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Old 08-28-2014, 12:45 PM   #1
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Yay bad motor mount

I have not had to do these in a modular yet, in my 95 Cobra it took all of an hour, I hear the modulars are a pain in the sac. If anyone here has any advice I'm all ears but from what I gather it can be done without removing anything if one has a decent set of extensions/swivels (which I have) and also a set of offset ratchets which I can get from HF for $10.99. Hopefully it is the same remove the mount nuts from the K, jack the motor up and remove/replace the mounts 1 at a time.

Will be going with the Energy Suspension poly mounts and leaving the brand new OEM rubber trans mount in place.
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Old 08-28-2014, 12:48 PM   #2
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Yes just unbolt them, and raise motor up slightly and wiggle them out, go with solid mounts

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Old 08-28-2014, 12:52 PM   #3
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I was thinking of solid, they aren't as bad as some ppl will lead others to believe but they aren't exactly smooth either.
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Old 08-28-2014, 12:53 PM   #4
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They are definitely not smooth. But I have them, not necessarily bad.

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Old 08-28-2014, 06:10 PM   #5
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Left or right hand ?

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Old 08-28-2014, 10:51 PM   #6
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When I did mine I had minimum experience with cars ..

Basically just jacked up the front , and unbolted the bottom nut on the motor mount and used a piece of wood and jacked up the oil pan enough to remove the other.bolts and slide it out and slide new one in..


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Old 08-29-2014, 08:32 AM   #7
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Lucky for me when I have to do that at work we have a 7 1/2 ton crane to like it. Lol. But that's for military use. But yea jack up engine but make sure not to over do it and bend the pan.


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---------- Post added at 06:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:31 AM ----------

What's the differnt between mounts


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Old 08-30-2014, 09:54 AM   #8
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Quote:
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When I did mine I had minimum experience with cars ..

Basically just jacked up the front , and unbolted the bottom nut on the motor mount and used a piece of wood and jacked up the oil pan enough to remove the other.bolts and slide it out and slide new one in..


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Looks like the right.



The alternator being designed like it is makes it look REALLY tilted at first but there is about half the clearance between the header primaries on the right as there is on the left.

Pretty much could only be 3 things at this point. The aftermarket crossmember welds might be cracked so I have to pull that out and check (but its a Stiffler's not an AJE so I doubt it), the driveshaft needs to be removed and re-torqued, or the right motor mount is shot and needs replaced. I'm going to do all 3 and see where it goes from there.
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Old 09-03-2014, 09:44 AM   #9
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Car is now barely driveable, it shakes badly at idle stopped but does not vibrate when I rev it in neutral or with the clutch dis-engaged to 6k and has been getting progressively worse the last few days. Energy mounts are on the way from Jegs, hopefully will get here before Friday and I'll do them Sat or Sun. If that doesn't fix it, I'm going to troubleshoot some more and if I determine I have to look at the clutch/flywheel yet again then the car is getting washed, stabil and under a cover in the garage until we move or spring happens, whatever comes first.
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Old 09-03-2014, 09:54 AM   #10
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If a bad motor mount was suspect, have you tried having someone else rev it while you watch under the hood or under the frontend to see if the motor is rising up away from the motor mount? Or you can rev it from under the hood yourself to see if the engine is rising on one side or the other. Ususally the d/s mount would go before the p/s from torque bind or twist.
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Old 09-03-2014, 09:56 AM   #11
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Honestly, I can't imagine its not a mount. Vibes at idle with the car totally still and the e-brake on but smooth to 6k if I rev it. Looks like the passenger primaries are almost touching the K member but plenty of clearance on the left. Right mount was probably on the way out for awhile and doing the engine tilts for the trans and finally being able to powershift it likely finished it off.

