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Old 07-15-2014, 09:59 PM   #1
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brake job

Do you need to bleed your breaks when you change your pads and rotors?
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Old 07-15-2014, 10:10 PM   #2
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Not unless you managed to get air in the somehow. Ideally you would just flush the fluid along with doing the brakes, but it's not absolutely necessary
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Old 07-15-2014, 10:21 PM   #3
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No need to bleed. Set the calipers aside and change the rotors/pads.


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Old 07-15-2014, 10:37 PM   #4
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okay., I thought if I compress the pistons that id have 2 bleed. thanks
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Old 07-15-2014, 10:45 PM   #5
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brake job

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okay., I thought if I compress the pistons that id have 2 bleed. thanks

You always compress pistons when doing brakes or you wouldn't be able to get the new pads in. Unless somehow you were to let the fluid level in the master cylinder run down so low that you were sucking air in, bleeding isn't necessary. Usually when doing brakes and compressing calipers, you actually push the fluid level higher in the master cylinder.


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Old 07-15-2014, 11:02 PM   #6
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You always compress pistons when doing brakes or you wouldn't be able to get the new pads in. If somehow you were to let the fluid level in the master cylinder run down so low that you were sucking air in, bleeding isn't necessary. Usually when doing brakes and compressing calipers, you actually push the fluid level higher in the master cylinder.


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This is so very true and actually if you notice your fluid level low in your master cylinder, chances are your pads are worn and need replacement, rather than just adding fluid

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Old 07-16-2014, 07:09 AM   #7
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how do you loose brake fluid if you don't bleed the brakes?
I don't understand what you mean by " Unless somehow you were to let the fluid level in the master cylinder run down so low that you were sucking air in" how can that happen when changing the pads and rotors?
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Old 07-16-2014, 07:29 AM   #8
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brake job

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how do you loose brake fluid if you don't bleed the brakes?
I don't understand what you mean by " Unless somehow you were to let the fluid level in the master cylinder run down so low that you were sucking air in" how can that happen when changing the pads and rotors?
As your brake pads wear down, your calipers will expand to keep the pads against the rotors. The fluid is what causes the expansion, so more fluid will be in the lines and calipers causing the level in the master cylinder to go down. As a side note, if you keep topping off your fluid as the level goes down and your brakes wear down far enough, you will actually have fluid overflow the master cylinder when you finally do go to compress the calipers on the next brake job.


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Old 07-16-2014, 08:03 AM   #9
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fluid in the master is good, brakes and rotors are probably originals from when the car was made, still stop fine. Non the less, time to change the pads and rotors. Eventually I will change the brake fluid when I get a helper and change to braided brake lines at the same time.
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:08 AM   #10
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brake job

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fluid in the master is good, brakes and rotors are probably originals from when the car was made, still stop fine. Non the less, time to change the pads and rotors. Eventually I will change the brake fluid when I get a helper and change to braided brake lines at the same time.
Good deal! Sounds like you are good to go. Compress slowly so the fluid does not squirt up out of the master cylinder as it moves back up the lines. Brake fluid will damage paint immediately.

Just noticed you are a fellow Wisconsinite. Cool!


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Old 07-16-2014, 09:20 AM   #11
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I do a power bleed every year contrary to what everyone else says. Usually I get some dirty fluid to come out before its clean. I would NOT recommend the two person method as that can get air into the system even if it is done correctly.

As far as the brakes themselves, I will always recommend Rockauto as for where to get parts from and make sure you have a big goddamn breaker bar for the bolts especially if you've been through rust belt winters. I use Raybestos or Centric rotors and Centric "Posi Quiet" pads and have always had amazing results. Stay away from Napa/Autozone/Parts store brand rotors. They are all cheaply made and often have runout issues.
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Old 07-16-2014, 12:42 PM   #12
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haha just got back from napa and they want 514.92 for all four corners rotors and pads. Rock Auto looks to be getting my business unless someone suggests otherwise? The rotors on this car have groves in them hah I assume its metal on metal rite now. Still stops great and doesn't shake when stopping but the chu chu chu chu chu sound after the car sits for a few days really really annoys me.
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Old 07-16-2014, 01:06 PM   #13
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Your Napa is smoking a whole pile of crack rocks at those prices... wow... I paid I think $200-$250 before shipping for the Rotors/Pads on my Cobra and they're light years ahead of anything Napa/Advance/Autozone sells.
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Old 07-16-2014, 01:18 PM   #14
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I am looking at rock auto rite now. This website seems very old.
Considering getting High performance power stop brake pad a rotor kit
What raybesto's do you recommend? Dailey driver, performance ect.
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Old 07-16-2014, 01:49 PM   #15
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I've got Cobra brakes on the front and back. I got the 66844 Raybestos High Performance for the front and the 66474 High Performance for the rear. But only use those part numbers if you have a 94-04 Cobra/Mach/Bullitt setup or they won't fit. Centric Posi Quiet for pads as I mentioned before. 0 brake dust at all, no squealing or noises or anything, just make sure to use the caliper grease packets on the back of the rear pads or they WILL squeak like any brakes. These pads also bite HARD when you go to stop vs the stock crap.
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Old 07-16-2014, 02:09 PM   #16
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Nope this is a GT model. I have a cobra but it was bought not built, well built but by someone else. Picked this car up as a project and so far everything appears to be stock all the way down to that brake pads. Lots of work ahead of me
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Old 07-16-2014, 07:02 PM   #17
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Then use the raybestos high performance ones for the gt. I know I sound like a product whore but I always use these rotors for everything I own and I always have great brakes. They really are a superior brand.

