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Old 03-28-2014, 04:27 PM   #36
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I was looking at some Bc racing ones, they look super nice. They're just under 1k, your thoughts?
Looks don't mean crap if they have a crappy ride. I would try to find reviews on all these kits you're looking at. I'm personally gonna go with the Maximum Motorsports kit when I get the money for it. Just remember that lowering the car 3" will mean there's a good chance you won't be able to get your suspension geometry back into spec no matter what you try.
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Old 03-28-2014, 04:31 PM   #37
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The SR ones are good if you are looking for just regular coilovers. They have 250lb springs all around and are adjustable for height, but not stiffness. So if you just want the look and a bit better handling then they are good..... If you want a car thats a track beast then go the route i'm going... I'll probably get around 350lb or so springs.
Keep in mind that the Bullitts came with 600# springs, in the front, from the factory.
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Old 03-28-2014, 04:58 PM   #38
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Keep in mind that the Bullitts came with 600# springs, in the front, from the factory.
Coilovers transfer their spring rate much more efficiently than the stock setup does so they don't require as much of a spring rate. The wheel rate or whatever it's called.
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Old 03-28-2014, 05:03 PM   #39
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Coilovers transfer their spring rate much more efficiently than the stock setup does so they don't require as much of a spring rate. The wheel rate or whatever it's called.
Are they 100% more efficient?
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Old 03-28-2014, 05:08 PM   #40
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Or twice as efficient, I should say.
350# is almost half.
I haven't looked into coilovers so I'm curious...
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Old 03-28-2014, 05:22 PM   #41
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1) Do not cut progressive rate spings. This is why most people do not like cutting springs. But linear (like the stock springs) are fine to cut. (Never ever heat them)

2) I wouldn't cut the SR's. If you still have them, cut the stockers.

3) Since you're only thinking about cutting 1/4 of a coil off the SR's, just remove the isolaters.

Note: I've cut the stock springs on both my New Edge and Fox. The ride is definitely stiffer, and handles 10x better. But Fox springs are softer than New edge springs, and I still have a soft ride. You can see pics of their stance in my album.
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Old 03-28-2014, 05:27 PM   #42
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1) Do not cut progressive rate spings. This is why most people do not like cutting springs. But linear (like the stock springs) are fine to cut. (Never ever heat them)

2) I wouldn't cut the SR's. If you still have them, cut the stockers.

3) Since you're only thinking about cutting 1/4 of a coil off the SR's, just remove the isolaters.

Note: I've cut the stock springs on both my New Edge and Fox. The ride is definitely stiffer, and handles 10x better. But Fox springs are softer than New edge springs, and I still have a soft ride. You can see pics of their stance in my album.

If I remove the ISO won't it squeak? And how much farther would it drop it?
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Old 03-28-2014, 05:30 PM   #43
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I've got mine removed and I don't squeak. But the difference is, if it does you can put it back in. If you cut them, you can't just add it back on. And it'll probably drop it close to that 1/4 coil would.
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Old 03-28-2014, 05:32 PM   #44
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I may just save up and get some sr coilovers, or maybe the bc racing.
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Old 03-28-2014, 05:44 PM   #45
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Are they 100% more efficient?
I believe they're like 90-95% efficient. I'll have to try and find a chart for you. Holy **** race car stiff is breaking the 500s for coilovers.
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Old 03-28-2014, 05:50 PM   #46
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I believe they're like 90-95% efficient. I'll have to try and find a chart for you. Holy **** race car stiff is breaking the 500s for coilovers.
Haha. I had no idea they were that efficient!
Don't go to any trouble...

So I guess that you'd want like around 200# on the back?
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Old 03-28-2014, 05:53 PM   #47
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http://www.maximummotorsports.com/faq_coilover.aspx

Too late. I would think so. I haven't figured out the rates I want to run yet, but low 200s will be soft enough to dd
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Old 03-28-2014, 06:22 PM   #48
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http://www.maximummotorsports.com/faq_coilover.aspx

Too late. I would think so. I haven't figured out the rates I want to run yet, but low 200s will be soft enough to dd

Yolo. I want it to feel like a race car. I just don't want it to be too stiff to where I CANT daily it. But I want it super stiff..... And with coilovers you can always get new springs for like $50 each if you want to change it around front and back.
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Old 03-28-2014, 06:25 PM   #49
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I may just save up and get some sr coilovers, or maybe the bc racing.

