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Old 03-16-2016, 03:39 PM   #1051
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Different question... I like the fact that these are multi spoke, and silver is a nice clean slate... The design basically works well with any color, so i want to dip these crazy colors since they will be track wheels. The Bullitts with the dish wouldn't look that good dipped since they need contrast with the lip....... I'm thinking bronze as the first color, thoughts? Got PLENTY of time to decide lol.
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Old 03-16-2016, 04:15 PM   #1052
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Bronze on DHG would look real good.

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Old 03-16-2016, 04:34 PM   #1053
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Bronze on DHG would look real good.

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I don't think i've seen a bronze set up on DHG, but i just keep thinking it should be a nice combo. Probably won't dip them till tires are mounted on them. So we will see how long that takes lol. My friend works at a tire place and gets discounts. So i'm having him price check some tires for me and see if i can get a hook up lol.
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Old 03-16-2016, 08:54 PM   #1054
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My wheels are shot. Why I am mad I didn't jump on those OEM 00R rims.

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I meant keep the wheels that you presently have for a square setup, if you ever want to do some track days/autocross. And get a new set of wheels for more of an everyday setup.
I don't use nice wheels for autocross because there is always the potential for rolling a tire off of the rim and destroying it.
I have all of my best tires mounted on my crappiest wheels! Lol
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Old 03-16-2016, 09:23 PM   #1055
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Htrz 3 tires are cheap and from everything I have read they are a good street tire. And at $100 less than Mickeys and $75 less than BFG...

But still paying a premium for 18s.

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Yeah their still a little more than the 17s but about 20-25 a tire. With the wheels being so cheap, I should be able to be under $850 without mounting, so about $930 mounted, balanced, and installed. No too bad for me since I can run Sumis or something like that and be happy with them. If I add power or whatever down the road then I would change the rears anyway.

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Old 03-16-2016, 09:25 PM   #1056
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Yeah their still a little more than the 17s but about 20-25 a tire. With the wheels being so cheap, I should be able to be under $850 without mounting, so about $930 mounted, balanced, and installed. No too bad for me since I can run Sumis or something like that and be happy with them. If I add power or whatever down the road then I would change the rears anyway.

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If I could make the 275 40 18 sumis work then its cheaper. But they will be a little stretched on the 10" rears like my other car.

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Old 03-16-2016, 09:40 PM   #1057
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I meant keep the wheels that you presently have for a square setup, if you ever want to do some track days/autocross. And get a new set of wheels for more of an everyday setup.
I don't use nice wheels for autocross because there is always the potential for rolling a tire off of the rim and destroying it.
I have all of my best tires mounted on my crappiest wheels! Lol
Ah, I get what you are saying. I am keeping these original Ultra Lites no matter what, they are staying with the car.

I have found, however, that LRS/SVE is now offering 18x9.5" replicas of the 00R rims. If I get 18s, it will likely be those all around now that I'm finding other 18" options to hit near the $1150-$1200 mark of 17s with the MT wheels.

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Yeah their still a little more than the 17s but about 20-25 a tire. With the wheels being so cheap, I should be able to be under $850 without mounting, so about $930 mounted, balanced, and installed. No too bad for me since I can run Sumis or something like that and be happy with them. If I add power or whatever down the road then I would change the rears anyway.

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How did you get $281 for all 4 wheels btw? Some of the 18x9s were under $100 as well? I only saw them for $99 cheapest and then 18x10s for $50-$75 depending.

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If I could make the 275 40 18 sumis work then its cheaper. But they will be a little stretched on the 10" rears like my other car.

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275/40/18 BFG Comp 2s fit perfectly on a 10" wide rim. The Sumis will be a little stretched but it will not be "hella flush" or anything.

I paid $1100 or so for 18s with BFGs in 2014 hitting an AFS sale and when those BFG tires were cheaper too. Doing it for under $1k with 18s is great.
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Old 03-17-2016, 03:27 AM   #1058
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Ah, I get what you are saying. I am keeping these original Ultra Lites no matter what, they are staying with the car.

I have found, however, that LRS/SVE is now offering 18x9.5" replicas of the 00R rims. If I get 18s, it will likely be those all around now that I'm finding other 18" options to hit near the $1150-$1200 mark of 17s with the MT wheels.



How did you get $281 for all 4 wheels btw? Some of the 18x9s were under $100 as well? I only saw them for $99 cheapest and then 18x10s for $50-$75 depending.



275/40/18 BFG Comp 2s fit perfectly on a 10" wide rim. The Sumis will be a little stretched but it will not be "hella flush" or anything.

I paid $1100 or so for 18s with BFGs in 2014 hitting an AFS sale and when those BFG tires were cheaper too. Doing it for under $1k with 18s is great.
The MMD silver 551c wheels on Tuesday night early Wed morning around 1a, were priced the following: 18x9= $99.99ea ($200 approx) 18x10=$49.99ea($100 approx)
6% forum discount= $18 and some change, so yeah $281.

