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Old 12-23-2014, 08:09 PM   #1
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FML. Found out all the issues

Ok so finally found out all my issues with my car. Took it to a shop. The idle issue was from the torque converter. Needs a rear main. Front crank seal. Oil pan gasket leaking. Engine mounts shot. Ands tranny mounts shot. Right front lower control arm bent. Lot of crap to fix. Might just sell it and get rid of it. Have to find out how mic it will cost for all of it to do.


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Old 12-23-2014, 09:40 PM   #2
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A lot of this can be fixed for really cheap if you do a lot of your own work and get stuff from either rock auto or a junk yard


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Old 12-24-2014, 01:55 AM   #3
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That's what I was thinking. I priced it out and it's looking like closes to $200 in parts. I have a friend that might be able to do the work for $300. With my help.


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---------- Post added at 12:55 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:55 AM ----------

Is there another name for a rear main seal. Can't find the part


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Old 12-24-2014, 08:21 AM   #4
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Try rear crankshaft seal
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Old 12-24-2014, 10:48 AM   #5
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Try rear crankshaft seal
That's the rear main...

A arms you can get used or just upgrade to tubular. Converter, I'd go with a performance one if you can, commented in another thread on that, Freakshow has pretty good prices and they're really good converters. Front and rear main, well the rear main will be right there when the converter is being done so that's not much extra labor, front main can be done whenever along with the oil pan seal. Engine and trans mounts should be upgraded anyway, the stock ones suck ***.

In all honesty, everything that is wrong besides the oil seals is stuff that you should replace anyway if you are into making the car a better performer, even if its all still functional. It does cost $$$ but if you get another stang, that's just stuff you'll want to replace eventually anyway. At least this car is a known quantity right?
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Old 12-24-2014, 10:55 AM   #6
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Thanks Scotty. How dose te tube a arms work. I saw pics and was like wow. But confused on how they would hook up


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Old 12-24-2014, 12:59 PM   #7
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That's the rear main...
I know, some stores just list it as a rear crankshaft seal instead of rear main seal
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Old 12-24-2014, 01:37 PM   #8
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Ok great. I will prob get it next month


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Old 12-24-2014, 01:55 PM   #9
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It may seem like a lot but you could fix all of that with basic hand tools, a case of beer, and the good part of a weekend set aside.
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Old 12-24-2014, 02:34 PM   #10
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I'm going to try and do it in one day at the shop on base. They have lifts and all the tools I need.


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Old 12-24-2014, 03:58 PM   #11
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Tubular A arms are just tubes in a V shape the connect from your K member that holds the engine up, to the steering knuckle. This is also a good chance to change out old worn ball joints and shed a few pounds up front swapping over to a tubular style A arm instead of the cheap stamped metal stock ones our cars come with.Click image for larger version

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Old 12-25-2014, 08:11 AM   #12
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With regards to the tubular a arms, I know most A arms require a TubularKMember and coil over suspension


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Old 12-25-2014, 08:48 AM   #13
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With regards to the tubular a arms, I know most A arms require a TubularKMember and coil over suspension


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Wrong most do not need a tubular Kmember and most you can get spring perches ordered with them to run springs still


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Old 12-25-2014, 11:28 AM   #14
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Yep, lots of them have the option for perches and bolt right in.
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Old 12-26-2014, 09:19 PM   #15
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I got confused with American muscle. They had ones that looked like tubes. But not v shape. Unless it didn't show it at a different angle


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Old 12-26-2014, 11:06 PM   #16
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Quote:
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I got confused with American muscle. They had ones that looked like tubes. But not v shape. Unless it didn't show it at a different angle


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They have to look like this
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Or even this
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If your looking control arms that look like this

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from what your describing then these are for the rear


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Old 12-27-2014, 02:28 AM   #17
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Ohh ok. Got confused. But I don't remember seeing the fronts on that site either. But I figured if I need to change the front. At least do performance. Gona try and get a
$500 AER loan from the military to buy the parts the. Install them on a weekend. Transmission will be the pain. Thanks for the info.


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Old 12-27-2014, 04:29 PM   #18
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They have them on the site but not sure the ones they sell have the perch for springs you'll have to look for different ones on another site. But AM has a few tubular A-arms on there site it's at the bottom of the control arms section.


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Old 12-28-2014, 07:08 PM   #19
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Just get the control arm from a you pull it yard. The rest is fairly cheap too.

Replacing motor mounts is the toughest job on your problems list, and honestly they aren't that bad. Fix that ****.

Forgot about torque converter. That will be the biggest pain. I'm not sure how this was affecting your idle though...
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Old 01-02-2015, 11:38 AM   #20
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That's what the dealer said.


