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Old 12-15-2014, 07:05 AM   #36
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The Aviator (specifically the 05) is the best non Terminator engine to put in a modular, Period. The 05 specifically because of the 8 thread final revision C heads. Its also going to be your most expensive.

The Mark VIII is the cheapest 4V swap and yields similar results. Not quite as much horsepower and the bottom end is lacking a bit but that's what 4.30s are for haha. I would delete the IMRCs of the B headed motor and do as much cleaning to the secondary runners as I could while the motor was apart. Or one can always yank the B heads off and find a cheap set of C heads from a Continental for $200 and clean those up and put them on instead. Then find a 99/01/03/04 Cobra/Mach intake and there is a C headed Teksid motor. Lots of options.

It is a 90% drop in and the 2V computer will run the 4V motor as is but a tune is always recommended.

Or just Coyote swap it... lol.

Honestly, if you need the car back up and running now and this is your first engine swap, get the lowest mileage best condition PI motor you can find and just swap them.
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Old 12-15-2014, 09:00 AM   #37
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Old 12-16-2014, 10:46 AM   #38
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I called a junk yard and they said they would trade me a 40k mile 4.6 PI long block for an old broken down truck that I have parked on a logging trail on my grandpa's hunting land. Granted, it ran when I parked it, I bought the truck for a whopping $150 from my cousin who lives in the city. The truck wouldn't pass emissions there so I snagged it. Its a 1991 Chevy 1500 2wd and its freakin nasty. Theres a raccoon living inside it im pretty sure lol. But the engine is good. and the tranny works. It just doesn't run because the wiring is all ****ed up.


Its looking more and more like I am not going to be able to do any special swaps. Even the 5.4 2v is out of my microscopic budget right now. The cheapest 5.4 2v I can find is $800 with 208k miles on it. Plus ive never done an engine swap in a car before, I want the lowest amount of variables possible, so im not going to use a 4v 4.6. I look at it this way though, I will have a really fresh engine. That's better performance than I had before, more confidence, 100% drop in, and I can drive aggressively without a worry. No tune necessary. If I want more power, I can get a bottle of laughing gas lol
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Old 12-16-2014, 09:37 PM   #39
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Hey you gotta do what you gotta do. If you get a good deal, go for it!
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Old 12-16-2014, 10:34 PM   #40
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Hey you gotta do what you gotta do. If you get a good deal, go for it!
Yeah I can get a much better condition engine for half the price and I already have everything I need to drop it in. Plus its my first engine replacement and Im gonna be doing it outside in the cold Wisconsin weather possibly haha. Damn.
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Old 12-17-2014, 01:25 PM   #41
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So guys, do I need any special tools to replace my engine next week? I have a set of 6-25mm sockets, a ratchet, needle nose pliers, regular pliers, channel locks, some box end wrenches, a 1/2 impact, im borrowing a cherry picker, penetrating oil, maybe a propane torch, Schrader valve tool, some metric sockets, mediocre screwdrivers, and that's about it.


Do I need any special pullers for getting the flexplate off of the engine or anything like that?


I have removed, rebuilt, and replaced engines on motorcycles, Rangers, Polaris ATVs, snowmobiles, and jet skis, but never a car. Can I leave the trans mounted the way it is and just unbolt it from the engine? Any tips and tricks on getting this engine out the easiest way? Headers on or off when I pull it? stuff like that. Where should I attach the chains to yank it? How should I organize the electrical stuff so I don't forget whats what?
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Old 12-17-2014, 04:48 PM   #42
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So guys, do I need any special tools to replace my engine next week? I have a set of 6-25mm sockets, a ratchet, needle nose pliers, regular pliers, channel locks, some box end wrenches, a 1/2 impact, im borrowing a cherry picker, penetrating oil, maybe a propane torch, Schrader valve tool, some metric sockets, mediocre screwdrivers, and that's about it.


Do I need any special pullers for getting the flexplate off of the engine or anything like that?


