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Old 06-14-2015, 01:08 AM   #526
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Nope looks like your engine is toast. Time for a coyote swap
Seriously. I just need this thing to last me through college though.

Honestly if i can fix this smoking/burning oil issue, and maybe fix the AC the car will be so much more enjoyable to drive. Those are the biggest things i hate about it, i can actually smell the oil when the car idles and i have my windows down. And of course no AC in Sacramento heat.....

I found this guide to do the timing online. It doesn't seem all too bad. Now to decide if i want to attempt it some time this summer, or next.
http://www.modularheadshop.com/caminstallation.aspx
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Old 06-14-2015, 01:09 AM   #527
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Probably sooner rather than later
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Old 06-14-2015, 02:18 AM   #528
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It could also be the piston rings that are worn so I would go buy heads until you can figure out what it actually is. It would suck to do that work only to find out that it didn't fix your prob. I hope your right about the valves tho because you should be able to pickup some used heads and just swap them to keep her going through college.

What color is the smoke? Are you thinking it's the head gaskets giving out?
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Old 06-14-2015, 10:16 AM   #529
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I don't think the oil has anything to do with the spark plugs i'm pretty sure that's a completely different issue, starting with the amount of ware and tear on the motor, detonation, high RPM's and heat. JMO

You can replace the valve stem seals without removing the head, in fact you do it the same way you would in a pushrod motor.

Bring the piston up to the top of the compression stroke, remove the spark plug, insert you air supply, remove the cam retainer. you will need a special spring compressor but that's about it

As far as worn rings one sign of a motor with bad rings, is it will require longer than normal cranking to start. you can also check for compression again JMO
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Old 06-14-2015, 10:31 AM   #530
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It could also be the piston rings that are worn so I would go buy heads until you can figure out what it actually is. It would suck to do that work only to find out that it didn't fix your prob. I hope your right about the valves tho because you should be able to pickup some used heads and just swap them to keep her going through college.

What color is the smoke? Are you thinking it's the head gaskets giving out?

The thing is it only smokes after the car sits on idle for a bit. So like when Straybullitt saw it we were sitting in a parking lot then started to drive over and that's when he saw it, it went away after we were driving. That's more than likely the valve seals. Rings usually you see it more often.

It's blue smoke. I don't think it's the head gaskets.


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Old 06-14-2015, 10:38 AM   #531
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Sounds like valve stem seals to me
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Old 06-14-2015, 10:49 AM   #532
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If the rings were the problem, wouldn't there be a loss of compression?


Edit: I completely misread the post above that said that.

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Old 06-14-2015, 11:19 AM   #533
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I don't think the oil has anything to do with the spark plugs i'm pretty sure that's a completely different issue, starting with the amount of ware and tear on the motor, detonation, high RPM's and heat. JMO

You can replace the valve stem seals without removing the head, in fact you do it the same way you would in a pushrod motor.

Bring the piston up to the top of the compression stroke, remove the spark plug, insert you air supply, remove the cam retainer. you will need a special spring compressor but that's about it

As far as worn rings one sign of a motor with bad rings, is it will require longer than normal cranking to start. you can also check for compression again JMO
I agree. I don't think that the spark plugs are the cause of the smoking. It is just an old school diagnosis method that was used before we had 02 sensors and wideband. If you remove all of the plugs, and lay them out like they were in the engine, it is generally very easy to tell which cylinder (or cylinders) is having issues. That followed by a proper compression test is usually enough to determine the health of the engine.
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Old 06-14-2015, 12:28 PM   #534
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I'm a complete newbie with this, i can do suspension but give me an engine and you just see a big wtf look on my face. If i didn't have to pull the heads off i may be able to do it. I have seen that you have to put in air though so the valve doesn't drop. Where exactly do you put the air supply? I got some magnets, could those work to hold it up? lol
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Old 06-14-2015, 12:57 PM   #535
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You use a compression tester hose and hook it up to an air compressor. When both valves are in the closed position, with the cylinder filled with compressed air, again, in theory, the compressed air should hold the valves up while you compress the valve springs remove the valve spring retainers, the valve springs, replace the stem seals, and then put it back together again.
When the piston is at Top Dead Center, of the power stroke, the piston will be at the very top of the cylinder (So that the valve doesn't fall inside of the cylinder!) and both the intake and exhaust valves will be in the fully closed position. Then you just add the compressed air, and hopefully it will be just a matter of getting the springs off and replacing the seals.
Harbor Freight or the auto parts stores usually have the valve spring compressor that works while accessing the valve from the top of the cylinder head.
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Old 06-14-2015, 01:18 PM   #536
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if the rings were bad it would be doing it all the time, especially cold.
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Old 06-14-2015, 01:23 PM   #537
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To do valves with the heads on you put 100 psi into the cylinder via the spark plug hole and then just change them like normal.

