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Old 06-23-2014, 01:52 PM   #36
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I got the gaskets from advanced auto and what do you mean 50% torque?

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That screw. I can't get it out
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Old 06-23-2014, 02:24 PM   #37
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Just pry up on it with a screwdriver while you try to loosen it. The insert will have to be glued back in.
By 50% means to go through and torque all of the intake bolts, in the correct sequence, to about 12ftlbs and then go back and torque everything to the final torque number, in sequence.
Two steps.
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Old 06-23-2014, 02:35 PM   #38
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Still doesn't seem to move at all... Seriously the last screw before the manifold...
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Old 06-23-2014, 02:53 PM   #39
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I can't seem to find a good spot where I can actually get some leverage on it
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Old 06-23-2014, 03:14 PM   #40
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Pull the manifold off with the coil still attached then... CAREFULLY pull up on the coil as you're lifting the manifold off, so that you don't break the coil. It should pull right off of the spark plug.
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Old 06-23-2014, 07:08 PM   #41
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Well guys.... I took it all apart again and cleaned the gaskets real nice (thankfully the guy at advance said the ones I had were still okay) and got all the bolts set up and started to torque the first bolt... And it broke. The bolt broke at the half AMD is now stuck in the hole... And suggestions to get it out? I'd really rather not take the manifold out and I have an easy out but that require me to drill into the screw and that makes me nervous...
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Old 06-23-2014, 07:16 PM   #42
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Oh Zoneo...

I'd take the manifold back off if you think that you can get something around the broken bolt to get it out.
Use the EZ out only as a last resort.
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Old 06-23-2014, 07:19 PM   #43
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I seem to get closer and closer every time and at the last moment something else goes wrong. I'm gonna look at it with my dad when he comes home in a little bit so I'll keep you all posted.
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Old 06-23-2014, 07:50 PM   #44
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That is weird if you were torquing in sequence that it would break like that. Yeah pull the manifold off and get the bolt out.
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Old 06-24-2014, 09:34 PM   #45
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okay guys! i re did EVERYTHING with the manifold, i cleaned the bolt threads, cleaned all the surfaces really nice. did it all. i went to start it and it runs, but it runs rough. no visible leaks of coolant. i drove her down a few miles to the advance auto and had my buddy look at why it was so rough and i definitely have a pretty bad vacuum leak, so im going to take some carb cleaner to it tomorrow and try to find that, i need to replace a hose connecting to the throttle body cause its pinched, and then my idle pulley (tension pulley) is wiggling back and forth while the belt is moving (REALLY bad) so i gotta see if i need to replace it, or (hopefully) just have to tighten the bolt. but im doing all of that tomorrow as its getting late.

Thoughts?
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Old 06-24-2014, 09:40 PM   #46
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Awesome!
You're narrowing it down.
Check for vacuum leaks and also, did you get the coolant out of the spark plug holes?
That will make it run bad...
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Old 06-24-2014, 09:58 PM   #47
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I still have to go through and clean all the coolant off the engine cause I have an odor from it burning off. You guys think if I just clean the whole engine with a pressure washer it'll get it all and be alright? I've had some people tell me to do it at 3000 rpms and other people have told me the Car doesn't even have to be running... Which doesn't seem logical to me...
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Old 06-24-2014, 11:00 PM   #48
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I wash my engines while they are cool and turned off. Just cover up the alternator and the power distribution box with plastic bags, and don't spray near the air box.
I spray everything with Simple Green and then use the garden hose to rinse it all off. DON'T USE A PRESSURE WASHER TO CLEAN THE TOP OF THE ENGINE!!! A garden hose works fine. Repeat and use a brush on the tough spots if you want it extra clean.
It sounds like you car is prone to collecting water in the spark plug holes so you'll need to pull each of the coils out to check them for water, you can blow them out with compressed air.
Hopefully you got the bolt out of that one coil...
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Old 06-24-2014, 11:28 PM   #49
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Should I make the hose have pressure so it sprays or leave it lose pouring out? To which bolt are you referring? And should I cover the distributers or just the box?
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Old 06-24-2014, 11:39 PM   #50
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Use a sprayer nozzle on the hose.
I'm referring to the bolt (or screw) that is holding on the coil. The one that you said was spinning and you couldn't get it out.
The box that I'm talking about is on the drivers side fenderwell. It opens up and there is a bunch of fuses inside. It's a good idea to keep that dry inside.
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Old 06-24-2014, 11:52 PM   #51
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What setting o he hose? Shower or Jet?
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Old 06-25-2014, 12:02 AM   #52
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Go with the jet.
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Old 06-25-2014, 12:29 AM   #53
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Just buy it at rock auto.com. Got mine for $140 with gasket. Works great now. It's a dorman
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Old 06-25-2014, 07:10 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rollo1987 View Post
Just buy it at rock auto.com. Got mine for $140 with gasket. Works great now. It's a dorman
Fail. The Dorman is a NPI intake that works on PI heads. You are choking your motor with it.
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Old 06-25-2014, 07:14 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoneo View Post
I still have to go through and clean all the coolant off the engine cause I have an odor from it burning off. You guys think if I just clean the whole engine with a pressure washer it'll get it all and be alright? I've had some people tell me to do it at 3000 rpms and other people have told me the Car doesn't even have to be running... Which doesn't seem logical to me...
Ppl telling you to do it with the engine running at 3k... where do you find these ppl? You do it with the engine cool and anything electrical covered up. Cold water on hot metal=nonononononono.

