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Old 09-29-2014, 11:31 PM   #1
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I want BOOST

im in college its hard for me to save up money but i have about 4 grand saved up and i want to supercharge/turbo my car. its a 2000 gt i DD it so im not looking to go with alot of boost prob around 6 psi. was looking at the kenne bell intercooled kit but i want you're guys opinion first . and also pros/cons on the KB kit
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Old 09-29-2014, 11:58 PM   #2
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Is your car auto or manual?
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Old 09-30-2014, 12:25 AM   #3
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5 speed
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Old 09-30-2014, 03:19 PM   #4
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Might as well run a Tork Tech kit and save some money in the process in order to put that towards fuel upgrades and a tune.
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Old 09-30-2014, 06:48 PM   #5
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it seems that the tork tech kit would be more of a hassle to piece it all together?? correct me if im wrong... the KB kit should be almost complete ??
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Old 09-30-2014, 07:50 PM   #6
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Looking at what KB lists on their website you're gonna need at least a new fuel pump and possibly better injectors. http://www.kennebell.net/KBWebsite/S...4.6(96-04).htm
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Old 10-03-2014, 11:39 PM   #7
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I want BOOST

Peice together a vortech kit i got a whole kit sittin in the floor right now waiting install and have $1800 into it with the fuel system stuff and lightning maf, u could do this and still have enough for some forged rods and pistons


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Old 10-04-2014, 06:06 PM   #8
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The used Vortech route is far and away the easiest/cheapest route to go. All the power hides up high, but it also allows you to keep the car feeling stock until you really stomp on it.
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Old 10-04-2014, 06:11 PM   #9
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I want BOOST

Ya ill be seeing somewhere around 400whp, for 1800 + tune not to shabby , i got lucky and got my v2 unit for 800 and it only has 150 miles on the rebuild i called vortech which confirmed the recent rebuild i still think u wont get cheaper then that for FI but 4gs is more then enough to get him some boost


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Old 10-04-2014, 06:33 PM   #10
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4Gs might be enough to get him to 400hp. But if the rest of the car is stock or almost stock he wont' be able to use it well. Needs suspension mods and if the trans is flaky that may need replacement too. If suspension is still stock, that needs to get done FIRST and then think about power.
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Old 10-04-2014, 06:49 PM   #11
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I want BOOST

Thats true u can have 400 hp but if u cant plant it then it wont do you any good ull be getting walked by 300 hp cars that have suspension, however he didnt ask that though lol but if he went the rt i did that extra money could get him a good start on the suspension as well ( just a thought)
But if you want a twin screw the kb kit is nice and it comes with injectors and a boost a pump and even a chip so he can drive it ( even tho id drive it straight to the dyno to get it tuned as its still a canned tune aimed to be very conservative)

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Old 10-04-2014, 07:34 PM   #12
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Why pay top dollar for a big blower only to run low boost on it? Like half of the blower will just be doing nothing and weighing you down. Those blowers are meant for cars with built blocks and other supporting mods.

Centrifugal is the way to go for budget builds. Buy 'em cheap, run 'em w/o an IC'er if low enough boost, running a bit higher boost is possible due to less stress on the engine being centrifugal, etc.
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Old 10-04-2014, 07:54 PM   #13
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I have another 2v out of a 02 gt on the side that I will be building that's why I would run low boost on the stock bottom end until I have the built one ready


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Old 10-04-2014, 07:56 PM   #14
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And I also live in Florida so I would want to run a intercooler


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Old 10-04-2014, 08:38 PM   #15
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I like centri blowers personally thats why i have one peiced together plus the upgrades are endless with them and im also gonna run low boost and build a seperate motor out of the car so i can up the boost and power the good thing about centri blowers u can run boost of 20+ psi easily and any kind of intercooler u want my vote is for a vortech s.c


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Old 10-08-2014, 01:42 AM   #16
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On3 turbo kit is only 1824$?


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Old 10-08-2014, 05:30 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XxFLoridaboYxX View Post
On3 turbo kit is only 1824$?


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That isnt everything though i know you have to then get a k member and a few other things just to bolt it up then theres the tune and everything else i know a buddy that did the on3 kit and he ended up paying somewhere close to 3grand when it was all said and done and thats with him doing his own install and any fab work that was needed, the vortech kit im gonna be total into it at 1800 and didnt have to fab anything it was one of the easiest installs possible


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Old 10-08-2014, 06:29 AM   #18
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That's the gen1 kit, the gen2 kit (the one you want) is $2k IIRC. You will need the UPR K, fuel injectors, fuel pump to push enough fuel to said injectors and a tune of course.

