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Old 07-21-2015, 03:51 PM   #71
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The control pack really is the best route. Or just buy a 11-14gt as that will probably be cheaper than a swap including the cost of the car.

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But that car won't weigh 3,0xx pounds with an already built suspension and interior.


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Old 07-21-2015, 03:57 PM   #72
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I understand where you're coming from Scott but no one I know goes out n buys a new edge just for a coyote swap. All us swap guys have either spent so much time n money on the car where it's a centime-mental thing or we just want an all motor fast car. Everyone has there preferences


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Old 07-21-2015, 04:03 PM   #73
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For me it's too much into the car and too much sentimental value


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Old 07-21-2015, 04:49 PM   #74
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Hey I'm the guy who went and bought another SN95 lol, I love them.
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Old 07-21-2015, 05:17 PM   #75
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As a guy who has a 14 gt I can tell you I wouldn't hate on a guy who had the balls to coyote swap a new edge. Just because you can buy a 14 GT for the same price or cheaper than the swap doesn't mean it's as cool.

14 GT COOL

01 GT coyote swapped bad ***

I'd do it.


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Old 07-21-2015, 05:38 PM   #76
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Not to mention the Edge is one of the best looking cars ever.

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Old 07-21-2015, 05:41 PM   #77
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One of 😬


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Old 08-01-2015, 06:15 PM   #78
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Any suggestions on how to get my break lines out of the engine bay and somewhere else clean n neat


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Old 08-01-2015, 07:59 PM   #79
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Yeah pull your fender off and make new brake lines yourself and hide them in there. Delete your ABS controller as well, ABS is stupid on a sports car.
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Old 08-01-2015, 09:02 PM   #80
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Yeah pull your fender off and make new brake lines yourself and hide them in there. Delete your ABS controller as well, ABS is stupid on a sports car.

Ehh, unless it's a dedicated race car I would keep it.


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Old 08-01-2015, 10:36 PM   #81
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Ehh, unless it's a dedicated race car I would keep it.


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What are your thoughts on a manual breaking system I'm not too familiar wit it


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Old 08-02-2015, 12:19 AM   #82
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Manual brakes, when done right, are surprisingly ok on the street and great on the track. Just don't buy the UPR piece...
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Old 08-02-2015, 12:28 AM   #83
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If you are very conscious with foot pressure then manual brakes can work amazingly. A very large majority of people will lock the brakes though. I didn't know our truck didn't have ABS until I locked them up on the highway when traffic stopped out of nowhere. Still the scariest moment of my life to date. Sliding on the highway with cars in front of you is not a good experience.


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Old 08-02-2015, 04:34 AM   #84
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What do you mean manual? Because manual means no assist, that is bad news. No abs isn't that bad if you have a decent pair of pads and rotor for street but straight manual no assist is asking for trouble Imo
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Old 08-02-2015, 10:26 AM   #85
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Yes manual as in no assist. You buy a kit (or fab yourself) that has a redesigned brake pedal with the pivot point moved so you have a lot more leverage pressing down. The MM kit does this and would be the way to go for the manual brakes although last time I checked their instructions didn't have a solid 96-04 install guide.

Manual brakes means you can get rid of all the hydroboost crap and delete all the power steering stuff too and go do a manual rack. I mean this is now getting away from "street car" but I'm always surprised how many guys run manual brakes and steering on these cars.

However a LOT of those guys are running bigs/littles and dont' have to put much effort into turning narrow tires up front. Not sure how I'd feel about turning some 285s up front without power steering...
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Old 08-02-2015, 12:10 PM   #86
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Ohh didn't even think about moving the pivot point. I have 275s up front and it's not too bad. I like manual steering better than power. I feel like I can control it easier. Yeah it's a little hard to turn parking but nothing unbearable. But then again I have a classic so idk how the two compare.
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Old 08-02-2015, 02:57 PM   #87
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Ohh didn't even think about moving the pivot point. I have 275s up front and it's not too bad. I like manual steering better than power. I feel like I can control it easier. Yeah it's a little hard to turn parking but nothing unbearable. But then again I have a classic so idk how the two compare.

Nice man I have 255"s tryna get like 275 or bigger when my ride is done. You have to cut / role fenders? I also have Viking cool over kit


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Old 08-02-2015, 09:32 PM   #88
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Nice man I have 255"s tryna get like 275 or bigger when my ride is done. You have to cut / role fenders? I also have Viking cool over kit


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I have a 68 so I couldn't tell you if you needed to. But yes mine are rolled
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Old 08-03-2015, 07:58 AM   #89
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I have a 68 so I couldn't tell you if you needed to. But yes mine are rolled

Haha that's true but most likely I'll have to do the same if I want wide tires


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Old 08-03-2015, 05:35 PM   #90
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Nice man I have 255"s tryna get like 275 or bigger when my ride is done. You have to cut / role fenders? I also have Viking cool over kit


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On a new edge? No you won't need to roll your fenders.
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Old 08-04-2015, 12:26 PM   #91
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On a new edge? No you won't need to roll your fenders.