If I gun it by hand looking at the motor it kicks to the pass side a little which it is supposed to do but the primary damn near bounces off the K. The trans mount was just done and the one I pulled out when I did the T-45 to 3650 swap was actually in good shape. It looked like it was pretty new though, I imagine the PO did it at some point since it is the easy one.
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Old 09-03-2014, 10:07 AM   #12
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So are you saying that there is 2 different types of motor mounts in the car now? The torque throw while rev'g is correct to throw toward the p/s as that is the engine rotation direction. But, if the engine is rev'd from a idle position, a bad mount would be witnessed once that torque tilt happens, and you should be able to see the rubber seperate from the mount on the d/s or if p/s is suspect, then you would see the rubber squat or pull down away from the mount. The header should not be that close to the k-member for sure. It could be that when you hit the throttle under load that it is the header primary that is causing the vibration as it is bouncing off the k-member or the header is at all times while under load causing vibration as it is laying on the k-member (while under constant load). Can you see a wear pattern on the k-member and a wear pattern on the header primary in that same location?
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Old 09-03-2014, 10:12 AM   #13
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I can't see a damn thing in there honestly. The motor mounts are the original rubber AFIAK. The trans mount is OEM rubber and was just done but the 2 up front are the same. I'm thinking honestly that the mount is totally collapsed and metal is sitting on metal while its idleing. Even with the motor shaking a little the whole car should not vibrate like it is, not with a good set of mounts.
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Old 09-03-2014, 10:39 AM   #14
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I agree with you. I if it were me, would put the car on jack stands or ramps, chalk the rear tires, apply emergency brake, and have another person inside applying throttle and you looking up under the engine and seeing if you notice either side mount moving up (d/s) or squating down and away (p/s) so to know if it is a motor mount. You should be able to notice that movement with a drop light pointing up in both mounts. And you should be able to hear that primary hitting the k-member too. Or at least put your hand on the frame near each front tire to feel the vibration if it is the primary hitting the k-member and that being the root cause for the vibration.
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Old 09-03-2014, 11:46 AM   #15
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I know how to check them but its a pain right now and my wife can't operate a manual trans car so I can't get her to help with it in gear. Its a lot easier to do with an auto...

I can't imagine that what looks like the motor shifted over to the right and the primary literally 1/4" from the K member is ok, that's enough evidence for me. I've done them before but not on a modular like I've said.

Also the wife can't operate a manual trans so she's no help when it comes to putting it in gear with the e-brake on and the wheels chocked and seeing what happens when its goosed in 1st and then reverse which is the best way to check.

As I said before, if this thing isn't fixed by the mounts and turns out to be something in the trans again I am going to put it away and seriously SERIOUSLY consider that auto conversion I was going to do last year. I could probably get $800-$1k for the new 3650 and clutch/flywheel/shifter and crossmember. That's enough to source a good 75w and a Freakshow converter. Then its just an Bauman standalone and G2G. I'm getting ahead of myself tho.
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Old 09-03-2014, 01:27 PM   #16
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I think that it's probably the left motor mount that failed. That's how it used to be anyways, back in the day when engines had torque. Guys used to wrap a length of chain around the exhaust manifold and then around the frame rail to limit the rotation movement of the engine under hard acceleration.
It used to be very obvious when a motor mount had broken because the engine driven cooling fan would hit the fan shroud under hard acceleration.
There is method to diagnose the engine mounts but, since you already bought a set, you may as well just replace both of them.
You're fast Scotty! I'll bet that you can replace both of them in less than an hour... In your driveway!
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Old 09-03-2014, 01:43 PM   #17
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Lol I doubt that. I will be doing it in the driveway tho. Probably will take 2 or 3 hours going slow, lots of 4 letter words etc... Yeah it could be the left one that failed and its leaning over and putting all the pressure on the right one. Car is not going to move an inch until I have the mounts in hand and ready to do this. Then it'll just be enough to get it on ramps and let it cool back off.

