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Old 11-22-2014, 12:49 AM   #1
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I'm the guy in I got my first today and now I got Questions

After 50 years of Hotrodding Chevrolet and GM products I am going to attempt to build a 2004 Mustang GT into the fastest car I have ever owned. It will be done in two stages( if I Live that long ). If it was a Corvette, 327, 350, 409, 427 or a GTO I would know what to do but here is where I need help from all of you Mustang experts. I am actually going to order some parts tonight unless I waited too late to get your advice. I found an exceptionally clean and well cared for 2004 GT W/automatic transmission so here goes.
1-Next week the existing rear gear will be changed to a 3:83 ratio and sub-frame connectors installed along with all the bushings changed, shocks and anti-roll bars addressed.
2- BBK short tube headers and cat less X-Pipe?
3-Someone's Cold Air Induction System?
4- Any gains in changing the Mass Air Flow Sensor, if so Who's.
5- In Stage ll I know I will need to go to a good tuner with a dyno but for now will a handheld tuner be worthwhile, I know it will throw some codes with the off road x-pipe. If a handheld will accompłish what I need what brand will do the best job?
6- Forgot up at # 1, After the short tube headers and X-pipe can I buy a pair of Magnaflow, Flowmaster or even Borla mufflers that will be an exact replacement ie inlets and outlets on the right side and size and maybe hangers on them? I have done this on a Corvette a couple of times and saved lots of money because the balance of the exhaust is in good condition.
I am still looking for someone that would post a few pictures for me. Spent two hours this morning trying and a hour earlier tonight and never came close but I can email them to an address.
Okay Guys and Gals or Ladies I am at your mercy!
Thanks
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Old 11-22-2014, 02:28 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Landspeedracer View Post
After 50 years of Hotrodding Chevrolet and GM products I am going to attempt to build a 2004 Mustang GT into the fastest car I have ever owned. It will be done in two stages( if I Live that long ). If it was a Corvette, 327, 350, 409, 427 or a GTO I would know what to do but here is where I need help from all of you Mustang experts. I am actually going to order some parts tonight unless I waited too late to get your advice. I found an exceptionally clean and well cared for 2004 GT W/automatic transmission so here goes.
1-Next week the existing rear gear will be changed to a 3:83 ratio and sub-frame connectors installed along with all the bushings changed, shocks and anti-roll bars addressed.
2- BBK short tube headers and cat less X-Pipe?
3-Someone's Cold Air Induction System?
4- Any gains in changing the Mass Air Flow Sensor, if so Who's.
5- In Stage ll I know I will need to go to a good tuner with a dyno but for now will a handheld tuner be worthwhile, I know it will throw some codes with the off road x-pipe. If a handheld will accompłish what I need what brand will do the best job?
6- Forgot up at # 1, After the short tube headers and X-pipe can I buy a pair of Magnaflow, Flowmaster or even Borla mufflers that will be an exact replacement ie inlets and outlets on the right side and size and maybe hangers on them? I have done this on a Corvette a couple of times and saved lots of money because the balance of the exhaust is in good condition.
I am still looking for someone that would post a few pictures for me. Spent two hours this morning trying and a hour earlier tonight and never came close but I can email them to an address.
Okay Guys and Gals or Ladies I am at your mercy!
Thanks
Welcome to the forum!
I read your earlier post.


1. All of this is good! I think that you are referring to 3.73 gears. The only other thing that I might add is a quality set of aftermarket lower control arms for the rear suspension.
2. Unless you are wanting to produce a specific sound from the exhaust, there is no performance gain to be had from adding shorty headers. The stock exhaust manifolds are actually quite good. The only performance gain is by installing long tube headers on the 2V engines. The rest of the exhaust is up to you because it all boils down to what you think sounds the best. And yes, if you get some mufflers with the correct sized inlet/outlet, bring them to a muffler shop and they can weld them to your existing catback.
3. There is no performance gain to be had with an aftermarket CAI until you get to well above 500 rwhp. Again, the stock unit is very good.
4. When you need to change MAF (Forced Induction) that's the time to change the CAI.No gain from either until your making big hp numbers.
5. Tuners are awesome! Bama is desperately trying to blow up all of their new 2015 Mustangs to try and dig themselves out of a "slump". Dyno tune is the best way to go though.
6. Refer to #2.

