03 GT A/C problem - Mustang Evolution

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Old 08-15-2014, 11:49 AM   #1
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03 GT A/C problem

Max ac blows hot air. Freon is good and compressor kicks on and stays on. So that would lead to the low ac switch or whatever its called?

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Old 08-15-2014, 11:58 AM   #2
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The compressor should not stay on constant. It should cycle periodically on and off. If the compressor is staying on, then something is wrong with that issue itself.
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Old 08-15-2014, 12:12 PM   #3
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There are two pressure switches, a high pressure switch, and a low pressure switch.

Think of the high pressure switch as a "cut-off" switch. Once system pressure reaches too high, ( around 500+psi) it will open the circuit causing the a/c compressor to disengage to prevent damage.

Think of the low pressure switch as a "cycling switch" Once low side pressure (sometimes called the suction side) reaches 20psi, the switch will open and the a/c compressor will shut off. When this happens, the pressure will begin to ballance out across the orifice tube. Once pressure on the low side gets high enough the switch will close again, and the a/c compressor will once again engage and the cycle starts all over.
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Old 08-15-2014, 12:19 PM   #4
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It blows cold for about a second or two and then back to hot. I didn't watch the compressor long enough but it stayed on constant for at least a minute on max ac

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Old 08-15-2014, 12:33 PM   #5
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Did you just recently add freon or anything else to the A/C system?
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Old 08-15-2014, 01:13 PM   #6
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Added some Freon. Also is there a switch under the passenger side that tells it hot or cold? Been googling some answers lol

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Old 08-15-2014, 01:15 PM   #7
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How much did you put in the system? And how did you gauge how much you put in? If you overfilled the system, it will cause the compressor to stay on and not cycle properly and will cause harm to the compressor. Plus if it is overfilled, it will not blow cold air.
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Old 08-15-2014, 01:20 PM   #8
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1. A/C compressor clutch engages compressor, compressing refrigerant. The compressed refrigerance builds up high amounts of heat, with pressures ranging in the 150-250psi range depending on outside temp.

2. The hot high pressure refrigerant moves into the a/c condensor core. The condensor core rapidly cools the compressed refrigerant, before it passes through the orifice tube.

3. The orifice tube creates a high low pressure system, high on the compressor side, low on the evaporator side. The low pressure causes the refrigerant to drasticaly drop in tempature,

4. The cold refrigerant then passes through the evaporator, which acts like a heater core, just with cold air. The blower motor blows through the evaporator transfering the cold air..

5. Finaly the refrigerant goes through the accumulator drier to remove any moisture, and possible liquid refrigerant before returning to the compressor.

Through this whole process refrigerant goes from liquid to gasious state, the process also removes moisture from the air (hence evaporator).
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Old 08-15-2014, 01:56 PM   #9
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About 5 Used one of those gauges at Wal-Mart. Was sitting around 25 and now its 30. Still in green zone. Do I need to wait for the car to warm up or that doesn't effect it.

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Old 08-15-2014, 02:07 PM   #10
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Your engine temp has nothing to do with how and when your compressor cycles. When you say 5, you mean 5 cans? If so, something is not right, 5 cans is way too much. If were me I would go to the local A/C guru and have them plug into your system and see what the actual numbers are before you start blowing seals and ruining your compressor.
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Old 08-15-2014, 04:16 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99_GRUMPY_GT View Post
Your engine temp has nothing to do with how and when your compressor cycles. When you say 5, you mean 5 cans? If so, something is not right, 5 cans is way too much. If were me I would go to the local A/C guru and have them plug into your system and see what the actual numbers are before you start blowing seals and ruining your compressor.
Mine was the CCRM
(constant control relay module) .... Rite under front passenger wheelwell




Quote:
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Max ac blows hot air. Freon is good and compressor kicks on and stays on. So that would lead to the low ac switch or whatever its called?

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Old 08-15-2014, 04:22 PM   #12
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Lol 5 psi.

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Old 08-15-2014, 04:38 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fomoco4life View Post
Mine was the CCRM
(constant control relay module) .... Rite under front passenger wheelwell
That is a possibility also with the OP.
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Old 08-15-2014, 04:54 PM   #14
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Alright. I'll keep looking into it. This car is at a dealer for 3 grand that's why I'm asking. So far the ac and 02 sensors are the only bad.

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Old 08-23-2014, 08:18 PM   #15
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I checked the CCRM and that wasn't the problem. I jumped the low pressure switch and the compressor kicked on max a/c but not blowing cold. Just hot. Before I jumped the low switch the compressor would not come on when it is on max a/c.
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Old 09-03-2014, 07:53 PM   #16
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Kinda dark but the first picture shows the compressor missing the clutch? And the second one is the one on my GT. Unless that's how it's suppose to be.

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Old 09-03-2014, 08:36 PM   #17
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The clutch is not missing, it is internal of the pulley.
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Old 09-03-2014, 10:33 PM   #18
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So, it's fine? Still trying to figure out the a/c issue. Took it to a shop and the readings were low. Let the car sit at his shop to check for any leaks and he said there wasn't any. He wanted to replace the whole a/c. Compressor, Condenser, etc. After I replaced the low switch the compressor kicks on now. Just doesn't blow cold. Everything works on the a/c switch side. From switching to max to other settings. Freon is full. Could there be moisture in the system?
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Old 09-04-2014, 07:50 AM   #19
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Yes the clutch is present, is it fine, I can not tell you that. But a shop should, if you hear the system kick on, then that should tell you the clutch is working. Everytime the system cycles (kicks on) that means the clutch was activated to charge the system. If the cycle is too quick, then that means it is not holding pressure, hence a leak. The accumulator should be taking care of the moisture. Unless it is bad or soaked inside. Unable to seperate as it is suppose to. What I would sdo is get a second opinion from a different shop, and a 3rd. Apparently the first shop had no idea what is going on and to say they wanted to replace the main 4 items that make up a a/c system is bad advice. And not to mention usually money wasted. So go to a reputable shop a secong and 3rd time and see if they can determine and see if they both come up with the right answer.
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Old 09-04-2014, 08:30 AM   #20
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Quote:
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Yes the clutch is present, is it fine, I can not tell you that. But a shop should, if you hear the system kick on, then that should tell you the clutch is working. Everytime the system cycles (kicks on) that means the clutch was activated to charge the system. If the cycle is too quick, then that means it is not holding pressure, hence a leak. The accumulator should be taking care of the moisture. Unless it is bad or soaked inside. Unable to seperate as it is suppose to. What I would sdo is get a second opinion from a different shop, and a 3rd. Apparently the first shop had no idea what is going on and to say they wanted to replace the main 4 items that make up a a/c system is bad advice. And not to mention usually money wasted. So go to a reputable shop a secong and 3rd time and see if they can determine and see if they both come up with the right answer.

I agree with 99_Grumpy_GT. A second and third opinion seem to be needed. It seems to me like the compressor is good. Now I would inspect the condenser to make sure it's not going bad.

If the second and third say the same thing, I'd take their advice.
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Old 09-04-2014, 12:30 PM   #21
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Only went to the first guy because of family member trusted him. Will look into other opinions. Kinda knew the guy was full of it when he told me about it.

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Old 09-04-2014, 12:32 PM   #22
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Let me know what you find out
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Old 09-04-2014, 12:39 PM   #23
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Let me know what you find out
Will do

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