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Old 09-23-2014, 11:55 PM   #1
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SR Control arms thoughts

What do y'all think of the upper/lower control arms from SR? My car is just a commute back and fourth to work and car shows. No racing unless to pass traffic.

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Old 09-24-2014, 12:14 AM   #2
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What's the point then?


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Old 09-24-2014, 07:06 AM   #3
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What's the point then?
Exactly.
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Old 09-24-2014, 03:35 PM   #4
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I'd get lowers if you want a little better planting on takeoff. Uppers are a HUGE no-no unless you get ones with spherical end links and even then. Put the solid SR uppers (or any solid uppers) in the car and have fun with snap-oversteer and breaking your torque boxes.

I'd just get the Steeda lowers if you absolutely must but if its just a commuter... I'd leave it alone.
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Old 09-24-2014, 03:46 PM   #5
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I'd get lowers if you want a little better planting on takeoff. Uppers are a HUGE no-no unless you get ones with spherical end links and even then. Put the solid SR uppers (or any solid uppers) in the car and have fun with snap-oversteer and breaking your torque boxes.

I'd just get the Steeda lowers if you absolutely must but if its just a commuter... I'd leave it alone.
Are the regards to the UCA true on the 05-14's as well?
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Old 09-24-2014, 04:56 PM   #6
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So just replace the Upper bushings and get LCA?

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Old 09-24-2014, 05:32 PM   #7
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Are the regards to the UCA true on the 05-14's as well?

No, 05+ is a better 3 link set up. Go ahead and swap those out.


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Old 09-24-2014, 06:20 PM   #8
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No, 05+ is a better 3 link set up. Go ahead and swap those out.


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Yep, the 3 link in the 05-up is great. I really wish someone would come out with a simple bolt in mount/uca for the 94-04 cars that goes to a single centered UCA. The MM TA/PHB setup is great but it is HEAVY and so is the 99-04 Cobra IRS.
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Old 09-24-2014, 06:29 PM   #9
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Yep, the 3 link in the 05-up is great. I really wish someone would come out with a simple bolt in mount/uca for the 94-04 cars that goes to a single centered UCA. The MM TA/PHB setup is great but it is HEAVY and so is the 99-04 Cobra IRS.

It's not terribly heavier. Think of it as better balancing for the heavy front end. Car weighs 3335 pounds


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Old 09-24-2014, 07:25 PM   #10
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Don't mustangs or at least our body style have like a 57f/43r weight distribution?
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Old 09-24-2014, 07:45 PM   #11
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Don't mustangs or at least our body style have like a 57f/43r weight distribution?

Correct.


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Old 09-24-2014, 07:48 PM   #12
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Correct.


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I did add weight with my Torque Arm and Panhard Bar, nowhere near the IRS though I can say that. The car right now has literally no oversteer (it's not tail happy). I have to actually try to kick the end out when cornering. So at this point it will be more beneficial to take weight off the front.


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Old 09-24-2014, 07:50 PM   #13
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Yeah its pretty bad. There are things you can do though. Aluminum block shaves off 80lbs right off the bat, move the battery to the back, tubular K, tubular A arms, fiberglass hood, delete some accessories etc... Ppl routinely get fox notches in the sub 3k range and the Sn95s not too much further out and still relatively comfy for the street.
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Old 09-24-2014, 07:52 PM   #14
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I'm aiming for under 3100 with mine.


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Old 09-24-2014, 07:57 PM   #15
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So how much roughly would a tubular K member, A arms, and coils over shave off? Guessing not a lot maybe 50?


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Old 09-24-2014, 08:05 PM   #16
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MM advertises with the complete k-member kit, to include the k-member, lca's, and coil-overs to reduce wt by 40lbs. UPR advertises the same kit as MM to reduce wt at 64lbs over stock.
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Old 09-24-2014, 08:05 PM   #17
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Depends on the K member. UPR will cut the most weight but ain't that strong for cornering, where Maximum Motorsports is lighter than stock but not near UPR and is much stronger.


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Old 09-24-2014, 08:26 PM   #18
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Not a ton, especially if you go with the MM K member which is probably the best "street" K out there for DD or handling purposes. Still, it adds up fast. Honestly with that Bullitt, Soccer has an extra 20-30lbs from that metal intake lol.
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Old 09-24-2014, 11:13 PM   #19
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Not a ton, especially if you go with the MM K member which is probably the best "street" K out there for DD or handling purposes. Still, it adds up fast. Honestly with that Bullitt, Soccer has an extra 20-30lbs from that metal intake lol.

True that ^ but so much better than the plastic one!!!


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Old 09-25-2014, 06:44 AM   #20
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It all depends on whether you think it is worth it. IIRC, the Bullitt intake is 40lbs. The PI is something like 10. That's a lot to just plop on the nose of an already heavy car IMO not to mention the added heat from the metal vs plastic. For the 5rwtq you pick up, I personally don't think its worth it but many do as far as avoiding the warping/cracking of the plastic intake.

