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Old 08-21-2014, 02:45 PM   #1
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Oil Weight

Well I've been using 5w30 full synthetic since I got the car. .

Engine was replaced late 2010 or 2011

SHOULD I Move Up IN Weight ? Or keep doing the same.

Benefits ?

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Old 08-21-2014, 02:51 PM   #2
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Ford recommends 5w20. So that is what you should use. I use that wt, but 5w30 will not hurt any.
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Old 08-21-2014, 05:05 PM   #3
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I've been running 5w-40 full synthetic in mine since got it and my boss has been doing the same in his gmc 1500 since he bought it you'll be fine

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Old 08-21-2014, 05:25 PM   #4
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Over on Mach 1 Registry forums you will find a lot of Mach owners who use various weights of oils, there are several lengthy and informative threads regarding the subject.

That being said I run 5w30 full synthetic in my '04 Mach w/ 64k on the clock. It too has a replaced engine (by previous owner).

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Old 08-21-2014, 06:35 PM   #5
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Where do you live that you run 40w? Telling all on here to do so is not good advice.

Doe's anyone understand the numbers that are on the labels of oil bottles?

Here for the masses is a short education of the numbers.

5W-30 and 10W-30 designations represent the viscosity, or thickness of engine oil. Which thickness of oil works best in your engine is determined by the automaker. And all cars sold do not have the same recommended numbers either. The manufacturer dictates the oil recommendations by where the car is manufactured and the geographical designation of such car. Some common viscosities used in modern cars are 5W-30, 10W-30, 5W-20, 0W-30 and 5W-40.

The numbers represent oil thickness as measured by the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) during hot and cold testing. For 10W-30, the first number (10) is the oil's viscosity when cold; 10 weight is thinner than 30 weight and beneficial when cold, because thinner engine oil allows easy start-up and less strain on the engine. The second number (30) is the oil's viscosity when warm and is typically a heavier oil, to provide better protection at higher temperatures. The "W" paired with the viscosity number (10W) designates an oil that is certified by SAE for low-temperature use in winter. Mustangs sold in areas say Australia may use 10W50 due to their climate conditions.

Synthetic oils are man-made oils that handle extreme hot and cold temperatures better than conventional, natural oils. Natural oils break down faster during high-heat operation like towing, racing or any heavy-load operation, partly because of impurities that can't be removed in the refining process. Thus why you would expect, synthetic oil is more expensive than conventional oil.


So as you can see, oil viscosity needs are based on climate (winter/summer), type of driving (drag racing, street racing, commuter, DD)

What I find alot of times with people using heavier wt oils is, they think just cause it is thicker, it will not leak as much or they won't have to "TOP OFF" as frequently. Disguising a leak or repair needed..
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Old 08-21-2014, 06:57 PM   #6
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I use Mobil One Synthetic 5W-30 even though the owner's manual on my car calls for 5W-20 (2003).

It's my understanding that Ford switched to the 5W-20 recommendation in order to meet CAFE standards. I could be wrong on that one though.
Sometimes during winter I will use 5W-20 if it's on sale.
Personally I don't think it really matters between the two.
I change at 5k miles religiously and every car I have ever owned has gone over 250k. Some over 350k and one 92 Caprice went over 500k miles before I sold it.

Quality oil and a quality filter changed every 5k or less is the key.
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Old 08-21-2014, 07:28 PM   #7
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Do you understand how the oil rating works when cold or at start up the oil is a 5 weight as it heats up it gets thicker so if your running your car hard like a lot of ppl on here do that's better and for manufacturer recommend oil weight what's the difference between the new regular 5.0 which is a 5w-20 oil and the track pack motor that has a 5w-50 recommendation

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Old 08-21-2014, 07:50 PM   #8
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Do you understand how the oil rating works when cold or at start up the oil is a 5 weight as it heats up it gets thicker so if your running your car hard like a lot of ppl on here do that's better and for manufacturer recommend oil weight what's the difference between the new regular 5.0 which is a 5w-20 oil and the track pack motor that has a 5w-50 recommendation

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Dude, do you really beleive that stuff you just typed? Really? Please school me on your knowledge of how the numbers work vs hot/cold and tell me about kinematic viscosity. Please...

When oil is heated it is thinner, when oil is cold like before start-up, it is thicker. That is why the recommended oil change to be performed is when engine is warm, not cold. And to prove that point, go out and change your oil cold and hot. And you tell me which flows faster.

Multi viscosity oils have polymers added to a light base (5W, 10W, 20W), which prevent the oil from thinning as much as it warms up. At cold temperatures the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up, the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C, the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot.

Multi-viscosity oils are one of the great improvements in oils, but they should be chosen wisely. Always use a multi-grade with the narrowest span of viscosity that is appropriate for the temperatures you are going to encounter. In the winter, base your decision on the lowest temperature you will encounter; in the summer, the highest temperature you expect.

