Mustang GT's first tune up. How did I do so far? - Mustang Evolution

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Old 01-31-2014, 12:47 PM   #1
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Mustang GT's first tune up. How did I do so far?

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Got the 8 spark plugs, 8 boots, and anti seize. Is that all right?

My next issue is installing them. My motor isn't factory...
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Old 01-31-2014, 12:59 PM   #2
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Old 01-31-2014, 01:00 PM   #3
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Well you might want to invest in an in/lb torque wrench so that those spark plugs don't decide to leave their home in the future
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Old 01-31-2014, 01:06 PM   #4
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Whatchu talkin' bout Willis?

Speak to me slowly... I work on guns not cars. I'm trying. >.<
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Old 01-31-2014, 01:20 PM   #5
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Threads are sensitive. Torque to get it perfect


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Old 01-31-2014, 01:22 PM   #6
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http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...e-spec.451180/

These spark plugs tend to strip the threads and blow them out of the head if you over torque them.
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Old 01-31-2014, 02:26 PM   #7
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Good news is the cop's are flexible, so you might have enough clearance under those fuel rails. You'll also want to remove your cai to the TB, possibly to the spacer to get clearance there. A 1/4 ratchet and jointed extension goes along way too.
+1 on the torque wrench. You don't want a blow out after all you're mods.

Also off topic, but do you work for manufacturer? Range? Or something like that? And you're in south fla correct?
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Old 01-31-2014, 02:41 PM   #8
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Well damn. Gotta get me a torque wrench then. 12lbs should be safe with the anti-seize.


I work at a gun shop and at a warehouse. Yes. In Miami, Florida. And hell no, not Taurus.




Also, the crap I need to get out of the way to install these bad boys.. should I worry? Or just be very careful?
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Old 01-31-2014, 04:16 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Well damn. Gotta get me a torque wrench then. 12lbs should be safe with the anti-seize.


I work at a gun shop and at a warehouse. Yes. In Miami, Florida. And hell no, not Taurus.




Also, the crap I need to get out of the way to install these bad boys.. should I worry? Or just be very careful?
Lmao! I was hoping it wasnt Taurus....lol

I work at a dealer in the tampa bay area.

Don't be too worried. But get used to doing it...lol
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Old 01-31-2014, 06:13 PM   #10
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Change fluids, clean/replace air filter, change spark plugs, and fuel filter is all there really is to a tune-up on fuel injected cars.
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Old 01-31-2014, 10:39 PM   #11
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If using anti-seize (not suggested in the shop manual) you want to make them a bit tighter, 14 to 15 lb·ft--these are "plugs" not fasteners.

The BIG thing is that they be tightened enough so as to not back out, not that they be tightened to provide optimal clamping strength; which would be 106 Nm, or 78 lb·ft, for a 14 mm fastener.

Use a 1/4" drive torque wrench (14 lb·ft is 168 lb·in) or a 3/8" drive wrench. No 1/2" drive wrench will be sufficiently accurate at 14 lb·ft.

Or get a torque limiting spark plug socket:



I got one last year and have not used a torque wrench on GT plugs since then...
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Old 02-01-2014, 08:53 AM   #12
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I'm getting anxious now.
Don't want to mess it up.

So do I screw them in all the way without the torque wrench, then put them in tight with the torque wrench to 14-15 lbs?
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Old 02-01-2014, 10:01 AM   #13
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OK, to change the plugs 110% properly (which is important on these engines) here is whay you need:
  • An extra deep 5/8" plug socket, like this from Advance Auto;

    The advantage of the extra deep socket is that it is less likely to "cock" in the plug well; which can break stubborn plugs when removing them, and sometimes crossthread new plugs on installation.

  • 3/8" drive "wobble" extensions, 3" and 6" are all that's needed or get a set they are cheap;

    Using wobble extensions with the deep socket makes removing/installing the rear plugs (cylinders 4 and 8) quite a bit easier.

  • A 3/8" drive ratchet or breaker bar (to remove the plugs);

  • A torque wrench that can accurately be set to 14 lb·ft (168 lb·in). This precludes using a 1/2" drive wrench--most cannot even be set that low, and those that can will not be particularly accurate. So, get a 3/8" or better yet a 1/4" drive wrench;

    A 1/4" drive wrench is best because 168 lb·in will be at the top end (85%) of its range where the wrench will be most accurate; with a typical 3/8" drive unit 14 lb·ft will be at the low end (roughly just 17%) of its range.

    You will need a 1/4" female to 3/8" male adapter (the HF 1/4" wrench used to come with such an adapter, it may still).

Note that "clicker" type torque wrenches do not release when the set torque is reached--they just click (hence the name). And most 1/4" clicker type wrenches make just a somewhat subtle click when the set torque is reached.

Practice using it (set to 168 lb·in) on some larger bolt so that you will know what to listen/feel for.

Remove the old plug, then screw in the new one by hand until it is hand tight, then torque it...
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Old 02-01-2014, 07:58 PM   #14
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^ you're amazing, where were you hours ago?

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Car feels so amazing.

I didn't use a torque wrench though. I used my smithing skills.
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Old 02-01-2014, 08:28 PM   #15
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Without a torque wrench you want to make the plugs hand tight +1/16 turn (or maybe a tiny bit more):

The reason this is so important is that the heads were designed to only have the plugs changed once, maybe twice, over the entire life of the engine--once at 100k miles and maybe again at 200k. Because of the extended service interval there are only 4 or 5 "threads" in the plug bore to minimise seizing of the plugs in the bore. Therefore it is essential that they be properly torqued.

Here is a photo of a stripped 2V plug bore:



Some years ago it was put forth on another forum that they should be "hand tight + 1/4 turn"--no No NO!!!

Here are the torque values needed for an additional 1/16th (15 lb·ft) and 1/4 turn (47 lb·ft!!!):



Twas I you I would get a torque wrench and make sure they are properly tightened, or if you tightened them more than 1/16th turn back them off and re-tighten...
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Old 02-03-2014, 08:34 AM   #16
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$20 harbor freight torque wrench is better than having to pay for a timesert... just saying. Set to 145 INCH lbs (its a 1/4 drive inch lb tq wrench) and go.
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:56 AM   #17
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What kind of plugs did you buy? I need to do my plugs (never have before) and easy thinking of just getting motorcraft oem from AM. They said they don't need to be gapped. Plus I read that you don't need anti sieze?
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:12 AM   #18
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Read my sticky thread I made for spark plugs in this section
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:16 AM   #19
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Tr55 v power


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Old 02-03-2014, 02:01 PM   #20
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Slow loves NGKs and I have heard good things. I've been an Autolite guy forever and they've always treated me great. Just don't be a jackass and pay big $$ for a splitfire or bosch 4 spark plug or something. Do they even still make those anymore?
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Old 02-03-2014, 08:39 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Slow loves NGKs and I have heard good things. I've been an Autolite guy forever and they've always treated me great. Just don't be a jackass and pay big $$ for a splitfire or bosch 4 spark plug or something. Do they even still make those anymore?

They make some ridiculous plug that costs about 7.50$ each but by reading the reviews on it the autolites were better
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Old 02-03-2014, 08:53 PM   #22
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I run Champions in everything we own, have been for 50+ years. They have been making spark plugs for 106 years, if there were a better way of making them they'd have sorted it out by now...
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