You need to decide how much power that you think that you'll need in your quest for the fastest car that you've ever owned. Typically, the cheapest and easiest route is by supercharging these engines.
Aside from the suspension, I'd take some time to decide how exactly that you want to go about building this engine before you start ordering parts that may not be compatible later on.
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Old 11-22-2014, 04:05 AM   #3
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Thanks your last statement is what I want to avoid. Everytime I have installed a CAI especially on a Corvette where they turn down and over into the area behind the front bumper cover and they are usually a Volant or Veraram with two to three cones I could immediately could tell a difference in power once on the open road and up to full throttle. Plus I like loud and the noise the kit makes is similar to a four barrel opening up and sucking air in. My final goal is to have 500 to 600 HP at the flywheel in a year or a little more. The car has 77,170 miles on it and I won't put 1,500 miles per year on it. It will go to a Show N Go to dragstrip 3 or 4 times per year, to middle Florida for a 1/2 mile Shootout on a 1 1/2 mile smooth as glass runway and three hours north of where I live to a similar event, then to the Talledega Alabama Speedway and Road Atlanta for a track day at each. And if I can find a club within a 75 mile radias I would like to do some auto cross. The plan includes upgrading the brakes in phase ll. If changing the heads will help and the boost doesn't have to be turned up real high will this 77,000 mile engine hold up for a couple of years? I know that torque converter and transmission will be required but I have a friend with a modern up to date transmission shop and he is very much performance oriented and owns a 650 RWHP Corvette C06. I will get a Edge Performance build a custom converter based on the cars specs. Another thing I am dealing with less weight than I am used to. I hold six landspeed records with my 03 SS Silverado truck making 500 flywheel HP but the truck weighs 6,230 lbs. with me aboard and will run the 1/4 mile at 13,34.
Will a handheld tuner maybe a Diablo free up some HP and delete or raise the speed limiter, adjust the shift points and the rev limiter? That along with the CAI kit and maybe now just the off-road X-Pipe and more open exhaust have the car along with the gear ratio change running around 130 MPH in a half mile. I am registered in a half mile challenge in mid January?
Again Thanks for the input
Garrell
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Old 11-22-2014, 05:16 AM   #4
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My final goal is to have 500 to 600 HP at the flywheel
I think you will be the only one on THIS forum to put down those numbers on your year of car.
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Old 11-22-2014, 06:08 AM   #5
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I have done it before and I have got to learn what these cars like and don't like and I had to learn a hell of a lot after I came out of the fog after the strokes. I didn't know who my Wife, two adult Daughters or five Grandchildren were. Sadly I didn't know who probably were the kindest and careingest Parent in this state were, they were always growing ten times the garden items they need to and would harvest and deliver to Children and Grandchildren and neighbors before themselves but I was able to spend lots of time with them but even though I didn't know them in my mind it didn't take long to know them in my heart, they are both gone now. Everything I know I have learned since the first of 2010 by reading volumes of anything, watching hours of informative TV and asking thousands of questions .
I assumed your remark was in the positive and you think I will if I don't run into health issues that I can accomplish my goal.
Want to post a couple of pictures of my Mustang here? If you would send your email address to: garrellpatterson@bellsouth.net
Thanks anyway if you don't want to
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Old 11-22-2014, 06:48 AM   #6
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Of course Positive remarks. Just Blunt.
boost and or spray and a built motor. Simple bolt on parts wont achieve those numbers.
PM sent
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Old 11-22-2014, 07:45 AM   #7
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That is why there is a phase l and ll. I have my 55,000 mile 03 SS Silverado with 500 HP but it is easier with a 6.0 LS engine. Just exhaust, intake manifold, cam, throttle body, tuning but no forced induction. I have someone coming Monday to look at my competition yellow Corvette and that will cover phase l.
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Old 11-22-2014, 08:21 AM   #8
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Here are the pictures emailed to me by Landspeedracer
Not going to lie, I am a bit jealous haha
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Old 11-22-2014, 08:52 AM   #9
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Here are the pictures emailed to me by Landspeedracer
Not going to lie, I am a bit jealous haha

Sexy vettes


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Old 11-22-2014, 09:00 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Hello View Post
Here are the pictures emailed to me by Landspeedracer
Not going to lie, I am a bit jealous haha

