Ok so today i installed my Aluminum Driveshaft. Let me say this first of all, if you plan to install a Panhard Bar and Torque Arm into your Mustang, DO THE DRIVESHAFT FIRST. Oh my god it was such a pain in the ass to work around. Such a pain in the ass that when i pulled out the stock driveshaft i had no choice but to let my tranny fluid drain out since i couldn't put the other in time (garage is angled a bit so i couldn't get it to face nose down without having zero room to work).
All in all, it definitely felt lighter when i was putting it in. I'm looking forward to setting my car back to its race tune and O/R exhaust on since i literally brought it from the smog place and jacked it straight up and got to work. I have pictures of the install on my phone so i'll put those up after this post.
Anyway, probably a good thing i let the tranny drain out, lets me change the fluid and put the right amount in since i know it was overfilled like all 99-04 manuals.
Plan for tomorrow......... Brake rotors and pads, and then bolting my O/R exhaust and putting my stock midpipe back up in the attic for 2 years.
It was a pain in the ass. My dad helped me, i ended up dropping the entire torque arm since its just 4 small tabs that are welded to the SFCs that bolt to the Torque Arm.
Lol
That's the "Scotty method" of refilling the trans.
There is a fill plug on the side of the transmission for those who don't want to tear apart the interior of the car. You have to pump the fluid in.
It is a more accurate way of refilling with exactly 3.2 quarts, than with a pump, though. With the pump, you have to kind of guess at how much transmission fluid stays inside of the pump during the refill.
Got the exhaust on, tranny fluid changed, and the front rotors/ pads. They gave me a harder time than I thought. Will finish up the rears tomorrow (today technically)
The caliper bracket bolts were likely stuck. I had to use a 18" breaker to get them off mine the first time I did them.
As for the trans, that method is the easiest and fastest way to do the fluid. By the time you get the car in the air and do the pump setup and pull the side plug you can remove 8 bolts and pull the shifter out. Also makes measuring exactly 3.2 quarts a breeze.
I know you probably already did the fluid but a synthetic fluid is actually not recommended by Tremec especially Royal Purple. Tremec actually says to avoid RP specifically. Recommended fluid from Tremec themselves is a non-synthetic "Synchromesh". GM stuff is pricey but is what is used in the Corvettes. I use the $8/bottle Pennzoil stuff from Autozone and my fresh 3650 literally falls into 2nd and 3rd at 6k RPM.
No "secret sauce" not crazy ass additives, just 3.2 quarts of that for a trans that shifts damn smooth. Still slightly notchy at lower RPMs but at high RPM it feels like a T-5.
As far as the driveshaft, yeah that looks like a hooker and a half with the TA/PH setup. Getting the correct torque on the pinion flange is important (75-90) and doing it in stages is as well. I'm thinking this may be one reason I have a vibe issue right now and I'm going to re-torque my pinion flange this week. Also using a good lithium based grease on the yoke is important. If you've never heard a tailshaft seal squeal from lack of lubrication, it sounds like you're slowly murdering something as you drive lol.
Mobil 1 synthetic is one of the fluids recommended by Tremec for use in the 3650 as well as Syncromesh.
The problem with some of the synthetic fluids (RP) is that they have too high a sulphur content and it will destroy the synchro's in a very short time on higher mileage transmissions.
Out of all the research I did about the tranny fluid I found that more people go with the Pennzoil synchromesh so that's what i did. But could not find it anywhere but the dealer and they charged an arm and a leg.
As for the brakes, the bigger problem I had was that little pin that slides into the bottom of the caliper and holds it on the bracket.
The main issue with the DS was taking everything else apart to get to it, that was a PITA. Eventually dropped the back part of the TA and was able to get 80lbs of torque on it. It does feel a lot smoother now though.
Also, these rear brakes are the ****tiest design I've ever seen. And the ****ing rotors won't fit between the ****ing pads. 3 hours and I still haven't been able to get one ****ing side done.
Also, these rear brakes are the ****tiest design I've ever seen. And the ****ing rotors won't fit between the ****ing pads. 3 hours and I still haven't been able to get one ****ing side done.
Yeah most new cars you have to screw in the rear piston, not press it in. There are "foncy" tools to do this. I just use needle nose pliers spread out and turn them in by hand.
So I have very little brake pressure right now, we bled them and there is no air in the lines.... Wtf is going on?
Bullitts are better than Bullets
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Mustang Evolution Forum
2.1M posts
50.8K members
Since 2003
A forum community dedicated to Ford Mustang owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, horsepower, modifications, troubleshooting, racing, and more!