Clutch/rear end ok with 373 gears and DRs? - Mustang Evolution

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Old 02-06-2014, 09:18 PM   #1
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Clutch/rear end ok with 373 gears and DRs?

So I just dropped my car of to get 373s installed and bought 315/35/17s as well. Should I be concerned with the rear end and/or clutch? I don't think I'll launch at the track above 3k, but just checking on what others think. Mods are in garage but basically full exhaust/CAI/accufab plenum//75mm TB/sub frame connectors/springs and now the gears/tires. Thanks.
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Old 02-06-2014, 09:51 PM   #2
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You should upgrade to cobra diff carrier , 31 splines while your there
But depends on your wallet.
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Old 02-06-2014, 10:10 PM   #3
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Yea thought about that but not happening right now.
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Old 02-06-2014, 10:11 PM   #4
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You'll be alright ,

Just be careful using slicks
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Old 02-06-2014, 10:21 PM   #5
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You'll be alright ,

Just be careful using slicks
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:50 AM   #6
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I've got a 116k mile stock rear end with 28 spline axles, Nitto DRs and a King Cobra clutch. No issues hooking up at all except sometimes the 2V has trouble lighting them up on hot days. Those things stick REALLY well in 90+ heat.
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Old 02-07-2014, 10:52 AM   #7
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So I just dropped my car of to get 373s installed and bought 315/35/17s as well. Should I be concerned with the rear end and/or clutch? I don't think I'll launch at the track above 3k, but just checking on what others think. Mods are in garage but basically full exhaust/CAI/accufab plenum//75mm TB/sub frame connectors/springs and now the gears/tires. Thanks.
What kind of tires are your 315/35/17's? If they're drag radials, I would be careful launching at the track at any RPM. Be sure to ease the clutch out and to protect the rear, but don't slip the clutch too long to protect the stock clutch. You're kind of in a little bit of a bind, if you enjoy going to the track often, IMO.

Sticks tend to be easier on your drivetrain than drag radials for hard launches. Both are sticky and hook up well, but the slicks have soft sidewalls that will flex and absorb some of the initial shock. The flexing of the sidewall will save your stock drivetrain at times. Then again, if you launch even harder because you have the ability to hook better, you're still in danger to wear the weakest links!

Shane
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Old 02-07-2014, 12:33 PM   #8
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With the lack of torque down low the 2V makes compared to the pushrod I just dump the clutch at 5500 rpm and with the 3.38 1st and 3.73 rear gear I go flying out of the hole with no spinning. My 5.0 Cobra would have blown the same tires clean off doing that on the Nittos (and did on the BFGs). Only issue is you have to shift about 3 seconds into 1st with that gearing but the 2V kind of needs it to get out clean.
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Old 02-09-2014, 02:05 AM   #9
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What kind of tires are your 315/35/17's? If they're drag radials, I would be careful launching at the track at any RPM. Be sure to ease the clutch out and to protect the rear, but don't slip the clutch too long to protect the stock clutch. You're kind of in a little bit of a bind, if you enjoy going to the track often, IMO.



Sticks tend to be easier on your drivetrain than drag radials for hard launches. Both are sticky and hook up well, but the slicks have soft sidewalls that will flex and absorb some of the initial shock. The flexing of the sidewall will save your stock drivetrain at times. Then again, if you launch even harder because you have the ability to hook better, you're still in danger to wear the weakest links!



Shane

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Old 02-09-2014, 07:17 PM   #10
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Great advice thank you all. I'm making a trip to the track in mid-late march after I get the gears broken in. I'll be careful testing the water and mayb. I don't make a lot of trips to the track (1-3 per year), but not owning a a set of DRs before this was a good learning experience. Next is to beef up the stock tranny and LCAs. The. I will think about 31 spine axles and carrier. Thanks again
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Old 02-10-2014, 01:45 PM   #11
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Great advice thank you all. I'm making a trip to the track in mid-late march after I get the gears broken in. I'll be careful testing the water and mayb. I don't make a lot of trips to the track (1-3 per year), but not owning a a set of DRs before this was a good learning experience. Next is to beef up the stock tranny and LCAs. The. I will think about 31 spine axles and carrier. Thanks again
No problem! I think you're taking a good route with safety precautions. The first thing I would upgrade is the clutch. As it's probably your weakest link. Not to mention, when you're leaning how to launch a car at the track. The clutch will get a thorough beating for any new drag racer. You'll be glad to have a clutch that can withstand some heat!