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Old 03-17-2016, 03:31 AM   #1059
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Here is a screen shot of my order. So I lied, its $281.96, lol. I think Im gonna go the Sumi route with the 275 40 18s

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Old 03-17-2016, 01:39 PM   #1060
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A 275 Sumi will be too narrow for a 10" IMO. I run a 285 sumi on my 10" currently and it is narrower than i would like. Since they run about the same as Nitto for width, thats why i probably will go with 295 Nittos for the new wheels... I know that 275 Dunlops fit perfectly on a 10" though.
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Old 03-17-2016, 02:17 PM   #1061
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275 BFGs fit perfectly on a 10" wheel too. Like... perfect. Slightly more than flush with the bulge, great grip, price is decent... but... substantially more than the MT Street Comps now. They used to be $20 less. Those MT are $179 shipped on Amazon right now for a 275/35/18 which is impossible to beat anywhere. Amazon is kind of... my go to right now.

As for me. I'm getting these.

They are my favorite wheels of all time and now they are available as replicas that are actually the correct OEM size and backspacing.

https://lmr.com/item/WK-9653R/mustan...95-9404-silver

Unless I can find another deal on CL like the one I passed up last year for $700 for OEMs with good tires on them 2 hours away from me and only a small nick on one rim. FML...

I'm going to assume Sumi 275s HTRZ3 would fit ok on those but for $15 more per tire I could get the MT which is likely what I would do. Priced it out, $1200 before mount/balance getting those rims and the MT 275/35/18s.
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Old 03-17-2016, 03:34 PM   #1062
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275 BFGs fit perfectly on a 10" wheel too. Like... perfect. Slightly more than flush with the bulge, great grip, price is decent... but... substantially more than the MT Street Comps now. They used to be $20 less. Those MT are $179 shipped on Amazon right now for a 275/35/18 which is impossible to beat anywhere. Amazon is kind of... my go to right now.

As for me. I'm getting these.

They are my favorite wheels of all time and now they are available as replicas that are actually the correct OEM size and backspacing.

https://lmr.com/item/WK-9653R/mustan...95-9404-silver

Unless I can find another deal on CL like the one I passed up last year for $700 for OEMs with good tires on them 2 hours away from me and only a small nick on one rim. FML...

I'm going to assume Sumi 275s HTRZ3 would fit ok on those but for $15 more per tire I could get the MT which is likely what I would do. Priced it out, $1200 before mount/balance getting those rims and the MT 275/35/18s.

Check Summit Racing before pulling the trigger on the MT street comps. I bought mine there for $644 shipped. 2 - 315's and 2 - 275's.


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Old 03-17-2016, 03:58 PM   #1063
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275 BFGs fit perfectly on a 10" wheel too. Like... perfect. Slightly more than flush with the bulge, great grip, price is decent... but... substantially more than the MT Street Comps now. They used to be $20 less. Those MT are $179 shipped on Amazon right now for a 275/35/18 which is impossible to beat anywhere. Amazon is kind of... my go to right now.

As for me. I'm getting these.

They are my favorite wheels of all time and now they are available as replicas that are actually the correct OEM size and backspacing.

https://lmr.com/item/WK-9653R/mustan...95-9404-silver

Unless I can find another deal on CL like the one I passed up last year for $700 for OEMs with good tires on them 2 hours away from me and only a small nick on one rim. FML...

I'm going to assume Sumi 275s HTRZ3 would fit ok on those but for $15 more per tire I could get the MT which is likely what I would do. Priced it out, $1200 before mount/balance getting those rims and the MT 275/35/18s.
I've honestly never been a huge fan of the Cobra R wheels. But certain cars do pull them off well. That isn't a bad price though. Around what my in route AMRs would cost at full price... Which BTW are estimated to be here Tuesday.
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Old 03-19-2016, 11:38 AM   #1064
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Tear down begins. Probably going to pull the diffuser off and paint it black while its up here.
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Old 03-19-2016, 12:29 PM   #1065
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Ok, got the front crossmember thing off, and the H section of the mid pipe, the rest won't be in the way. Next thing is the Torque Arm tonight after work and gym. I'll take more pics then.
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Old 03-19-2016, 12:49 PM   #1066
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I didn't know you had longtubes. Love the look of newedge booty lol.


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Old 03-19-2016, 01:14 PM   #1067
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I didn't know you had longtubes. Love the look of newedge booty lol.


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I don't lol. The H pipe is 2 sections (3 pieces technically), the section that goes up to the stock headers is still on the car, its not in the way of getting the trans out. And those are the PITA ones to install cause of leaks, so i'm leaving them lol.

