Custom Rear Seat Delete - Mustang Evolution

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Old 07-09-2014, 10:23 PM   #1
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Custom Rear Seat Delete

Ok so i thought i would make some form of DIY thread for the custom rear seat delete I did, its not too hard of a job. I was hesitant at first, but decided to try it myself and am very pleased with the results.

Ok so the very first thing I started with was taking out the rear seats, mine have been out for a month all ready so I don't have any pictures of that part, but its very easy, and lots of videos on the internet. But basically take a flat head screw driver and find the middle of each of 2 big seat cushins in the back, there will be a small lever on the inside that you press the screw driver into and it will release the lock, its all one big piece so it won't come out all the way until you release both. Then for the back piece (the heavy part) you fold the seats down and there will be bolts up top, as well as the bottom behind where the bottom cushin are, once you get those out it should come right out. If you are like me and already have the harness bar in place then the easy way is to take them out of the trunk. There is a bunch of padding in there also, just take it out and throw it away (or keep it if you want). Also, you will want to take out the white tabs where the bottom part locked into, just 4 small bolts.
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Once the seats are out you are out you will have to remove the seat belts in the back. There are 3 different locations, on the floorboard, behind the sail panel, and then a little south of that one. First you will want to do the one behind the sail panel, grab the back of it, or the part where the belt comes out and pull, it will then bend toward you, its strong so don't worry about it breaking. Pull it all the way back and then unbolt the belt behind there. The next part is the actual retractor assembly, its just one bolt and its the same size socket. There are 3 push pins each on the sides of the location where the back seats were, you have to remove those (mine was missing some already, so its not a big deal if you are also). Its kind of hard to get to back there so you will want some extensions, then it comes right off. I pulled all of the belt through that panel. Do the same for both sides.
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Ok the easy part is done. Now what i did next was get myself 2 of the big posterboards, the ones for like school presentations. I didn't get a lot of pictures of this point, but the way that seems the best for this is taking measurements of the sections you will need. The bottom part I measured to 48" (left to right) and 19" (front to back), then the back is 38" (left to right) and 22.5" (top to bottom). Your measurements can vary based off of where you are going to mount everything and if you want your bottom part to go over the lip at all, or stop before it. From here it gets tricky because there are curves in it. What i found easiest is use wire and form it to the curve, use whatever you want. I use solder, it was easy to form, a little soft maybe for transferring over, but it worked. Transfer it over and cut to the measurements. In these pics it was kind of rough, i went back and did the wire part again to get the corner just a bit better.
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If you feel the cardboard is sturdy enough then you can stop there and skip the next few things up until the carpeting. I went and got plywood, somewhat thick for the bottom for it to be sturdy, and thinner stuff for the back so its easy to remove later and so it keeps weight off. Trace the cardboard onto the wood, and cut to spec.
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After you do that i would recommend test fitting it and making necessary adjustments. I had to do that multiple times until i felt the fit was good. I found myself making most adjustments to the size of the curve. Remember that you will be adding carpet, so don't make it perfectly snug, give it a bit of room.
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Once you feel that its a good fit go and get your carpet and adhesive. I used THIS. You will need 2 rolls of carpet. Along with that I used headliner adhesive, you will want a big can because you will want to use a lot of it.
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Once you've got your stuff go ahead and roll out the carpet, it will take some time to stay flat and not want to roll itself back up, i layed it on the saw horses and took a hair dryer to it, which helped. When you've got that done lay it down, spray the hell out of the boards and lay them on the carpet, you will want to weigh it down so it holds nicely.
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I gave it a few hours. Once it is on nicely wrap the edges around and either adhesive it, or i used a staple gun, no one is going to be looking at the back side of it, and it holds it on very very well. You may have to get a bit creative with the round parts.
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After you are done with that, you are done!!!!!!! The last thing you need to do is put it in the car and see how good it looks. I haven't bolted mine down yet, i drove around with it and it is fairly sturdy as it is. If i ever plan to mount something to it (nitrous bottle or whatever) then i will bolt it in completely and reinforce it just a bit more. But for now it is good.
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The cost of the entire project was:
Cardboard: $10
Wire: $10
Wood: $25
Carpet: $20
Adhesive: Free from a friend

So it cost me just around $65 for everything, compared to those cheap kits that are just cheap carpet from online that you can get for about $150. Looks better and is more sturdy. Your costs can vary based on what you actually use and if you already have some of the stuff.

Hope this helped.
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Old 07-09-2014, 10:52 PM   #2
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Where did you get that bar ?


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---------- Post added at 09:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:51 PM ----------

Looks dope I might try that I took my seats off too


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Old 07-09-2014, 11:00 PM   #3
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Where did you get that bar ?


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---------- Post added at 09:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:51 PM ----------

Looks dope I might try that I took my seats off too


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Old 07-09-2014, 11:07 PM   #4
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Very nice write up!

And you did that like you have a bit of experience working with wood...
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Old 07-09-2014, 11:09 PM   #5
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Very nice write up!

And you did that like you have a bit of experience working with wood...
My dad helped me a bit with the cutting and the carpeting. I did do a majority of the work though, and i'm honestly surprised how good it looks considering I did most of the work lol. I'm not the most crafty or handy.
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Old 07-14-2014, 01:38 AM   #6
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Man I had the same idea for deleting the seat in 04 V6. Nice job. I am going to bookmark this so I can come back to it later. Thanks for posting this.


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Old 07-25-2014, 12:41 AM   #7
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The need to make molding to match the rear interior instead of carpet.


BBK cai, Trickflow 75mm tb/p, SR tb/p spacer, egr delete, Steeda udp, Mac longtubes, Mac o/r x-pipe, SLP loudmouths catback dumped, NOS 100 wet shot, Ortiz tune, Ford Racing 4.10 gears, Moser 31 spline axles, urethane rear end bushings, tokico shocks and struts, Eibach sportline springs, MGW short throw shifter. 8/10.5x17 staggered bullitt rims with 235/315 street tires for now. Last dyno 345 Rwhp 430rwtq (w/o longtubes.)
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Old 07-25-2014, 12:43 AM   #8
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The need to make molding to match the rear interior instead of carpet.


BBK cai, Trickflow 75mm tb/p, SR tb/p spacer, egr delete, Steeda udp, Mac longtubes, Mac o/r x-pipe, SLP loudmouths catback dumped, NOS 100 wet shot, Ortiz tune, Ford Racing 4.10 gears, Moser 31 spline axles, urethane rear end bushings, tokico shocks and struts, Eibach sportline springs, MGW short throw shifter. 8/10.5x17 staggered bullitt rims with 235/315 street tires for now. Last dyno 345 Rwhp 430rwtq (w/o longtubes.)

Scott Drake has aluminum moldings for a delete. They do require minor trimming though.


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Old 07-25-2014, 04:00 AM   #9
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Great write up!

I'm guessing the 1996 to 2004 back seat does not have a small "hump" in the lower center.

I built a rear seat delete for my 2011 using plywood as you did. The slight problem I had was that the 2011 to 2014's have a hump or bulge in the lower seat center, so the plywood will not lay flat across the bottom. I had to cut a 4 inch center out (4 inch across, and 7 inches back from the front) to clear this bulge, then box it in, then cover it all with the carpet such as what you did in your writeup.
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