Hopefully nothing will be too stuck. This car is damn clean underneath, I had 0 stuck bolts on the exhaust/transmission/driveshaft/anything when I first pulled the t45 out. The only crud on the bottom is from recently when I got caught in a rainstorm on the way home.

edit: I actually seem to be getting slammed with auto and home maintenance all of a sudden. Catalytic converter went on my wife's car and its making the O2 sensors crazy so that needs to get done asap, parts on order... My Expy needs plugs and COP rebuild asap which is this weekend and then this with the Mustang now. I like to think that having 3 cars would mean at least 1, usually 2 are in perfect working order haha. At least its all stuff I can do and for cheap but sheesh. Also am re-tiling a bathroom floor and redoing the tub and staining the deck in preparation to rent the place out next month. FML...
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Old 09-03-2014, 02:03 PM   #18
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Haha.
It's the same theory with multi-engine airplanes... You have more than one engine, what could go wrong? Multiple things is the answer.

Are you moving Scotty?
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Old 09-03-2014, 05:09 PM   #19
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Haha.
It's the same theory with multi-engine airplanes... You have more than one engine, what could go wrong? Multiple things is the answer.

Are you moving Scotty?
Lol yes and yes. As long as we can get a good qualified tenant at the price we need which I've talked to about 5 realtors who don't know each other and they all gave the exact same quote range and timeframe so I'm pretty confident we'll be fine.

As for an airplane with multiple engines, yeah my pig has 4x the potential for problems but its also nice when you are flying over Afghanistan and a generator goes out and you have 3 more as backup.

Found the leak on my wife's car and its the catalytic converter itself that is leaking. The flanges on the exhaust may be salvageable which would make installing a new one very easy. If not I'll get a universal and clamp it in. Then 4 plugs and wires which on that engine is literally 15 minutes start to finish and then all 4 bearings which my father in law Honda tech is doing for parts plus beer and pizza. Expy is going to be fun with all the plugs but its doable. Bleh.
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Old 09-05-2014, 11:39 AM   #20
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Passenger side done... omfg what a whore... I had to actually disassemble it and put it in in pieces and then bolt it back together under the car... nightmare. My 95 took 1.5 hours and was easy. Modulars suck...

Drivers side looks easier but we shall see. The mounts that were in there were definitely original but weren't actually too bad so hopefully this helps. They were squished down pretty good tho with the weight of the motor on them. So much fun owning a sn95 lol.

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Old 09-05-2014, 08:16 PM   #21
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Well how did it go?

I hope that you're going to report that all is well and the car is smoother than duck crap now...
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Old 09-05-2014, 09:58 PM   #22
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Got done late, let it idle and pulled it into the garage. I had to stop after the pass side and didn't get started back up until like 5. The driver's side was actually really easy all thing considered and I was BARELY able to get it installed in one piece. Unlike the passenger side one that required removal of the starter and disassembly.

Then the Benny Hill music started playing for getting both mounts to sit back down in the notches. If anyone has ever done poly mounts before, you know what I am talking about. My 95 and my foxes just really required someone to rock the motor back and forth and they both popped in. This one... took a lot more 4 letter words, some problem solving and a pry bar.

I need to get it out for a real road test but it feels much smoother just in the driveway idling and I don't want to test it out late at night when I have to wake up early tomorrow. When I pulled it out this morning, it shook when I started it. This time it was smooth when started and felt like it did before this all started happening and pulling it into the garage there was no vibes at all going uphill feathering the clutch. No longer feels like it has solid mounts at idle. The old mounts did look ok but they were definitely squished down when the full weight of the motor was on them and compared to the Energy mounts it isn't hard to see how its an upgrade.

To anyone thinking of upgrading their rubber mounts, I present the below picture of the Energy mounts vs the OEM.



