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Old 04-18-2014, 10:56 PM   #1
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Headers

I'm really tempted to buy this combo pack, it's so affordable ..

I personally helped install these on a 1999 cobra swapped GT
And well it was a big headache because the idiot out them on while the engine was out, and we had to rub the body to help them fit through, plus the engine hoist wasn't the best.
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Now my friend ordered them and they have been on his car for like 4 months already and 0 problems , the X pipe fitment was good too.. And the steering shaft didn't have any rubbing issues ,

Only problem is that they are kinda rusty now
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What do you think ?
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Old 04-18-2014, 11:31 PM   #2
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rust? powdercoat
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Old 04-19-2014, 05:42 AM   #3
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Pacesetter isn't the best quality. They'll rust. I've got a ceramic coated 4-1 pacesetter header on my cavalier and the coating was so thin it started rusting just weeks after installing. My buddy has ceramic coated headers from JBA on his F150. He's had them a little over a year and they still look good.
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Old 04-19-2014, 07:32 AM   #4
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Reason why they are so affordable is because they are just painted!.. You can send them off to get "Jet Hot" coated, or Ceramic Coating!.. But in the end you'll just be spending as much as you would on a set of SLP or BBK headers!..
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Old 04-19-2014, 07:35 AM   #5
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About a month ago I had a set of BBK Tuned Length headers installed!.. So far no problems and they fit perfectly!..
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Old 04-19-2014, 09:57 AM   #6
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So should I just get them?

It's under the hood anyways you can't even see them
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Old 04-19-2014, 10:31 AM   #7
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If you do get them, I wouldn't put them on until getting them Ceramic coated or something like that!.. The coating does more than just for looks, the ceramic actually helps performance wise too!.. Just my opinion Bro!.. It's your cash and your ride!..
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Old 04-20-2014, 10:47 PM   #8
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Ceramic coatings really might only add 1 hp and only offer some moderate better under hood temps but the real benefit from getting ceramics is that they'll last a lot longer and will just be more durable.
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Old 04-20-2014, 10:51 PM   #9
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Ceramic. It won't rust and keeps temps down better.
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Old 04-21-2014, 07:01 AM   #10
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Pacesetters are hit or miss as far as fit from everything I'm seen. You have some experience firsthand with them so I'll let you be the judge. BBK I would NOT run because they kink the primaries for the steering shaft.

Now... with the Pacesetters... even if they fit great you will be buying new headers again in a few years. That pic of your buddy's shows the rust on the primary but the part where its really going to eat through is the collector right in the dead center and they'll start leaking. And as far as getting Ceramic'd, unless you know someone who will do it cheap that's going to be $300-$350 plus the cost of the pacesetters themselves=you might as well buy SLP which is also stainless as well as already being jet-hotted.

And also aren't you looking to eaton swap again? If that's the case then doing longtubes is a waste because that blower will not only make enough power to destroy the stock rods if its not kept in check, the scavenging effect of the longtubes is nulled out by the forced induction anyway.
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Old 04-21-2014, 09:43 AM   #11
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I'd go with MAC long tubes I've had mine for a year and they still look good and sound great
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Old 04-21-2014, 10:06 AM   #12
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If you plan to keep your car for a long time then you'd be saving money in the long run by getting ceramic coated headers. If you don't have ceramic coated ones then you'll find yourself replacing them in just a couple years
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Old 04-21-2014, 10:09 AM   #13
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I may just get the pacesetter and heat coat and wrap them.
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Old 04-21-2014, 12:54 PM   #14
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Heat wrap only accelerates corrosion. Moisture gets trapped under the wrap and it just eats at the metal.
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Old 04-21-2014, 12:59 PM   #15
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Buy a good set if headers. Do it right the first time.

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---------- Post added at 12:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:58 PM ----------

*of

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Old 04-21-2014, 01:01 PM   #16
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Lol you're almost as bad at grammar corrections as I am. 90% of my edits are for grammar and spelling.
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Old 04-21-2014, 01:06 PM   #17
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Will I even gain any power doing long tubes? Or is it mainly sound
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Old 04-21-2014, 01:08 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Lol you're almost as bad at grammar corrections as I am. 90% of my edits are for grammar and spelling.
Lol I'm guilty, I never pay attention to the screen on my phone. So I only notice after it post. Dam HTC one has a mind of its own lol.

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Old 04-21-2014, 01:20 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Slow4V View Post
Will I even gain any power doing long tubes? Or is it mainly sound
You will notice power especially on a 4V, anything to help those big heads breathe is good. However, all I am saying is if you are doing the eaton, its a waste of money as that thing is going to be pushing full boost pretty damn fast and once you go power adder the scavenging effect of the longtubes is pretty much nulled. A lot of Terminator guys just leave the stock manifolds until the 600hp level and then only swap them because the actual tubing size itself is restrictive.

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Lol I'm guilty, I never pay attention to the screen on my phone. So I only notice after it post. Dam HTC one has a mind of its own lol.

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Yeah my LG G2 does the same thing, I need to get off my *** and load a custom rom on there with a better keyboard setup.
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Old 04-21-2014, 06:36 PM   #20
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Will I even gain any power doing long tubes? Or is it mainly sound
I noticed a great power gain with my headers (SLP LT). I regularly go to the track and I picked up 3 tenths of a second with just adding headers. I did mine mostly for sound anyway
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Old 04-29-2014, 04:57 PM   #21
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I noticed a great power gain with my headers (SLP LT). I regularly go to the track and I picked up 3 tenths of a second with just adding headers. I did mine mostly for sound anyway

I highly highly doubt it was headers alone that made you drop .3 in the 1320
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Old 04-29-2014, 05:00 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Rapinator126 View Post
Buy a good set if headers. Do it right the first time.

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---------- Post added at 12:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:58 PM ----------

*of

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Amen.
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Old 04-29-2014, 07:12 PM   #23
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I highly highly doubt it was headers alone that made you drop .3 in the 1320
You might be right. But, I put my headers on, updated my tuner, and did nothing else to the car and took it to the track again and went from a 14 flat to a 13.7. It could have been many things: weather, track condition, bigger burnout, etc.
I've also been running on really poor tires (semi-bald Sumitomo's lol). My 60' is Usually a 2.2 but my 13.7 run I managed to get a 2.05. Traction is my biggest issue
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Old 04-29-2014, 10:12 PM   #24
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Uh, yeah straight line performance and Sumis are not a good combination. They are a rock hard compound that last forever but you might as well grease them up beforehand honestly... traction will be the same.

What is sad is that if you are patient and wait for deals you can do a much better tire combo than the pre-packed Sumi ones from AM/wherever that everyone seems to run for the same price or less. I did AM rims for $582 shipped and BFG Comp 2s for $600 shipped with an $80 mount/balance. so right at $1262 total which is what the AM Sumi combos run in the size I got IIRC. Nittos or Falkens will be way more and neither are half the tire the BFG is. The only tire AM sells that is as good or better than a good BFG is the Mickey.

But getting back to longtubes, its been said multiple times to do it once and do it right but nobody ever listens. You'll get dudes who are told to get SLP or better but they'll do Pacesetters to save money then "upgrade" to BBK which will also turn colors and corrode before finally going to a good stainless/ceramic one and spending double what a set of Kooks would cost by the time they are finished doing it right. Seen this scenario or one like it MULTIPLE times with exhaust and other parts.
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