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Old 12-11-2014, 04:01 PM   #1
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Help!!

So I got in the car today and every time I would hit 1800 to 2200 RPMS my car would make a vibration noise but only at those rpms! cant find where its coming from!! any advice would be much appreciated!
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Old 12-11-2014, 04:05 PM   #2
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Well sir info is necessary, like year miles auto manual. And is it under acceleration or even when your cruise is on in those rpms?

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Old 12-11-2014, 04:07 PM   #3
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Does it do it in park or neutral if you rev the motor to that rpm?

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Old 12-11-2014, 04:12 PM   #4
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Help!!

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Originally Posted by natestang07 View Post
Well sir info is necessary, like year miles auto manual. And is it under acceleration or even when your cruise is on in those rpms?

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2004 GT manual trans 7k miles on a new motor roughly 90k on body. Makes the vibration noise cruising/accelerating/rev in neutral. Sounds as if it's coming from the rear end maybe? Very hard to find! Just started roughly two days ago. Thanks in advance!!


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Old 12-11-2014, 06:05 PM   #5
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Possibly loose exhaust? Trans mount? Just a noise and vibration? Not effecting the way the car drives at all?

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Old 12-11-2014, 10:07 PM   #6
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Possibly loose exhaust? Trans mount? Just a noise and vibration? Not effecting the way the car drives at all?

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Car drives perfect!! I'll have to get under and look at it in the light! Just found it odd that's it's only between 1800 and 2200. And idk if it's just me or not but when the cars warms up it sounds more noticeable. Full exhaust so it's hard to pinpoint where it's coming from while driving


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Old 12-18-2014, 03:19 AM   #7
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Mine started doing the exact same thing. Sounds like it's coming from back end. Thinking it could be exhaust hangers but doesn't make sense to me either because mine is more noticeable at higher rpms also


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Old 12-18-2014, 06:31 AM   #8
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it probably happens at a particular rpm because of harmonics. more exhaust flow plus different sound waves creates different vibration patterns. since its only at 1800 to 2200 rpm, if it goes away as soon as you upshift, then i would rule out the rear axle, since it only increases speed.

Start securing your exaust, stuff things in places temporarily, and carefully, and give it a test.

btw does this happen at 2200 in neutral at a stop, or with engine load (moving in gear)?
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Old 12-19-2014, 11:26 PM   #9
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Idk about the op but mine sounds like the same problem. Sometimes it does it in neutral and not moving but not unless I've been driving it for awhile and it's warmed up


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Old 12-19-2014, 11:37 PM   #10
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Sounds like a lose motor mount, or trans mount maybe. I would check though. Trans crossmember brace is pretty important.


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Old 12-20-2014, 02:17 PM   #11
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Im thinking its a loose (nut) from the torque converter if its a automatic
It could be the lifters , or even the timing belt could be loose and getting ready to jump time , really could be alot of things - these problems i have came across before with some of my friends mustangs
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Old 12-20-2014, 07:47 PM   #12
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Mine sounds like it could be coming from the rear of the car


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Old 12-21-2014, 07:33 AM   #13
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If the noise is in the rear end or close to it , usually its something to do with the drive shaft being loose with the U-JOINTS, or could be the bearing in the differential - but i would check the drive shaft first before i went with the differential a whole lot cheaper - i would get a custom made drive shaft and balanced from a machine shop , or just get a replacement driveshaft for your make - year model of mustang
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Old 12-24-2014, 08:56 AM   #14
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+1 Speed, Motor Mounts
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Old 12-24-2014, 10:23 AM   #15
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Rubber mounts that come with these cars suck. May or may not be the issue but comparing Energy suspension Urethane vs the stock rubber is lulzy.

That's something else, if you or anyone else here does the poly mounts, you want the Energy ones, not the Prothanes or the AM generics. The Energy mounts are the correct engine height and way higher quality than Prothane or some of the ones I've seen. Same deal for the trans mount. Energy Suspension. AM/LRS/CJP don't sell them for some reason but Jegs and Summit do and they're more reliable companies anyway as good as AM/LRS/CJP usually are.

