Wheel Hub Replacement - Mustang Evolution

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Old 03-13-2014, 02:18 PM   #1
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Wheel Hub Replacement

Symptoms of a bad bearing , loud roaring noise.. And when you turn the wheel a certain direction while driving, the noise will go away, and come back once the steering wheel is straight. ( while driving )



Tools needed / Stuff

Wheel Hub
Wheel hub Nut "36mm"

1/2 Impact
3/8 Impact
Rubber Mallet
Flat head screw driver
15 mm swivel Socket
36mm socket
Grease
Brake clean

1. Jack up car with the proper jack stand placement , and block rear wheels

2. Remove wheel

3. With your 3/8 impact and 15mm socket remove your caliper bolts. (2)

4. Remove brake rotor ( May have to hit it off with the rubber mallet )

5. Remove " Dust Cover " with yor flat head screw driver carefully so you don't damage it.

6. Get your 36mm socket with your 1/2 impact and remove the nut.

7. With your mallet, tap off the wheel hub.

8. When it's removed brake clean the shaft and re-grease it to prevent it rusting up.

9. Reverse the steps, but make sure you do not use the old nut, use the new nut. And no it's doesn't come with the assembly. And for the nut tightening , just hit it with the impact real good.
I think the tq spec is like 200+

This is for the front

Couldn't take pictures , did this at work.

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Old 03-13-2014, 03:10 PM   #2
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Torque spec is 221-295 ft lbs. Set to 250 and go... Most ppl don't have that sort of wrench in their garage but you can rent them or drop the $75 or so for a chinamen one from HF that will get you close enough to be fine. Honestly on my Expy I did the front left hub 2 years ago and just got a 24" breaker bar on that sucker and cranked it and its been fine for 40k miles. Not the best advice especially how much of a nut I am about torquing things but you are not putting 300ft lbs on the hub with a 24" breaker bar. Our big wrenches are a good 3ft+ at work.

Fun fact, the final torque for an aircraft hub is very similar. Although we back torque ours to 400 ft lbs.

edit: Also no pics needed for this really. Pull wheel, remove caliper, pull caliper bracket, remove rotor, pop off cap with flathead screwdriver, remove nut, replace hub, new nut, torque, cap back on, rotor back on, caliper bracket back on, caliper back on, wheel back on, drive away.
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Old 03-13-2014, 03:12 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Torque spec is 221-295 ft lbs. Set to 250 and go... Most ppl don't have that sort of wrench in their garage.

Fun fact, the final torque for an aircraft hub is very similar. Although we back torque ours to 400 ft lbs.

Yeah figured it would be more than the standard ft lb a normal tq wrench has.
Man that's insane.
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Old 03-13-2014, 03:18 PM   #4
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Edited like 5 times...

And yeah the torque wrenches we have for these things are 3+ ft snap ons calibrated to within +-4 ft lbs every 6 months or every time they are dropped.
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Old 03-13-2014, 03:22 PM   #5
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Lol I did haha
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Old 03-13-2014, 03:27 PM   #6
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Lol I did haha
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Old 03-13-2014, 03:28 PM   #7
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Lol well its 99% still good. I've dropped the big ones too... What is kinda surreal is when you change 2 or 3 tires on an aircraft that YOU are leaving on as soon as you fix it and in the back of your head its like "if I messed something up we are all going to die". You get used to it after awhile though lol. Especially when you have to go fast because the longer you are on the ground the more of a chance there is you will get mortars shot at you...

I do more than change tires tho lol.
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Old 03-14-2014, 03:44 PM   #8
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Haha.
I have everything to change mine except for the torque wrench.

You're lucky to be able to use your employer's shop to work on your car, Slow... when I was doing that kind of work, every place that I worked for either didn't allow it or acted like I was asking for their "first born child" for even suggesting I might like to use the lift...

So Scotty, in the Air Force, do you hold the equivalent of an Airframe/Powerplant certificate in civilian aviation?
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Old 03-14-2014, 03:59 PM   #9
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Yes but I have the A/P anyway. If I was to stay in the aircraft maintenance world after I got out I'd have to make a pretty good hourly rate though.
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Old 03-14-2014, 08:06 PM   #10
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Yeah , I usually do things at home. I just wanted to do it real quick in the shop.

Install took me like 10 mins

Very easy if you have the right tools and knowledge.
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Old 03-20-2014, 08:04 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Lol well its 99% still good. I've dropped the big ones too... What is kinda surreal is when you change 2 or 3 tires on an aircraft that YOU are leaving on as soon as you fix it and in the back of your head its like "if I messed something up we are all going to die". You get used to it after awhile though lol. Especially when you have to go fast because the longer you are on the ground the more of a chance there is you will get mortars shot at you...

I do more than change tires tho lol.

Dude, awesome job you have!!!
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Old 03-20-2014, 08:06 PM   #12
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Dude, awesome job you have!!!

And I mean that seriously....you can't get anymore exciting than aircraft maintenance unless of course you're a race car mechanic!!
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Old 03-20-2014, 08:46 PM   #13
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Lol, aircraft maintenance is not exactly exciting. Its cool if you are on the road though like I was for almost 2 years. You make a metric ****ton of money as a flying crew chief especially if you are not married/have no kids.
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Old 03-20-2014, 08:51 PM   #14
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How to: Replace Front Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly - MustangForums.com
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