit there and let him do it. Its YOUR car, if he's too stupid to let an engine properly warm up before taking it to redline he should not be touching a lawnmower let alone a car. I'd have reached over and yanked the keys out of the igniton and went straight to the manager if it was me. Although if it was me I would not let a shop be touching my car unless it was a body shop to fix crash damage or do frame work.
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Old 12-18-2013, 11:10 AM   #4
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happened to me, went through 2 diff kinds of gaskets, look at these, haven't heard a tick since putting these on, can get them at auto zone.

Mr. Gasket Aluminum Exhaust Gaskets - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS
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Old 12-18-2013, 11:36 AM   #5
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Yeah the dead soft aluminum ones are the way to go. You also need to retorque the header bolts each heat cycle for 2-3 cycles after you get headers done. Unless you use stage 8 bolts anyway which is what I've ALWAYS used when I do headers. Proper torque values are important too and I'd be willing to bet a yahoo who just guns a cold motor didn't use a torque wrench.

Ugh I hate shops... HATE shops... I've taken the blue car to a shop for subframes, that's IT. And that shop has a ridiculously good reputation.
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Old 12-18-2013, 11:38 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Yeah the dead soft aluminum ones are the way to go. You also need to retorque the header bolts each heat cycle for 2-3 cycles after you get headers done. Unless you use stage 8 bolts anyway which is what I've ALWAYS used when I do headers. Proper torque values are important too and I'd be willing to bet a yahoo who just guns a cold motor didn't use a torque wrench.

Ugh I hate shops... HATE shops... I've taken the blue car to a shop for subframes, that's IT. And that shop has a ridiculously good reputation.
yeah! I deff recommend the soft alum. ones!! I only took mine for tranny rebuild and the shift kit and stall.
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Old 12-18-2013, 11:57 PM   #7
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Haven't got around to a video. Been at work. Noticed the noise only when I start the car cold and when I drive 20 miles and the noise goes away. Warm engine and sitting at idle I don't hear it.
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Old 12-19-2013, 07:24 AM   #8
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Yeah because the heat is expanding wherever the leak is and its sealing itself up. Might be as simple as the jackass didn't want to tighten the collector bolts all the way, would not be the first time some yutz mechanic didn't want to mess with that nut on the passenger side...
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Old 12-19-2013, 07:58 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Yeah because the heat is expanding wherever the leak is and its sealing itself up. Might be as simple as the jackass didn't want to tighten the collector bolts all the way, would not be the first time some yutz mechanic didn't want to mess with that nut on the passenger side...
x2!!!
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