I have removed, rebuilt, and replaced engines on motorcycles, Rangers, Polaris ATVs, snowmobiles, and jet skis, but never a car. Can I leave the trans mounted the way it is and just unbolt it from the engine? Any tips and tricks on getting this engine out the easiest way? Headers on or off when I pull it? stuff like that. Where should I attach the chains to yank it? How should I organize the electrical stuff so I don't forget whats what?
Buy a tech manual it will show you step by step and let you know of you need any special tools. Also check YouTube out and try not to use the torch unless absolutely necessary.
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Old 12-17-2014, 05:54 PM   #43
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Buy a tech manual it will show you step by step and let you know of you need any special tools. Also check YouTube out and try not to use the torch unless absolutely necessary.
Its not an acetaline torch its just a propane one for heating bolts if they are seized up, but yeah I don't use it unless I have to considering there could be gas/oil in places I don't expect.
I cant afford a manual lol. I had to open up my piggy bank just to get a cherry picker lol. I haven't even registered my car yet either. Straight up not a dime in the budget
I bet there is an online file or something that I can print off though. Plus youtube is a godsent for doing stuff like ths.
Damn good thing I work at an autoparts store or Idk how I would afford tools/parts.
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Old 12-17-2014, 07:11 PM   #44
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If you work at a auto parts store read the manual on a break or when nobody is around....
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Old 12-17-2014, 07:15 PM   #45
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They probably have a copy of the repair manual at your local library.
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Old 12-17-2014, 07:20 PM   #46
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A cheap propane torch is good to have. Saved my *** numerous times from motor mounts to driveshaft bolts.

Buy or rent a hoist and a load leveler. Probably a good idea to get yourself a cheap engine stand too for the new motor. Have a helper come over, get everything prepped, remove the hood and pull the motor and trans as a single unit out from the top. Way way way easier than leaving the trans in and makes doing the clutch a million times easier.

Unless you are an auto... then it makes doing an aftermarket converter a million times easier. I know you are on a budget but doing stuff like that now vs later when they let go and you have to rip it all apart again vs while its all apart now will save you $$$ in the long run.
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Old 12-17-2014, 07:39 PM   #47
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A cheap propane torch is good to have. Saved my *** numerous times from motor mounts to driveshaft bolts.

Buy or rent a hoist and a load leveler. Probably a good idea to get yourself a cheap engine stand too for the new motor. Have a helper come over, get everything prepped, remove the hood and pull the motor and trans as a single unit out from the top. Way way way easier than leaving the trans in and makes doing the clutch a million times easier.

Unless you are an auto... then it makes doing an aftermarket converter a million times easier. I know you are on a budget but doing stuff like that now vs later when they let go and you have to rip it all apart again vs while its all apart now will save you $$$ in the long run.
Thanks for the tip about removing the trans with the engine. Freeing the trans from the trans mounts is actually probably easier than freeing it from the engine in the first place. I have a manual btw.
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Old 12-17-2014, 07:53 PM   #48
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Removing as one piece makes it alot easier overall, just like Scotty said. I've got Lt's, and thats how I do it. Although I dropped the k member lol
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Old 12-17-2014, 07:58 PM   #49
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Removing as one piece makes it alot easier overall, just like Scotty said. I've got Lt's, and thats how I do it. Although I dropped the k member lol
Oh sweet I wish I had access to a lift so I could do that. but yeah, I guess im gonna pull it all at once. Trans cant be too hard to unbolt, theres only a shift linkage, driveshaft, and the mounts right?
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Old 12-17-2014, 09:18 PM   #50
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And some plugs to disconnect. Make sure you also get something to plug up the tail shaft, or you'll get tranny fluid all over.
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Old 12-17-2014, 09:22 PM   #51
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Oh sweet I wish I had access to a lift so I could do that. but yeah, I guess im gonna pull it all at once. Trans cant be too hard to unbolt, theres only a shift linkage, driveshaft, and the mounts right?
There is no linkage, this is a 04-down car, they are toploaders. Remove the shifter, unplug the speedo sensor and remove the reverse light plug and that's really it. The crossmember just unbolts. Doing a trans in a Mustang is one of the easiest trans jobs ever. My last one with a lift was 3.5 hours from roll into the bay till roll out of the bay and that's with the stupid integrated bell T45/3650. Fastest ever was just a tick over 2 hours flat doing a fox. 75lb trans and a separate bellhousing pretty much makes actually removing the trans easier than the mid pipe once everything else is out.
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Old 12-17-2014, 11:32 PM   #52
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sweet sounds like it will be a good car to learn on. thanks for input guys it all helps
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Old 12-18-2014, 06:15 AM   #53
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Yea, so what motor did u end up getting anyway? Anyhow goodluck its really not that hard to do actually pretty easy to tell u the truth especially taking it out as one whole peice cuz the top bellhousing bolts can be a pain and so can the starter bolt thats hidden but u dont have to worry about it taking it out together


