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Old 09-21-2014, 12:57 AM   #36
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I don't think it would really think it would be that hard to do. Maybe need a few redbulls but would be manageable

Also. I think my valve stem seals should be replaced. Car smokes a tiny bit when you rev it after it idles for a while.

I've already got the tuning set up through data logging from a guy I trust.


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Old 09-21-2014, 12:59 AM   #37
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Also. I think my valve stem seals should be replaced. Car smokes a tiny bit when you rev it after it idles for a while.

I've already got the tuning set up through data logging from a guy I trust.


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For the valve seals do you remove the head? Or just pull the springs ?
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Old 09-21-2014, 12:59 AM   #38
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For the valve seals do you remove the head? Or just pull the springs ?

I believe you can do it with the heads in the car. Just gotta remove the springs, and the cams since those are on top of the springs.


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Old 09-21-2014, 01:07 AM   #39
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I believe you can do it with the heads in the car. Just gotta remove the springs, and the cams since those are on top of the springs.


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Hmmm okay
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Old 04-20-2015, 05:52 PM   #40
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Well..... for kicks i'm reviving this thread. Seems like there has been more interest lately in it. Plus after i almost blew the stock motor at my track day its time to think about the "oh ****!" situation if it actually does go.

And with all the F150s and Mustangs in junkyards nowadays cost is coming down a lot.
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Old 04-20-2015, 07:50 PM   #41
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Cost is coming down a bunch. I made a thread today about how much insurance in my state is for a Coyote and especially a GT500 lol... yeah... $500/mo for the car and then another $100-$225 tacked onto my current insurance. Hmmm... I paid $20/mo for the 98GT lol. Starting to think about a SN95 project again... or a real clean white 05-09 V6 to swap with a Coyote later on. There is no shortage of "real cheap to fix just needs a little work" lolzy cars on CL, just have to known how to spot a diamond in the rough.

I'd have to bone up on the 05-09 V6s (most likely an older one) and what all needs to get upgraded which I'm guessing is everything that isn't interior or body panels. Which is why the Coyote swap is so nice, its got its own standalone electronics.

Waiting for Ish and Rap to come in with LS1 Robert Baratheon style Warhammers swinging. That's another thing I've been looking at. 5.3/5.7 LSx swap into a Fox or 94/95 SN95 (to avoid OBD2 VIN check although I hear EfiLive can alter that) would be glorious too. Or into a E36 M3...
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Old 07-13-2015, 07:42 AM   #42
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Late model restoration sells a ton of kits for this coyote swap majority of it all fits in with out issues only thing that's going to be a pain is actually fitting that huge motor in the engine bay. Master cylinder might hut valve cover , headers might not clear need to have tubular k member n and as far as wiring goes there's actually a lot of useless wires that can get clipped out I believe only 6 wires in the pack you need


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Old 07-13-2015, 07:55 AM   #43
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As far as expense goes this coyote swap isn't really that expensive. It all depends how far u want to go n what parts you want to use. Estimated costs Is 10-20 thousand dollars. My build is only costing me 15. This build is all straight forward to where I'm doing the swap in my driveway on jack stands


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Old 07-13-2015, 07:57 AM   #44
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$15k including the cost of the car? Do you have all the parts and EVERYTHING already or is that just a budget on paper? Would like to see what it costs and how it runs when all is said and done and you have the final tune on it.
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Old 07-13-2015, 08:03 AM   #45
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That's without the costs of the car. I have majority of the parts n that's just budget on paper


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Old 07-13-2015, 08:05 AM   #46
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All the kits they make for this swap really helps with the budget


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Old 07-13-2015, 08:15 AM   #47
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Motor I spent $6000 t56 6spd kit from modern drive line $3500 upr tubular k member kit 800$ shock strut kit 800$ that's the major expenses along with BBK long tube headers everything else is simple like fuel regulator peddle assemble bracket battery relocate kit n a few more little things n you basically have the swap finished


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Old 07-13-2015, 08:56 AM   #48
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$15,000 plus the cost of your car you could have just bought a real nice 11/12 Coyote with low miles... but if that isn't what you wanted then it isn't what you wanted.