$2k On3 kit
$300 for the cheapest UPR K
$250 for On3 injectors
$150 for a fuel pump
$600 for tune

That is if you need no other parts. If the car is bone stock you're going to spend another $1000 on a basic street setup to get the power to the ground half decently and another $1200 in wheels/tires. Or just throw a set of better tires on the stock rims for $500.

Honestly there is 0 way in hell I would **** with the modular these days. I know I whore the Coyote swap in most threads where someone talks about building the modular but its completley not worth it nor is it cost effective to do a 4.6L build anymore unless you are just boosting the stock motor for cheap like thyreaper is and then you are limited to bolt on Coyote power. Just to illustrate, you can get an entire 10k mile F-150 Coyote motor for $800 cheaper than a just a Trick Flow head/cam set for the 2V. The F-150 Coyote has slightly milder intake cams and you can swap those out at $125 each from Ford. Intake is the same ppl are finding, just looks different.

And also with that Vortech kit being talked about, $1800+$600 tune+misc parts that will probably pop up. Vortechs can run way more than 20 psi as well, maybe not the S trim but the bigger units will have no issues. Although "psi" means precisely dick if you are just going by that by itself. Gotta factor in the compression on the motor, cams, heads, how high its being spun etc... 10 psi on a Coyote will make a metric assload more power than 10 psi on a Terminator although both motors are capable of about the same in stock form before it starts to get dicey.
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Old 10-08-2014, 10:26 AM   #19
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If I sell my new edge I'll have around 10-12k ( I have money saved up) and that would be a nice down payment on a newer stang (11-14)idk if I could afford payments on a gt though lol


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Old 10-08-2014, 10:36 AM   #20
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There are cars you can get for $10-$12k on the secondhand market that are already done up putting down 400+ to the wheels and turning 11s. They aren't Fords tho.
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Old 10-08-2014, 10:52 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
That's the gen1 kit, the gen2 kit (the one you want) is $2k IIRC. You will need the UPR K, fuel injectors, fuel pump to push enough fuel to said injectors and a tune of course.

$2k On3 kit
$300 for the cheapest UPR K
$250 for On3 injectors
$150 for a fuel pump
$600 for tune

That is if you need no other parts. If the car is bone stock you're going to spend another $1000 on a basic street setup to get the power to the ground half decently and another $1200 in wheels/tires. Or just throw a set of better tires on the stock rims for $500.

Honestly there is 0 way in hell I would **** with the modular these days. I know I whore the Coyote swap in most threads where someone talks about building the modular but its completley not worth it nor is it cost effective to do a 4.6L build anymore unless you are just boosting the stock motor for cheap like thyreaper is and then you are limited to bolt on Coyote power. Just to illustrate, you can get an entire 10k mile F-150 Coyote motor for $800 cheaper than a just a Trick Flow head/cam set for the 2V. The F-150 Coyote has slightly milder intake cams and you can swap those out at $125 each from Ford. Intake is the same ppl are finding, just looks different.

And also with that Vortech kit being talked about, $1800+$600 tune+misc parts that will probably pop up. Vortechs can run way more than 20 psi as well, maybe not the S trim but the bigger units will have no issues. Although "psi" means precisely dick if you are just going by that by itself. Gotta factor in the compression on the motor, cams, heads, how high its being spun etc... 10 psi on a Coyote will make a metric assload more power than 10 psi on a Terminator although both motors are capable of about the same in stock form before it starts to get dicey.

Scotty is right and far down the road when the coyote motor and ecu becomes alil cheaper ( as it will when the newer f150s start popping up at my local salvage yard in more numbers) i plan on going to the coyote motor but right now i dont have alot of money and i already have the vortech kit ima get some manley rods/pistons from mmr ( there 750 hp rated combo) and the bbk 78mm intake tb and up the boost as i can peice this stuff together and make somewhere around 500-550 hp as for me itll be a while like several years before i can put me in a coyote motor then l put my vortech blower on it and make some big power (as long as its the same blower if nit ill sell this one and get the right one) i know the mounting bracket will be different and all . Thats my plan but right now my suspension and torq boxes arnt good enough to handle more then 400hp i dont think so that will come first


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Old 10-08-2014, 12:21 PM   #22
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Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market

5.0s out of F150s with as low as 9k miles are in the $2500-$3k range picked up. Just TFS heads/cams alone will cost more than that for the 2V. Even ported PI heads and cams are going to be around $2500. **** that.
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Old 10-08-2014, 03:10 PM   #23
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But scotty then u gotta buy the harness and a ecu/ controll pack just to run it then fab up a intake and do something to make the heater core work and a.c ect , yea i get ur point but theres alot of hidden things that come with a motor swap certainly with the coyote and did they ever get the control pack stalling/running issues worked out? Like if i buy one now will it come with a stalling issue still?


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Old 10-08-2014, 07:13 PM   #24
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They worked that out a long time ago. Its still much cheaper to do the coyote swap. Ive already tallied it. Literally $thousands cheaper.

