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Old 04-10-2014, 01:11 PM   #36
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Was the price difference between the pin kit and a brand new hinge (and paint) enough of a savings to make the extra labor worthwhile, in your opinion?

At least you have something to drive now while you work on your car... That's a nice perk!
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Old 04-10-2014, 01:17 PM   #37
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Hinges bare are like $130 for both of them I think. Then paint if you wanted to get it properly cleaned/sprayed/cleared is probably another $100 or whatever. Pins I got were like $15 IIRC.

I'd actually say it would be more labor to do new hinges and then get it all lined up properly. A pin is just get the old one out, put new one in and then bolt the door back on.
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Old 04-10-2014, 01:24 PM   #38
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they wanted 170 for the upper and lower hinges from the dealership.. 60 something for one and 100 and something for the other..
The pins and bushings came to about 40 dollars.
Now that they are in and the door shuts great I say it was worth doing myself!. I saved 130 + whatever paint would have been as well as labour...
but I can say that was not as easy as it sounds.
These hinges are closed units and aren't ment for the pins and bushings to be replaced but its possible.
wish ford would have told me the size the bushing was because I ended up drilling out the hinges twice to get them to seat properly.
Not sure how the ones from rock auto are but make sure to buy ones with the perforated ends its a must.
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Old 04-10-2014, 01:29 PM   #39
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I may go back to the dealership and get the perforated ones vs the cotter key ones. Did you just use a BFH and a socket extension to punch the pins into the holes? Do you remember what size drill bit you used? When I did them in my fox they just went right in. Goddamn SN95 lol.
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Old 04-10-2014, 01:41 PM   #40
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well you need them because if you look at the bushings. the top one goes in upside down.. and although u drill the hole for a snug fit that perforated end is what's biting into it holding it in place.. That's my assumption anyways.

The bushings are bigger then the stock ones because ..like mine, my bushings were like crushed and the metal from the hinge was starting to get ground away so a stock size bushing wouldn't seat tight.

I guess I could have did that looool I used a bolt that fit threw and hit it on the head of the bolt ..
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Old 04-10-2014, 01:44 PM   #41
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now to do the wheel baring hub bs lol I am going to see if an auto parts store will lend me a torque wrench if I buy the hub assembly from them. buying one would suck
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Old 04-10-2014, 01:51 PM   #42
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Jegs is selling one up to 150 ft lbs for $20 right now but that' still not enough. The local parts store might rent you one but one that goes that high is going to be a big goddamn wrench. The ones we use on our aircraft that go to 600+ are over 4 ft long and Snap On units that are ludicrously expensive lol.
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Old 04-11-2014, 10:59 PM   #43
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What state are you in? That sounds shady that they charge you double to re inspect. I've never heard of this, for example in nc it's 30 to inspect and if if fails you pay 20 and then 10 when it passes and the only time you have to repay the entire fee is if you take it to a different shop. Just out if spite if you have to repay anyways I would take it somewhere else so they don't get your business.
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Old 04-11-2014, 11:09 PM   #44
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Uhhh I will definitely be taking it somewhere else.. The mechanic must have either over tightened or not tightened my left rear tire because today I noticed it almost falling off and the rim is destroyed.. after I find someone to give me that piece of paper I will never let someone else work on my car again lol That could have been really bad! I do a lot of highway driving
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Old 04-12-2014, 07:46 PM   #45
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If I get any work done at a tire shop like a balance I'll now hit every lug with a breaker bar before I take it anywhere just to be sure and almost every time there are lugs that are not tight enough.
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