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Old 08-28-2014, 11:01 PM   #1
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2001 Bullitt Build Thread

Ok so today i installed my Aluminum Driveshaft. Let me say this first of all, if you plan to install a Panhard Bar and Torque Arm into your Mustang, DO THE DRIVESHAFT FIRST. Oh my god it was such a pain in the *** to work around. Such a pain in the *** that when i pulled out the stock driveshaft i had no choice but to let my tranny fluid drain out since i couldn't put the other in time (garage is angled a bit so i couldn't get it to face nose down without having zero room to work).

All in all, it definitely felt lighter when i was putting it in. I'm looking forward to setting my car back to its race tune and O/R exhaust on since i literally brought it from the smog place and jacked it straight up and got to work. I have pictures of the install on my phone so i'll put those up after this post.

Anyway, probably a good thing i let the tranny drain out, lets me change the fluid and put the right amount in since i know it was overfilled like all 99-04 manuals.

Plan for tomorrow......... Brake rotors and pads, and then bolting my O/R exhaust and putting my stock midpipe back up in the attic for 2 years.
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Old 08-28-2014, 11:03 PM   #2
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Old 08-28-2014, 11:28 PM   #3
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That does look more difficult having to snake the drive shaft through all of the torque arm apparatus and such... Especially if you did it alone.

3.2 quarts for the transmission.
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Old 08-28-2014, 11:32 PM   #4
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What kind of jack it that. Lol. I want it.


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Old 08-28-2014, 11:50 PM   #5
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What kind of jack it that. Lol. I want it.


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Pittsburgh 3 Ton Low Profile jack... Got at Harbor Freight.
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Old 08-28-2014, 11:50 PM   #6
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I want it. How much


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Old 08-28-2014, 11:51 PM   #7
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That does look more difficult having to snake the drive shaft through all of the torque arm apparatus and such... Especially if you did it alone.

3.2 quarts for the transmission.
It was a pain in the ***. My dad helped me, i ended up dropping the entire torque arm since its just 4 small tabs that are welded to the SFCs that bolt to the Torque Arm.
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Old 08-28-2014, 11:51 PM   #8
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I want it. How much


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It was like $60, give or take $20. Let me get the link for it.
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Old 08-28-2014, 11:54 PM   #9
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Nevermind its 1.5 ton. Its my Jack Stands that are 3 ton.

1.5 Ton Compact Aluminum Racing Floor Jack with Rapid PumpĀ®
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Old 08-28-2014, 11:56 PM   #10
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Those are nice jacks. They're aluminum and very lightweight.
I have a 1.5 ton that I use for my Mustang and at the track.
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Old 08-28-2014, 11:58 PM   #11
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Hoping the tranny fluid change will help my 2-3 shift. I would love to hit a perfect 6k rev to 3rd gear, especially with this new driveshaft.
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Old 08-29-2014, 12:02 AM   #12
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You'll definitely notice a difference changing to synthetic and having it filled with the correct amount.
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Old 08-29-2014, 12:50 AM   #13
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Ha when we installed the TA i thought i hope he isn't planing on changing the DS soon haha
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Old 08-29-2014, 05:00 AM   #14
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what are you putting on for brakes today?
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Old 08-29-2014, 11:07 AM   #15
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what are you putting on for brakes today?

New drilled and slotted rotors with HAWK HPS Pads.



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Old 08-29-2014, 11:09 AM   #16
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Ha when we installed the TA i thought i hope he isn't planing on changing the DS soon haha

It's easier to take off and put on when you already know how, that much is certain.

Btw I may have a few parts that won't be able to get on here at home and may need help with....

My CC Plates, Stainless Brake lines (probably flush the system at the same time) and Coilovers.


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Old 08-29-2014, 02:25 PM   #17
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So I just pour it right in there correct?Click image for larger version

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Old 08-29-2014, 02:38 PM   #18
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So I just pour it right in there correct?Attachment 164686


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Yes.
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Old 08-29-2014, 04:25 PM   #19
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Well im taking 5 classes this time but im sure we could find some time. And damn is that the only way to add fluid to the transmission
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Old 08-29-2014, 04:45 PM   #20
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Lol
That's the "Scotty method" of refilling the trans.
There is a fill plug on the side of the transmission for those who don't want to tear apart the interior of the car. You have to pump the fluid in.

It is a more accurate way of refilling with exactly 3.2 quarts, than with a pump, though. With the pump, you have to kind of guess at how much transmission fluid stays inside of the pump during the refill.
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Old 08-29-2014, 10:21 PM   #21
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Well im taking 5 classes this time but im sure we could find some time. And damn is that the only way to add fluid to the transmission

Out of everything they can probably be done in parts. Like CC Plates then front coilovers, then rear coilovers, and brake lines on another day.


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Old 08-29-2014, 10:43 PM   #22
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Out of everything they can probably be done in parts. Like CC Plates then front coilovers, then rear coilovers, and brake lines on another day.


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How bad do you wanna flush your brake fluid? There's a really easy way to bleed your brakes that doesn't require a $100 bleeder or a second set of hands, but you won't be able to flush the fluid that way either.
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Old 08-29-2014, 10:54 PM   #23
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How bad do you wanna flush your brake fluid? There's a really easy way to bleed your brakes that doesn't require a $100 bleeder or a second set of hands, but you won't be able to flush the fluid that way either.