Sexy vettes


Sent from my iPhone using Mustang Evolution
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Old 11-22-2014, 09:15 AM   #11
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You have some nice cars.
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Old 11-22-2014, 09:37 AM   #12
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The guy standing next to Jack Roush is me, I am looking for a two year old picture of my 6,300 lb. truck launching against a Duece Coupe, no it didn't pull a wheel stand but the left front and the right rear thought they could.
Spent all night shopping for and ordering parts from American Muscle, thanks to advice I received here I didn't buy headers but got the off road X-pipe and Magnaflow mufflers. Got some accessories to personalize the Mustang, silver vinyl stripe from the front of the scoop out to almost the edge of the hood, lovers paint matched for over the quarter windows, smoked headlight covers, a Diablo tuner for right now because later on it would have to be retuned on a dyno even if I had it done now. I am getting into this Mustang thing.
If you have time this weekend think a good thought for me and if you are a praying person add me to your list. No big deal but I have got to have a chemical stress test next Tuesday to see how my heart is doing and if my heart function has gone down in the last year.
Just found the picture I was hunting of my truck leaving the line.
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Old 11-22-2014, 09:43 AM   #13
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Here is his bad as$ truck

just a fyi . If you wanted to upload pics in the future just simply go to " Post reply" then select the paper clip icon and you will have the option to browse your computers photos and upload them.

or just email them to me and I will help, no problem!
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Old 11-22-2014, 10:12 AM   #14
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I know it sounds easy but that has been the most difficult thing I have tried to do. I buy antique Colt handguns mostly Civil War era and I advertise and resale them for my toy money, nothing comes out of family savings. I have learned to take decent but not great pictures. Nothing on a big scale maybe will have six guns at one time but I have pulled all nighters on numerous occassions trying to post pictures and had written instructions in the most elementary terms and can't do it. I have a friend I. the more modern gun business that post all my pictures and he has been here and sat by me and showed me how and couldn't do it.
FYI my Brother in Law says I let him have the 69 Z for $6,500.00!!!
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Old 11-22-2014, 10:22 AM   #15
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You have a nice clean mustang to start with
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Old 11-22-2014, 10:23 AM   #16
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Nice truck and prayers my dude


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Old 11-22-2014, 10:32 AM   #17
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What is a safe RPM to set shift points when the rear gear is changed next week and I get my handheld tuner? Also the tires are Michelins and they have some life left in them but I am going to put either a NITTO or BF Goodrich on with a W speed rating in a high performance tread but I can't remember the tire name or number. The ones on the car are the original size but it would look better with a little larger tire but if I go taller Ious some of my lower gear ratio but I would like to fill the wheel well opening. I thought you could get a 3:83 gear but one of you said it was 3:73. Is there nothing between that and a 4:10 which I am afraid would be too low because it will be driven to events.
Oh during my shopping spree of last night $1296.00 I took the advise of one of you and ordered upper control at and subframe connectors and Poly Propane, is that correct, bushings
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Old 11-22-2014, 11:23 AM   #18
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lower control arms is what you want, leave the uppers alone.

there is a forum discount code for American Muscle to help save you some money.
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Old 11-22-2014, 11:44 AM   #19
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Called and changed the control arms, does anyone know what code number I should use for the discount?
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Old 11-22-2014, 11:53 AM   #20
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Called and changed the control arms, does anyone know what code number I should use for the discount?
http://www.mustangevolution.com/forum/f371/t289270/
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Old 11-22-2014, 01:34 PM   #21
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Thanks your last statement is what I want to avoid. Everytime I have installed a CAI especially on a Corvette where they turn down and over into the area behind the front bumper cover and they are usually a Volant or Veraram with two to three cones I could immediately could tell a difference in power once on the open road and up to full throttle. Plus I like loud and the noise the kit makes is similar to a four barrel opening up and sucking air in. My final goal is to have 500 to 600 HP at the flywheel in a year or a little more. The car has 77,170 miles on it and I won't put 1,500 miles per year on it. It will go to a Show N Go to dragstrip 3 or 4 times per year, to middle Florida for a 1/2 mile Shootout on a 1 1/2 mile smooth as glass runway and three hours north of where I live to a similar event, then to the Talledega Alabama Speedway and Road Atlanta for a track day at each. And if I can find a club within a 75 mile radias I would like to do some auto cross. The plan includes upgrading the brakes in phase ll. If changing the heads will help and the boost doesn't have to be turned up real high will this 77,000 mile engine hold up for a couple of years? I know that torque converter and transmission will be required but I have a friend with a modern up to date transmission shop and he is very much performance oriented and owns a 650 RWHP Corvette C06. I will get a Edge Performance build a custom converter based on the cars specs. Another thing I am dealing with less weight than I am used to. I hold six landspeed records with my 03 SS Silverado truck making 500 flywheel HP but the truck weighs 6,230 lbs. with me aboard and will run the 1/4 mile at 13,34.
Will a handheld tuner maybe a Diablo free up some HP and delete or raise the speed limiter, adjust the shift points and the rev limiter? That along with the CAI kit and maybe now just the off-road X-Pipe and more open exhaust have the car along with the gear ratio change running around 130 MPH in a half mile. I am registered in a half mile challenge in mid January?
Again Thanks for the input
Garrell
If you keep the RWHP below 450, that is considered "safe" for these engines when they are stock.
I'd do a Kenne-Bell supercharger kit and leave the engine stock for now. That kit comes with everything that you need and has an option to upgrade the MAF as well. This may provide enough power to accomplish your goals but if it doesn't you can always turn up the boost.
The automatic transmission will just need a TC upgrade and there is something called a J-mod that is like a shift kit but better. There is plenty of information on how to do this on the internet and YouTube.
Hell, your car may be able to 130 in the half mile as it sits! There's only one way to find out... Go find a lonely stretch of straight road, reset your trip-meter, and give it a shot!
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Old 11-22-2014, 02:31 PM   #22
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I don't suggest it buy I have a one mile stretch of county road wide and in good condition, not a driveway or intersecting road the entire length and during the day and during weekdays hardly any traffic. I consider it my private test ground. Didn't there use to be a piece of electronics marketed that you fastened to the dash top or windshield and I can't remember if you preset it for certain distances and when you started off the G-Force triggered it to start and it would give you your 1/4 mile ET, speed and maybe Topspeed. Am I imagining this or does it ring a bell with anyone?
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Old 11-22-2014, 02:42 PM   #23
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I don't suggest it buy I have a one mile stretch of county road wide and in good condition, not a driveway or intersecting road the entire length and during the day and during weekdays hardly any traffic. I consider it my private test ground. Didn't there use to be a piece of electronics marketed that you fastened to the dash top or windshield and I can't remember if you preset it for certain distances and when you started off the G-Force triggered it to start and it would give you your 1/4 mile ET, speed and maybe Topspeed. Am I imagining this or does it ring a bell with anyone?
They have apps for your smart phone that do exactly what you are talking about.
You're old school like me though Garrell... We dont really need all of those fancy gizmos.

