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Old 06-18-2014, 06:19 PM   #1
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help! name this part for me!

Hey guys! while I was driving we had a little bit of a uhh.. Mishap. A plastic piece that connects to a hose from the radiator cracked and crumbled and as a result my engine can no longer receive coolant as it just sprays on my engine... So can you guys tell me what the part is called and maybe some good places to pick it up for cheap? Its the plastic cover that is located just under the throttle body and covers most of the engine
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Old 06-18-2014, 08:59 PM   #2
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Ugh.
Yep, you're going to have to replace the entire plastic engine cover thingy.
American Muscle sells them.
They call them the FRPP PI intake manifold though.
It's probably a good idea to replace your water pump and thermostat while you're at it.
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Old 06-18-2014, 09:26 PM   #3
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Yep, that would be your intake manifold. AM or LRS sell them for $215 shipped. Get Fel Pro intake manifold gaskets for $25 on Rockauto and then a new tstat while you are at it.

You can replace it in an evening, its not too bad. Remove air intake, remove plenum, all vac lines and obviously the throttle and cruise cables. Unbolt and remove the fuel rails and sit them somewhere off to the side, removing the spark plug coils makes it easier too. Drain your coolant out and disconnect the heater core line at the back and the coolant hose up front and I think that is everything. Remove all the intake bolts and the intake lifts right off. Install is reverse of removal, torque value for the bolts is 22ft lbs and there is a torque sequence to follow. You can google said sequence. If you don't torque it to the right value and follow the sequence it will leak.

It really isn't that bad and you might as well replace it now anyway as preventative maintenance. They eventually ALL warp under the tstat housing, even the metal crossover ones.
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Old 06-18-2014, 09:41 PM   #4
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Looks like intake manifold. If money is the problem then get used one from junk yard sometime u could get good one for super cheap if u have money then get new one( after market)
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Old 06-19-2014, 07:53 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saleenfan04 View Post
Looks like intake manifold. If money is the problem then get used one from junk yard sometime u could get good one for super cheap if u have money then get new one( after market)
Bad idea IMO because they all start to warp the plastic under the crossover over time. Right under the coolant port, they all go at around 100-120k miles usually. Best to get a new one and not worry about it for years vs getting a used one and potentially have issues a few months down the road.
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Old 06-19-2014, 11:05 AM   #6
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That is exactly where mine broke. New intake
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Old 06-19-2014, 11:10 AM   #7
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how about calling it Steve?
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Old 06-19-2014, 12:01 PM   #8
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Oh i see I didn't know that thx and yes one time thing get new one so u don't have to worry about it
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Old 06-19-2014, 12:15 PM   #9
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Bad idea IMO because they all start to warp the plastic under the crossover over time. Right under the coolant port, they all go at around 100-120k miles usually. Best to get a new one and not worry about it for years vs getting a used one and potentially have issues a few months down the road.
I agree.
But I've also been so broke, in the past, that there was no other way than to head to the wrecking yard for parts.
I suppose, that if a person had to get one of these manifolds from the wrecking yard, you'd want to find the newest looking one that has a metal coolant crossover rather than the plastic.
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Old 06-19-2014, 01:08 PM   #10
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You get the metal crossover and under where the tstat goes in the metal crossover it attaches to a thinner plastic piece. This is where super effing hot coolant stops up when the stat is closed and warps the plastic over time and that is the most important spot to check. If it looks out of "round" from underneath don't get it. And you can't see if its bad until you pull the entire intake which means have fun at the yard pulling multiple intakes to compare them lol.
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Old 06-19-2014, 01:21 PM   #11
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That is what I am talking about. That is what the port under the metal crossover where the tstat goes attaches to. There is a VERY big piece of misinformation in the Mustang community that as long as you have a metal crossover intake you will not have coolant leak issues. Totally not the case although the metal crossovers last MUCH longer than the plastic counterparts do. They will all eventually get like that which is why I always say to buy a new one.

