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Old 08-17-2014, 04:43 PM   #1
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Something's got to be wrong!

Today I did a 0-60 run in my 2003 gt auto. Mods are upr o/r x, off brand 2 chambers, sr CAI. I live in North Carolina and I have 245 summi tour plus tires if I'm not mistaken. I ran 7.37 and I'm pretty sure that's got to be a little abnormal for these cars. I know there not speed demons, but it seems like that's just not normal.


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Old 08-17-2014, 04:52 PM   #2
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What was your reaction time, and did you do more than one pass? How many miles on the odometer? And what is a Centennial?
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Old 08-17-2014, 04:56 PM   #3
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I did two, first was like 7.43 or something, my buddy was timing and he started when I did. I have about 93.5k on the odometer and the centennial edition was the 100th anniversary of ford, about 700 were made of the coupe and they only came in black. They have different badges, two tone leather, embroidered seats and the mach 1000 sound system. I think that's it


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Old 08-17-2014, 05:02 PM   #4
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Centennial is a hundred year anniversary Grumpy.

The average 0-60 time for stock PI New Edges is about 5.5 seconds.
What shape is your engine in Hunter?
Been a while since you checked things over?
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Old 08-17-2014, 05:07 PM   #5
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I've had it for one year. Everything seems to be running good but it probably wouldn't hurt to do a tune up. What would you recommend? It just seems to be a bit sluggish


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Old 08-17-2014, 05:19 PM   #6
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The miles on your car indicates that it possibly has the original spark plugs.
If you haven't checked anything then you need to go through everything tune up related.

Replace spark plugs
Replace fuel and air filters.
Clean the Throttle Body and the Mass Air Flow sensor.
Inspect all of the vacuum lines for leaks.
Clean or replace the Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve.
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Old 08-17-2014, 05:20 PM   #7
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Alright thanks!


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Old 08-17-2014, 05:28 PM   #8
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I see that you have a CAI. I don't know what air filter that you have but it may be reusable after cleaning. If its a K@N don't over oil it. That can cause problems.
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Old 08-17-2014, 05:38 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by straybullitt View Post
The miles on your car indicates that it possibly has the original spark plugs.
If you haven't checked anything then you need to go through everything tune up related.

Replace spark plugs
Replace fuel and air filters.
Clean the Throttle Body and the Mass Air Flow sensor.
Inspect all of the vacuum lines for leaks.
Clean or replace the Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve.
+1, only thing I would add is change the tranny fluid and filter, and engine oil if not done since you have had it along with the filter. Plus while you are changing the plugs, inspect the COP and COP boots for hardened, cracks, or splitting. And stay away from Bosch plugs, NKG or Autolites.
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Old 08-17-2014, 05:49 PM   #10
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Something's got to be wrong!

Alright thanks
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Old 08-17-2014, 05:56 PM   #11
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Oh and by the way, when installing the plugs, do yourself a favor and do it while the engine is cold, not warm or hot. And do not over torgue your plugs when installing each one. These heads are notorious for spitting plugs out and taking the threads out with them when over torqued while driving. Last thing you want to happened.
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Old 08-17-2014, 09:21 PM   #12
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Yep, torque wrench is required for spark plugs on these engines. 12-15ft lbs and no more. I do 12.

Do ALL the fluids to include the rear diff, converter, trans and oil. Get new OEM (not accell or msd or any aftermarket you want OEM) coils and a good set of plugs in there too. You can also do the J-mod while your pan is off for the trans fluid change. That in itself will probably knock a bunch of time off your 0-60. However if you are still on stock suspension and street tiers, there is only so much you are going to be able to do.
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Old 08-17-2014, 09:22 PM   #13
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Yep, torque wrench is required for spark plugs on these engines. 12-15ft lbs and no more. I do 12.

Do ALL the fluids to include the rear diff, converter, trans and oil. Get new OEM (not accell or msd or any aftermarket you want OEM) coils and a good set of plugs in there too. You can also do the J-mod while your pan is off for the trans fluid change. That in itself will probably knock a bunch of time off your 0-60. However if you are still on stock suspension and street tiers, there is only so much you are going to be able to do.
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Old 08-20-2014, 11:16 PM   #14
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Why does everyone think a mustang GT does 0-60 in 5.5 seconds lol. Thats with a manual and a professional driver in the best possible conditions. an average driver will hit 60 in about 6 seconds. An automatic is about a full second slower than the manual, so 0-60 in an automatic stock is a mid to high 6....
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Old 08-21-2014, 01:57 AM   #15
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Why does everyone think a mustang GT does 0-60 in 5.5 seconds lol. Thats with a manual and a professional driver in the best possible conditions. an average driver will hit 60 in about 6 seconds. An automatic is about a full second slower than the manual, so 0-60 in an automatic stock is a mid to high 6....
The 0-60 number that I quoted came from a website that takes an average of the reported performance statistics from a number of various sources. They are, of course, mostly, from when the cars were brand new. (Nobody gives a rats *** once the next model is released). And yes, the cars were most likely being tested at racetracks by experienced drivers.