I can get more pics later.
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Old 03-19-2016, 01:34 PM   #1068
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I don't lol. The H pipe is 2 sections (3 pieces technically), the section that goes up to the stock headers is still on the car, its not in the way of getting the trans out. And those are the PITA ones to install cause of leaks, so i'm leaving them lol.

I can get more pics later.

Oh haha whoops. I does look like a LT midpipe lol.




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Old 03-19-2016, 01:38 PM   #1069
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This is it

43969 MAC Off Road H-Pipe for 99-04 GT
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Old 03-19-2016, 01:41 PM   #1070
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That's not a bad price either really. My midpipe sits really low at the connection to the cat back. It's the only thing that scrapes since I've lowered it.


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Old 03-19-2016, 01:43 PM   #1071
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It was cheaper when i bought it almost 2 years ago. Mine scrapes like crazy, so many scrape marks on the bottom of it. I literally bought the cheapest H pipe i could find.
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Old 03-19-2016, 01:48 PM   #1072
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It was cheaper when i bought it almost 2 years ago. Mine scrapes like crazy, so many scrape marks on the bottom of it. I literally bought the cheapest H pipe i could find.

Lol to be fair tho, you're a good bit lower than me. My future goals are still MM coilovers, but I'm still in baby step mode lol.


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Old 03-19-2016, 01:53 PM   #1073
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Lol to be fair tho, you're a good bit lower than me. My future goals are still MM coilovers, but I'm still in baby step mode lol.


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I might eventually sell my current coil over set up for a different one. MM has a lot of different coil over set ups, they came out with a new one recently that has their own branded shocks and struts. I may go with that at one point.
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Old 03-19-2016, 01:54 PM   #1074
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Do you have the setup that uses the stock K member?


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Old 03-19-2016, 02:02 PM   #1075
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Do you have the setup that uses the stock K member?


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Yeah the coil over kits aren't dependent on the K member or the A arms, they will bolt up to either stock or tubular... But since i have the coil overs my next suspension pieces most likely will be the MM K member and A arms.
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Old 03-19-2016, 08:53 PM   #1076
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Small spacer in front and negative offset to clear the fender if you are low like i am... So the plan is a very small hub centric spacer when i figure out how much clearance i need. Then ARP extended studs to ensure they don't break lol



This is my current 18x10 with a 285/35-18 on it. -1.4* offset on the car currently. New wheels are the same offset. It cleared, but hit the sway bar on full lock.... But i wouldn't go full lock on a race track or autocross

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Old 03-20-2016, 02:40 PM   #1077
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Such a pain in the *** to take this thing out
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Old 03-20-2016, 03:45 PM   #1078
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And it started raining
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Old 03-20-2016, 05:04 PM   #1079
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Got nearly all of the bell housing bolts broken free. I have all of the crossmember bolts broken free also. Just struggling with this damn starter lol. I'm at the infamous top bolt.


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Old 03-20-2016, 06:09 PM   #1080
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For the top bolt make yourself a super long extension and go in from in front of the motor. You do not need to put it back in when done.

For the bellhousing bolts. A solid 3-4 feet worth of extensions and a universal attached to a breaker bar is your friend. Tilt the trans down as far as it will go, reach up and hold the socket on the bolt and have a buddy work the breaker/ratchet. They should come right out.

The real trick is lining everything up going back in with the integrated bellhousing. Flashlight shining in through the clutch fork hole in the bellhousing and using that as a window to see wth is going on is about as good as you can hope for. Its really not terrible. If I can do it fast anyone can.

Oh... also... obviously make sure to use the input shaft alignment tool and make sure it slides in and out freely. You have to tighten up the clutch bolts slowly and keep moving the tool in and out to ensure it is not binding up.

Trying to think of anything else...
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Old 03-20-2016, 06:23 PM   #1081
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What do techs do in the shop for the top bolt and lining them back up when putting it back in? Basically the same, or does having it on a lift change things?


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Old 03-20-2016, 06:41 PM   #1082
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Got it
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Old 03-20-2016, 06:42 PM   #1083
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Yay!

Like I said, you can leave the top bolt out. I ran the blue one the entire time I had it with 2 bolts and no issues ever.
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Old 03-20-2016, 06:46 PM   #1084
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Oh, the starter. I thought you were removing bolts on the tranny. That's why I was asking lol.


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Old 03-20-2016, 06:55 PM   #1085
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Originally Posted by rcodemach1 View Post
Oh, the starter. I thought you were removing bolts on the tranny. That's why I was asking lol.


IG: @rcodemach1
They are much easier on a lift. Also, the tool guys make adaptor extensions that go from a 1/2 drive ratchet to a 3/8 socket specifically for trans bolts. You can sit at the back of the transmission with that extension and run the bolts out with a 1/2 impact while having a shorter 3/8 wobbly socket on the front.
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