LCA's will help the car launch straighter for sure. Especially when you're using slicks or drag radials. Personally, I would invest in slicks first though.

Shane
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Old 02-10-2014, 01:52 PM   #12
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You have alot higer chance breaking rear end with drag radials at a track vs a Full Slick. Lord of people are so unaware of what they say on here

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Old 02-10-2014, 08:35 PM   #13
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So if it's that high of a risk should I just stick with my 245/45/17s and spin through first and second while slightly slipping the clutch as I have been doing?? It kind of defeats the purpose of what im going for (better traction), but if the DRs are going to destroy my rear/clutch then i can hold off on mounting them or possibly just swap them out for the 315/35/17 nitto 555 street tires (I'm open to suggestions).

Also side note..gears are done I pick it up this morning.. I know to take it easy for the first 500 miles, but for the first hundred should I drive for 15 miles (at speeds under 60) then stop for 30 minutes and let the car/rear end cool down 2-3 times aka heat cycle....I'll talk to the shop who installed and se what they say. I know he said to change the fluid at 1500 miles to remove any tiny shavings of metal.
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Old 02-11-2014, 10:43 AM   #14
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Dude with stock 2V power levels you'll be fine. Also Ford gears installed properly do not need any sort of break in whatsoever.
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Old 02-11-2014, 11:25 AM   #15
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Dude with stock 2V power levels you'll be fine. Also Ford gears installed properly do not need any sort of break in whatsoever.

I tried to tell people this but they thought I was gonna mess up my rear end lol


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Old 02-11-2014, 12:01 PM   #16
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I just snapped my carrier on my cobra, so I'm upgrading mine now lol. I have 4.10's with dr's and bolts ons. I would upgrade it now to have a safe piece of mind and if it does break you won't have to tear into you're rear again.
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Old 02-11-2014, 12:34 PM   #17
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So if it's that high of a risk should I just stick with my 245/45/17s and spin through first and second while slightly slipping the clutch as I have been doing?? It kind of defeats the purpose of what im going for (better traction), but if the DRs are going to destroy my rear/clutch then i can hold off on mounting them or possibly just swap them out for the 315/35/17 nitto 555 street tires (I'm open to suggestions).

Also side note..gears are done I pick it up this morning.. I know to take it easy for the first 500 miles, but for the first hundred should I drive for 15 miles (at speeds under 60) then stop for 30 minutes and let the car/rear end cool down 2-3 times aka heat cycle....I'll talk to the shop who installed and se what they say. I know he said to change the fluid at 1500 miles to remove any tiny shavings of metal.
If you want to run a wider tire for traction, but also looks. The Nitto 555 will do the job well without worrying too much about your stock drivetrain. Even still, I think the right move would be to upgrade the parts you're concerned with, like the clutch and rear differential. Then you won't have to compromise with tires, when you really want drag radials!

That being said- since you only go to the track a few times a year. You're not at the worst risk point. You're just not in the clear for a trouble free drag launch.

Assuming your gears are installed properly, there's really no break in. I always run the car for a few highway miles, so the gears heat up. Then let the car cool down all the way (2hrs), before rolling again. After that, you really shouldn't need to do much else.

Shane
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Old 02-11-2014, 12:53 PM   #18
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Thanks Shane sounds good. Just got the car and no noise or whine. Going to drive about 50 miles then let it chill like you said. I'll see if the tire company will swap dr for streets.
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