We need to have a baseline to go by and that's all that there is.
The only other option is me taking the word of someone driving an out of tune, 12 year old Mustang, with his buddy in the passenger seat timing the whole affair with a smartphone. (No offense Hunter)

I'll trust the "professionals" who were testing the cars when they were new, with proper timing equipment.
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Old 08-21-2014, 02:05 AM   #16
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Dood. Get a tune
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Old 08-21-2014, 08:07 AM   #17
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A quality tune will wake up the tranny. I would also suggest a j-mod and a tranny cooler as well.

That's what I have in my 03 GT Vert and between the j-Mod and tune it's like driving a completely different car. Crisp shifts and the lag and sluggishness is gone.
The tranny cooler will prolong the life of the tranny as heat is the big killer for transmissions.
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Old 08-21-2014, 08:47 AM   #18
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Haha none taken. But a tune is one of the next things on my list. I've been thinking about going with bama. But I live like 10 minutes away from Fastlane Motorsports, they do custom dyno tunes and the whole nine yards. That's where I'm taking the car Monday for a tune up.


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Old 08-21-2014, 09:57 AM   #19
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Haha none taken. But a tune is one of the next things on my list. I've been thinking about going with bama. But I live like 10 minutes away from Fastlane Motorsports, they do custom dyno tunes and the whole nine yards. That's where I'm taking the car Monday for a tune up.


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If you choose bama over a full on custom dyno then you are beyond help.
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Old 08-21-2014, 09:59 AM   #20
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Haha I'm pretty sure I'm gonna go with the dyno tune


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Old 08-21-2014, 10:00 AM   #21
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Get a tune and some 4.10s and ur 0-60 should be down there lol
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Old 08-21-2014, 10:22 AM   #22
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Get a dyno tune, have them set your shift points and research the J-mod. You will not need a re-tune for the j-mod. Generally, a good tuner will charge a flat $500-$700 for the initial tune and then $200 a pop for retunes. Way more than "tunes for life" but you know its done right and you watch it and the results are right there and it is for YOUR SPECIFIC CAR.

And if you WERE going to go with a remote tuner, look into MPT. They are around the same price but only 3 tunes vs tunes for life but they'll actually write you a tune based on YOUR datalogs vs guesswork and a battery of canned questions. For a canned tuner I'd probably go with Steeda, just because of their relationship with FRPP.
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Old 08-21-2014, 01:19 PM   #23
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I was gonna mention the j mod thing when I take it in Monday. There going to flush the transmission anyways. Around how much will the jmod cost and what does it consist of. I know it firms up the shifts and stuff like that. Is it dangerous?


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Old 08-21-2014, 01:36 PM   #24
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They most likely will either not know what it is or it'll be a Mustang guy who will but will have to do it on the side if at all. Every single instance I've ever head of it being done it was DIY by the owner. It consists of pulling the pan off the trans, removing a few springs to firm up the shifts and then reaming out a few select holes in the valve body separator plates to flow more fluid. It is not dangerous at all, unless you suck at following directions. If you can read and use basic hand tools and a drill you can do the J-MOD.
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Old 08-21-2014, 01:40 PM   #25
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Haha alright. We'll this place is an all mustang shop. It's called Fastlane Motorsports. They are the ones that built the Grabber Blue gt500 with the big *** blower. Look them up. I would hope they would know about it but I could be wrong.


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Old 08-21-2014, 01:46 PM   #26
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If they don't then here is the video

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Old 08-21-2014, 06:37 PM   #27
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J-Mod isn't rocket science however there are many places where you can screw it up if you are not careful. I did it myself on my car and here are my tips, from memory.
1. Cleanliness is most important.
2 Take before pictures. LOT"S OF THEM. And make sure they can be viewed.
3. Realize the bolts come in various different lengths but same thread size so they will, in theory, fit into holes where they don't belong. Separate everything and document, with pictures, where things were.
4. Pay special attention to the check balls.
5. The little filter is a PITA to put back and have it "stick in place" while you bolt up the valve body.
6. Organization is key. Use a drill bit. Put it on the side so you don't confuse it with the others.
7. Take your time. Follow torque specs to the digit. Don't even think of doing this without a torque wrench. You will fail.
8. Be very gentle with the electrical harness and circuit board /wires. They are extremely fragile. Do NOT force anything. Be very gentle and do not allow the harness to be bent.
9. Take pictures, pictures and more pictures BEFORE and DURING the dis-assembly process.
10. Pay careful attention to where the shift lever detent rests in the valve. It's easy to put the pawl in the wrong slot.
11. Use fresh fluid and a new filter. Replace the pan gasket as well even though it's technically re-usable.
12. Don't forget to put back the magnet in the pan.

The video wasn't around when I did mine a few years ago. Or at least I didn't know about it. I used the instructions from the TCCOA site coupled with what I could find on the net.

Like I said, not rocket science but you need to pay attention to detail, be surgically clean and put things back in the correct places.

It's actually a fun project as long as you are patient and pay attention to detail.

Best of luck to you!

P.S A dedicated Mustang shop should know all about this mod. Also a shop that handles your local PD or Taxi companies will probably know about it as well because it's very popular on fleet Crown Vics.
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