10W-40 and 5W-30 require a lot of polymers (synthetics excluded) to achieve that range. The polymers can shear and burn, forming deposits that can cause ring sticking and other problems. The wide viscosity range oils, in general, are more prone to viscosity and thermal breakdown due to the high polymer content. It is the oil that lubricates, not the additives. Oils that can do their job with the fewest additives are the best. Follow your manufacturer's recommendations as to which weights are appropriate for your vehicle. "

One last thing, if you run a different range oil in a NEW car or a carthat is still under warranty, do you know that if something went work with the engine and you tried to claim it under warranty, that the manufacturer can void your warranty if they found the oil not to be recommended oil weight. It happened to a buddy of mine in Germany when he drove his Z-28 on the AutoBahn and threw a rod. The manufacturer sent a tech guy out and they determined that the heavier weight oil and voided his claim and warranty.

I am not trying to be an *** with you, but I have tons of write ups on oil and the technology improvements over the years that I save for references. I read and read just to have the right knowledge, not wrong. And these forums are to be used to give educated and wise information, not mis-leading. I am not the smartest joe on the street, but I am self educated when it comes to working on my cars and reading the latest and greatest in cars and what works and does not work.

Have a good one and hopefully this info can help someone.
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Old 08-21-2014, 08:46 PM   #9
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You have that backwards Grumpy. The first number is the weight of the oil when it's cold the second is the weight when warm.
The whole purpose of adding the polymers is so that the motor oil will be thin and flow easily during cold starts. At 100 degrees Fahrenheit the tested viscosity is no less than the weight of the second number.
It's my understanding that the polymers added to petroleum based motor oil keeps the paraffin molecules from clinging together in cold temperatures, hence the multi-weight designation. As the oil warms up, the polymers lose their effectiveness and the viscosity of the oil increases as the paraffin molecules begin to, once again, cling together.
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Old 08-21-2014, 09:14 PM   #10
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royal purple and a bottle of lucas oil stabalizer
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Old 08-21-2014, 09:33 PM   #11
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You have that backwards Grumpy. The first number is the weight of the oil when it's cold the second is the weight when warm.


That is what I wrote in post 5, I highlighted for you. In post 8 I explain the polymers, I highlighted it too for ya.

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Old 08-21-2014, 09:41 PM   #12
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+1 Straybullitt, also the thinner or lower viscosity is more fuel efficient, hence most hi MPG models now run a 0-20, and i'm sure its gonna get thinner
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Old 08-21-2014, 09:51 PM   #13
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I saw that post. I was referring to post #8.
I should have composed my rambling post better.

The first number in a multi-weight oil is the "cold" weight which is "thinner". The second number is the "hot" weight which is "thicker", or more viscous.
It may just be me but it sounded like you were saying that oil becomes THINNER, or less viscous, when it reaches operating temperature and is thicker when it is cold.
That's what I meant by "backwards".
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Old 08-21-2014, 10:04 PM   #14
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taken to school
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Old 08-21-2014, 10:16 PM   #15
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This isn't about taking anybody to school.
We're all on here to learn. I'm probably wrong about things on a daily basis, in my own life and on this website.

Everyone gets too worked up over oil anyway. Just put in whatever the factory has recommended in the past or present, change it regularly, and don't ever let the engine run out of oil.
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Old 08-21-2014, 10:22 PM   #16
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This isn't about taking anybody to school.
We're all on here to learn. I'm probably wrong about things on a daily basis, in my own life and on this website.

Everyone gets too worked up over oil anyway. Just put in whatever the factory has recommended in the past or present, change it regularly, and don't ever let the engine run out of oil.

+ 1
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Old 08-21-2014, 10:25 PM   #17
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Amen



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Old 08-21-2014, 11:23 PM   #18
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5w-30 Motorcraft and Motorcraft filter. 👍

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Old 08-22-2014, 06:57 AM   #19
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Oil Weight

Use what is recommended by the manufacture, ive taken motors apart where the owners used A diff weight oil and half of the oil rings where stuck causing the car to smoke and burn oil, it dont take all that long to cause this type of damage either one car only had 45k miles on it total and the warrenty was voided because of the oil weight used, i try to tell people if you absolutely have to use a diff weight ( maybe cuz they where out if that weight oil when u bought it) to not go more then 3k miles before you change it and put the right weight in. Only exception is if you live in extreme climate conditions you need to call the manufacture in your area and ask them what weight of oil to use in your area because more then not in those types of conditions the weight on the cap is wrong for that area due to manufactures shipping all over the U.S
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Old 08-22-2014, 07:33 AM   #20
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5w-20 is recommended in the US, 5w-30 is recommended in Europe for the mod motors. Same exact engine. The assumption on this interwebz is that the 20 weight in the US is for emissions/fuel purposes. 5w-30 will actually do a little better in a car that gets beat on regularly IMO. Also will help on an older motor if there is a little oil seepage. I'm about to switch to 5w-40 on my wife's CRV for that very reason, slightly seeping cam seal that I don't feel like changing if an oil weight switch fixes it for now.

