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Old 09-01-2014, 10:05 PM   #1
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Rear sway bar

How important is the rear sway bar? I started noticing a rattling sound when i would go over bumps in the road and discovered my rear sway bar is broken on one side where it mounts to the control arm.

---------- Post added at 03:05 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:04 AM ----------

98 Gt is pretty much stock
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Old 09-01-2014, 11:39 PM   #2
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Replace it


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Old 09-02-2014, 12:21 AM   #3
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This is my daily driver so im wondering if its safe to drive like it is until this next weekend when i can replace it
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Old 09-02-2014, 12:23 AM   #4
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Just don't do any hard cornering, you'll be fine without one until you get another.
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Old 09-02-2014, 12:47 AM   #5
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Well if you've driven it this far then I think you'll be fine to keep driving it. I believe the sixxer didn't come with any from the factory if I remember right.
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Old 09-02-2014, 10:02 PM   #6
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Oversized sway bar will take away performance. guys at MM can explain on their website and others-
What thickness rear sway bar do I need?

As a general rule, when a rear-wheel-drive car is equipped with both front and rear sway bars, the rear bar should have less stiffness/diameter than the front sway bar. Installing too large a rear sway bar can make the rear suspension so stiff that it will cause the inside tire to lift on turns, limiting rear traction. In a high speed corner, it will also increase the likelyhood of "snap" oversteer occuring if the upper control arms bind and cause a sudden increase in the car's wheel rate. With the exception of the '94-'95 Cobra, Ford put a smaller sway bar on the rear of all late model Mustangs.. This is illustrated in the following table, which lists some stock Mustang anti-sway bar diameters that I found in various publications.
Year V6 Front V6 Rear V8 Front V8 Rear Cobra Front Cobra Rear
1984 28.5mm (1.12") 20mm (0.79")
1987 33mm (1.30") 21mm (0.83")
1993 24mm (0.94") none 33mm (1.30") 21mm (0.83") 28.5mm(1.12") 21mm (0.83")
1994 27mm (1.06") 21mm (0.83") 30mm (1.18") 24mm (0.94") 25mm (0.98") 27mm (1.06")
1998 27mm (1.06") none 30mm (1.18") 24mm (0.94") 29mm (1.14") 27mm (1.06")
1999 27mm (1.06") none 28mm (1.10") 23mm (0.905")
2000 25.4mm (1.00") none 27mm (1.06") 24mm (0.94")
2001 25.4mm (1.00") none 26.4mm (1.04") 23mm (0.905")
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Old 09-02-2014, 10:29 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robb15033 View Post
Oversized sway bar will take away performance. guys at MM can explain on their website and others-
What thickness rear sway bar do I need?

As a general rule, when a rear-wheel-drive car is equipped with both front and rear sway bars, the rear bar should have less stiffness/diameter than the front sway bar. Installing too large a rear sway bar can make the rear suspension so stiff that it will cause the inside tire to lift on turns, limiting rear traction. In a high speed corner, it will also increase the likelyhood of "snap" oversteer occuring if the upper control arms bind and cause a sudden increase in the car's wheel rate. With the exception of the '94-'95 Cobra, Ford put a smaller sway bar on the rear of all late model Mustangs.. This is illustrated in the following table, which lists some stock Mustang anti-sway bar diameters that I found in various publications.
YearV6 FrontV6 RearV8 FrontV8 RearCobra FrontCobra Rear
1984 28.5mm (1.12") 20mm (0.79")
1987 33mm (1.30") 21mm (0.83")
1993 24mm (0.94") none 33mm (1.30") 21mm (0.83") 28.5mm(1.12") 21mm (0.83")
1994 27mm (1.06") 21mm (0.83") 30mm (1.18") 24mm (0.94") 25mm (0.98") 27mm (1.06")
1998 27mm (1.06") none 30mm (1.18") 24mm (0.94") 29mm (1.14") 27mm (1.06")
1999 27mm (1.06") none 28mm (1.10") 23mm (0.905")
2000 25.4mm (1.00") none 27mm (1.06") 24mm (0.94")
2001 25.4mm (1.00") none 26.4mm (1.04") 23mm (0.905")

An easy fix to that issue is this bad boy right here. My car actually has understeer now from all the rear suspension
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Old 09-03-2014, 09:00 AM   #8
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Quote:
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An easy fix to that issue is this bad boy right here. My car actually has understeer now from all the rear suspension

Why would you say a torque arm is the answer to a broken swaybar? Both parts accomplish two different things when it comes to the rear suspension functioning. Or are you pointing to that swaybar that is barely in the picture? Or were you volunteering your time as the pics shows you under the car?
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Old 09-03-2014, 09:40 AM   #9
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Replace it. Or, if you were considering upgrading the suspension it might be a good time to install something like the Eibach kit where all the components are designed to work well with each other.
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Old 09-03-2014, 01:53 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robb15033 View Post
Oversized sway bar will take away performance. guys at MM can explain on their website and others-
What thickness rear sway bar do I need?