These are the ones you want btw, they come in black or red poly and are the ****. Note: the generics on AM/LRS/CJP are NOT in the same league as these and even the Prothanes are not as good. The Prothanes also raise the motor up over stock which is not good for a number of reasons from stuff hitting the tunnel to driveshaft alignment. These Energy units may raise it up but only because the old rubber mounts were shot, these mounts are set at OEM height. Yeah they are pricey but they are a 100k mile item and don't get done very often... Do it once, do it right, don't cheap out on junk $40 generics in this dept. You can get these on Jegs or Summit but oddly AM/LRS/CJP don't carry them. No idea.
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Old 09-05-2014, 10:13 PM   #23
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Well it is about time you got those two small items done! You really drug that job for all it was worth! So you took a break and watched some Benny Hill did ya, and had us wait all this time for your follow-up? You should feel ashamed of yourself

Hopefully this is the fix and no more vibration. The new mounts do look more beefier in the rubber dept. Good job!

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Old 09-05-2014, 10:21 PM   #24
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Lol I ordered them Tuesday and they got installed Friday jeez...

Yeah I am hoping a nice drive tomorrow or Sunday confirms it but like I said it does feel better. And not only are these mounts poly vs rubber, they poly is ALL through the space between the 2 halves of the mount vs the rubber that looks like a little wafer. Not quite sure what Ford was thinking with them but that's what you get when you have a 1978 based platform I guess.
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Old 09-08-2014, 09:28 AM   #25
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Well the car feels way more solid. There is still a vibe but its not nearly as... all over the place and it doesn't feel like the motor is going to jump out of the engine bay anymore. Feels similar to how my 95 felt after I did the polys and it definitely is not bad enough to worry about now. Polys are going to add NVH and this is a 98 Mustang GT that has suspension work and poly bushings in other places too so w/e. Going to enjoy it till it gets cold and then use the truck for the winter.

Still actually debating on getting it professionally detailed out and then putting it up for sale in the spring. I have really started to want to get into a S197 the more the prices drop.
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Old 09-08-2014, 03:48 PM   #26
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Good to hear the problem is 90% solved. You have any idea to what the other 10% is at, being that you say it still has a little vib? I thought you were on the 2 year plan on the newer stangs? The itch is more than a scratch anymore?
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Old 09-08-2014, 07:32 PM   #27
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The other 10% just became 100% today on the way home. Car cut out at 4K in 3rd. Did it again at 5k and then again at 3200k. Here we go on the ignition/fuel merry go round. I hate this ride...

pulled code P0320, will probably make a "watch scotty want to light his car on fire" thread lol.
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Old 09-08-2014, 08:27 PM   #28
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I sometimes feel the same way with my car, if it's not one thing is another.

Only needs to last me another year and a half till I retire from active duty and they retire the Mach from DD duty.

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Old 09-08-2014, 08:41 PM   #29
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I put my input in your thread you started, I did not know you started a thread on the fault.
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Old 09-08-2014, 08:57 PM   #30
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Time for a 99-04 cobra mod
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Old 09-08-2014, 09:00 PM   #31
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Time for a 99-04 cobra mod
Hell no. Also 99-04 Cobra is really vague.
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Old 09-08-2014, 09:17 PM   #32
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Hell no. Also 99-04 Cobra is really vague.

Vague? Lol it's either a 99, 01, 03-04 lol. Either will be fine. Or Fugg it just dd a coyote.
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Old 09-08-2014, 09:28 PM   #33
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03-04 is the only cobra worth owning.

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Old 09-09-2014, 01:08 AM   #34
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03-04 is the only cobra worth owning.

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Question what are the tell tale appearance differences in the cobras? There are 3 where I live and I don't want to go down to mexico and get crapped on by a termi.

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Old 09-09-2014, 07:54 AM   #35
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Vague? Lol it's either a 99, 01, 03-04 lol. Either will be fine. Or Fugg it just dd a coyote.
Vague because you don't say "get a 87-04 GT". There is the 99, the 01 (there are noticeable differences worth mentioning), the 00R, the fake 02 Aussie version and the Termi.

And yes the 03/04 is the only one worth owning and if you have the $$$ to get an 00R you are not going to be messing around with a 98GT unless you are using it as a shell to build an alcohol dragster or something.
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motor mount jdrew Classic Mustangs 1 05-03-2012 09:03 AM

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