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Old 08-18-2014, 10:49 PM   #1
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The worst finally happened

So I started up my car and heard a BANG!!! Shut it off and find that I blew a spark plug out cylinder #1.
So I tried to heli-coil it but the heads couldn't be fixed.

I figured it was just better to replace both heads and start off fresh. I'll post pics of progress so far.

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And this was my passenger timing chain tensioner
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Is there any special procedure to re timing these SOHC engines? I have to transfer my stock cams to the new heads and just wondering if anyone has any advice?

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Old 08-19-2014, 01:20 AM   #2
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My parents expidition blows one every year. There is a special tool for it from snapon if I'm not mistaken

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Old 08-19-2014, 04:01 AM   #3
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I decided to buy new heads that had more spark plug threads then the stock ones.


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Old 08-19-2014, 04:16 AM   #4
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Ah I see. Not sure what my dad is doing but after they blow once he does something and that plug won't ever blow again

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Old 08-19-2014, 04:29 AM   #5
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Oh ok I see well that's one way of doing it lol


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Old 08-19-2014, 05:59 AM   #6
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Is this a common trait of this engine type to blow plugs??
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Old 08-19-2014, 06:16 AM   #7
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Yes the 4.6s came with a low thread count in the heads, so any over torque can cause it to blow


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Old 08-19-2014, 07:25 AM   #8
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Is there any special procedure to re timing these SOHC engines? I have to transfer my stock cams to the new heads and just wondering if anyone has any advice?
The crank should be at TDC. The key on the crank should be in the 10 to 11 o'clock position when looking at the front of the motor. The timing mark on the crank gear is at the exact 6 o'clock position for both chains. The easiest way to mark the chains (if they aren't already marked) is grab one link with your fingers and hold the chain in the air. The other mark is the opposite link at the other end of the chain. Put that link on the crank timing tooth and put the other link on the cam pulley timing mark, while keeping the chain on the right (stationary) guide rail taught. Install the tensioner arm after the chain is installed. Be aware the cam gear may want to turn if you have the roller followers installed while doing this. I recommend you always take the rollers out until you are positive the timing is set up correctly to avoid valve damage. They can be pulled and installed with everything assembled! All you need is a big screwdriver to pop them in and out of their spot. You can do this for both SOHC and DOHC modular motors. This also eliminates the need for special cam holding tools. I hope this answers your question.
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Old 08-19-2014, 08:04 AM   #9
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If you are using factory heads then the factory PI cam timing marks should be ok. You would need to degree them if you were using aftermarket cams. And honestly now might be a good time to do cams if the funds allow since everything is apart.

As far as the fix for the plug blowouts, its called a Timesert. Its better than a heli-coil and is a permanent fix. Just be aware, even the 8 thread plug holes can blow out if you overtorque the spark plugs. Make sure you use a torque wrench, I repeat... MAKE SURE YOU USE A TORQUE WRENCH. Even 1/8 turn past finger tight is too much and almost all the plug blowout issues are caused from dip****s who use their "calibrated wrists" and do hand tight plus 1/8 turn or even 1/4 turn. 1/4 turn will for sure strip the head, 1/8 will overtorque and potentially **** up the threads. Factory spec is 12-15ft lbs which is like just a touch over finger tight really. I always set to 12.
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Old 08-19-2014, 08:11 AM   #10
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Ok thank you very much for the timing info, and believe me always using a torque wrench!!


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Old 08-19-2014, 09:24 AM   #11
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Also, good practice if you have 4 thread heads off for whatever reason is to timesert EVERYTHING while they are off.
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Old 08-19-2014, 04:07 PM   #12
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Ok thank you very much for the timing info, and believe me always using a torque wrench!!


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I recommend purchasing a repair manual and reading and fully understanding the cam timing procedure BEFORE you begin installation. If you get it a tooth off and then try to start the engine you are likely going to bend some valves.
After assembly, you should spin the engine through two complete revolutions, slowly by hand, with the spark plugs removed, to be sure that there are no piston to valve clearance issues.
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Old 08-19-2014, 04:15 PM   #13
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I have the Haynes manual and have read it, just wondering if there were any unwritten tips


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Old 08-19-2014, 04:32 PM   #14
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Cool!
You shouldn't have a problem.
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Old 08-19-2014, 08:07 PM   #15
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Haynes is garbage, get a Chiltons. Or better yet, a factory service manual.
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Old 08-19-2014, 08:20 PM   #16
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Haynes is garbage.

All this time I been lied to?
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Old 08-19-2014, 08:51 PM   #17
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All this time I been lied to?
There is a reason that a Chilton's is 2 or 3 times as thick as a Haynes and it isn't large font... A Service Manual is 2 or 3 BOOKS sometimes.

Or you can have a hacked Ford Factory service CD from the 2000 MY for all vehicles.

Problem is it only installs on XP lol. Need to piece together a working tower out of the computer parts I have and load XP Pro onto it.
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Old 08-19-2014, 09:07 PM   #18
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The factory manual is probably the best but I can't say for sure because I've never been able to afford one.
We used to have a walking factory manual right on this website... Cliffyk

I bought a Chiltons when I purchased my Mustang and have found, after using it for around a year and a half, at least a dozen pages that are unreadable due to the printing being too light.

