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Old 04-15-2014, 10:27 PM   #1
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New mod help

I have an automatic 2v with 4.10, cai, TB, plenum. And a bama tune

I've been looking at the corral for longtubes but all they have is ****ty bbk headers that are all rusted.

Should I keep looking for longtubes or get a different tune from a better tuner?

I live in CA but don't care about emission. I'll figure something out eventually
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Old 04-15-2014, 10:47 PM   #2
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If you want good longtubes on a modular your cheapest new option that is a good one is the SLP set. I'm not sure if they fit auto or not. I'd work on the rest of your exhaust first, the factory manifolds are not restrictive. Then suspension and wheels and tires.

I also see from your avatar that you have a 40th which would mean you have a 2004 which means you have the only year to get the 4R75w vs the 4R70w. The 75w is basically a built version of the 70w straight from the factory and people run them upwards and over 700 ft lbs completely unmodified except for a j-mod and a bigass cooler. Obviously a good aftermarket stall converter which you will want as well. Get ahold of Freakshow Performance in Abeleine, TX and have him set you up with a converter.

As far as the j-mod, its basically doing a "shift kit" to your trans without actually installing a shift kit. It involves removing your valve body, enlarging certain holes in the separator plates and then removing a few other shift softening parts an putting it back together. This not only firms up your shifts like a mofo, it drastically increases longevity. Its not some hack mod either, it was originally designed by Jerry Wroblewski (J-mod=Jerry's mod) who was one of the lead designers of the AODE/4R70w. Look up "j-mod tccoa" on youtube for a how to video.

As far as the bama tune... I'd see if you can get a better tune sent to you from someone like Lidio or Ortiz or just get it dyno tuned locally although that is going to run you around $600 if your dyno tune rates are similar to NJ.
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Old 04-15-2014, 11:05 PM   #3
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New mod help

Yeah I'm aware of the jmod and have researched it deeply. It's just removing some springs and making some already existing holes a little bigger. I think the 75w came on the auto Mach 1's

And I know that the stock manifolds aren't that bad but I want to get my exhaust to finish off my full bolt ons.

A new set of BBK long tubes (don't really want anything bbk on my car anyways tbh) is 500 when for 500 I could get these:
http://bit.ly/1kw2sZM

And what do you think of flowtech? I think they are a division of Holley, but have read mixed reviews.

Most of the name brand headers are those who fit both stick/auto with no fitment issues. And I believe slp is one of those good ones


I don't know anybody else IRL who has a modded mustang so internet is all I can go off of
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Old 04-15-2014, 11:21 PM   #4
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Mac or pypes they are basically the same headers. The pypes are stainless and the mac ceramic or chrome. Can't go wrong either way on these headers that wont break the bank.
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Old 04-15-2014, 11:33 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wicked2v View Post
I have an automatic 2v with 4.10, cai, TB, plenum. And a bama tune

I've been looking at the corral for longtubes but all they have is ****ty bbk headers that are all rusted.

Should I keep looking for longtubes or get a different tune from a better tuner?

I live in CA but don't care about emission. I'll figure something out eventually
if the price is good, have them sandblasted and painted with some silver heat resistant paint.
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Old 04-16-2014, 12:51 AM   #6
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New mod help

I was thinking of pairing a pypes longtube with an offroad shorty H. But the horror stories are what keeps me from getting them.

If I buy them from AM, would they get me a pair that actually fit should something be wrong with the ones I recieve?

Although I prefer them to fit the first time since it's my dd lol
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Old 04-16-2014, 01:17 AM   #7
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New mod help

Looking through some more for sale ads I came across a new nitrous kit with a plenum plate. How my 2v do on the spray?

How does that work on an automatic? Can I run it with overdrive on or without it? Is it even worth it ?

What is the max MPH I can reach with overdrive off with my 4.10 gears? I imagine not very high up. I appreciate any input because it would make my life a lot easier lol
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Old 04-16-2014, 06:21 AM   #8
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Pypes fit like **** and use cheap stainless. If you are going to do it do it right the first time and get a good pair of longtubes. They are not cheap at $700 for the SLP but what you get from SLP is 409 stainless, a quality ceramic coating, great fit and they use slip connectors.

