Engine knocking/shuttering at low RPMs - Mustang Evolution

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Old 01-22-2014, 04:07 PM   #1
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Engine knocking/shuttering at low RPMs

So about two months ago I blew a spark plug on my 98 GT. It has a PI swap and the engine has barely 50k on the odometer.

I got the head TIme-Serted (dont think that's a word) by a machinist that I trust, as he drilled and tapped the coolant crossover on the intake manifold to accomodate the 98's extra temperture sensor.

Well I got the car back a month ago and it was running really crappy at first. My guess was that it was bad fuel for sitting so long. I put new injectors and good gas in the car, it runs better, but at high RPMs it still seems like it is very slightly missing on a cylinder (I can tell by the sound of the car and it seems to be making a bit less power).

Now the main concern I just noticed while taking it out the other night, as that at low RPMs the car kind of shutters/groans. It is mainly below 1500 RPMs or so, and seems to be most obvious in 1st and 2nd gear. It almost sounds like a very subtle knock. I also notice that while doing a slight peel out it made a knocking type noise.

The worst thing is that every once in a while, it makes a really really loud knock on startup, even when it's warm. I'm talking like, it shakes the car. It only knocks on the first couple of cylinder fires of the startup, so it lasts maybe 2-3 seconds, 3-5 loud knocks.

Any idea of what it could be? This all started when the plug blewout. I sincerely appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks,
DutchManDann
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Old 01-22-2014, 05:11 PM   #2
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Can you post a video? Could be anything from detonation to a bent valve. Did the blow out happen with the PI swap on or before?
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Old 01-22-2014, 06:35 PM   #3
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Engine knocking/shuttering at low RPMs

I'll try to get a video tonight or tomorrow. Not sure if the camera will pick up the groaning but it'll definitely pick up the knock.

The blowout happened just a couple months ago on the PI engine.
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Old 01-23-2014, 07:50 AM   #4
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Hmmm... maybe check your timing chains to see if they are loose rattling? That's the only thing I can think of that it MIGHT be besides an issue with the rotating assembly or something damaged in the valvetrain. May be a good time to start looking for a 4V swap motor or a newer PI longblock. If you get a PI longblock and can afford the extra $$$ I'd go with the 02-05 Explorer for the WAP.
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Old 01-23-2014, 02:02 PM   #5
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Sounds like internals damaged

Wouldn't be able to tell unless I see the car in person
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Old 01-24-2014, 09:55 PM   #6
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I'm thinking it's something wrong with the timing as you guys have said. I don't know why the timing would suddenly be off but regardless, it doesn't seem consistent enough to be a mechanical issue. This isn't anything like the ticking my old engine made (when I had a spun bearing).

So I'm crossing my fingers and hoping it's a coil or timing or something else electrical.

I'm gonna bring it to my dad's shop's mechanic on Friday to see what he thinks.
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Old 01-24-2014, 11:09 PM   #7
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Most likely you need to do a timing chain, guide, tensioner replacement. The ticking is likely caused by a worn out tensioner. Or could be a broken chain guide. They are plastic.
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Old 01-25-2014, 12:19 AM   #8
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It's not a ticking noise. I've had a ticking and I spent a good year and a half diagnosing it and trying to fix it.

It's not the timing chain or tensioner, that's for sure. Engine has less than 50k miles anyways the tensioner should be good for at least another 50k
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Old 01-25-2014, 07:34 AM   #9
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Engine built doesn't mean anything

They probably did a crappy job installing everything.
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Old 01-25-2014, 10:46 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow4V View Post
Engine built doesn't mean anything

They probably did a crappy job installing everything.
In my experience half the shops/installers/mechanics out there are complete ****.
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Old 02-04-2014, 12:36 AM   #11
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Well I just took the car out for the first time in about a month, and did some real driving. After work I just drove around for about an hour and a half, on highways and backroads.

At first it was still sputtering at low RPMS, but it wasn't making the knock noise at startup. After my little date with the car, she is purring. Running just fine.

Im not sure if it was just the computer trying to sort things out (after sitting for a while with a dead battery) or some other ECU related thing, but it is running as good as ever now.
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3.73 gears, Auburn LSD, TA diff cover, MM FLSFCs, Ford Strut Tower Brace, J&M SS Brake Lines, and a lot of visual/restoration work.
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Old 02-04-2014, 01:28 AM   #12
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Dead battery will cause the computer to loose all its calibrations.
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Old 02-04-2014, 08:12 AM   #13
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See if its throwing any new codes. And definitely go over it again and make SURE everything is hooked up. When they did the timesert they would have had to remove a bunch of stuff including electrical. Could be as simple as they forgot to hook an injector plug back up to the injector or a plug wire isn't seated all the way or some other craziness.
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Old 02-05-2014, 03:53 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfore33 View Post
Dead battery will cause the computer to loose all its calibrations.
Yep I am thinking that is what happened on this one. The car has gone about 4 months with very little use, and the battery died from sitting so long each time. The computers on these cars seem really moody lol especially the theft system.

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
See if its throwing any new codes. And definitely go over it again and make SURE everything is hooked up. When they did the timesert they would have had to remove a bunch of stuff including electrical. Could be as simple as they forgot to hook an injector plug back up to the injector or a plug wire isn't seated all the way or some other craziness.
Im going to check what codes it is throwing at the moment, although I am pretty sure it is going to just be the same old code that has something to do with the purge valve/charcoal canister.

And that is actually one of the first things I did when I upgraded the injectors, I looked through each loom to see if there was anything unplugged. I didn't see anything but it is worth a shot looking through it again to be 100% positive. This is why I hate getting my car worked on by other people lol
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