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Old 12-18-2014, 07:54 AM   #54
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I think he's going with a replacement PI. If it was me I'd spend a little more and just get the B headed Mark motor but its not me and I'm also a lot more comfortable working on these things.
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Old 12-18-2014, 11:27 AM   #55
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In his situation I think he's doing the best thing.
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Old 12-18-2014, 02:23 PM   #56
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In his situation I think he's doing the best thing.
Agreed, if I get another SN95 it's going to be a pushrod anyway myself lol. 94/95 Cobra motor with a cam swap is going to pull as hard as a NA 4V but actually have a set of nuts down low and is silly easy to work on.
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Old 12-18-2014, 04:39 PM   #57
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THe junkyard guy is delivering the 4.6 PI engine to me on Monday. I also have an engine hoist reserved to rent from the hardware store. I cant afford to really do any swaps or anything because this is my only mode of transportation, I am in college still, and I already had to borrow money to buy this car last week from my grandpa.


So far it looks like I have to unplug the **** on the left side of the engine, disconnect the ground wire under the car, disconnect the plugs and power wire on the right side of the engine, remove the heater hoses, bleed fuel pressure, disconnect fuel lines, disconnect rad hoses, remove coolant reservoir, pull the belt off, remove ac compressor, power steering pump, pull the vaccum lines
(and mark them), remove O2 sensors, take the exhaust downpipe off, unbolt the motor mounts, take the shifter out, take the driveshaft off, unbolt trans from crossmember, pull the engine out, dress the new one, and repeat in backwards/opposite order. How long do you guys think that will take me realistically? Running into your typical **** like seized bolts considered.
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Old 12-18-2014, 07:56 PM   #58
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If its your first time and the car is an unknown quantity I'd say a weekend day to pull it. Another weekend day to swap everything over and then the next weekend to drop it back in and get it running.

I strongly strongly STRONGLY suggest doing the clutch and flywheel at this time. Beg/borrow/whatever you have to do. Now is prime time to do it.
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Old 12-18-2014, 09:39 PM   #59
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Okay yeah that doesn't sound too bad. Im gonna start stripping everything sunday night, then hook the hoist up to it Monday at 1:30pm. Hopefully the new engine is delivered by that night so I can dress it. I have to have it done by new years, because I am either going on a 5 hour road trip up to see my friends, Or I am going to new years at my girlfriends house. My girlfriends uncle has a 05 v6 with a manual. I think I might have to go for a drive with him lol.
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Old 12-18-2014, 09:42 PM   #60
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I think I might put a new throw out bearing in though. It seems like those are almost a wear item on these t-45s. Also, I discovered that my car came off the dealer lot as an automatic. The first owner swapped a t-45 in. My dashboard even has a little "O/D off" light haha. And the title says it was an automatic.
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Old 12-18-2014, 11:26 PM   #61
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The throwout is the same from foxes to new edges. Its not the trans its driving habits and people using ****ty parts. The only tob you should use is an OEM one from Ford. Note I said OEM, not Ford Racing. They are different and the OEMS are better.

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Old 12-19-2014, 12:11 AM   #62
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yeah OEM for sure on bearings. it was that way with motocross too most of the time. but anything was better than the pulverized ones you had in it lol. My throwout bearing is doing really well, but I still think I should replace it. I would be so pissed if I went through all that and had to take it back apart 4 months later for something so basic.