As for the trans, the 4r75w came on ALL automatic cars in 2004 ONLY both Machs and GTs. 2003 Mach 1s got the 4R70w just like the GT did.

As far as nitrous, you run it just like anything else... not too much of it for the stock motor, good tune and a quality kit. As far as overdrive, you should never, NEVER, NEVER go to WOT in overdrive. If you are going to the track or are going to be just messing around turn OD off. I'd be more worried about a good cruise RPM with the auto and 4.10s since the auto has a .70 overdrive which isn't exactly great compared to the .62 the sticks got that year.
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Old 04-16-2014, 09:32 AM   #9
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Yeah I guess nitrous really isn't the best route to go for my car. I'll keep looking into the headers though thanks
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Old 04-16-2014, 09:40 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wicked2v View Post
I was thinking of pairing a pypes longtube with an offroad shorty H. But the horror stories are what keeps me from getting them.

If I buy them from AM, would they get me a pair that actually fit should something be wrong with the ones I recieve?

Although I prefer them to fit the first time since it's my dd lol
wicked2v,

If you purchase any parts from AM, we'll absolutely stand behind them. It doesn't matter what brand or model. If a product doesn't fit, simply send it back and we'll exchange it with a new one. We'll also cover shipping both ways!

If for whatever reason a product doesn't fit and you want to return it, make sure you don't modify it. I've seen a few customers do this and then we're in a bad situation because we can't verify the fitment issue with the manufacturer.

Feel free to send me a PM if you have questions about any of the products we carry. I'm here to help!

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Old 04-16-2014, 10:35 AM   #11
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Just be aware that if you do longtubes and they don't fit or there is an issue later on with them you are either left with the car in the air and the K member dropped or you have to rip the whole damn thing out and a company may or may not stand behind a product that has been ran for a bit and THEN developed an issue.

Remember when you buy a Pypes product you are getting cheaper stainless and 0 quality control. They're like a slightly better OBX.
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Old 04-16-2014, 10:55 AM   #12
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Just be aware that if you do longtubes and they don't fit or there is an issue later on with them you are either left with the car in the air and the K member dropped or you have to rip the whole damn thing out and a company may or may not stand behind a product that has been ran for a bit and THEN developed an issue.

Remember when you buy a Pypes product you are getting cheaper stainless and 0 quality control. They're like a slightly better OBX.

That's exactly what I was thinking Scotty. Which is why I was looking for second hand. HOPEFULLY they already made the necessary adjustments to have it fit (assuming they didn't do a hack job)

This is frustrating lol

I might just go with the hooker headers I don't see almost anybody with them (discontinued I think), they're cheaper than the SLP and a lot if other good brands. But I still have to look for a mid-pipe (def going H)
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Old 04-16-2014, 01:26 PM   #13
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Well, you really will see more benefit to suspension, a good converter and a good set of wheels/tires. A nice aftermarket converter can knock up to half a second off your ET with the stock PI heads/cams/intake. Longtubes might get you 5-10whp over shorties... maybe.
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Old 04-16-2014, 06:54 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wicked2v View Post
I have an automatic 2v with 4.10, cai, TB, plenum. And a bama tune

I've been looking at the corral for longtubes but all they have is ****ty bbk headers that are all rusted.

Should I keep looking for longtubes or get a different tune from a better tuner?

I live in CA but don't care about emission. I'll figure something out eventually
Why don't you purchase Shorties, BBK Catted X-Pipes and whatever Axle-Backs you want. Other than noise, this set-up is LEGAL in California. Doesn't make much sense in putting on an exhaust system that is ILLEGAL and hoping you don't get caught. Also, you wont have to spend the money for two different systems, the Legal one and the Illegal one.
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Old 04-16-2014, 07:51 PM   #15
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Why don't you purchase Shorties, BBK Catted X-Pipes and whatever Axle-Backs you want. Other than noise, this set-up is LEGAL in California. Doesn't make much sense in putting on an exhaust system that is ILLEGAL and hoping you don't get caught. Also, you wont have to spend the money for two different systems, the Legal one and the Illegal one.



Lol I already have someone that passes my smog so I'm not interested in cats or shorties. My car only has 2 cats as it is.

