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Old 08-30-2014, 05:34 PM   #1
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New info on car stall

I know I did new tread. But here we go. Went to the shop today. Transmission good. I looked at the snap on scanner. When te car is fully warm it starts showing miss fire. No miss fire. On and off Dosnt do it from start. The tech had to drive it around a min just to get it to do it. No code. So I have it home. Letting it cool off. Then I'm going to check all spark plugs. And get a friend to do a compression test. Other than that I have no where else to go with. If I can't get this problem at least answered. Selling and buying a differnt car.


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Old 08-30-2014, 06:11 PM   #2
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You'll get this figured out Rollo... And you're learning a whole hell of a lot about Mustangs along the way!

I know that it's frustrating though...

Keep track of which spark plug came out of each cylinder and pay close attention to the color of the plugs. Look for any that are a different color than the rest of them, either lighter or darker in color.
And check the gaps to be sure that they're within specs. Also carefully inspect each of the COP boots for signs of cracking.

If you have any questions about how to do a compression test correctly don't hesitate to ask.
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Old 08-30-2014, 06:13 PM   #3
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I'm just letting the car fully cool off before I work on it. I will let you know and send pics too.


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Old 08-31-2014, 10:55 AM   #4
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I really doubt that a spark plug is your victim. In order for a spark plug to cause a stall at anytime, the spark plug would have to be dead, or broken off. The computer works on pulses and mili-seconds, if a fouled plug was evident, it still would not be a stall fault. It would be a cause for a CEL, lean or rich, but not an engine stall. Somewhere I bet you have a serious vacuum leak or similiar. And it is bad enough to cause a stall. You mentioned before that when you come to a stop it wants to stall, correct? Have you looked at your brake booster and the vacuum hose going into it that feeds off the manifold? Have you noticed any smoke when it stalls and you get it to restart? Fuel pressure drops can cause a stall, intermittent fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator. I am just throwing ideas out there, but I really doubt a spark plug would cause stalls, we are talking mili-sconds and the time it would take for the engine to stall is out of the question in my mind.

Secondly, STOP opening new threads on this same issue. It causes HAVOC when PPL want to chime in and have no idea what has already been done or spoken about. It is best to stay with the same thread till problem is solved. And not to mention it would be easier for the next person to diagnose a similiar fault and may have the same issue, and needs to read one thread instead of 3 or 4, no matter how long the thread is. I know your first thread got hi-jacked at the end, but all that requires is for you to converse with a forum modulator and ask them to take out the hi-jack material. So please stop the new threads, I and we are here to help as much as we can, but we and I do not like to fumble through 3-4 threads to just come back to the current thread to give a good suggestion or answer as we had to go back and see if it was covered in a previous thread. Get my point?
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Old 08-31-2014, 11:08 AM   #5
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I get t sorry for new thread. I don't see any smoke come if out. Right now it seems to only happen when the vehicle has driven or a while. I thin I will start with the brake booster. My mechanic friend mention that before I took it to te tranny shop. I listen in on the injectors. They are ticking fine. None are pausing. How should I test the brake booster. Thanks again


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Old 08-31-2014, 11:17 AM   #6
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If it were me, and I say this to avoid any further hardship on your mind. Take it to a reputable mechanic, that has diagnostic machinery and knows how to use such tools. And have them do a full diagnostic of your engine. Let the computer tell the story, readings at start up, warm up, and at temp operation. I bet the dianostic would tell exactly where the vacuum leak is occurring. Or have them do a vacuum leak test, also look into the fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump operations. How many miles are on this car, and how long have you had it? And once again, with out going into the other threads and reading, what happened or when did this start to happen and what was the defining moment you noticed this issue? I find no reason for you to sell this car because of this issue, if you keep going the route you are going, then I can see your reason for being upset. But going about it correctly will help instead of playing roger rabbitt.
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Old 08-31-2014, 11:32 AM   #7
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Let me ask you something else, when it stalls, do you look at the rpm guage when this happens? And also does this happen when you come to a stop or while depressing the brake pedal? Or does it do it while just creeping with no brake applied and stalls? If you are watching the RPM guage while this is happening, does the rpm's drop to around 800 and then fall off to 0 at stall?
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Old 08-31-2014, 12:14 PM   #8
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Ok so I had that transmission place put a snap on reader to the car. When they drove it and brought it back fully warmed up. The scanner said miss fire yes then went to no. And kept doing it. Now when I drove it out of town and got off the high way and started slowing down rpms went up. That's when I new it was about to stall. As soon as I fully stopped in a parking lot it stalled. I look at the rpms and from getting off he highway going slow the rpms go really high and then when I come to a complete stop it will die on me. I checked all the vacuum line near manifold. No leaks. I didn't know I also had to check vacuum lines on the brake booster. Now like I said the tranny shop had their scanner ad it said miss fire. But wouldnt stay on long enough to pull a code. I'm afraid to take it to a shop and spend all this money and it comes out to be 800 or more to find this issue. That's why I have this mechanic on post help me. I have seen him work on cars on our hobby shop. He has 20 years but dosnt have a shop type car reader. He has a reader but not as good as a shop. And he charges $20 and hour.


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Old 08-31-2014, 12:21 PM   #9
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These cars don't have vacuum assisted brakes. They are hydraulically assisted using the hydro-boost system.
I don't think a spark plug is causing this problem either but all 8 of them need to come out for a compression test so it would be foolish to not have a look at them and try to get a clue as to how each cylinder is perfoming.
It is easier if a problem is solved within the first page or two of a thread but that wouldn't have been the case here. This would have been a multi-page thread and a lot of people wont read through the entire thread anyways... Including me.