If im gonna tear something apart like that with the intent to rebuild it, it better be a complete catastrophe. I don't want to tear it apart for a small bearing or something dumb like that.
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Old 12-19-2014, 07:20 AM   #63
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Agreed, if I get another SN95 it's going to be a pushrod anyway myself lol. 94/95 Cobra motor with a cam swap is going to pull as hard as a NA 4V but actually have a set of nuts down low and is silly easy to work on.
Eh. You want balls down low I'd stay away from a 302. I've never understood people who praised the torque they made. Guess they were never chevy guys before going ford lol.
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Old 12-19-2014, 09:08 AM   #64
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Eh. You want balls down low I'd stay away from a 302. I've never understood people who praised the torque they made. Guess they were never chevy guys before going ford lol.
Having gone from a bolt on 95 Cobra to a bolt on 98 PI 2V I can tell you for a fact that the 302 makes way more low end than the modulars do. Now... compared to a 350 smallblock Chevy... no. But its comparable as far as the manners of the engine.

And with all that said and all that **** I've talked, I found a 99GT with a blown motor that is supposedly mint and garage kept for $1k I might go look at. And if I did do that I would be out on the hunt for a Mark VIII to drop in honestly. I've got like 2 or 3 "project" cars I'm kicking around. I just want a Mustang back in the garage lol.
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Old 12-19-2014, 09:23 AM   #65
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Having gone from a bolt on 95 Cobra to a bolt on 98 PI 2V I can tell you for a fact that the 302 makes way more low end than the modulars do. Now... compared to a 350 smallblock Chevy... no. But its comparable as far as the manners of the engine.

And with all that said and all that **** I've talked, I found a 99GT with a blown motor that is supposedly mint and garage kept for $1k I might go look at. And if I did do that I would be out on the hunt for a Mark VIII to drop in honestly. I've got like 2 or 3 "project" cars I'm kicking around. I just want a Mustang back in the garage lol.
Buy it. Lol
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Old 12-19-2014, 01:27 PM   #66
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Buy it. Lol

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Old 12-21-2014, 07:48 AM   #67
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If you can afford it, I would for sure go with a 4v mustang motor, I live in Alabama and the cheapest 4v motor I seen was a mach1 for $2500 lol cheap huh lol

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Old 12-26-2014, 08:44 PM   #68
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I'm in NC and just pulled a complete/running 4V from a 97 Mark VIII today for $280 out the door from a local pick-n-pull. Took me 4-5 hours and would have only cost me $240 if I could have got the torque converter and P/S pump off. I could have but dog tired and just paid the man. Going to put this in my 96 GT vert!
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Old 12-27-2014, 12:41 AM   #69
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I'm in NC and just pulled a complete/running 4V from a 97 Mark VIII today for $280 out the door from a local pick-n-pull. Took me 4-5 hours and would have only cost me $240 if I could have got the torque converter and P/S pump off. I could have but dog tired and just paid the man. Going to put this in my 96 GT vert!
That's about what you can get them for if you look. That's a damn good swap, the B headed motors are really underrated. Delete the IMRCs and get a custom tune with the tuner aware that they are deleted. Stick 4.10s or (better) 4.30s in there if you can handle the RPM on the highway and let her rip. Cast crank is good for 7k RPM, don't let anyone tell you different. Over 7k... that's when it gets dicey.
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Old 12-27-2014, 01:21 AM   #70
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Having gone from a bolt on 95 Cobra to a bolt on 98 PI 2V I can tell you for a fact that the 302 makes way more low end than the modulars do. Now... compared to a 350 smallblock Chevy... no. But its comparable as far as the manners of the engine.

And with all that said and all that **** I've talked, I found a 99GT with a blown motor that is supposedly mint and garage kept for $1k I might go look at. And if I did do that I would be out on the hunt for a Mark VIII to drop in honestly. I've got like 2 or 3 "project" cars I'm kicking around. I just want a Mustang back in the garage lol.

How does a "supposed" garage queen blow an engine?


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