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Old 12-13-2014, 09:34 AM   #1
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What type of oil and how many qts?

What type of oil should I put in my 04 mustang gt I have 150k miles on it? I also live in Houston,Tx


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Old 12-13-2014, 11:36 AM   #2
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Any brand 5w20 6 qts

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Old 12-13-2014, 12:17 PM   #3
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For the 1999 mustang GT, the parts catalogue at the parts store I work at says 5 quarts of 5w-20. I just looked yesterday.


So that means get 5w-40.
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Old 12-13-2014, 12:43 PM   #4
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If there are no leaks, use synthetic oil, your 5W-20.
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Old 12-13-2014, 02:10 PM   #5
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5w-20 is what they recommend when you buy the car brand new. The engines loosen up after getting their *** beat for 150k. I don't think its out of line run 5w-40 synthetic now but as long as you have oil in your engine its going to be fine.
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Old 12-13-2014, 02:21 PM   #6
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1999-2000 was recommended 5w30. 01-04 was changed to 5w20. Scotty will pitch in saying ford changed for all modulars to 5w20. If you have no leaks you will be fine with synthetic 5w20.

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Old 12-13-2014, 02:23 PM   #7
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1999-2000 was recommended 5w30. 01-04 was changed to 5w20. Scotty will pitch in saying ford changed for all modulars to 5w20. If you have no leaks you will be fine with synthetic 5w20.

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And if I do have leaks what should i use?


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Old 12-13-2014, 02:31 PM   #8
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Panther runs his car with no oil you might not want to listen to him lol

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Old 12-13-2014, 02:43 PM   #9
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Get the leak fix. Until then use conventional oil.

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Old 12-13-2014, 02:46 PM   #10
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5w-20 is what they recommend when you buy the car brand new. The engines loosen up after getting their *** beat for 150k. I don't think its out of line run 5w-40 synthetic now but as long as you have oil in your engine its going to be fine.
Ford raised the "full" level on the dipstick and started putting 6 quarts in the the engines around 2000... I think. That's all they changed, just the dipstick, so any of the modulars are capable of holding six quarts in the crankcase.
They did this for the very reason that you recently encountered Panther... To avoid people from inadvertently running the engine low on oil.
Anyone with an older "5 quart car" can upgrade to a six quart capacity by simply exchanging the dipstick for one from a later model with the higher "full" level mark.

I recommend what Ford recommends as far as oil weights go. No matter how many miles are on the engine.
5w20 or 5w30.

And if your engine leaks oil OP... Fix the leaks!
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Old 12-13-2014, 03:00 PM   #11
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5w-20 is what they recommend when you buy the car brand new. The engines loosen up after getting their *** beat for 150k. I don't think its out of line run 5w-40 synthetic now but as long as you have oil in your engine its going to be fine.
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Old 12-13-2014, 07:57 PM   #12
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My 4V is running perfect on 5W-30, 7 quarts, Mobil1. Previous owner used the same. So far, great stuff raising the red line!
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Old 12-15-2014, 06:37 AM   #13
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Ive read numerous forums of people praising and hating 5w20 in a 4.6. I decided to stick with 5w30 myself, and im using Motorcraft oil. its a synthetic blend. also mines a daily driver, it barely ever sees the redline. It should stil handle a redlining engine just fine, but if I did, i would probably go with Mobil1 or Amsoil. Royal Purple should be just as good too. Ford calls for 5w20 because of CAFE and overall fuel economy of an entire fleet of vehicles. It just feels too much like sacrificing engine protection for a few economy numbers. I didnt notice any change in gas mileage per tank on the same road trip.
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Old 12-15-2014, 07:40 AM   #14
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5w-20 is what the owner's manual calls for. That is purely for CAFE reasons. They all use 5w-30 overseas in the same motor. I'd do 6 quarts of 5w-20 or 5w-30 motorcraft and a WIX (napa gold) filter. If you don't have a Napa near you for whatever reason, use a Motorcraft filter. Do NOT use a Fram filter, they are horrible filters.

Buy the oil at wal mart, its the cheapest place by far with 5 quart jugs at $17.99 and then your extra quart should be between $2.50 and $4.00 depending. You can get a Motorcraft filter there too for like $3 if you don't feel like making two stops to get the filter at Napa.