This is what my new one looked like

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Old 06-19-2014, 05:43 PM   #12
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Okay guys, I got everything I need and I'm about yo start the swap. Any tips hints or tricks? Also, what torque does it all need to be?
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Old 06-19-2014, 08:08 PM   #13
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Refer to post #3.
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Old 06-19-2014, 08:35 PM   #14
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Jeez that was fast, where'd you get a good PI intake from so fast? Please don't say Autozone because if you did that means you got a Dorman replacement intake which is NOT something you want on your engine.
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Old 06-19-2014, 11:04 PM   #15
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I got the intake from the junk yard, its in amazingly good shape and also happened to be the only they had for the 4.6. The gaskets and all that o got at auto zone. But as for the update.... I got everything done and its all installed as best as I can but I can't get the belt back on... And I may have ****ed that part up... I'm pretty sure I got it, but I had a hard time determining the tension pulley. I'm pretty sure I got the right one (its the only one with an extension arm and seemed pretty pointless) but when I tried to loosen it the pulley completely detached. Upon closer inspection it seemsike it should definitely rotate (add and removing tension) but I can't get it to move at all and as a result, I cannot get the belt back on... Any hints?
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Old 06-19-2014, 11:15 PM   #16
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I have trouble with mine as well. It would be helpful to have THREE arms.
Be sure that the belt is correctly routed around the pulleys and just keep trying.
Google a diagram of the way that the belt is installed if it will help you any.
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Old 06-19-2014, 11:25 PM   #17
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Also, there is a square hole in the tensioner assembly that you are supposed to put a 3/8 drive ratchet into so that you have the leverage to be able to move it.
I have no idea why they didn't make that hole for a 1/2 inch drive. I put a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter on a big breaker bar and use that.
Good luck!
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Old 06-19-2014, 11:37 PM   #18
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Awesome, I'm gonna do that tomorrow, thanks!
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Old 06-20-2014, 07:14 AM   #19
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Lol, I just get it totally routed except for the alternator, take a 2x2 piece of wood and press down on the tensioner itself with my fat *** putting all my weight on it and it goes down about 2-3" and I slip the belt over the alt pulley and then crack open a beer.
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:19 PM   #20
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Okay. So I got the belt on and started her up... She's running kind of rough and smoke came out my exhaust and in definitely leaking coolant pretty badly.... But I can't see where. Also, one of my spark plugs (closest to the gas line) has has around it... Any ideas?
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:29 PM   #21
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Where is it leaking coolant from? If its by the tstat it might be warped like in the picture I posted. When you disconnected the fuel lines did you unhook the lines or did you just pull the whole rail off still connected and set it to the side? Did you torque to 22ft lbs with a torque wrench in the correct sequence? And also you need to snug them all up in sequence first, then go to like 10 ft lbs and then final torque but that's standard torquing practice for heads/intake.
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:32 PM   #22
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You need to figure out where all of the coolant is leaking from and fix that. It will run like crap if there is fluid in the spark plug holes. Make sure that all of the vacuum lines and electrical connections are tight.
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Old 06-20-2014, 05:05 PM   #23
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i cant seem to find the toque sequence anywhere.. anyone know where it is?
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Old 06-20-2014, 05:54 PM   #24
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Google Ford 4.6 intake manifold torque sequence diagram.
Dorman has a PDF that you can download with complete instructions.
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Old 06-20-2014, 07:35 PM   #25
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okay, so i re did it, however i couldfnt get the manifold completely out due to a stripped screw holding the spring in place, but i redid the torque sequence and now im off to get more coolant. wish me luck!!
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Old 06-20-2014, 08:14 PM   #26
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update, i started pouring more coolant in and almost instantly the leak started dripping again before i even tried turning on the car. when i squeeze the main hose i can hear the leak and it sounds like its coming from the back middle area.. but i cant see anything.. the only thing that i can think of that i might have done wrong, is if my friend maybe put the gaskets on the wrong side? is that possible, or are they both generic? help!
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Old 06-20-2014, 10:54 PM   #27
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update, i started pouring more coolant in and almost instantly the leak started dripping again before i even tried turning on the car. when i squeeze the main hose i can hear the leak and it sounds like its coming from the back middle area.. but i cant see anything.. the only thing that i can think of that i might have done wrong, is if my friend maybe put the gaskets on the wrong side? is that possible, or are they both generic? help!
Does it seem to be leaking from the gasket?
I don't know, you may have to take the manifold back off and see if you can find the cause of the leak. You're going to have to get new intake gaskets again. They need to be torqued in the proper sequence PRIOR to running the engine...
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Old 06-21-2014, 01:49 PM   #28
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So i for sure have to get new gaskets? Cause those were like $85 for the set
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Old 06-21-2014, 02:32 PM   #29
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Before you do anything else make sure you know what you are doing. You cant just put on the manifold and say it don't run right and then say, I don know the proper torque settings and sequence. Make sure you know what to do, BEFORE you do it.
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Old 06-21-2014, 02:50 PM   #30
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I do know all of that now, but since I did it wrong the first time does that make the gaskets not seal anymore?
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Old 06-21-2014, 02:51 PM   #31
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So i for sure have to get new gaskets? Cause those were like $85 for the set
Probably, yes. If it's leaking from the brand new gaskets, something went wrong.
You'll have to take the manifold off and try to spot the problem.
Once the gaskets have been torqued down, thats usually it. You cant expect to successfully reuse them.
Did you guys make sure that ALL of the old gssket was removed?
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Old 06-21-2014, 03:51 PM   #32
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I honestly can't answer that as I wasn't the one who put them in, my friend did and judging on how he asked what I was doing when I cleaned off the surface of a different one I don't think he did....

---------- Post added at 02:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:50 PM ----------

But how do I get that spring screw out? It just keeps spinning
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Old 06-21-2014, 04:35 PM   #33
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I don't know what you mean by "spring screw".
Can you post a pic?
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Old 06-21-2014, 06:48 PM   #34
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how about calling it Steve?

Hahaha! My cat is Steve
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Old 06-22-2014, 12:52 AM   #35
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First, tell your friend to stay the hell away from your car. If he's too stupid to use a torque wrench when installing a manifold or the right sequence even then he probably shouldn't even be doing oil.

Next, fel-pro intake manifold gaskets are $25, no idea what ones cost $85 but you got taken for a ride on the $85 gaskets .

Finally, if you can use google, and google "PI intake torque sequence" and look in images you can find it. I just did it and its right there in the second row of pics.

If you use good gaskets and clean off the mating surfaces, and torque them properly in sequence you will be fine. And before you just go to 22 on all of them right away. No, to properly torque you get all the bolts snug in sequence, then torque to 50% in sequence, then full 100% in sequence to get the manifold to seat down evenly.

Now as far as a bolt just spinning... I dunno what "spring" thing you are talking about unless you are talking about one of the long bolts that goes in next to the thermostat but if you do have one spinning that means its probably stripped and will need a heli-coil installed.
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