Also whatever you have on paper is going to be under what you finally spend, its always that way unfortunately.
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Old 07-13-2015, 09:00 AM   #49
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That is true but the new edge coyote swap power to weight ratio is insane and it makes the build that much better


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Old 07-13-2015, 09:12 AM   #50
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Eh... you don't save a ton of weight and the S197 platform is way better but you CAN get the SN95 down to 3000lbs... honestly if weight savings is what you are after go with a notch fox.

But its going to be cool as hell when done, Ford nailed the New Edge as far as looks.
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Old 07-13-2015, 09:36 PM   #51
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If ur looking to lsx into a fox or sn95 find lsx unlimited out of alvarado texas. My old racing buddies making a name in the game for their 5.3 turbo setups. Jeremy clark is the owner and his red one is the prototype for boostedgt's

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---------- Post added at 10:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:35 PM ----------

U can find em on the facebooky thing

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Old 07-13-2015, 09:52 PM   #52
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99-04 Coyote Swap

I did the math. And after a coyote swap my car would be 30xx pounds. I've got it almost all budgeted out. Down to the battery relocation and small little brackets lol. I should be able to save around 1/3 on the swap if all goes according to plan. Then another 1/3 is stuff you can do before hand to build up to it. So up front costs don't really need to be that huge. If all goes well it'll happen after college.


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Old 07-13-2015, 09:54 PM   #53
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That is true but the new edge coyote swap power to weight ratio is insane and it makes the build that much better


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A 450whp 3,000 pound new edge would have the same power to weight ratio as a Hellcat


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Old 07-15-2015, 08:13 PM   #54
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I did the math. And after a coyote swap my car would be 30xx pounds. I've got it almost all budgeted out. Down to the battery relocation and small little brackets lol. I should be able to save around 1/3 on the swap if all goes according to plan. Then another 1/3 is stuff you can do before hand to build up to it. So up front costs don't really need to be that huge. If all goes well it'll happen after college.


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Old 07-16-2015, 06:33 PM   #55
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Is this because I'm installing a manual peddle assembly in what was an automatic GT ?


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Old 07-16-2015, 07:41 PM   #56
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The main thing with the coyote swap is that you have to convert to drive by wire. The control pack comes with the pedal needed, but there is a special bracket you need to install it. I believe SVE has it (At Latemodel...). Being automatic or manual shouldn't matter too much since it is just that lone gas pedal that is being changed.
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Old 07-16-2015, 07:46 PM   #57
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I have a gas pedal for a coyote if you need one. 50 bucks shipped to a Mevo member 👍🏻


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Old 07-16-2015, 08:26 PM   #58
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The SVE gas pedal adapter has been catching a lot of flak btw. There is a billet real beefy one available but I forget exactly who sells it...
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Old 07-16-2015, 08:43 PM   #59
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The SVE gas pedal adapter has been catching a lot of flak btw. There is a billet real beefy one available but I forget exactly who sells it...

Heard about it. Heard it takes longer to get though. At least it did a few years ago.


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Old 07-16-2015, 08:45 PM   #60
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Someone in my school has a green bull it's with silver fr500s it's pretty clean but has 5.0 badges I hope he's swapped


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Old 07-16-2015, 09:04 PM   #61
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Before I moved there were two people running around with GT emblems and Cobras above those 😐. I wanted to confront them about their stupidity but never seen them, just the cars in the parking lot.


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Old 07-16-2015, 09:24 PM   #62
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The main thing with the coyote swap is that you have to convert to drive by wire. The control pack comes with the pedal needed, but there is a special bracket you need to install it. I believe SVE has it (At Latemodel...). Being automatic or manual shouldn't matter too much since it is just that lone gas pedal that is being changed.

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Now to convert to drive wire with the control pack. I have a computer from a 12 gt from s buddy of mine also along with the engine harness for my motor. Would it be possibly to just get the control pack wiring harness and not the whole package they sell on LMR thats 1400$ +. ? ,With the stock intake and all the other none sense I don't need.


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Old 07-16-2015, 09:27 PM   #63
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Plz inform if I have the peddle bracket Installed incorrectly or correctly on my 99 gt.


