Good Street/Strip Suspension Setup - Mustang Evolution

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Old 07-01-2014, 01:23 AM   #1
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Good Street/Strip Suspension Setup

Hey guys, ill admit im a complete noob on suspension and sorry for all the questions in advance. 90k miles and still rocking the stock suspension. I'm tired of having no traction launching and slow 60 foot times. 315's helped a lot of the traction problem but still doesn't hook like i want.

Unfortunately I live in a small town with a lot of rough brick roads and a few small dips (which i can avoid if i have to), never drive on sand though. In Kansas so cornering isnt really much of an option haha but am interested in a few autocross trips but not a priority. Here are some mods i have done so far.

02 GT
Bama Tuner
MGW Short Throw
K&N CAI
315 nitto 555's
Bassani Catted X and Bassani Catback
(410's in near future)

Ik the general rule of thumb for suspension is subframe connectors, lower control arms, shocks, struts, springs, caster camber plates. But what manufacturers are best for these? Are aftermarket shocks or struts really required? What do you guys recommend for a good, well-rounded street/strip setup? Thanks guys.
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Old 07-01-2014, 08:33 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by GHO5T5NIPER View Post
Hey guys, ill admit im a complete noob on suspension and sorry for all the questions in advance. 90k miles and still rocking the stock suspension. I'm tired of having no traction launching and slow 60 foot times. 315's helped a lot of the traction problem but still doesn't hook like i want.

Unfortunately I live in a small town with a lot of rough brick roads and a few small dips (which i can avoid if i have to), never drive on sand though. In Kansas so cornering isnt really much of an option haha but am interested in a few autocross trips but not a priority. Here are some mods i have done so far.

02 GT
Bama Tuner
MGW Short Throw
K&N CAI
315 nitto 555's
Bassani Catted X and Bassani Catback
(410's in near future)

Ik the general rule of thumb for suspension is subframe connectors, lower control arms, shocks, struts, springs, caster camber plates. But what manufacturers are best for these? Are aftermarket shocks or struts really required? What do you guys recommend for a good, well-rounded street/strip setup? Thanks guys.
Good question. With the mileage on the car I would probably start with Struts and Shocks and a set of Springs

Not only will they make the car look better but it's going to help squat that much more efficiently when you throw on some of the other corresponding mods. For both I would shoot for Eibach; These guys do not mess around and they're so good that Ford Racing outsources to them for their spring setups.

I would recommend J&M's Subframe Connectors as well as a SR Control Arm Kit as they're both really help aide in the traction loss and wheel hop. Despite having such a sizable tire on the back they're honestly needed for our cars!

Lastly-When you're dropping the car-It's going to need a set of Caster Camber plates (I had J&M's on my '01, definitely worth the money) so you're not chewing through shoes! They're also going to keep unnecessary stress off additional components as well as keep your alignment in check. I wish they were mandatory for anyone lowering their car so they didn't have to go through what I have!

Let me know if you have any questions about this and shoot me a PM if you don't have AM's discount code so I can get you set up!

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Old 07-01-2014, 10:18 AM   #3
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Really depends how deep your pockets are. What your willing to spend on a suspension set up. You could go with "cheap" parts as the girl above me recommended or you can quality big name big money parts.
The best suspension set up for your car would be
Full Coil over suspension
caster camber plates
welded in full length sub frame conectors
Lower control arms
panhard bar
torque arm
bumpsteer kit
you can also remove your upper control arms and your quad shocks with this set up.
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Old 07-01-2014, 10:43 AM   #4
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-Aftermarket shocks/struts
-STEEDA Subframes (they come with extra bracing that others don't)
-Max Motorsports CC plates (best ones hands down)
-Max Motorsports or Steeda Lower control arms
-Good wheel/tire combo.

That is just a start. There is a lot more to be done especially with the horrible 4 link suspension setup that these cars came with from the factory. You can go to a 3 link Max Motorsports Torque Arm/Panhard bar setup or you can look into an IRS swap with a full bushing upgrade from FullTiltBoogie.

Again, this is just a very rough list.
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Old 07-01-2014, 02:38 PM   #5
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Aftermarket struts/shocks
MM CC plates - the best!!
subframe connectors
H&R super sport springs
New poly bushings
MM lower control arms

I went with koni str.t shocks, tokico hp struts, mm cc plates, mm sub frames, H&R super sport springs, mm bushings, and replaced the ball joints with a Moog set while I was at it.

