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Old 08-30-2014, 05:27 PM   #36
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Old 08-30-2014, 05:27 PM   #37
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Lol noob. Jk.

Yeah most new cars you have to screw in the rear piston, not press it in. There are "foncy" tools to do this. I just use needle nose pliers spread out and turn them in by hand.
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Old 08-30-2014, 05:31 PM   #38
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My dad helped me. We actually used a huge c clamp and vice grips.


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Old 08-30-2014, 06:39 PM   #39
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So I have very little brake pressure right now, we bled them and there is no air in the lines.... Wtf is going on?


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Old 08-30-2014, 06:42 PM   #40
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How much did you bleed it? Did you swap the new lines on or no? Does the pedal just sink to the floor?
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Old 08-30-2014, 06:45 PM   #41
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Didn't swap the lines, just bled them to get rid of the air that was in the lines from when we had to loosen the valve to reduce pressure on the piston. There is very little pressure. Like I have to put my foot to the floor to stop the car at 10mph


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Old 08-30-2014, 06:51 PM   #42
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Sounds like you still have air in the system. How did you bleed them?
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Old 08-30-2014, 07:30 PM   #43
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I was in the car, put my foot to the brake and then my dad opened the valve, once he closed it I took my foot off the brake. We might just go through the entire thing tomorrow again.


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Old 08-30-2014, 07:35 PM   #44
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Did you pump it back up after he closed it off? How many times did you do this?
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Old 08-30-2014, 07:38 PM   #45
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I pumped it 3 times between each time the valve was opened. Did this at least 5-7 times each caliper.


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Old 08-30-2014, 11:06 PM   #46
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Something I forgot to mention earlier. When stationary and on the brakes I can hear some sort of sucking noise from the front end. Hard to describe, but it is coming more from the engine bay. It goes away when I'm off the brake.


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Old 08-30-2014, 11:18 PM   #47
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Does the pedal get really stiff when you pump it with the engine off? When you were bleeding it did it get really stiff in those three pumps? What all did you touch/remove when doing the brakes?
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Old 08-30-2014, 11:41 PM   #48
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Does the pedal get really stiff when you pump it with the engine off? When you were bleeding it did it get really stiff in those three pumps? What all did you touch/remove when doing the brakes?

No. I never felt it stiffen up. All we did was open the valve a little to relieve pressure on the pistons so we could push them back. Never touched the brake in the process though.

So my guess is there is still air in the lines. It has stopping power, the pedal is just really soft and squishy.


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Old 08-30-2014, 11:52 PM   #49
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01 Bullitt Driveshaft Install

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No. I never felt it stiffen up. All we did was open the valve a little to relieve pressure on the pistons so we could push them back. Never touched the brake in the process though.

So my guess is there is still air in the lines. It has stopping power, the pedal is just really soft and squishy.


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Yeah sounds like air in the lines

Was the master cylinder ever empty?
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Old 08-31-2014, 12:01 AM   #50
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No, we kept putting more in while bleeding the brakes.


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Old 08-31-2014, 12:14 AM   #51
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When you pressed the piston back in did it squirt fluid out or suck in air? It definitely sounds like you guys sucked in a lot of air. I would keep bleeding it and go from there. Bleed it a lot.
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Old 08-31-2014, 09:23 AM   #52
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Just start with the furthest line. And keep pushing the brakes. I wanna say passenger rear is first. Did it with mine. But all I did was a flush. I did have an issue once that when I change pads my master cylinder went out. Had to replace that. But that was on a v6 96 mustang. Good luck hope it works out.


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Old 08-31-2014, 09:36 AM   #53
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You either have air in the master cylinder or the lines. In the process of bleeding the system, pop the cap off the reservoir and go to the furthest point of bleeding and that is the passenger rear, after that go to the driver rear, then to the passenger front then finish at the driver front. If you have a 2nd person in the car pushing the pedal while you are bleeding each line, ensure that the second person is pumping a couple times as it bleeds and you tell them to hold (pedal depressed) while you tighten the bleed valve. I have seen people tell someone to push and not hold when tightening and that allows the air to travel back up into the line before you get to tighten the valve. You may need to do this a couple times until you get the feel back in the pedal. Or you can go buy a power bleeder in store or on-line.
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Old 08-31-2014, 10:23 AM   #54
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We are going to bleed the brakes again today and see where we get.


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Old 08-31-2014, 12:57 PM   #55
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Process to do a 2 person bleed:

-Person in the seat applies pressure to the brake pedal and holds
-Person by the caliper opens the bleeder valve
-Person in the seat continues to hold pressure on the pedal as it goes to the floor
-Person by the caliper closes the bleeder valve and lets the person in the seat know its closed
-Person in the seat pumps on the brake pedal till it comes all the way back up and is firm

Repeat this process until there is a steady flow of clean fluid flowing out of the bleeder as the brake pedal goes to the floor.

Or just buy a power bleeder for $60 from Jegs or Summit. That's what I did and I bleed the brakes every time I change them by myself. With the Ford specific 3 prong attachment you just get 15 psi on the cap and open the bleeder port till it flows and then close and then move onto the next one. I will honestly never ever bleed with the 2 person method again after having the power bleeder.
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Old 08-31-2014, 01:25 PM   #56
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Process to do a 2 person bleed:

-Person in the seat applies pressure to the brake pedal and holds
-Person by the caliper opens the bleeder valve
-Person in the seat continues to hold pressure on the pedal as it goes to the floor
-Person by the caliper closes the bleeder valve and lets the person in the seat know its closed
-Person in the seat pumps on the brake pedal till it comes all the way back up and is firm

Repeat this process until there is a steady flow of clean fluid flowing out of the bleeder as the brake pedal goes to the floor.