Now, if you are having issues with oil getting past your seals and are burning oil in the motor, I'd just jump right up to Shell Rotella T6 15w-40 and just make sure you let it warm up well before you take off.
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Old 12-15-2014, 11:04 AM   #15
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5w20 is what I usually used. 5qts also, and it would always match right on the dipstick. Too much oil without a pan that is meant for it will cause it to run kind of weird.

I'm trying 5w30 next since it'll probably help with the amount of Autocrossing I'm going to do this year.


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Old 12-15-2014, 11:54 AM   #16
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So if you are more aggressive on the car, You should use 5w-30 rather than 5w-20?


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Old 12-15-2014, 11:57 AM   #17
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So if you are more aggressive on the car, You should use 5w-30 rather than 5w-20?


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It depends how aggressive. If its lots of redlining but you are just going straight up in the gears it isn't as critical. For something like a road race car that is going to be at 4500+ for 20 minutes straight for multiple sessions in the day it'll be a good idea to have a thicker oil.
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Old 12-15-2014, 12:01 PM   #18
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Yes. My car actually drips some oil if it is filled to the full line on the dipstick.
Also, the original owner of my car was a woman so it had a lifetime of "Quicky" oil changes. When I purchased the car, it had an oil change sticker on the windshield that said that they had filled it full of 10w30...It probably spent most of it's 125k miles with that oil.
I use what it says on the cap.
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Old 12-15-2014, 12:08 PM   #19
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10w30 is just fine for it. especially if you live in a warmer climate. I noticed places in central florida tend to use 10w30 as a go to weight for most vehicles that go in for a the cheapest oil change option.
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Old 12-15-2014, 12:15 PM   #20
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10w30 is just fine for it. especially if you live in a warmer climate. I noticed places in central florida tend to use 10w30 as a go to weight for most vehicles that go in for a the cheapest oil change option.
I looked into opening an oil change shop a while back. 10w30 is typically the cheapest oil that you can buy in bulk. That's why most shops use it... Many, even if you request another weight, will use 10w30.
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Old 12-15-2014, 03:18 PM   #21
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It depends how aggressive. If its lots of redlining but you are just going straight up in the gears it isn't as critical. For something like a road race car that is going to be at 4500+ for 20 minutes straight for multiple sessions in the day it'll be a good idea to have a thicker oil.
Yep, IIRC the Boss uses 15w-40 and a lot of guys run that weight in high performance motors regardless of what it calls for. Reading on bobistheoilguy a lot of people like the Rotella because of the extra zinc but I don't pretend to know enough about that.

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I looked into opening an oil change shop a while back. 10w30 is typically the cheapest oil that you can buy in bulk. That's why most shops use it... Many, even if you request another weight, will use 10w30.
Yep, I had a car that the previous owner was super proud of how much maintenance he had done and the stacks upon stacks of receipts for things like oil changes etc... The guy had been paying $90 every 3,000 miles for "bulk oil/filter" "fluid check", "brake pad check" and "tire pressure check". Wonder if they did the blinker fluid too... The oil weight was 10w-30 btw even though it called for 5w-20.
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Old 12-15-2014, 06:31 PM   #22
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Panther runs his car with no oil you might not want to listen to him lol

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Haha yeah because all my 5w-20 leaked out and/or got burned up! I put some 5w-40 in it and it quieted the motor right down and hasn't dropped oil level since. Still going to put a 5.4 in my car though.
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Old 12-15-2014, 07:35 PM   #23
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Yep, IIRC the Boss uses 15w-40 and a lot of guys run that weight in high performance motors regardless of what it calls for. Reading on bobistheoilguy a lot of people like the Rotella because of the extra zinc but I don't pretend to know enough about that.



Yep, I had a car that the previous owner was super proud of how much maintenance he had done and the stacks upon stacks of receipts for things like oil changes etc... The guy had been paying $90 every 3,000 miles for "bulk oil/filter" "fluid check", "brake pad check" and "tire pressure check". Wonder if they did the blinker fluid too... The oil weight was 10w-30 btw even though it called for 5w-20.

But it probably looked better to most buyers than if he would have said he did all the oil changes himself lmao.