Where did you find BC coilovers for our year? I couldn't find any. I thought they only made them 05+
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Old 03-28-2014, 06:32 PM   #50
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Yolo. I want it to feel like a race car. I just don't want it to be too stiff to where I CANT daily it. But I want it super stiff..... And with coilovers you can always get new springs for like $50 each if you want to change it around front and back.
Yeah I would get a fairly stiff spring rate for mine. But I know other people don't want to live with a harsh ride
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Old 03-28-2014, 06:33 PM   #51
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Thanks JDF!

This is actually backwards from what I assumed. If I'm understanding this correctly, if SL4 were to put 350# coilovers on the front of his car, that would be the equivalent of having 1200# coil springs. That is a racetrack ready setup!
On the back, Bullitts have 250# coil springs and the wheel rate is 50% so that would be a 125# wheel rate. A coilover suspension rear has a 110% wheel rate so a 350# coilover has a wheel rate of 385#.

You need to rethink the spring rates Andrew... That's double in the front and TRIPLE in the rear.
I know that you can get away with higher rates, as far as ride quality goes, than coil springs, but, TRIPLE IN THE REAR!!!
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Old 03-28-2014, 06:34 PM   #52
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Yeah I would get a fairly stiff spring rate for mine. But I know other people don't want to live with a harsh ride

I agree I would want a stiff ride also
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Old 03-28-2014, 06:40 PM   #53
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Thanks JDF!



This is actually backwards from what I assumed. If I'm understanding this correctly, if SL4 were to put 350# coilovers on the front of his car, that would be the equivalent of having 1200# coil springs. That is a racetrack ready setup!

On the back, Bullitts have 250# coil springs and the wheel rate is 50% so that would be a 125# wheel rate. A coilover suspension rear has a 110% wheel rate so a 350# coilover has a wheel rate of 385#.



You need to rethink the spring rates Andrew... That's double in the front and TRIPLE in the rear.

I know that you can get away with higher rates, as far as ride quality goes, than coil springs, but, TRIPLE IN THE REAR!!!

I'll do more calculations to see what exactly will be best for the car. Also have to take into account that the front end is much heavier than the rear.
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Old 03-28-2014, 06:46 PM   #54
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Thanks JDF!

This is actually backwards from what I assumed. If I'm understanding this correctly, if SL4 were to put 350# coilovers on the front of his car, that would be the equivalent of having 1200# coil springs. That is a racetrack ready setup!
On the back, Bullitts have 250# coil springs and the wheel rate is 50% so that would be a 125# wheel rate. A coilover suspension rear has a 110% wheel rate so a 350# coilover has a wheel rate of 385#.

You need to rethink the spring rates Andrew... That's double in the front and TRIPLE in the rear.
I know that you can get away with higher rates, as far as ride quality goes, than coil springs, but, TRIPLE IN THE REAR!!!
Haha because race car!
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Old 03-28-2014, 07:05 PM   #55
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I'll do more calculations to see what exactly will be best for the car. Also have to take into account that the front end is much heavier than the rear.
Just remember that you're starting from 600# in the front and 250# in the rear and calculate from there. For the front, MM says that 800# pounds is considered a "performance" suspension. 850# and the ride degrades significantly. You DEFINITELY don't want it so stiff that it won't absorb bumps.
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Old 03-28-2014, 07:07 PM   #56
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Haha because race car!
Race car that rides like an empty cement truck!
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Old 03-28-2014, 07:16 PM   #57
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Just remember that you're starting from 600# in the front and 250# in the rear and calculate from there. For the front, MM says that 800# pounds is considered a "performance" suspension. 850# and the ride degrades significantly. You DEFINITELY don't want it so stiff that it won't absorb bumps.

That's the point I was meaning by "can't" drive...
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Old 03-28-2014, 07:22 PM   #58
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Lol.
I didn't have a clue about coilovers...
All this stuff is kinda complicated. No wonder my car is still stock.

You probably already know, JDF, the calculations for the IRS are different than the SRA.
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Old 03-28-2014, 08:48 PM   #59
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Lol.
I didn't have a clue about coilovers...
All this stuff is kinda complicated. No wonder my car is still stock.

You probably already know, JDF, the calculations for the IRS are different than the SRA.
Yup, I've never done them but I know they're different. The stock front and rear spring rates are both in the 600s for me if I remember right.
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Old 03-28-2014, 08:52 PM   #60
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The rates can be much higher because the amount of coils is greater- laymens terms- more room to move means it can be stiffer with same quality ride
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Old 03-28-2014, 09:50 PM   #61
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Yup, I've never done them but I know they're different. The stock front and rear spring rates are both in the 600s for me if I remember right.
The spring rates on a Terminator are 600/600 on the coupe and 500/470 on the convertible.
01 and below Cobras were 500/470.
The 2000 Cobra R was 800/750.