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Old 07-16-2014, 11:08 PM   #18
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+1000 Scotty needs to change to Scotty does know. I went with his suggestions many times. All were good so far. Thanks man.


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Old 07-17-2014, 06:28 AM   #19
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Haha my evil plan is working...
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Old 08-25-2014, 04:55 AM   #20
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Are Raybestos Pads any good?
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Old 08-25-2014, 12:59 PM   #21
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Are Raybestos Pads any good?
They're good pads but I have had such amazing performance from the Centrics and literally ZERO dust buildup on my wheels I will not deviate from them until they give me a reason to.
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Old 08-25-2014, 01:53 PM   #22
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No need to bleed your brakes , unless you get a air pocket in them.

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Old 08-25-2014, 02:00 PM   #23
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Parts store here claims to have raybesto's that are re branded as there own store's rotors/pads. Is this something that happens often? any way to verify what actual part I am getting? They don't have the part numbers of the originals as they just sell them as there stores premium rotor.
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Old 08-25-2014, 02:10 PM   #24
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Parts store here claims to have raybesto's that are re branded as there own store's rotors/pads. Is this something that happens often?
Yes this happens with alot of stores, they contract out to other major companies to produce a product with the auto store name on them.
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Old 08-25-2014, 02:31 PM   #25
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hmm Maybe I should just go grab them, they want 300 bucks for the 4 rotors and pads with all the hardware included. for there "premium" rotors lol My concern is that there premium is equivalent to say Rock auto's Dailey Driver rotors and wonder if there is any way I could verify this
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Old 08-25-2014, 02:55 PM   #26
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hmm Maybe I should just go grab them, they want 300 bucks for the 4 rotors and pads with all the hardware included. for there "premium" rotors lol My concern is that there premium is equivalent to say Rock auto's Dailey Driver rotors and wonder if there is any way I could verify this
If they are indeed rebranded, built by Raybestos, then you are going to have Raybestos warranty with them, but you would go through the company you bought them from to get warranty satisfaction. So you will be buying a quality part with warranty from a quality company. Are they stock rotors or slotted or slotted/drilled?
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Old 08-25-2014, 03:23 PM   #27
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They told me 2 year warranty on them. They would just be plain, not slotted or drilled. The ones on rock auto have a dailey driver, performance and then the R-300 performance ones that are slotted. This company only has the "premium" and "performance coated rotors". If there were part numbers I could find out what ones they actually are.
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Old 08-25-2014, 07:25 PM   #28
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NAPA?
Their prices are almost always insane.
Reason is, unless you are a professional mechanic, and get the discount, you pay through the teeth.

They also have several different lines (quality) for most parts so you need to know what you are buying.
Most of their stuff is re-branded and you can get the original for less money at say RockAuto.

Where I live, NY, they are quickly going out of business and being replaced by Advanced Auto.

Hey Scotty, what power bleeder do you use/recommend?

I have my wife trained, but you know how that goes
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Old 08-25-2014, 09:09 PM   #29
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No, not Napa. The place is called Car Quest
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Old 08-26-2014, 10:35 AM   #30
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I'd just buy them direct from Rockauto and that's what I always do. Rockauto's RMA/warranty system is really good.
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Old 08-26-2014, 11:02 AM   #31
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I hate parts stores! They look at you like your the idiot when your asking what manufacturer and for part numbers and the like. do you want regular, premium or performance? Uhmm what kind are they? like who makes them.
The one store the employee asks me, what's all that matter for, there a premium rotor.
I was going to buy them from carquest since they have everything in stock and returns would be way easier if needed/warranty but I guess I will try out rockauto
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Old 08-26-2014, 12:15 PM   #32
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Remember, parts store workers are minimum wage and probably have no idea what the difference is themselves. Every time I go into one of those stores for an actual part I have to prepare myself to deal with someone who thinks they know more than me about my own car.
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Old 08-26-2014, 01:00 PM   #33
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Car quest isn't bad . It's what most dealers get their parts from

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Old 08-26-2014, 10:55 PM   #34
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Car quest isn't bad . It's what most dealers get their parts from

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Well it would be cheaper then getting them from rockauto and they have everything in stock. My only concern is that there "premium" Rotors are comparable to the "dailey driver" Rotors rock auto offers. Since they don't offer part numbers that I can cross reference its really just a guess. I guess?
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Old 08-27-2014, 07:50 AM   #35
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If you are actually a Cobra or are running the 13" rotors up front and vented Cobras out back I can just reference you the part numbers I used. The whole "premium" vs "dd" stuff is not nearly as big a deal as you are making it out to be.
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