Just drive the wheels off of the thing!
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Old 11-22-2014, 03:02 PM   #24
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Also, here is a good thread to read. It covers, mostly, the bolt-ons but it will get you better acquainted with the Modular engine and the do's and don'ts of modifying them.
If you start on the last page of that thread, there is a link to the original post by the author of that thread (cliffyk) in one of my posts near the bottom of the page.
Beginner's guide to bolting-on power gains

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Old 11-22-2014, 03:04 PM   #25
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Drive it with no traffic and stop when the odometer shows 1/2 mile and have a can of red spray paint and lay down a strip in my ongoing lane and again at the one mile mark this glance at the speedo and try to remember the speeds at each. I only where glasses to read and my truck and the Corvettes have large tacks but I can't read the RPM'S at just a glance on the Mustang and really all the gages are difficult to read.
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Old 11-22-2014, 03:05 PM   #26
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Haha.
That link starts at the last page.
You'll figure it out.

They really need to fix that thread...

Edit.
On the app it was the last page!
I give up... Just read the thread. Lol

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Old 11-22-2014, 03:18 PM   #27
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Hey Straybullit I appreciate it, I like to read and learn especially about Hotrods.
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Old 11-22-2014, 03:31 PM   #28
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If you came from Chevys u should already know to avoid shorties

---------- Post added at 03:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:29 PM ----------

Full bolt ons , boost, suspension do w

---------- Post added at 03:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:30 PM ----------

Nvm full bolt ons, suspension, THEN blower along with forged rods pistons
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Old 11-22-2014, 04:40 PM   #29
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I wouldn't even bother with most of the bolt-ons. If you want 500-600fwhp then just save up for a Vortech, Torque Convertor, J-Mod, and build the suspension
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Old 11-22-2014, 11:21 PM   #30
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Tried to find a good tower shock /strut brace and Muscle Car Restorationt only shows four or five and I am a believer in the opinions of reviews if there are enough to weed out the one guy who had a bad experience with somsthing. There were over thirty on each one and they were about 50/50 on each one and they talked about alignment problems and re fabricating some to get them to seat on the towers. If some of these cars didn't have a shock tower brace and a subfrabme connector are that so twisted that they are out of square? The last time I bought a tower brace for a Pontiac Transam and it was a Hotchkis that came out of the box and sat right down in place no re fabricating involved.
What strut or shock tower brace have any of you used with success?
Oh, my black truck in the picture coming off the line has BBK short tube headers then has Doug's Hedders Remote Control 2 3/4" cutouts after the pipes come down and level off. I have tried running the standing mile with them open and then run again within two hours under similar weather conditions and run 3 to 5 MPH slower?
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Old 11-23-2014, 12:46 PM   #31
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Maximum motorsports for everything
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