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Old 07-02-2014, 07:17 AM   #6
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I just did what your after. After slot of wasted money and trial and air here what I ended with......team z tubed k member and a arms and coil overs wrapped around Lakewood 70/30 struts. Steeda bump steer kit up front. Rear rebush your stock control arms. MM lower control arms and SR lowering springs. Lake wood 50/50 shocks. Go with the full length weld in subframe! And 275/50r15 nitto 555r drag radial. I have a 97 cobra on 100 shot and lots if other mods. I was spinning to the top end if 3rd before and I get all the traction I want on the street now. Track will be no problem if I can ever get time to head there! Good luck and steer clear of cheap parts it will cost you a ton in the end.


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Old 07-03-2014, 03:59 AM   #7
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Thanks for the quick responses! Since all these parts are so expensive and im about to be a broke college student, ill probably have to end up getting them in groups together...

I was thinking after 410s (or maybe before 410s because they are out of stock everywhere i see) i would start the suspension off with Steeda Subframe Connectors and either maximum motorspors or Steeda lower control arms. Then do shocks and struts and lowering springs and cc plates hopefully together even though that still is a shiny penny.

Does spring quality effect ride quality a lot compared to the shocks and struts as long as i still get isolaters? I was thinking i could save 100$ by going sr performance lowering springs instead of eibach since it seems like there are alot of people out there buying the sr springs. But if its not, i have no problem spending the extra cash for quality
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Old 07-03-2014, 07:30 PM   #8
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I baught the sr spring they give great performance for the money. I wouldn't be afraid of them at all.


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Old 07-03-2014, 09:57 PM   #9
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I have heard good things about the SR springs. I almost got them but wanted a little more of a drop.

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Old 07-07-2014, 09:02 PM   #10
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Gear, tire, and a good clutch. You need a good gear ( 3.73 or higher ) along with a good clutch that will hold a launch with a tire on the car.

What 60's are you cutting now I have cut 1.8's on a street tire with stock gears before


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Old 07-07-2014, 09:43 PM   #11
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Gear, tire, and a good clutch. You need a good gear ( 3.73 or higher ) along with a good clutch that will hold a launch with a tire on the car.

What 60's are you cutting now I have cut 1.8's on a street tire with stock gears before


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Not sure what I am now. I was doing a horrible 2.5-2.7 when it was stock besides exhaust and insanely horrible tires. Now I got a few more mods and 315 nittos so it has to be a lot better than it was


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Old 07-07-2014, 11:21 PM   #12
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Nittos aren't that great of a tire are they a drag radial? Or a standard tire? And no point on modding any further if you can't drive your car now. I am really not trying to be a jerk but do very basic things then progress, don't have a car that can out perform a driver


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Old 07-07-2014, 11:26 PM   #13
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Depends on the type of Nitto. If you actually care about traction forget the NT555Rs, go with either the NT05R or the Mickey Thompson ET Street Radial.
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Old 07-07-2014, 11:27 PM   #14
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Nittos aren't that great of a tire are they a drag radial? Or a standard tire? And no point on modding any further if you can't drive your car now. I am really not trying to be a jerk but do very basic things then progress, don't have a car that can out perform a driver


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I can drive the car perfectly fine. The time I went to the strip was a few weeks after first owning the car and learning to drive stick also. Much different now, that was just my first experience with it all and didn't help tires were shot


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Old 07-07-2014, 11:29 PM   #15
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Do you drop the clutch or slip it?


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Old 07-07-2014, 11:33 PM   #16
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Depends on the type of Nitto. If you actually care about traction forget the NT555Rs, go with either the NT05R or the Mickey Thompson ET Street Radial.

They are just the street nitto 555's not the drag radials. I didn't want to have to drop another 500$ on tires every 10k miles or whatever they are rated at. I'm going to buy a nice pair of drag radials with the same rims to swap before going to the track if I really start getting into racing


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Old 07-07-2014, 11:38 PM   #17
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Do you drop the clutch or slip it?


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First couple times dumped it and was basically just doing burnouts so I started to rev lower and slip a bit but never got it to where I wanted it to be. But that was all learning in one day and that was a few years ago. Much better now than I was than even tho it still needs tons of improvement. Don't know if this is good or not but I'm now doing a 6.8 0-60 on street. I think stock they are in the 5.5-6 second range right? So I still need to improve my driving and launching for sure


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Old 07-07-2014, 11:44 PM   #18
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They are just the street nitto 555's not the drag radials. I didn't want to have to drop another 500$ on tires every 10k miles or whatever they are rated at. I'm going to buy a nice pair of drag radials with the same rims to swap before going to the track if I really start getting into racing


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Yea don't expect any traction with the 555s.

I have Sumitomo HTR Z II tires on my car, 285s in back. And i have good suspension work also. I can roast those all day long at the strip. Also have 4.10s so that helps with the roasting ability.

That being said, its still fun at the strip, just don't expect good times without good tires.