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Old 12-15-2014, 08:10 PM   #24
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I know for a fact you can run the engine with only 2 quarts in it for hundreds of miles before it starts to sound funny.
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Old 12-15-2014, 08:13 PM   #25
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I know for a fact you can run the engine with only 2 quarts in it for hundreds of miles before it starts to sound funny.
You CAN... I guess lol. Cams will be toast tho.
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Old 12-15-2014, 08:25 PM   #26
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You CAN... I guess lol. Cams will be toast tho.
It all works out though because it means your valves are less likely to hit your piston. They would normally do that due to your cam chain tensioner being ground off. plus it gives you less horsepower which = more safetyness! your mom will sleep better at night.

on top of that, you lose tons of compression, which means you don't have to run premium. you just save money all across the board.
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Old 12-15-2014, 08:43 PM   #27
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You don't have to run premium period. Stock tune=87 or you are just wasting money.
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Old 12-16-2014, 11:30 AM   #28
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You don't have to run premium period. Stock tune=87 or you are just wasting money.
Yeah I know. especially when its cold out. You're not going to detonate on 87 with stock compression and normal driving conditions. If you are going to go to a 20 minute long autox race when its 105 degrees out, you maaaaybe will.

ANyways, back to oils. The Parts Catalogue that we use at the parts store recommends 5w-20 across the board. But it differs on quantity based on year. 99-01 they recommend 5 quarts. 02 they switch to 6 quarts. I have no clue why. They use the same oil pan and filter. Does anybody know why they might have switched? I feel like I could dump 6 quarts in my 99 and have no issues since its identical to a 2002 engine that takes 6 quarts.
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Old 12-16-2014, 12:17 PM   #29
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I just looked in my owners manual, for my 01, and it says 5 quarts. It takes closer to six to fill it to the full line though. The repair manual says that 97 and up takes 6 quarts.
All of the 4.6's can handle 6 qts apparently. All that Ford changed, when they increased the capacity, is the lines on the dipstick.
They probably,officially, changed the capacity because the lighter weight oil that they recommend gets used up by the engine slightly faster than the 30 weight.
Since oil filters can be different sizes and capacities, depending on brand, the recommended capacities are approximate and the oil level should be topped off accordingly.
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Old 12-16-2014, 12:47 PM   #30
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I just looked in my owners manual, for my 01, and it says 5 quarts. It takes closer to six to fill it to the full line though. The repair manual says that 97 and up takes 6 quarts.
All of the 4.6's can handle 6 qts apparently. All that Ford changed, when they increased the capacity, is the lines on the dipstick.
They probably,officially, changed the capacity because the lighter weight oil that they recommend gets used up by the engine slightly faster than the 30 weight.
Since oil filters can be different sizes and capacities, depending on brand, the recommended capacities are approximate and the oil level should be topped off accordingly.
Yeah that's what I thought. I figured the dip stick is all they changed on it. Glad to see im not crazy lol
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Old 12-16-2014, 01:02 PM   #31
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Yeah I know. especially when its cold out. You're not going to detonate on 87 with stock compression and normal driving conditions. If you are going to go to a 20 minute long autox race when its 105 degrees out, you maaaaybe.

You won't detonate 87 on a stock tune or stock compression. It simply won't happen, ever, unless you got bad gas. Especially since these cars already have a fairly low compression.


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Old 12-16-2014, 01:52 PM   #32
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You won't detonate 87 on a stock tune or stock compression. It simply won't happen, ever, unless you got bad gas. Especially since these cars already have a fairly low compression.


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Yeah I am not worried about detonation at all. Its pretty hard to find a car straight from factory that runs so close to the edge of detonation that 4 octane makes any difference. The only reason for buying 91 is to try and avoid ethanol in my opinion.
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Old 12-16-2014, 02:42 PM   #33
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They can all take 7+ quarts actually. The 4.6L pans are huge. Go to wal mart, get a 5 quart jug of motorcraft or super tech for $17.99 plus an extra quart for $2.50, do your oil drain/filter change and then dump it all in and call it good.

People stress way too damn much about oil IMO. Know the correct quantity, go to wal mart for oil, $21 to get 6 quarts of motorcraft/super tech or $30 for 6 quarts of M1. On the way home stop by a Napa and get a WIX filter. Never have issues with oil ever.
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Old 12-16-2014, 05:43 PM   #34
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I use regular ole Havoline 10w-30. At the roughly 4,500 mile mark I've used about 3/4 of a quart and it's time to change the oil/filter.


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Old 12-16-2014, 05:51 PM   #35
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Get the leak fix. Until then use conventional oil.

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