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Old 06-13-2014, 11:33 PM   #36
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No. It doesn't matter if it can spin or not, but if you think that's the problem, remove it.
It sometimes helps to have two people, one to work the lifting device (hoist) and one to jockey the engine around.
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Old 06-13-2014, 11:43 PM   #37
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Well the thing is when me and my buddy had first put the engine and transmission in the car we had the drive line already on so while I was lowering them in he was underneath sliding the drive line on to the transmission. He suggested that by doing that maybe the teeth of the driveline caught on the wrong part of the transmission and caused it to tilt sideways forcing itself into place on the teeth. I may have worded that wrong but if you can understand what I'm saying does that seem like a possibility??
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Old 06-13-2014, 11:49 PM   #38
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Haha
How old is your buddy? That's how you do cars from the 50's and earlier...
Well take it off and find out...
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Old 06-13-2014, 11:53 PM   #39
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Haha we are only 20. Only reason I left the driveline in while pulling the engine and transmission out was because one bolt was a pain in the *** to get off. I just couldn't get it off no matter what I tried. Do you think leaving it on during all this could be the problem?? If so I should drop the driveline and pick up the engine/transmission readjust it all and then hook up the driveline again?
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Old 06-14-2014, 12:02 AM   #40
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I'm not exactly sure what the potential issue is here? The driveshaft was still in place when the trans was installed and you are worried it caught on a tooth and is twisting the motor/trans assembly in the mounts? If you are concerned about that then just jack the rear of the car up and spin the tires.

As far as getting those 4 bolts off. Hit them with PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench and let them sit overnight. Then a 12 pt metric socket (I want to say 12mm) and a big goddamn breaker bar. If its still not working then get a torch out.
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Old 06-14-2014, 12:04 AM   #41
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Lol
I applaud you guy's ingenuity.
The last driveline that I removed from one of these cars about killed me. I was sore for days. Not only that, I broke a 12mm socket and a 3/8 extension.
Soak it with some penetrating oil and don't be afraid to use a breaker bar on it.

I don't know if that's the problem but it was definitely not the preferred method to install an engine and trans.
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Old 06-14-2014, 01:06 AM   #42
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Scotty: ya that's the only other thing I can think of causing this problem. Because the motor mounts are brand new. And like a couple of you said about my pictures, it does appear that the little studs are not seated properly in the holes. And I've wiggled, pushed, shoved every direction/way possible with no better results. Like you said though I have not tried jacking up the rear tires and spinning the driveshaft. Because from what I can see it just appears that the drivers side of the engine/mount needs to be pushed back towards the rear of the car just a little for it to drop into place but something is stopping it from going back any further. And it's not the transmission crossmember, I checked and there is plenty of room for the transmission mount bolts to move around inside the crossmember holes. But from the looks of the top of the transmission it seems to have gotten straighter and less tilted to me. Should I just continue on ? It shouldn't cause problems right it doesn't look that bad ? I searched on americanmuscle.com on user uploaded pictures of people installing short shifters and most of there's seem to look like mine. Here are some of the images I found of other peoples. Click image for larger version

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Old 06-14-2014, 01:07 AM   #43
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And there's mine Click image for larger version

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Old 06-14-2014, 04:29 PM   #44
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I just pulled the stupid gasket off mine today as it was leaking fluid out (would not recommend one). My 3650 has the shifter plate aimed a little like yours but not as drastic as yours was in the first pic you posted. Take a look up at the trans itself. If the trans is level, button it up and go. Throw a level on the exhaust hangar plate if you want to make double sure. If you have the studs of the motor mounts where they should be and everything is brand new you are fine.
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Old 06-14-2014, 04:39 PM   #45
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Damn sorry to hear about your leak, for my buddy's t5 transmission with a short shifter he just used a little bit of RTV around the shifter with no gasket and it's been a year with no leaks at all. Ok sweet cause now the transmission does look fine just the shifter plate above looks slanted, but if they all have a slight slant to them then I should be fine. One other quick question if you guys don't mine , how much of the driveshaft yoke should be sticking out from the transmission? Click image for larger version

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Old 06-14-2014, 05:15 PM   #46
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If its the stock driveshaft and a T-45 you should be good. That looks ok.

Yeah I always use some RTV but kept hearing how great the cobrabob gaskets were so I finally decided to try one. Nope, can't get the shifter super tight or the gasket will push out so I left it just snug. Thought my damn tailshaft seal was leaking because fluid was getting on top of my cats and smoking but the trans has like 300 miles on it since I installed it. Pulled the stupid shifter gasket out and did the standard RTV gasket and dry as a bone. That's $16 wasted and I don't recommend them to anyone else.

The factory uses RTV and MGW even ships their shifters with a mini tube of black RTV because that's all you need.
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Old 06-14-2014, 05:37 PM   #47
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Yupp stock driveshaft and t45 tranny. Thank you so much you have no idea how much I appreciate the help and responses and putting up with my dumb Amateur questions. I will be throwing everything else on and give it a shot. I will give you an update when I get her fired up and running.
Thanks for the warning too because I was actually thinking about getting one of those gaskets when reinstalling my shifter, thinking it would give a better seal than just using RTV like my buddy did. I guess I'll use that $16 elsewhere Probably on another tube of Rtv. Lol
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Old 06-14-2014, 05:42 PM   #48
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Yep, I used "The Right Stuff" gasket maker RTV that I use on everything. That stuff is basically black RTV with god mode enabled. One reason I use it is because if you let it tack up it might as well be one of those cobrabob gaskets on its own, then just mush it down before it fully sets by installing the shifter nice and tight and it'll seal up completely. I don't know why I tried the cobrabob stuff when this method has been working for me for forever but live and learn.

This stuff

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Old 06-14-2014, 06:03 PM   #49
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Perfect, my grandpa actually has a bottle of that sitting in his garage! Money saved. Lol
I've learned so much from this build.
Bought this damn mustang about a year ago, owner said it was all good
Come to find out rear main seal was mangled, oil pan was missing bolts, throwout bearing was fried, intake had a leak, and the list just kept building.
I got myself a Haynes manual pulled the engine and tranny myself and been working on it ever since. This mustang should be running 100 times better. Or so I hope. Lol. I just want to get it back to running perfect before I start modding it. At the moment it's the only car I have that's why I worry so much about little things, I need it to be perfect so I can get to and from jobs. Unemployment is not paying enough lol

What year is your mustang? Any mods? You seem to be an expert on these lol .
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