Or just buy a power bleeder for $60 from Jegs or Summit. That's what I did and I bleed the brakes every time I change them by myself. With the Ford specific 3 prong attachment you just get 15 psi on the cap and open the bleeder port till it flows and then close and then move onto the next one. I will honestly never ever bleed with the 2 person method again after having the power bleeder.
I have to get one of those!
The last time that I bled my brakes, I paid a 13 year old kid $5 to sit in my truck and operate the brake pedal. He did a good job!
Lol
I was even younger than that when I did it for my dad the first time.
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Old 08-31-2014, 03:41 PM   #57
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Ok today we started by bleeding the master cylinder itself. Well just a few pumps and valve openings were necessary to bring back full pedal feel in the brakes.

She's all back to normal. Good timing since I move back into my college campus for school tomorrow and classes starting Tuesday lol


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Old 08-31-2014, 03:43 PM   #58
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AWESOME!!!
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Old 08-31-2014, 05:30 PM   #59
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I have to get one of those!
The last time that I bled my brakes, I paid a 13 year old kid $5 to sit in my truck and operate the brake pedal. He did a good job!
Lol
I was even younger than that when I did it for my dad the first time.
http://www.amazon.com/Motive-Product.../dp/B0002KM5ME

This is the one I got. You HAVE to get the 3 prong adapter, the universal fitting will always leak. This thing makes bleeding brakes so easy its not even funny and there is no chance of any air getting sucked back in during a mis-communication.
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Old 08-31-2014, 05:43 PM   #60
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Amazon.com: Motive Products Custom Ford Power Bleeder(0107) Ford 3 Tab: Automotive

This is the one I got. You HAVE to get the 3 prong adapter, the universal fitting will always leak. This thing makes bleeding brakes so easy its not even funny and there is no chance of any air getting sucked back in during a mis-communication.
I know someone who has these and they really like them for bleeding brakes. I was going to give them a try when i get my Russell Stainless brake lines (out of stock when ordered, so no idea when they will be here).
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Old 08-31-2014, 05:47 PM   #61
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So i did another 2-3 shift today coming out of a spiral onramp, that one went in like butter, as well as the 3-4 soon after. But then later today i did another 2-3 shift when passing someone on a one lane each way road (broken yellow line so it was legal), and that one didn't want to go in. So when the forks aren't giving me issues the shifts do go in better.

Looks like i still need that T-56 lol
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Old 08-31-2014, 06:33 PM   #62
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You can always get a fresh 3650 from the evilbays for $1060 shipped to your door and swap it out in an afternoon. Or a more "race" built one for $300-$400 more.
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Old 08-31-2014, 06:38 PM   #63
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You can always get a fresh 3650 from the evilbays for $1060 shipped to your door and swap it out in an afternoon. Or a more "race" built one for $300-$400 more.

I was thinking of going with the T-56 with the 2.97 ratio now. It's geared a bit more toward road racing and it has a .5 6th gear. So that'll help with the 4.10s again. It would be a Magnum so already good for 700+ ft-lbs


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Old 08-31-2014, 07:32 PM   #64
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The only issue I see with the Magnums is that they have very small teeth on the synchros, if you miss too many shifts you can blow them up. I've seen guys who actively look for older T-56s out of Cobras and build them up vs getting a Magnum. Allows for use of a MGW shifter and you get the beefier synchros.
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Old 10-17-2014, 04:36 PM   #65
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Ok i'm reviving this thread and changed the name of it. Figured i'd use it as my official build thread. Working right now so i'll try to update it with more later. But a few days ago i ordered my latest mods and they have already arrived. I'll let the guessing game begin. If you remember that i planned on a supercharger, that fell though because the kit was crap. So back to suspension.
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Old 10-17-2014, 04:37 PM   #66
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Ok i'm reviving this thread and changed the name of it. Figured i'd use it as my official build thread. Working right now so i'll try to update it with more later. But a few days ago i ordered my latest mods and they have already arrived. I'll let the guessing game begin. If you remember that i planned on a supercharger, that fell though because the kit was crap. So back to suspension.
Nitrous kit, yup that's what it is, suspension blah

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Old 10-17-2014, 04:40 PM   #67
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Nitrous kit, yup that's what it is, suspension blah

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I'm getting the car ready for Autocross season, i also want to do a few road races. There are some events at a smaller track near by called Thunderhill. After some of those i want to try some bigger tracks like Infineon and Laguna Seca.
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Old 10-17-2014, 04:42 PM   #68
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I'm getting the car ready for Autocross season, i also want to do a few road races. There are some events at a smaller track near by called Thunderhill. After some of those i want to try some bigger tracks like Infineon and Laguna Seca.
I know bud, I was just Messing around. I have no clue what it could be

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Old 10-17-2014, 04:43 PM   #69
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Also installed these the other day. Got a good deal on a used kit so i went for it. Took the videos for instagram, which is why its vertical.
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Old 10-17-2014, 04:44 PM   #70
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Lol.
Anyone can clearly see that it's coilovers in that box...
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