Rollo is doing multiple threads for guys with ADD like me...


Let us know what you find Rollo.
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Old 08-31-2014, 12:49 PM   #10
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Well like I said. There is deff a miss fire The computer said it. The problem is it throws miss fire then goes away. Then does it again a goes away. Would vacuum issue throw a miss fire.


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Old 08-31-2014, 12:53 PM   #11
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So far what I have done to the car. Manifold changed. Iac and TPS new. Cylinder 6 cop new. New coolant fan. New radiator cap. Full service on vehicle. All guilds changed. And new air filter. I have check all vacuum lines with brake cleaner. No rpm rise. Today I will take off the spark plugs to check them. But I might have I wait for a friend to come back to do compression test or check if I can sign one out I hobby shop. No autozone near me. Lol.


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---------- Post added at 10:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:52 AM ----------

Sorry. All fluids changed.


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Old 08-31-2014, 12:57 PM   #12
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Possibly.

Try this Rollo... With the engine running, shake and move the wiring harnesses on top of the engine and listen for any change in the idle while you are doing it.
Maybe this is a bad wire or connector that is the problem. Ford is famous for their troublesome wiring harnesses.
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Old 08-31-2014, 01:01 PM   #13
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Ok I will try this today. I still need to wait for te compressor test anyway.


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Old 08-31-2014, 01:04 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by straybullitt View Post
These cars don't have vacuum assisted brakes. They are hydraulically assisted using the hydro-boost system.
There I go again being old school I guess
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Old 08-31-2014, 01:21 PM   #15
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When I first came on this website, Grumpy, I didn't know "squat" about these specific cars. I had 35+ years automotive experience but not all of it transfers over to the modern cars.
I sure as hell am NOT an expert by any means but I have learned a lot from the knowledgeable people on this site and continue to learn.
With time, it will be the same thing for you....
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Old 08-31-2014, 01:25 PM   #16
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I too have been a mechanic first majority of my life. This is my 2nd 99-04 stang. Most of my 10 plus stangs over the years have been fox body, and 2 of them 05-10. But like you said, it is all about listening sometimes and not necessarily being heard. Wait, that is what my parents used to say when I was bad. Damn it
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Old 08-31-2014, 02:25 PM   #17
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I have learned a lot on this site also. Been a mechanic for 8 years. Most in the military. But te worst thing hate is electrical. But I am also very hard headed and also broke like no other. So that's why I am very hesitant taking it I a shop


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Old 08-31-2014, 09:43 PM   #18
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Ok messed around with the working harness. Nothing changed. I also tested the brake booster. It's good. The way I tested it from what I learned was with the car off I pushed in the brake pedal till it got hard to push. Held it then turned in the car. It pushed my foot back. So that was showing me the brake booster is good. Is that a correct way to test it. That's what I do on my hummers at work.


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Old 08-31-2014, 09:54 PM   #19
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Sorry wiring harness.


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Old 08-31-2014, 11:01 PM   #20
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Yep, that's the method for checking the brake booster.
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Old 09-01-2014, 12:27 AM   #21
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Ok so brake booster is working.


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Old 09-02-2014, 12:13 AM   #22
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In everyone's opinion. How much you think sending I to a shop would cost to diagnose


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Old 09-02-2014, 12:36 AM   #23
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They usually charge for an hour of labor to do a diagnostic check. Around here, labor rates are usually around $85 per hour.
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Old 09-02-2014, 12:43 AM   #24
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I'm wondering with my situation would it be outrageous


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Old 09-02-2014, 12:53 AM   #25
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What do you mean by "outrageous"?

Normally, they will give you an estimate for their diagnostic fee when you take the car in. They can't charge you any more unless they get your approval.
Whether or not they find anything in that hour is the risk that you are taking.
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Old 09-02-2014, 03:57 AM   #26
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I would definitely take it to a shop for diagnostic, It wouldn't cost all that must just for a diagnostic. You'll wind up paying more for someone with no scanner taking more time. When the rpms go up on interstate, is it like a clutch slipping. Is the car automatic tranny? I had a beretta that would stall because something was wrong with the torque convertor or the electronics in the tranny, cant remember, got rid of car. But when I would come to a stop, it would want to try to go like the convertor was locked in and would stall. I would have to put it in neutral. If you are auto maybe throw it in neutral when it goes to stall and see if that helps. I am not a mechanic by know means, this just made me think of that old beretta. good luck.
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Old 09-02-2014, 08:23 AM   #27
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I took it to a tranny shop tranny good. They said I had a miss fire and they couldn't do anything


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Old 09-02-2014, 10:55 AM   #28
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Okay this is going to sound ridiculous but have your alternator tested for a high ripple. My alternator had a high ripple and caused stalling and hard cranking.

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Old 09-02-2014, 08:31 PM   #29
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Can anyone send me a pic of where the PCM is at please


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Old 09-02-2014, 08:36 PM   #30
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It's behind the kick panel on the passenger side.
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Old 09-02-2014, 08:38 PM   #31
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What's the kick panel. I'm going through the book to see if I can find my issue. But this dam thing does not have 4.6 SOHC only DOHC.


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Old 09-02-2014, 08:42 PM   #32
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Old 09-02-2014, 08:42 PM   #33
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This is what I am trying to do. My friend is going I give me the compression test tomorrow


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Old 09-02-2014, 08:44 PM   #34
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The computer is in the same place on all of the cars.

The kick panel is that piece of plastic that is just ahead of the door in the passenger side foot well.
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Old 09-02-2014, 08:47 PM   #35
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How are you going to test the PCM?
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