As far as it running rough, could very well be that vac hose you have messed up or if you have coolant in the plug holes they could be messing up your spark. Pull the COPs out and shop vac out each hole, then blast them with compressed air or a forced air dryer or something.
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Old 06-25-2014, 10:45 AM   #56
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There's for sure a vac leak cause it hisses like a mother ****er so I'm gonna fix that and then go from there cause that's my main problem right now... And believe it or not, the kid who told me that's dad owns a dealership. (He's a super sketchy guy who rips people off with ****ty cars) kid pretty much drove a different escalade each day
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Old 06-25-2014, 01:46 PM   #57
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The dorman I'm using is really a quick fix till I get te 800 to buy a a better one. Problem is when I buy the manifold. Have to buy the fuel rails throttle and elbow.
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Old 06-25-2014, 01:50 PM   #58
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I also heard that issue with the dorman. But didn't have the money to buy a different one.
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Old 06-25-2014, 01:54 PM   #59
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If you are talking about the edelbrock intake you will actually lose low end and not gain very much if anything up top on a bolt on 2V. The PI intake is a VERY good intake besides being plastic. People are pushing them up past the 600hp mark on boosted apps with the biggest problem being them cracking on occasion because of the boost, not because they are restrictive. That $800 can be spent in way better places than an intake that won't do anything.

Now, if we are talking about a boosted app or a stroker its a different story but, like I said, the PI intake really doesn't need to be swapped out until much later.
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Old 06-25-2014, 02:00 PM   #60
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Oh. Ok. Well ten I would I just bought my
Car and had some issues workin on it. So far I need to fix the tensioner pulley find the vacuum leak and also find a way to pull the radiator mount off and replace. It's dented up a little. I'm trying to I've the Stang some lovig cause it wasn't taken care of. But the price was great for the miles
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Old 06-25-2014, 09:05 PM   #61
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From what Ive read on the web, the Dorman intake can cause a loss of up to 20 WHP and 20 WTQ, due to its restrictive design.

My GT had a Dorman on it when I bought it. I am going to change it out to the proper stock intake when I get a chance. Im not trying to build a racecar, I just want it to run at its engineered potential and I suspect the Dorman is the reason for my cars underwhelming performance.
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Old 06-25-2014, 09:16 PM   #62
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From what Ive read on the web, the Dorman intake can cause a loss of up to 20 WHP and 20 WTQ, due to its restrictive design.

My GT had a Dorman on it when I bought it. I am going to change it out to the proper stock intake when I get a chance. Im not trying to build a racecar, I just want it to run at its engineered potential and I suspect the Dorman is the reason for my cars underwhelming performance.
This is truth. The Dorman is a NPI intake for all intents and purposes. The $215 brand new PI intake on LRS or AM is the one to get. Fel-Pro gaskets are $25 on rockauto so don't pay parts store prices for them. Also a good time to do a new tstat/tstat gasket and a GREAT time to do the heater core hoses if they are old.

Also perfect time to do new plugs and rebuild your COPs if the COPs need a rebuild and the actual COP plastic housing is in good shape vs spending $350 for new ones. A rebuild kit is $30.
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Old 07-19-2014, 06:52 PM   #63
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alright guys! sorry for the absence, i got busy and then went out of town.


heres the update:

she lives! i bought a new intake and redid it for a 4th time and she runs. but i cant help but notice a few things that raise concern in me that i wanna run past you guys.. so here it guys

The New ****:

i cant help but notice a serious loss of power... i dont know if im expecting to much from it or what but it definitely seems less powerful. i know you guys were talking about the dorman Intake making it lose power and i didnt think i got the dorman.. i got the one off of advanced auto's website. it was the only one in their system for my car, so idk which one it is. but could there be anything else i could have (probably) messed up along the way that would cause that?

theres a clicking noise that occurs increasingly often whenever the car is running. its instantaneous after ignition of the engine and is just a loud click that seems to get louder with the RPMs, which is even more concerning for me. its oddly close to the same noise my roommates car (2006 Chevy Cobalt LS) but its not alwasy as bad.. his car is going in for the recall soon and hes having them check it out then, but it almost sounds like a belt or pulley maybe so i checked my tension pulley (Advanced said i might need to replace it soon) and it doesnt seem to be moving at all... in fact, nothing on the engine is moving at all... she runs like there is absolutely nothing wrong with her, but thats obviously not the case.
when the sound happens if i turn the car off and on again it will SOMETIMES go away.. but this morning i had to do it three times to get a lessened verson of the click.
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Old 07-19-2014, 08:32 PM   #64
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You almost certainly got a Dorman intake manifold.
The "clicking" that you describe sounds like it could be an exhaust leak. Or maybe a noisy coil... or a fuel injector.
Just make sure that the vacuum lines and electrical connectors are all properly plugged in.
You're going to have to try and narrow down where the noise is coming from.
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Old 07-19-2014, 10:07 PM   #65
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but i can run the engine without worrying about it blowing up on me?

as for the intake... damn it.
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Old 07-19-2014, 11:05 PM   #66
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The Dorman intake is safe to use, its just choking your motor. The clicking could be a number of things. If it was a rod bearing it should be consistent and not come and go. Could be a chain tensioner for the cams or even the belt tensioner. Going to have to track it down.
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Old 07-21-2014, 10:07 PM   #67
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so i was looking yesterday.. and it seems that as the car get warm, the clicking stops.. after the engine runs for a short while the clicking gets quieter until it goes away.. any ideas? maybe one of the coils?
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Old 07-21-2014, 11:33 PM   #68
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What you described is a typical symptom of an exhaust leak but, again, you'll have to be the one to figure out what the source of the noise is.
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Old 07-21-2014, 11:51 PM   #69
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its not the exhaust. i do have an exhaust leak, however this is not it. when i say "clicking noise" i literally mean clicking noise... like a dog clicker. over and over and over again.
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Old 07-21-2014, 11:56 PM   #70
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Hmmm.
Does it sound "electrical"?
Like maybe a relay or a solenoid clicking?
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