The bigger pain in the *** on a modular is changing them. Have to jack the motor up as high as it will go off the K, pull the starter to get to the back bolt on the pass side, have a ton of extensions/swivels and I even needed a torch to heat up the rear bolts enough to get out since I was on an angle with the universal. Even had to disassemble the pass. mount after all that and put it in in pieces and use offset dogbones to put it back together since the goddamn stock K gives you almost no room to work...

Car was much smoother afterwards though...
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Old 12-25-2014, 09:45 AM   #16
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You more than likely know this but if you want to check the mounts put the car in gear, foot on the brake and rev the motor, have someone watch the motor to see if it raises up do it both in forward and reverse if it raises up more than an inch more than likely bad mounts. I have BBK shorties and had to remove the passenger side header to get to the back bolt, once the header was off it was easy.
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Old 12-25-2014, 01:37 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Rubber mounts that come with these cars suck. May or may not be the issue but comparing Energy suspension Urethane vs the stock rubber is lulzy.

That's something else, if you or anyone else here does the poly mounts, you want the Energy ones, not the Prothanes or the AM generics. The Energy mounts are the correct engine height and way higher quality than Prothane or some of the ones I've seen. Same deal for the trans mount. Energy Suspension. AM/LRS/CJP don't sell them for some reason but Jegs and Summit do and they're more reliable companies anyway as good as AM/LRS/CJP usually are.

The bigger pain in the *** on a modular is changing them. Have to jack the motor up as high as it will go off the K, pull the starter to get to the back bolt on the pass side, have a ton of extensions/swivels and I even needed a torch to heat up the rear bolts enough to get out since I was on an angle with the universal. Even had to disassemble the pass. mount after all that and put it in in pieces and use offset dogbones to put it back together since the goddamn stock K gives you almost no room to work...

Car was much smoother afterwards though...
So... moral of the story is, upgrade the k member and change the mounts when my starter goes bad? Lol.

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Old 12-25-2014, 09:27 PM   #18
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So... moral of the story is, upgrade the k member and change the mounts when my starter goes bad? Lol.

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Starter takes 5 minutes to remove with the car in the air, not even. I'd do the mounts on an older car regardless. They are ridiculously crap compared to the Energy units.
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Old 12-28-2014, 02:54 PM   #19
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Oh i was under the impression that its a headache. And yea i might do my motor mounts sometime soon. Idk what its supposed to feel like with new ones.

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Old 12-28-2014, 05:49 PM   #20
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They really suck to do with the stock k member. Like... really suck. You better have some ratcheting offset dogbones, a torch, a good ratchet set and a solid 4 letter vocabulary.
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Old 12-28-2014, 11:08 PM   #21
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I replaced my motor mounts when I first bought my car. It was a ***** honestly. At least considering that a motor mount job should be somewhat simple.

So Scotty, I didn't read all replies, the energy motor mounts are that much better? Have any research to back that up? I'm not arguing, my car still has slight vibration.
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Old 12-29-2014, 06:39 AM   #22
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Quote:
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I replaced my motor mounts when I first bought my car. It was a ***** honestly. At least considering that a motor mount job should be somewhat simple.

So Scotty, I didn't read all replies, the energy motor mounts are that much better? Have any research to back that up? I'm not arguing, my car still has slight vibration.
Yes they are, research and personal experience. If you forum search or just google search, the Energy mounts are consistently the only ones that maintain the stock OEM rubber driveline geometry. Prothanes raise the engine up a little, I would not trust the cheap knock offs either and they are prothane knock offs anyway.

The Energy trans mount is better too, I've used multiple trans mounts as well.

Now if your car has a slight vibe, it could be a bunch of things. I did notice every time I've done mounts the car has tightened up even if the rubbers were good. Doing them on the modular is a cluster ****, like I said for the pass mount I had to take the damn thing apart and slide it into place in pieces and then use offset dogbones going real slow (barely any room to turn them much less anything else) to re-assemble.

Getting the motor to sit down in the K with poly mounts can be a trick too. Lots of shaking the motor and I've had to use pry bars on the mount stud of whatever mount is not sitting down like it should but its not too bad once you've done a few sets and know what you are doing. Having a helper is a nice option for this.

I will say that doing them on a pushrod is 1000x easier. More room to work, I did those in like an hour going slow last time I did a set. This modular took me 3+... I did a whole transmission/clutch/flywheel in 3.5 hours over this summer lol.
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