And soccer, if you can do suspension you can do engine work provided you have the tools. It's just a bunch of parts and fasteners when it comes down to it.

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Old 06-14-2015, 01:38 PM   #538
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Yea I just look at this and see a lot of painful work lol
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Old 06-14-2015, 01:39 PM   #539
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I've got all summer though. So maybe.


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Old 06-14-2015, 01:51 PM   #540
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... Still say engine is toast..,
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Old 06-14-2015, 01:53 PM   #541
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Look at how much easier the drivers side looks compared to the passenger side though..
lol.

For me, the hardest part of a project like this, is just thinking about it. Once you get started, yeah it's still a pain, but everything seems to move right along, and before you know it, the job is done.
You have plenty of technical support on this website, another vehicle to drive, and a long, hot summer to do this.

So get started already!
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Old 06-14-2015, 01:56 PM   #542
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I'll start when my dad comes back from Greece. That way if I hit a snag I can get some help lol. Until then I'll try and diagnose the power drain on the battery.


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Old 06-14-2015, 02:00 PM   #543
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The battery drain problem is easy. You need a new alternator!
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Old 06-14-2015, 02:14 PM   #544
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You still don't have a new alternator? Lol
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Old 06-14-2015, 02:21 PM   #545
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Yea one thing after another. But im going to replace one of my grounds to the body first since it's frayed. Then check it. That'll be cheaper than an alternator.


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Old 06-14-2015, 02:22 PM   #546
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Yea one thing after another. But im going to replace one of my grounds to the body first since it's frayed. Then check it. That'll be cheaper than an alternator.


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Old 06-14-2015, 02:27 PM   #547
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I need a damn engine swap. But gotta make this thing survive until after college.


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Old 06-14-2015, 04:10 PM   #548
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Crown Vic swap mang.

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Old 06-14-2015, 04:14 PM   #549
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Or..............
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Old 06-14-2015, 04:17 PM   #550
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Torn paper?

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Old 06-14-2015, 04:31 PM   #551
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Look for someone selling a blown coyote and pick it up, then slowly rebuild it

I saw one the other day for $1500 on Craigslist. Then when I went back it was gone. Should have picked it up vs second guessing myself

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Old 06-14-2015, 05:05 PM   #552
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Look for someone selling a blown coyote and pick it up, then slowly rebuild it

I saw one the other day for $1500 on Craigslist. Then when I went back it was gone. Should have picked it up vs second guessing myself

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I really want to do that. Just nowhere to keep it right now.


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Old 06-14-2015, 05:06 PM   #553
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Torn paper?

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Damnit. It works on the website


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Old 06-14-2015, 05:08 PM   #554
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Oh and im extremely tight on cash now since I'll be moving into an apartment during the school year..... Like might not be able to afford the 1/2 off watts link I was going to get from a deal with FTR (still hoping for it though)


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Old 06-14-2015, 07:06 PM   #555
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Yeah the Coyote for a road racer is prolly the best way to go. Always the running lower mileage F150 Coyotes in the $2500 range. You have to get a few things but still...
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Old 06-14-2015, 07:40 PM   #556
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Yeah the Coyote for a road racer is prolly the best way to go. Always the running lower mileage F150 Coyotes in the $2500 range. You have to get a few things but still...

I've seen A LOT of wrecked coyotes on Copart lately, in that price range. 450ish whp with bolt one and E85 should hold over for a while until it gets built. But still, nowhere to get the donor car and keep it then need a daily to swap it.


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Old 06-14-2015, 07:42 PM   #557
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Well you can always look forward to it. Or just land a decent job and buy a 11-14 GT...
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Old 06-14-2015, 07:57 PM   #558
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Well you can always look forward to it. Or just land a decent job and buy a 11-14 GT...

Either way this car I'm keeping and it's turning into a race car. A better job will just increase how much I spend on it.


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Old 06-14-2015, 08:19 PM   #559
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if the rings were bad it would be doing it all the time, especially cold.

^Yup and if it was something like where the rings aligned just right, that would be constant too. That's pretty rare though.

If you do compression tests on all cylinders and they are all about the same (within spec), it might be easiest to just pickup a set of good used heads and swap. I say that because I don't know what it costs to refresh valves seats or guides.

I've heard of some people have a really rich idle with email tunes, but you wouldn't think the smoke would be blue.


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Old 06-14-2015, 08:26 PM   #560
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It still sounds like it is running good so hopefully it will be a simple matter of replacing the stem seals. A compression test is definitely in order here though. If there is a bad cylinder, then there really isn't any point in doing the seals.
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