Even the "cheapo" repair manuals will usually have enough of the pertinent information to get you through the job, though.
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Old 08-19-2014, 10:18 PM   #19
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The worst finally happened

Yeah the Haynes never really went in depth on subjects but i have prior experience with these engines so I have a good understanding about how to do it all almost.


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Old 08-20-2014, 06:27 AM   #20
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I bought a shop manual on cd from eBay several years ago. Came in put and goes through every Mustang variant from 03-04.

Best $5 I ever spent. Got it saved to my phones sdcard and on my Google Drive and Drop Box just in case.

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Old 08-20-2014, 07:33 AM   #21
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I bought a shop manual on cd from eBay several years ago. Came in put and goes through every Mustang variant from 03-04.

Best $5 I ever spent. Got it saved to my phones sdcard and on my Google Drive and Drop Box just in case.

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I might actually look for an updated one on the evilbays. My 2000 MY version only runs on XP. Does yours run or even install on 7 or do you run an XP machine?
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Old 08-20-2014, 04:12 PM   #22
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When I got it my computer was running Win 7, but it was just a pdf so I saved it abs now have it replicated several other places for safe keeping and easy access.

I still do run a computer with XP on it though. My son does online public school here in cali and uses it for that, if it ain't broke don't fix it that's my view. Works fine for what he does with it

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Old 08-21-2014, 07:47 AM   #23
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When I got it my computer was running Win 7, but it was just a pdf so I saved it abs now have it replicated several other places for safe keeping and easy access.

I still do run a computer with XP on it though. My son does online public school here in cali and uses it for that, if it ain't broke don't fix it that's my view. Works fine for what he does with it

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Oh, you got the scanned copy of the paper manual then. See, the one I have is the full blown tech program for the 2000 Model Year. It installs the same program they used at the dealerships where you can click on your model and select all options from dropdown menus and then it breaks down into subsystems and you can hyperlink from one to another depending on what you are doing. Like I said, tho, since its a program and its from 2000 it needs XP. It won't even install in compatibility mode on 7.

I am going to piece together an old machine and jack a few old monitors we are just throwing out at work and make a dedicated garage PC for when I do maintenance or break something until its fixed. Good thing the wireless for my router AND my DirecTV tuners reach into the garage lol. Wireless Genie ftw.
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Old 08-21-2014, 05:34 PM   #24
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Oh, you got the scanned copy of the paper manual then. See, the one I have is the full blown tech program for the 2000 Model Year. It installs the same program they used at the dealerships where you can click on your model and select all options from dropdown menus and then it breaks down into subsystems and you can hyperlink from one to another depending on what you are doing. Like I said, tho, since its a program and its from 2000 it needs XP. It won't even install in compatibility mode on 7.

I am going to piece together an old machine and jack a few old monitors we are just throwing out at work and make a dedicated garage PC for when I do maintenance or break something until its fixed. Good thing the wireless for my router AND my DirecTV tuners reach into the garage lol. Wireless Genie ftw.
That sounds pretty sweet, yeah mine is just the pdf, though I can search it, yours sounds more useful. I have to scan through pages and pages to find what I am looking for

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Old 08-22-2014, 07:05 AM   #25
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Yeah like I said, I just have to piece together an old machine to run it. I have all the software and I THINK all the old machine my father was going to throw out needs is a new HDD. Pretty much every slow computer out there is because its using a standard platter drive as the main system drive. A $40 minimalist solid state drive with like 30 gigs of storage to run Windows makes any system feel very fast. My 1.5ghz quad core laptop with a SSD opens all the basic internet/VLC/word processing/music stuff just as fast as my 4.0ghz 6 core with 16 gigs of ram and a SSD and goes cold boot to fully started in 20 seconds. Not saying that the laptop will run Titanfall with all graphics turned on but you get what I'm saying lol.

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Old 09-01-2014, 12:16 AM   #26
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New update on my car, got new heads in from Modular Head shop, installed them and did all the prep work and install.

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Old 09-01-2014, 12:28 AM   #27
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How does she run?

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Old 09-01-2014, 12:31 AM   #28
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Runs soooooo smooth!! So much better then before. Had the heads to run a 10:1 compression ratio. Havnt taken her on the road yet. Tomorrow will be the day for that


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Old 09-01-2014, 12:44 AM   #29
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Nice!
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Old 09-01-2014, 10:50 AM   #30
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Awesome!

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Old 09-01-2014, 11:31 AM   #31
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Looks like it is red


Looks good, let us know how the first drive went.
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:23 PM   #32
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Runs like a champ!!! Never since I've owned it has it ran this good!! The J mod makes the shifts sooo sweet lol


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Old 09-01-2014, 10:20 PM   #33
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Will you do mine: thumb:

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Old 09-01-2014, 10:25 PM   #34
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If I lived close I'd consider it lmao but honestly it's really easy man, I'm 21 years old and tackled it all, with a video I watched on YouTube I was able to get it done no problem


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Old 09-01-2014, 11:31 PM   #35
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That's cool. I'm thinking about finding a Nice set of PI heads either new or used (if used have them gone through) and doing the whole swap over this coming winter, heads, cam, and intake. Been thinking about it for a while.

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