I wanna know haha
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Old 08-29-2014, 11:06 PM   #24
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I wanna know haha
Take a pop bottle and punch a hole in the top, stick a rubber hose down almost to the bottom, fill it half full with fresh brake fluid, put the other side of the hose on the bleeder screw and crack it open, after that just keep pressing the brake pedal, it will force the air out and when it draws back it will suck up brake fluid instead. Make sure to also put a breather hole in the top of the cap so that the excess air can escape. I had a picture of mine but my phone is being special.
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Old 08-30-2014, 01:03 AM   #25
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Take a pop bottle and punch a hole in the top, stick a rubber hose down almost to the bottom, fill it half full with fresh brake fluid, put the other side of the hose on the bleeder screw and crack it open, after that just keep pressing the brake pedal, it will force the air out and when it draws back it will suck up brake fluid instead. Make sure to also put a breather hole in the top of the cap so that the excess air can escape. I had a picture of mine but my phone is being special.

I was just gonna get Russell Brake Bleeders lol.


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Old 08-30-2014, 04:32 AM   #26
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01 Bullitt Driveshaft Install

Got the exhaust on, tranny fluid changed, and the front rotors/ pads. They gave me a harder time than I thought. Will finish up the rears tomorrow (today technically)
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Old 08-30-2014, 05:14 AM   #27
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what was the problem with the brakes?
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Old 08-30-2014, 11:59 AM   #28
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The caliper bracket bolts were likely stuck. I had to use a 18" breaker to get them off mine the first time I did them.

As for the trans, that method is the easiest and fastest way to do the fluid. By the time you get the car in the air and do the pump setup and pull the side plug you can remove 8 bolts and pull the shifter out. Also makes measuring exactly 3.2 quarts a breeze.

I know you probably already did the fluid but a synthetic fluid is actually not recommended by Tremec especially Royal Purple. Tremec actually says to avoid RP specifically. Recommended fluid from Tremec themselves is a non-synthetic "Synchromesh". GM stuff is pricey but is what is used in the Corvettes. I use the $8/bottle Pennzoil stuff from Autozone and my fresh 3650 literally falls into 2nd and 3rd at 6k RPM.



No "secret sauce" not crazy *** additives, just 3.2 quarts of that for a trans that shifts damn smooth. Still slightly notchy at lower RPMs but at high RPM it feels like a T-5.


As far as the driveshaft, yeah that looks like a hooker and a half with the TA/PH setup. Getting the correct torque on the pinion flange is important (75-90) and doing it in stages is as well. I'm thinking this may be one reason I have a vibe issue right now and I'm going to re-torque my pinion flange this week. Also using a good lithium based grease on the yoke is important. If you've never heard a tailshaft seal squeal from lack of lubrication, it sounds like you're slowly murdering something as you drive lol.
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Old 08-30-2014, 12:38 PM   #29
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The caliper bracket bolts were likely stuck. I had to use a 18" breaker to get them off mine the first time I did them.

As for the trans, that method is the easiest and fastest way to do the fluid. By the time you get the car in the air and do the pump setup and pull the side plug you can remove 8 bolts and pull the shifter out. Also makes measuring exactly 3.2 quarts a breeze.

I know you probably already did the fluid but a synthetic fluid is actually not recommended by Tremec especially Royal Purple. Tremec actually says to avoid RP specifically. Recommended fluid from Tremec themselves is a non-synthetic "Synchromesh". GM stuff is pricey but is what is used in the Corvettes. I use the $8/bottle Pennzoil stuff from Autozone and my fresh 3650 literally falls into 2nd and 3rd at 6k RPM.



No "secret sauce" not crazy *** additives, just 3.2 quarts of that for a trans that shifts damn smooth. Still slightly notchy at lower RPMs but at high RPM it feels like a T-5.


As far as the driveshaft, yeah that looks like a hooker and a half with the TA/PH setup. Getting the correct torque on the pinion flange is important (75-90) and doing it in stages is as well. I'm thinking this may be one reason I have a vibe issue right now and I'm going to re-torque my pinion flange this week. Also using a good lithium based grease on the yoke is important. If you've never heard a tailshaft seal squeal from lack of lubrication, it sounds like you're slowly murdering something as you drive lol.
Mobil 1 synthetic is one of the fluids recommended by Tremec for use in the 3650 as well as Syncromesh.
The problem with some of the synthetic fluids (RP) is that they have too high a sulphur content and it will destroy the synchro's in a very short time on higher mileage transmissions.
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Old 08-30-2014, 01:06 PM   #30
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01 Bullitt Driveshaft Install

Out of all the research I did about the tranny fluid I found that more people go with the Pennzoil synchromesh so that's what i did. But could not find it anywhere but the dealer and they charged an arm and a leg.

As for the brakes, the bigger problem I had was that little pin that slides into the bottom of the caliper and holds it on the bracket.

The main issue with the DS was taking everything else apart to get to it, that was a PITA. Eventually dropped the back part of the TA and was able to get 80lbs of torque on it. It does feel a lot smoother now though.


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Old 08-30-2014, 01:13 PM   #31
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I'll bet they did!
Mobil 1 isn't cheap either!

How is the 2-3 shift now?
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Old 08-30-2014, 04:10 PM   #32
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01 Bullitt Driveshaft Install

Still ****ty. Most likely the forks.

Also, these rear brakes are the ****tiest design I've ever seen. And the ****ing rotors won't fit between the ****ing pads. 3 hours and I still haven't been able to get one ****ing side done.


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Old 08-30-2014, 05:12 PM   #33
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Still ****ty. Most likely the forks.

Also, these rear brakes are the ****tiest design I've ever seen. And the ****ing rotors won't fit between the ****ing pads. 3 hours and I still haven't been able to get one ****ing side done.


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Did you buy GT or Cobra pads?
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Old 08-30-2014, 05:30 PM   #34
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You must have got GT pads. Cobra pads are thinner. I've had this problem before.
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Old 08-30-2014, 06:22 PM   #35
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Nevermind. Found the problem. Was just pushing in the piston, found out it had to be turned also. They fit perfectly now.


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