Last time i went I was running 15s all night because of it (granted i could tell i got better traction on the street, they had bad prep). There were cars there that i could tell i was faster than, but they were getting better times because i had no traction.
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Old 07-07-2014, 11:50 PM   #19
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Yea don't expect any traction with the 555s.



I have Sumitomo HTR Z II tires on my car, 285s in back. And i have good suspension work also. I can roast those all day long at the strip. Also have 4.10s so that helps with the roasting ability.



That being said, its still fun at the strip, just don't expect good times without good tires.



Last time i went I was running 15s all night because of it (granted i could tell i got better traction on the street, they had bad prep). There were cars there that i could tell i was faster than, but they were getting better times because i had no traction.

So basically, if I want to compete at the strip I need to get a good set of radials before I start on suspension? I see people on here talking about going 14s with bad street tired all the time. Are they just at lower altitude, better drivers, or just blowing smoke? My goal first of all is to get to 14s which I think I could do now as I was very close before. I think the time slips are in my glovebox I'll have to look but I think my best time that day was 15.3


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Old 07-08-2014, 12:55 AM   #20
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So basically, if I want to compete at the strip I need to get a good set of radials before I start on suspension? I see people on here talking about going 14s with bad street tired all the time. Are they just at lower altitude, better drivers, or just blowing smoke? My goal first of all is to get to 14s which I think I could do now as I was very close before. I think the time slips are in my glovebox I'll have to look but I think my best time that day was 15.3


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Suspension and tires should be the first thing you worry about, don't worry about power. No use for that unless you can get it to the ground. I would start off with suspension just because tires will wear over time, so get the stuff that doesn't wear done with first.


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Old 07-08-2014, 08:55 AM   #21
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Nittos suck (except the NT05) and run way too narrow. A Nitto 315 is basically a 285 or 295 wide in real people size. Sumis aren't much better honestly and also run a little narrow. I love my BFGs and have been running BFG whenever I get new tires. They hook great, last a good amount of time and are cheap.

I hear amazing things about the Mickey Thompson Street Comps though, I may try them next time. I did have the Nittos too so I'm not just talking out of my *** about how they suck. They are NOT worth the money, there are way better tires out there and they're usually cheaper than the overpriced Nittos.
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Old 07-08-2014, 01:00 PM   #22
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Ok well sounds like I'll definitely have to grab some new tires before I want to get some serious improvement. In the meantime I'll start improving the suspension and new clutch before I get some new tires that hook. I was worried about dead hooking with some sticky tires on a stock clutch wth 90k on it, that's why I wet nittos. What should I do first? Lower control arms? Subframe connectors? 4.10s? Or save up and lower with some 70/30 drag/street front struts, good shocks, and caster camber plates?


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Old 07-08-2014, 01:51 PM   #23
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Subframes, control arms, suspension and gears. Then worry about tires if the ones you have are still ok as far as tread. A 90k clutch could be totally fine, they last a good while honestly.
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Old 07-08-2014, 02:18 PM   #24
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[ QUOTE=scottydsntknow;2042904]Subframes, control arms, suspension and gears. Then worry about tires if the ones you have are still ok as far as tread. A 90k clutch could be totally fine, they last a good while honestly.[/QUOTE]

Yeah these tires are literally brand new. Prolly 1.5k miles on them. Do u need to get cc plates, shocks, struts, and springs at the same time? Or can that be split up too?



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Old 07-08-2014, 09:39 PM   #25
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CC plates should be installed before or at the same time as you do the suspension. You will not be able to get the caster/camber correct without them. A shop might be able to get close or bull**** you about it being ok without them but in 5k you'll notice your tires in the front are shot and your ride quality will be crap. Get the Max Motorsports CC plates.
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Old 07-09-2014, 04:04 PM   #26
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CC plates should be installed before or at the same time as you do the suspension. You will not be able to get the caster/camber correct without them. A shop might be able to get close or bull**** you about it being ok without them but in 5k you'll notice your tires in the front are shot and your ride quality will be crap. Get the Max Motorsports CC plates.

Ok so I should get the lowering springs and cc plates at the same time. Will I be fine running on the stock shocks and struts being lowered until I can afford to upgrade those as well?


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Old 07-09-2014, 04:17 PM   #27
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Good Street/Strip Suspension Setup

You can run stock ones, but you will want to upgrade eventually. I'd recommend adjustable ones so you can tune it in for launching. Either Bilstein or KONI


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Old 07-09-2014, 07:11 PM   #28
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You can run stock ones, but you will want to upgrade eventually. I'd recommend adjustable ones so you can tune it in for launching. Either Bilstein or KONI


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Ok. So the stock shocks and struts would wear faster if I was lowered right?


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Old 07-09-2014, 07:22 PM   #29
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Yes,


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