Looks like because of the location of the springs on the IRS, they need a much higher spring rate than the SRA.
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Old 03-29-2014, 08:53 PM   #62
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Hey guys, I think that me and a buddy are going to cut a coil out of my sr performance lowering springs this weekend. Are there any drawbacks to cutting a lowering spring? What should I be aware of?

Never ever cut springs...doesn't matter if they are linear or progressive... The point is, the spring geometry was designed to have 'x' amount of coils...they are wound using a specific length of wire at a specific rate of heat and speed...when you cut them, you affect the design intent of that specific spring...if you want/need lower springs, buy them...you'll never cut them as accurate as if they were designed that way....saving a few bucks isn't worth the risk...good luck!
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Old 03-29-2014, 08:55 PM   #63
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The spring rates on a Terminator are 600/600 on the coupe and 500/470 on the convertible.

01 and below Cobras were 500/470.

The 2000 Cobra R was 800/750.



Looks like because of the location of the springs on the IRS, they need a much higher spring rate than the SRA.

The IRS is also quite a bit heavier than the solid axle.
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Old 03-29-2014, 09:03 PM   #64
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Never ever cut springs...doesn't matter if they are linear or progressive... The point is, the spring geometry was designed to have 'x' amount of coils...they are wound using a specific length of wire at a specific rate of heat and speed...when you cut them, you affect the design intent of that specific spring...if you want/need lower springs, buy them...you'll never cut them as accurate as if they were designed that way....saving a few bucks isn't worth the risk...good luck!

99% of the time, cutting them will cause absolutely no issue... Have you ever seen/ experienced any?
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Old 03-29-2014, 09:19 PM   #65
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99% of the time, cutting them will cause absolutely no issue... Have you ever seen/ experienced any?

To answer your question, no. However, do you know what FEA is? Finite Elemental Analysis...basically, it's a program within cad software that uses a specific set of calculations to simulate stress on a complete component or specific geometry within the design of that component. The amount of coils over the length the spring as well as the diameter of the coils per the diameter of the wire used is all calculated and based on results using FEA and physical testing...not just for performance but reliability...since the real purpose of lower ones car is suppose to be to improve handling performance, the springs are designed to withstand the stresses the application brings...when the springs are cut, you adversely affect the reliability and performance of the intended design of that specific spring....when you say 99% of the time there won't be an issue, maybe that's because most people are only getting lowering springs to enhance the look of their car, not the handling performance...if you or anyone else following this thread or on this forum only get lowering springs or cut them for looks, by all means go ahead but know the risks....on the first page of this thread, someone posted a pic of springs...study the pic and look at both ends of each spring--notice how they are wound at the ends...imagine cutting coils out of each...do you think that cutting doesn't affect reliability if you understand the pic? IMO, don't ever cut...
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Old 03-29-2014, 09:31 PM   #66
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While I agree with you to a point, I must say you're using logic applied to severe duty applications and instances and applying it to modest aspirations at best
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Old 03-29-2014, 09:34 PM   #67
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While I agree with you to a point, I must say you're using logic applied to severe duty applications and instances and applying it to modest aspirations at best

IMO, all applications are subject to severe duty at some point in their lifetime...it's impossible to predict otherwise...ask yourself this...would you compromise the design of your brakes by cross drilling your own holes? Same principle applies.
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Old 03-29-2014, 09:49 PM   #68
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No it's not but I'm not venturing deeper into differing opinions
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Old 03-29-2014, 10:53 PM   #69
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I have to agree with SpeedMob. Both my cars have had cut springs for many many years. They are my DD's, but I've had no negative effects from it, and I beat the crap out of them when I drive. Also I've done a best N/A of 13.1 with street tires in my New Edge, which also handles like its on rails; and I haven't run my Fox yet, but she handles just as well.
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Old 03-31-2014, 10:27 AM   #70
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I had a stock set of springs laying around so I cut them and dropped my ride maybe around 1.5 inches. I also installed a tubular k member. Car drives great, no harsh bumps, no bottoming out. Takes corners like a champ, while it is a temporary setup I do have to say from personal experience that it doesn't ruin your ride
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