Honestly the best option is probably to go with the Eddy especially for a car that is going to see a lot of track time where the driver can just keep it up in the powerband and not worry about the loss of torque down low.

You have to admit the Bullitt intake is very purdy though, I remember when you could buy the swap kit in the early 2000s for $1500 from Ford. That was one damn expensive 5ft lbs especially because back then that was more like $1800-$2000 in today's money. For what the PI intake is, it is a GREAT intake, you just have to watch running a lot of boost and the leaking issues under the tstat on higher mileage ones that have ran hot. This is one reason I run one range cooler on the spark plugs and a 180 stat.

Now as far as the original question of this thread, I think its been answered. For a street car that is just a DD, get a good set of LCAs and basic suspension. CC plates, springs/shocks/struts, nice wheels and tires and you should hook up ok while getting rid of that godawful stock 4x4 stance.

The only thing I will say is that with the stock rubber UCAs, if you really nail a shift good, the *** of the car is going to kick out a little.
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Old 09-25-2014, 07:39 AM   #21
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Now as far as the original question of this thread, I think its been answered. For a street car that is just a DD, get a good set of LCAs and basic suspension. CC plates, springs/shocks/struts, nice wheels and tires and you should hook up ok while getting rid of that godawful stock 4x4 stance.

The only thing I will say is that with the stock rubber UCAs, if you really nail a shift good, the *** of the car is going to kick out a little.
Op-I'm late to the punch here and Scotty nailed it here-It's going to really be dependent on what you're looking to do on the day to day, and what you're looking to get out of it. LCA's, CC Plates, Springs, Struts, and Shocks will all work hand in hand with each other to help you put the power down. Another large piece of the equation here is going to be the wheel and tire combination. Pending on what you're shooting for will drastically help the cars overall performance. I ran this setup identically (minus struts and shocks on my '01) If I could turn back time I would do everything as the ride quality felt like a Cadillac bouncing everywhere. While the springs, cc plates, and control arms helped, I would shoot for everything, it's going to make the car handle that much better!

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Old 09-25-2014, 11:31 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soccerluvr4 View Post
No, 05+ is a better 3 link set up. Go ahead and swap those out.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Yep, the 3 link in the 05-up is great. I really wish someone would come out with a simple bolt in mount/uca for the 94-04 cars that goes to a single centered UCA. The MM TA/PHB setup is great but it is HEAVY and so is the 99-04 Cobra IRS.
Sweet. I already have a Steeda UCA, still with the stock mount though.
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Old 09-25-2014, 12:00 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
It all depends on whether you think it is worth it. IIRC, the Bullitt intake is 40lbs. The PI is something like 10. That's a lot to just plop on the nose of an already heavy car IMO not to mention the added heat from the metal vs plastic. For the 5rwtq you pick up, I personally don't think its worth it but many do as far as avoiding the warping/cracking of the plastic intake.

Honestly the best option is probably to go with the Eddy especially for a car that is going to see a lot of track time where the driver can just keep it up in the powerband and not worry about the loss of torque down low.

You have to admit the Bullitt intake is very purdy though, I remember when you could buy the swap kit in the early 2000s for $1500 from Ford. That was one damn expensive 5ft lbs especially because back then that was more like $1800-$2000 in today's money. For what the PI intake is, it is a GREAT intake, you just have to watch running a lot of boost and the leaking issues under the tstat on higher mileage ones that have ran hot. This is one reason I run one range cooler on the spark plugs and a 180 stat.

Now as far as the original question of this thread, I think its been answered. For a street car that is just a DD, get a good set of LCAs and basic suspension. CC plates, springs/shocks/struts, nice wheels and tires and you should hook up ok while getting rid of that godawful stock 4x4 stance.

The only thing I will say is that with the stock rubber UCAs, if you really nail a shift good, the *** of the car is going to kick out a little.

Remember it's not all just peak numbers. Power through the entire curve has shown to be better. Plus I'm sure with a blower it'll be even that much better.


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Old 09-25-2014, 12:17 PM   #24
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Sweet. I already have a Steeda UCA, still with the stock mount though.
You'll want a new mount and you'll want an adjustable one if you don't have one for when you get a 1 piece DS which is always a good idea vs that 2 piece garbage.
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Old 09-25-2014, 04:37 PM   #25
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You'll want a new mount and you'll want an adjustable one if you don't have one for when you get a 1 piece DS which is always a good idea vs that 2 piece garbage.
Hmm, 1 piece DS is definitely on the list, prob will put in the mount at the same time as DS, but why adj UCA needed? Mine is non-adj but for lowered cars (and I'm lowered 1.5in all around) and my pinion angle is spot on with it.
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Old 09-25-2014, 07:09 PM   #26
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Hmm, 1 piece DS is definitely on the list, prob will put in the mount at the same time as DS, but why adj UCA needed? Mine is non-adj but for lowered cars (and I'm lowered 1.5in all around) and my pinion angle is spot on with it.
Well you can do the DS and see before you spend the money but the 1 piece is going to be at a different angle than the rear half of the 2 piece shaft unless the 2 piece shaft is dead straight. It still may be close enough.
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