Thanks


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Old 07-16-2015, 09:53 PM   #64
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Taking manufacturer bias out of the conversation, what advantages does a Coyote swap have over an LSx swap?

It can't be weight, aluminum LSx are around 460 lbs turn key. Coyote is around 445 lbs with no accessories, flywheel or fluids. LSx would also have a lower center of gravity.

It can't be size, LSx are the same height and about the same length, LSx is over 3" narrower.

Power is similar but LSx makes a massive bit more down low and has a better power curve.

LSx has more NA potential and both engines will make around the same with FI.

LSx has more aftermarket support, is cheaper to modify, cheaper to fix and also has less to go wrong (OHV vs DOHC).

LSx has better fuel economy. Low end torque and big gears = 26+ MPG, assuming this matters at all.

Last I knew, the LSx swap was cheaper.


Again, not trying to start anything, just curious what advantages the Coyote has over an LSx.
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Old 07-17-2015, 02:50 AM   #65
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99-04 Coyote Swap

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Taking manufacturer bias out of the conversation, what advantages does a Coyote swap have over an LSx swap?

It can't be weight, aluminum LSx are around 460 lbs turn key. Coyote is around 445 lbs with no accessories, flywheel or fluids. LSx would also have a lower center of gravity.

It can't be size, LSx are the same height and about the same length, LSx is over 3" narrower.

Power is similar but LSx makes a massive bit more down low and has a better power curve.

LSx has more NA potential and both engines will make around the same with FI.

LSx has more aftermarket support, is cheaper to modify, cheaper to fix and also has less to go wrong (OHV vs DOHC).

LSx has better fuel economy. Low end torque and big gears = 26+ MPG, assuming this matters at all.

Last I knew, the LSx swap was cheaper.


Again, not trying to start anything, just curious what advantages the Coyote has over an LSx.

NA potential is subjective given both are set up properly. Equal displacement would make the LSx far behind on power. There are 600whp NA coyotes out there with only slightly raised compression ratios. The coyote can also take 16.0:1 Compression ratio on E85.

As for power band. In a track car you don't want extreme torque down low, that only puts your back end into the dirt or in a wall at the track. You want it to build as you go. The coyote needing minimal work to hit 8k rpm would make it far more ideal for a track setting. And the 4.10s make up for the low down power and you can still rev it extra high. Way too many times have I seen Vettes spin out at autocrosses, even at the track day I went to the same thing happened.

It is also well proven that in similar conditions a 4v head will always outflow a 2v head.

The center of gravity only really matters if the entire car is designed around it. In a new edge that won't really make a difference.

As for cost. We all know that if you are going balls to the wall on a build neither will be cheap.

It may be subjective but a coyote looks way better than a LSx, especially with a Cobra Jet manifold.

For weight. Yea the LSx is a little bit lighter, but a coyote is still 100lbs lighter than the 2v.

And last but not least. I absolutely refuse to bastardize a special edition car.

In my opinion the coyote is a better track engine than the LSx.


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Old 07-17-2015, 02:54 AM   #66
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As for fuel economy, plate says it all.
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Old 07-17-2015, 03:19 AM   #67
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Stock Aluminator XS in the Griggs Racing car. This is the 500bhp version.

Watch how he is able to use the throttle throughout the turns. High rpm and shorter gears is a far better set up than steep gears and gobs of torque

https://youtu.be/_2m-IotQa6o


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Old 07-17-2015, 05:43 AM   #68
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Stock Aluminator XS in the Griggs Racing car. This is the 500bhp version.

Watch how he is able to use the throttle throughout the turns. High rpm and shorter gears is a far better set up than steep gears and gobs of torque

https://youtu.be/_2m-IotQa6o


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Man that's some nice driving

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Old 07-21-2015, 03:19 PM   #69
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Any tune shop guys know about the issues you come across when using a stock PCM n harness from 11-14 GT on these coyote swaps on the new edges ..... I know ford racing makes the control pack kit but also I heard there's ways around not spending the 1400$ on the kit.


Any info will help thanks


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Old 07-21-2015, 03:38 PM   #70
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The control pack really is the best route. Or just buy a 11-14gt as that will probably be cheaper than a swap including the cost of the car.

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