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Old 01-02-2015, 11:39 AM   #21
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So I spoke to the freakshow today. They told me that the tranny might also be bad. That the torque converter prob went bad due to a bad transmission. What u guys think.


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Old 01-02-2015, 01:12 PM   #22
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I'm going to try and do it in one day at the shop on base. They have lifts and all the tools I need.


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Really? They have shops you can bring your car in and work on it there?

Brb, going to go enlist right now
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Old 01-02-2015, 01:14 PM   #23
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So I spoke to the freakshow today. They told me that the tranny might also be bad. That the torque converter prob went bad due to a bad transmission. What u guys think.


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Old 01-02-2015, 01:24 PM   #24
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Just get the control arm from a you pull it yard. The rest is fairly cheap too.

Replacing motor mounts is the toughest job on your problems list, and honestly they aren't that bad. Fix that ****.

Forgot about torque converter. That will be the biggest pain. I'm not sure how this was affecting your idle though...
It could have been engaging prematurely or the bearing was grabbing too much
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Old 01-02-2015, 03:27 PM   #25
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Yea I was pricing a tranny. I think I'm going to get rid of it. $500 I can do. But not a grand or more. With me leaving for Korea next year and the car sitting for 3 years. It not worth it. Just save up and get a newer model gt.


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Old 01-02-2015, 03:52 PM   #26
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Yeah, unless you can find a good deal on a good used transmission, and since you'll be gone, it may be best to sell it and get another one later.
The manual transmission swap is another option but it is still a lot of time and money for something that is going to sit for several years.
I've had some decent luck finding parts on CL. Maybe there's a wrecked car nearby with a verifiable fresh transmission. Or maybe a five speed that you can scavenge parts for the swap.

Decisions, decisions...
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Old 01-03-2015, 07:03 AM   #27
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my car used to be an automatic. Not anymore
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Old 01-03-2015, 11:13 AM   #28
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When life gives you a lemon 4r70w, make Tremenaide 45 manual.
**** that find a low mileage 4r75w out of a 2004 and get a good converter and be faster with a way stronger trans.
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Old 01-03-2015, 11:27 AM   #29
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Really? They have shops you can bring your car in and work on it there?

Brb, going to go enlist right now

Most bases have really decent automotive hobby shops that you can use.


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Old 01-03-2015, 02:39 PM   #30
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**** that find a low mileage 4r75w out of a 2004 and get a good converter and be faster with a way stronger trans.
the 4r75w is faster? I know for a fact that the 4r70w saps so much power from mustangs drive train that they are almost an entire second slower up to 60 mph. Either way though, I love grabbing gears. Autos get me mad when they do their unpredictable and erratic gear changes. I like telling the car what were going to be doing. Not vice versa
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Old 01-03-2015, 06:49 PM   #31
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The only thing is a gamble is the tranny may be good. But may not be. The guy at freakshow said it's a possibility. The dealer said it was a bad converter. Not transmission. But of course there could be that factor that the tranny damaged the converter. I may get
Lucky and changer the converter only and fixes the prob. Cheaper to do. My biggest prob is my location to try and sell. Small town and too far from la. Not too many people interested in driving 150 miles just to look. Lol. FML


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Old 01-03-2015, 07:09 PM   #32
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the 4r75w is faster? I know for a fact that the 4r70w saps so much power from mustangs drive train that they are almost an entire second slower up to 60 mph. Either way though, I love grabbing gears. Autos get me mad when they do their unpredictable and erratic gear changes. I like telling the car what were going to be doing. Not vice versa
Same car as yours but with an auto w/jmod/converter/tune is going to push your butthole in. In the 1/4 at least.
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Old 01-06-2015, 12:41 AM   #33
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So I spoke to a friend that used to build mustangs. And I told him my tranny never had a service. And we came up with a theory. If the oil never been changed it prob clogged te torque converter seizing it causing it to stall. Makes
Sense. So I'm going to try out the tourqe converter. If it works. I will have my parents keep it running while I'm in Korea. Maybe one day I give it to my son. Yay. Lolo


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Old 01-07-2015, 10:33 PM   #34
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Same car as yours but with an auto w/jmod/converter/tune is going to push your butthole in. In the 1/4 at least.
I really doubt that considering 0-60 is faster by a whole second, and that's when the most gear shifting is going on. the fast gear changes are the autos advantage
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Old 01-08-2015, 03:21 PM   #35
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I really doubt that considering 0-60 is faster by a whole second, and that's when the most gear shifting is going on. the fast gear changes are the autos advantage
Race a well put together bolt on auto 2v and find out then. It should be doing mid 12s. Not sure why you are going by stock and 0- 60 times. Both of which mean nothing.
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