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taken to school
Lol, I wouldn't be saying that sort of thing when you pay $8 or $9/qt for the overpriced hype of RP plus a bottle of Lucas, when a $20 worth of Motorcraft or $32 worth of Mobil 1 from Wal Mart would do just as well, even on a boosted car.
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Old 08-22-2014, 07:44 AM   #21
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Lol, I wouldn't be saying that sort of thing when you pay $8 or $9/qt for the overpriced hype of RP plus a bottle of Lucas, when a $20 worth of Motorcraft or $32 worth of Mobil 1 from Wal Mart would do just as well, even on a boosted car.
LOL I was jk because of the story long rant I read and then strays shut down comment!.. as for RP sure is over priced! I buy it because I can at a discounted price from work. I have also used conventional oil on many occasions hah as long as I have clean oil that is recommended weight I cant complain. Sometimes cheap oil is still better then being to cheap to change oil.
Sorry Grumpy, no offence just found it humorous at the time. I will continue to consider advice you post in threads.
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Old 08-22-2014, 07:50 AM   #22
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Got it lol, at least someone has a working sarcasm/joke detector on the internets. I just do the $17 five quart jugs from Wal Mart myself. Super Tech if it's there, Motorcraft if its not. I MIGHT bump up to "baller status" and do the $26 five quart jugs of Mobil 1 if I ever get a Coyote or build my Teksid for this 98.

But if you get a discount on RP that makes sense but its still likely more expensive than the stuff at wal mart. It always baffles me how few ppl know that wal mart sells oil and that its EASILY the cheapest place to go. Even the Autozone store brand oils are not as cheap as Motorcraft or Super Tech from there. Wal Mart even sells Motorcraft filters too and they're like $3. Good times.
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Old 08-22-2014, 10:25 AM   #23
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Probably the only reason I go to Walmart is for oil and filters. I hate that place. I buy the jug of Mobil 1 Full Synthetic and an extra quart. I usually use either Motorcraft , K&N or a Mobil 1 filter depending what they have on sale. And always the top of the line model.
It's a method that has worked well for me.
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Old 08-22-2014, 10:56 AM   #24
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Sorry Grumpy, no offence just found it humorous at the time. I will continue to consider advice you post in threads.

I see nothing, hear nothing!

I just do not care for ill information that gets posted sometimes, not just here, but other forums I belong to. And the PPL that know no better find ill info to be gospel. So I try to give info that is accurate and not inaccurate, and if I do not know the answer, I stay out of the thread.

But all good though, I find no reason for anyone to get butt hurt on the internet. LOL
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Old 08-22-2014, 11:52 AM   #25
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I see nothing, hear nothing!

I just do not care for ill information that gets posted sometimes, not just here, but other forums I belong to. And the PPL that know no better find ill info to be gospel. So I try to give info that is accurate and not inaccurate, and if I do not know the answer, I stay out of the thread.

But all good though, I find no reason for anyone to get butt hurt on the internet. LOL
This is what I tell ppl when they first join. There is actually one person on here who got into trouble because he listened to info recycling nutswingers who had no actual IRL experience and wound up spending a ton of money he didn't need to.

Internet forums: There is a TON of info, some of it is very good, much of it is very very bad but its all free and remember, as with most things in life, you get what you pay for.

I encourage anyone on these and other forums or the internet in general to cross check information from multiple forums and make sure it isn't just the same user on different sites. Anything and everything one could POSSIBLY think of with older and even many newer platforms has already been discussed and beaten to death across a dozen Mustang boards. The Google, she knows much.
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Old 08-22-2014, 12:49 PM   #26
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Everything you have ever wanted to know about oil can be found here.
I'm sure most of you have seen this site but just in case:

Used Oil Analysis - Bob is the Oil Guy - Bob is the Oil Guy
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Old 08-22-2014, 01:02 PM   #27
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Yep, that's a great forum. Albeit a bit overkill IMO. Oil is oil, it all has to meet a certain standard and even the bargain basement oil will be totally fine for the life of 99% of vehicles if changed at regular intervals.
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Old 08-22-2014, 01:15 PM   #28
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Yep, that's a great forum. Albeit a bit overkill IMO. Oil is oil, it all has to meet a certain standard and even the bargain basement oil will be totally fine for the life of 99% of vehicles if changed at regular intervals.
Yep.
They are a wee bit obsessive about oil over there
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Old 08-22-2014, 01:38 PM   #29
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The best is when the Royal Purple and Amsoil fanboys start going at it and then gang up on anyone who comes in and points out that they are spending triple per oil change on what they could be by using Mobil 1 or a good blend.
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