Really? I was told that 255r40 was the biggest I can go without rubbing fenders. What's the biggest size before you need to start considering cutting n rolling ?


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Old 08-04-2015, 12:52 PM   #92
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Really? I was told that 255r40 was the biggest I can go without rubbing fenders. What's the biggest size before you need to start considering cutting n rolling ?


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You were told wrong. I have 285s up front on mine and the car is lowered about an inch. No rubbing. Going TOO low is never a good idea anyway for a variety of reasons.

There were New Edges that came with 275s from Ford up front btw. There is a reason the New Edges have flares built into the fenders unlike the 94-98 cars.
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Old 08-04-2015, 03:37 PM   #93
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I run 275/35-18 and lowered probably at least 2 inches. Rolled the fenders and i'm good. Eventually i will get wider flares put on.
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Old 08-04-2015, 04:51 PM   #94
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Really? I was told that 255r40 was the biggest I can go without rubbing fenders. What's the biggest size before you need to start considering cutting n rolling ?


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I ran a 315/35R17 and it barely touched the fender. I was lowered 2.5" front and 2" rear. But anything around a 295 and under should be just fine
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Old 08-04-2015, 05:53 PM   #95
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I ran a 315/35R17 and it barely touched the fender. I was lowered 2.5" front and 2" rear. But anything around a 295 and under should be just fine
Talking about the fronts tho. You can get 315s out back on a 94-98 without having to do anything even on a lowered one. Dudes with Edges are running 335s out back with little to nothing as far as modding out there.

AFIAK, 295 is as big as you can reasonably get up front with a 9.5" wide rim with fairly minor mods.

I'd honestly LOVE to find a set of OEM 00R rims. 18x9.5, put some 285/35/18s on them and maybe a 1/2" spacer out back and go.
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Old 08-04-2015, 06:27 PM   #96
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Talking about the fronts tho. You can get 315s out back on a 94-98 without having to do anything even on a lowered one. Dudes with Edges are running 335s out back with little to nothing as far as modding out there.

AFIAK, 295 is as big as you can reasonably get up front with a 9.5" wide rim with fairly minor mods.

I'd honestly LOVE to find a set of OEM 00R rims. 18x9.5, put some 285/35/18s on them and maybe a 1/2" spacer out back and go.
Must have missed that, thanks for pointing that out.
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Old 08-05-2015, 01:29 AM   #97
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Hey Madman99, what are you doing for your fuel system? From what I've seen a return style system is required, Lethal has a budget system just for the coyote swap.

Post some pics of your build.


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Old 08-05-2015, 06:59 AM   #98
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Hey Madman99, what are you doing for your fuel system? From what I've seen a return style system is required, Lethal has a budget system just for the coyote swap.

Post some pics of your build.


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That's the one with the FPR that is a return unit itself but only outputs a single line for the stock returnless rails right? That's the one most ppl run AFIAK.
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Old 08-05-2015, 04:02 PM   #99
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Hey Madman99, what are you doing for your fuel system? From what I've seen a return style system is required, Lethal has a budget system just for the coyote swap.

Post some pics of your build.


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Yes you have to change the fuel system 99-04gt have return less systems im getting a kit from lethal comes with everything.

Just finished prepping engine bay for paint have to get the gas pedal with drive by wire doing a custom aluminum dash inside with a 6point cage
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Old 08-05-2015, 04:05 PM   #100
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Also have a UPR k member kit came with 12" Viking coils A arms n all necessary parts to put it together. Just bought t56 6speed trans kit from D&D performance with stage 2 McLeod clutch pondering on if I should go hydraulic or cable clutch not sure


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Old 08-05-2015, 06:26 PM   #101
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Keep the cable setup. No reason to go hydraulic.

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Old 08-05-2015, 06:28 PM   #102
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99-04 Coyote Swap

I drove a NE with a hydraulic set up before. My knee was hitting the wheel before the pedal was all the way out. The pedal travel was a lot longer than a cable set up.


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Old 09-11-2015, 08:56 PM   #103
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Any recommendations on a really good return style fuel system to use with my coyote swap. Just bought aeromotive fuel pressure regulator


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Old 09-11-2015, 10:06 PM   #104
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99-04 Coyote Swap

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Any recommendations on a really good return style fuel system to use with my coyote swap. Just bought aeromotive fuel pressure regulator


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Fore innovations. Best you can get.
Dual 465's and you will be set.
Which would be overkill

Also 2 or 3 342's would be more than you could use honestly.

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Old 09-12-2015, 01:13 AM   #105
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Lethal Performance has a system specifically designed for the coyote swap.


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