Caster Camber Plates 99-04 - Mustang Evolution

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Old 05-05-2014, 10:47 AM   #1
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Caster Camber Plates 99-04

A little write up on how to install some CC plates on your mustang.

Tools needed :
1/2 impact
3/8 impact
Drill
Drill bits ( 1/8 , 13/32 )
Hammer
Jack
Jack stands
Tire blocks
Scribe
19 , 21, 15mm sockets
3/8 ratchet
Grease
Dikes

1. jack up car, place the jack stands properly , block the rear tires with blocks. And begin to remove your front wheels with your 19mm or 21mm.

2. Once you have the mustang on the stands, place your jack underneath the front control arm on the side you want to start on first. Raise the jack up so it puts tension on the spring
Attachment 155972

3. Remove the sway bar endlink, so that the control arm can fully drop down fat enough to move the strut out of the fender well. I used a 3/8 impact and 15mm deep socket.
Attachment 155973

I had to loosen up my speed sensor and caliper because I didn't want to damage any lines

4. Remove the top nut on the strut , and discard the big washer and rubber mount. Keep the nut
Attachment 155974
Go ahead and remove the 2 nuts and 1 bolt that hold the bracket down, and drill out the rivets that may hold it down as well. Attachment 155975

5. Go ahead and remove the dust boot on the strut , and remove the clamp and bump stop. And with the new bump stop install it with the cone facing up, and ziptie it to the dust boot.
Attachment 155977
Attachment 155978
I greased the inside

7. Now you have to drill a 4th hole for the new bolt on the bracket kit. Use the Ford top plate removed earlier as a template. Rotate it 180° from the stock position. Align the Ford top plate with the inside edge of the factory cut holes in the strut tower. Scribe the position of the fourth hole into the paint of the strut tower.
Attachment 155979
Attachment 155980
Now align the Ford top plate with the outside edge of the factory cut holes in the strut tower. Once again, scribe the position of the fourth hole into the paint of the strut tower.
After scribing with the Ford top plate in both positions, find the intersection created by the 2 markings.
Attachment 155981

Center punch the middle of the intersections , and start by drilling a 1/8 hole , and work your way up to a 13/32 hole.

8. Now place the bracket from underneath the strut tower to see if it fits Attachment 155982

Very important you put the the right side on the right side..
Attachment 155983

9. Install the MM main plate over the 4 studs and the ¼”thick washers. Place a provided 3/8” washer, followed by a provided hex nut (14 mm) over each of the four studs. Turn the 4 hex nuts down, but do not fully tighten yet to allow for later adjustment. Use the below image provided by Maximum Motorsports to correctly orient your two provided main plates.
Attachment 155984
Attachment 155985

Note: It is important that you correctly choose the orientation of your MM bearing plates. They may be oriented in either a positive or negative fashion. Most street cars will be oriented positively while most race cars will be oriented negatively.
Use the below images provided by Maximum Motorsports to choose the orientation of your bearing plates.
Attachment 155986
Attachment 155987

10. Go Ahead and install the bearing on top, leave the nuts on the plate and bearing somewhat lose so you can move it around
Attachment 155988

Since my car is lowered MM required for me to put 1 short spacer on bottom, 1 short spacer on top and 2 big spacers on top of that.
Attachment 155989
Attachment 155990
Guide the strut shaft back through the center hole of the bearing plate, after selecting the proper type and number of spacers to be applied below and above the bearing plate, along the strut shaft.
The manufacturer suggests that for vehicles at stock ride height, 2 long spacers and 1 short be placed below the bearing plate, while 1 short spacer is placed above the plate.
Before reinstalling the strut top nut, be sure to very carefully check hood clearance with the new components. It is wise to use a small amount of "Play-Doh" or silly putty placed on top of the strut shaft while closing the hood. The amount of smashed in putty will clearly show how much hood clearance you have. If there is too little clearance you can relocate one spacer from above the bearing plate to below the bearing plate, thus lowering the strut shaft relative to the spherical bearing plate.
NOTE: Hood clearance may change after an alignment. Be sure to recheck clearance after an alignment has taken place.

Attachment 155991

For vehicles at a lowered ride height, it is suggested that your place 1 short spacer below the bearing plate and 2 long spacers, as well as 1 short spacer above the bearing plate.

Attachment 155992

Guide the strut through the bearing hole, becarful to align the sway bar end link through the sway bar as well.
Attachment 155993
Attachment 155994

Make sure everything's tight, and tighten down the top nuts with your 3/8 ratchet, and install everything back to your mustang.

I know this might be a little confusing but I hope it helped.
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Old 05-05-2014, 06:01 PM   #2
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Overall pretty difficult project? I saw the progress on instagram
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Old 05-05-2014, 06:12 PM   #3
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Hmmm medium, more about being precise , and being wise about what your doing.
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Old 05-06-2014, 02:42 PM   #4
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What's the most difficult part
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2003 GT - full bolts ons, suspension, and drag radials
1998 cummins - 150hp injectors | FASS fuel kit | 4" straight pipe | 5" lift | BHAF | 20" wheels | edge juice w/ attitude | built auto trans with stall | closing in on 900tq | bigger turbo soon..

Follow me on instagram @nicknold for car and truck pictures
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Old 05-06-2014, 03:11 PM   #5
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I'd say drilling.. You really need to be precise and know where to drill at.
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