As a general rule, when a rear-wheel-drive car is equipped with both front and rear sway bars, the rear bar should have less stiffness/diameter than the front sway bar. Installing too large a rear sway bar can make the rear suspension so stiff that it will cause the inside tire to lift on turns, limiting rear traction. In a high speed corner, it will also increase the likelyhood of "snap" oversteer occuring if the upper control arms bind and cause a sudden increase in the car's wheel rate. With the exception of the '94-'95 Cobra, Ford put a smaller sway bar on the rear of all late model Mustangs.. This is illustrated in the following table, which lists some stock Mustang anti-sway bar diameters that I found in various publications.
Year V6 Front V6 Rear V8 Front V8 Rear Cobra Front Cobra Rear
1984 28.5mm (1.12") 20mm (0.79")
1987 33mm (1.30") 21mm (0.83")
1993 24mm (0.94") none 33mm (1.30") 21mm (0.83") 28.5mm(1.12") 21mm (0.83")
1994 27mm (1.06") 21mm (0.83") 30mm (1.18") 24mm (0.94") 25mm (0.98") 27mm (1.06")
1998 27mm (1.06") none 30mm (1.18") 24mm (0.94") 29mm (1.14") 27mm (1.06")
1999 27mm (1.06") none 28mm (1.10") 23mm (0.905")
2000 25.4mm (1.00") none 27mm (1.06") 24mm (0.94")
2001 25.4mm (1.00") none 26.4mm (1.04") 23mm (0.905")
They do this to build in some understeer... So that the general public doesn't kill themselves in these cars. It's much easier for most people to control a understeer situation than an oversteer. The correction for understeer is what comes naturally to 98% of drivers... Let off the gas and slam on the brakes. We all know what happens when you do that during an oversteer situation!
This is why front wheel drive cars gained so much popularity in the 1980's. Moms weren't spinning their Volvos out backwards into ditches on icy roads as much.
I've heard of people removing the rear sway bar entirely to try to get back some oversteer on New Edges.
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Old 09-03-2014, 05:36 PM   #11
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This is a common issue on earlier SN95s, they snap right behind one of the rear attach bolts. AFIAK the one on my 98 was replaced by the PO. My 95 snapped and I drove around (with aftermarket LCAs) for a week until an updated one came in. Back then everyone was recommending upgrading to the Bullitt rear sway bar which was cheap and easy to order in 2004.
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Old 09-03-2014, 05:55 PM   #12
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Why would you say a torque arm is the answer to a broken swaybar? Both parts accomplish two different things when it comes to the rear suspension functioning. Or are you pointing to that swaybar that is barely in the picture? Or were you volunteering your time as the pics shows you under the car?

The "fix to the issue" I was referring to was the Oversteer. Which is what you will get a bit more of with a bigger sway bar. So bigger sway bar + torque arm makes it a little bit more balanced.


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Old 09-03-2014, 06:18 PM   #13
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The rear sway bar on the Bullitt is a "resurrected" 21 mm tubular bar that was designed for the six cylinder cars.
For comparison, the GT's use a 23 mm solid sway bar.
To a point, less aggressive rear sway bars on these cars can be beneficial, BUT, a lot of it depends on your driving style.
The guy who won my autocross class last year tried using an additional, adjustable, rear sway bar on his car and HATED IT! He disconnected it almost immediately.
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Old 09-05-2014, 02:40 PM   #14
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Old 09-07-2014, 07:38 PM   #15
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I bought a stock one from a guy on craigslist and replaced my broken one. No more rattling . Easy workj
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Old 09-07-2014, 09:38 PM   #16
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Good you got it fixed. As for the torque arm... the sad thing is that on an 05-up its a $250 bolt on affair for a top of the line UCA and bracket and it takes a few hours at most. Goes to show how much got upgraded in 05 body wise. Also have easy install Watt's link kits and a bunch of other stuff for prices I could only wish existed in SN95 land. I am starting to get closer and closer to getting out of SN95s honestly but will still get a few years more enjoyment out of my 98 and potentially turn it into a DD except for ice/snow/salt conditions.
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