How drive able is an aftermarket Torque converter? Like a 2800 3000 stall? Does this affect mpg much?

There's really not any twisty roads or any track here in the middle if Los Angeles so I get how times are important but not really here they're not lol. I just like to romp on it all the time ya know?
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Old 04-16-2014, 08:12 PM   #16
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I'd do a 2800 stall and it will effect mileage a bit but not bad.

Also, your smog guy could get caught one day so don't count on that 100%. All that has to happen is he passes someone that goes blabbing to everyone how he gets passed with no emissions and the wrong person hears him.

Or a cop pulls you over and decides to be an *******. All he has to do is gander under your car, see that longtube and off you go to a fix it ticket or your car is towed.
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Old 04-16-2014, 11:00 PM   #17
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Lol everybody here has longtubes it's true all those things can happen but it's mostly hype that people are scared to do it lol

If my car happened to be bone stock and nothing changed except the 2800 stall what would the new theoretical 1/4 mile time be?
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Old 04-17-2014, 09:13 AM   #18
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You'd launch harder but its tough to say with the stock gears. With the 4.10s, bolt ons and a tune plus a j-mod and suspension/wheels/tires you are looking at a low 13/high 12 second pass in a PI car if you can get it to hook up. Foot brake up to the stall and let her rip.
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Old 04-22-2014, 02:34 AM   #19
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Ok instead of bolts ons I've decided to go suspension instead.

Any ideas for hooking up on the street?
(straight lines no corners. I take corners like a grandma lol)

Tires are coming AFTER the current ones wear out btw so not yet but sometime in next couple of months


I know MM are the best lca but how do the steedas compare?


This is strictly a street car and dd. I've never ridden in any cars with suspension so I'm not sure what a "rough" ride feels like per se
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Old 04-22-2014, 02:40 AM   #20
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Mega bites? Team z?
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Old 04-22-2014, 07:04 AM   #21
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Your best street setups for the money are going to be the Max Motorsports stuff. Its pricier than UPR/TeamZ etc... but you get what you pay for and its not anywhere close to the competition stuff that places like A47 and Griggs do with the front SLA kits.
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Old 04-22-2014, 09:40 AM   #22
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Ok cool you just confirmed what I thought lol.

So what's the best SETUP I can have on this car??
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Old 04-22-2014, 09:50 AM   #23
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Actually I didn't see that you asked about the Steedas. I have the Steedas on my 98 because the PO had them on there before me and they've honestly been very good.

Good basic setup for a 94-04 car is:

-Good set of LCAs
-STOCK UCAs
-Steeda subframes
-Your choice of lowering springs/shocks/struts
-MM CC plates
-Steeda X2 balljoints if you are feeling froggy

Also a good idea to go through the bushings in your front suspension if they are sloppy but for just going in a straight line its not exactly critical.
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Old 04-22-2014, 12:35 PM   #24
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Actually I didn't see that you asked about the Steedas. I have the Steedas on my 98 because the PO had them on there before me and they've honestly been very good.

Good basic setup for a 94-04 car is:

-Good set of LCAs
-STOCK UCAs
-Steeda subframes
-Your choice of lowering springs/shocks/struts
-MM CC plates
-Steeda X2 balljoints if you are feeling froggy

Also a good idea to go through the bushings in your front suspension if they are sloppy but for just going in a straight line its not exactly critical.

Why stock uca's??
Do you suggest to mod In That order?
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Old 04-22-2014, 06:57 PM   #25
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Stock UCA's will flex and keep your suspension from binding and disforming your torque boxes. That being said, I've seen guys use sperical bushings and reinforced boxes and be fine. And that's a good order for sure. I would do subframes first though. But if you can save up and do it all at once, it might save you some time; instead of taking things apart everytime you get something else....
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Old 04-22-2014, 08:24 PM   #26
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Slp setup will cost u little more but sound will be amazing and u will gain about 10 to 20hp
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Old 04-22-2014, 10:43 PM   #27
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New mod help

My brother is a welder and he is coming to Cali in May. He said he could do nice strong welds even with a harbor freight welder that I could buy.

How much would a shop charge me to install subframe connectors?

I would def get the full length mm ones though

If I put sfc I can jack my car up from any point on there right?
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