Ppl always dismiss the swap because of the harness cost and the swap parts costs and apparently dont know how much arp hardware, machine work forged assemblies, heads, fuel etc...cost and thats before a power adder to get the 4.6 to even sniff what the coyote will make with a simple tune after you drop it in.

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Old 10-08-2014, 08:31 PM   #25
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Yea i know the actual cost that ull end up spending building the stock 2v is more but i didnt know if they worked it out on the control packs that they sell in there kits nowadays i know that some people had to get the fix on there own and figure it out themselves. Only reason why i havnt just done the swap in the first place is because i want something better then the stock hp turd and can peice this together and spread out the cost but i fully intend to drop one of those badasses in my car but its going to take a long while for me to save to get all the stuff needed for the swap


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Old 10-08-2014, 08:41 PM   #26
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Scotty is spot on with his comment that people don't realize how expensive rebuilding a motor, the CORRECT WAY, really costs. All those parts and add up very quickly.

Personally in your position the biggest bang for the buck would be to piece together a Vortech kit. Understand though that like others have stated, the power comes on at the upper end.
If you want the equivilant of power throughout the band giving the impression of a much larger motor you need to look at a roots or twin screw type blower. Kenne Bell is one. There are others.
They are however more expensive but they give boost throughout the full RPM range (more or less)..
IMHO much more practical for a DD.
But, more expensive.

If you are interested in a coyote motor I would save my money and buy a new car when you can afford it.
The swap can be done but it's complex and will nickle and dime you.
It's a great swap but I don't think it fits into your budget or what you are looking to get out of the car.
Just my 2 cents.
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Old 10-08-2014, 08:48 PM   #27
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With that list Scotty mentioned don't forget the required Wideband and boost gauge, that's another $300 or so.


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Old 10-08-2014, 08:51 PM   #28
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I already have the vortech kit sittin in the floor just waiting on this motor situation to be done because the motor i have now is making weird noise at certain rpms even if ur barely on the throttle plus i changed the intake valves for more ptv clearence to run a decent cam after thats done ima throw the blower on and go get it tuned but ill do the coyote swap before i go and buy a new car i dont want car payments plus the price of a newer car i can do the swap for not even a fraction of that cost plus i like the body styles of 95-2004 so unless i run into alot of money buying a newer car already with the coyote is out of the equation


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Old 10-10-2014, 09:27 AM   #29
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Cams will do nothing but cost you more money if the rest of hte motor is stock. Rods will let go at around the 425+ range which the Vortech will hit easy with stock cams. So its a waste until you forge and put on a set of ported heads or TFS heads. Like I said, a set of TFS heads alone will cost you about as much as a whole Coyote motor.
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Old 10-10-2014, 11:28 AM   #30
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Yea but would i still be able to use my ccw blower with the coyote motor? I know the mounting bracket is deff different but i dunno about the blower on a coyote swap


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Old 10-10-2014, 09:17 PM   #31
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You'd want to sell it and buy the correct Coyote setup. The Coyote motor by itself is going to make more than is safe to run on stock rotating assembly 2V anyway.

If you just want 400 on the street and are going to be happy with that for a long time, then just bolt on the blower. Start talking about cams/forging/big boost etc... and you'll want to sell your car and buy something better or swap in something better. Its actually even cheaper to swap in the LSx honestly and basically the same as a Coyote swap. Just different swap parts.
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Old 10-10-2014, 11:28 PM   #32
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Well i just researched it alot its basicly the same blower on the coyote but diff bracket and piping because it bolts to the pass side like the 96-04 ones do and the bracketry u get for the swap to run all ur accesories allows u to run the ps in the same location as 96-04 and the alt is turned around backwards just like the blowers do so the piping and all wont by typical of a reg coyote its kinda uncharted territory as of right now most people are running a roots style blower on the swaps , the prob with the lsx is what efi system would u run? Plus id have to get a tranny because it wouldnt bolt up to mine, i know a coyote with a blower would be more then the stock t45 can handle but id run it and not put the blower on untill i upgraded the t45 or got a better trans, the lsx i would think is more expensive due to the fuel injection system or the lack of and i dont want a carburetor


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Old 10-11-2014, 07:40 PM   #33
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I think I'm going to go with the on3 gen 2 kit and put some money towards laying the power down aka tires and small suspension stuff


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Old 10-11-2014, 08:06 PM   #34
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Just remember you need a tubular K to clear the On3 kit. Specifically the UPR one but a few others ones will work IIRC. The Gen1 kit does not require an aftermarket K but the boost will not come on as early.
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Old 10-11-2014, 08:08 PM   #35
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What's the difference between the normal 2v kit and the forward facing 2v kit gen 1 and gen 2?


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